purlJam

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# Little Rosebud Dress
### Top-Down Sleeveless Baby Dress with Mock Cable Rib Bodice
**Size:** 6–9 Months | **Construction:** Top-Down, Seamless, In the Round

---

## Description

This sweet sleeveless dress is worked from the neck down in one piece, so there's minimal seaming. The fitted bodice features a mock cable rib stitch that creates the look of twisted cables without a cable needle — perfect for confident beginners. The yoke is shaped with simple raglan increases, and the skirt flows into a full A-line silhouette. A simple garter stitch hem and armhole edging give a neat, polished finish.

---

## Finished Measurements

| Measurement | Finished Size |
|---|---|
| Chest Circumference | ~14 in (35.5 cm) |
| Total Length (shoulder to hem) | ~17 in (43 cm) |
| Yoke Depth | ~3.5 in (9 cm) |
| Skirt Length (underarm to hem) | ~12.5 in (32 cm) |
| Neck Opening | ~9.75 in (24.5 cm) |

> **Note on sizing:** Baby dress sizing includes ease for a comfortable fit over a onesie or bodysuit. Chest circumference reflects a snug but comfortable fit for a 6–9 month baby with an approximate chest measurement of 17 in (43 cm). The A-line skirt flares generously to ~20.5 in (52 cm) at the hem.

---

## Materials

- **Yarn:** Katia Espiga, 55% Cotton / 45% Acrylic, worsted weight
  - Approximately **250–300 yards (230–275 m)** in main color (MC)
  - Optional: small amount of contrasting color (CC) for hem or neck edging (approx. 20 yards)
  - *Sample shown in soft pink (MC)*
- **Needles:**
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16-in (40 cm) circular needle *(for yoke and upper bodice)*
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm, 24-in (60 cm) or longer circular needle *(for skirt)*
  - US 6 / 4.0 mm, 16-in circular needle *(for neck edging — optional, for tighter edge)*
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers: 5 (4 raglan markers + 1 beginning-of-round marker, all different colors or use locking markers)
  - 2 stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeve stitches)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors
  - Optional: 3–5 small buttons (⅜ in / 10 mm) for optional back neck opening

---

## Gauge

**28 stitches × 36 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, blocked**

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical for fit.** Knit a swatch at least 5 in × 5 in, wash and block it as you would the finished garment, then measure. Katia Espiga can relax slightly after washing. Adjust needle size if needed — go up a needle size if your swatch is too small (too many stitches per inch), go down if too large.

*Gauge in mock cable rib may be slightly tighter. The rib is used for the bodice where a snug, structured fabric is desirable.*

---

## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BOR | Beginning of round |
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| rm | Remove marker |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| m1R | Make 1 right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| m1L | Make 1 left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| rnd(s) | Round(s) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| rep | Repeat |
| MC | Main color |
| CC | Contrasting color (optional) |
| RT | Right Twist (mock cable, see Pattern Notes) |
| tbl | Through the back loop |
| WS | Wrong side |
| RS | Right side |

---

## Pattern Notes

### Mock Cable Rib Stitch (worked in the round)
The mock cable rib creates the appearance of a twisted rope cable using a simple two-stitch right twist on a rib background. **No cable needle is required.**

**Right Twist (RT):** Skip the first stitch on the left needle, knit into the front of the second stitch (do not drop it), then knit the first stitch, then drop both stitches from the left needle together. *(2 stitches used, 2 stitches made.)*

**Mock Cable Rib Pattern** (worked over a multiple of 4 stitches):
- **All Rounds:** *RT, p2; rep from * to end of round.

This creates a 4-stitch repeat: 2-stitch right twist + 2 purl stitches.

> **Beginner Tip:** Practice the RT on a small swatch before starting. If the RT feels too tight, try loosening your tension slightly when working the second stitch. Some knitters find it easier to slightly stretch the left needle forward before skipping the first stitch.

### Construction Notes
- The dress is worked **top-down, in the round** on circular needles throughout.
- The yoke is shaped with **raglan increases** at 4 points, creating front, back, and two sleeve sections.
- Sleeve stitches are placed on hold at the underarm and **not worked** — this is a sleeveless design.
- The mock cable rib is worked throughout the yoke and upper bodice.
- The skirt transitions to **stockinette stitch** and is shaped with gradual increases to create the A-line flare.
- At the beginner level, all increases in the yoke are clearly placed at marked raglan lines and are easy to track.

### Reading the Pattern
- Instructions inside *[ ]* indicate stitches to repeat.
- Stitch counts at the end of a round are shown in parentheses: *(XX sts)*
- Raglan increase rounds always add **8 stitches total** (m1L + m1R at each of 4 raglan points = 8 increases per increase round).

---

## Instructions

### SECTION 1: Neck Edging and Cast On

Using US 6 / 4.0 mm circular needle (or US 7 if you prefer a looser neck), CO **68 stitches** using the long-tail cast-on method.

> **Why 68 stitches?** At our gauge of 7 sts per inch, 68 stitches = approximately 9.75 in (24.5 cm) neck circumference — a comfortable opening for a baby's head.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a unique BOR marker.

**Neck Edging (Garter Stitch, 4 rounds):**

*In the round, garter stitch alternates knit and purl rounds.*

- **Round 1:** Knit all stitches. *(68 sts)*
- **Round 2:** Purl all stitches. *(68 sts)*
- **Round 3:** Knit all stitches. *(68 sts)*
- **Round 4:** Purl all stitches. *(68 sts)*

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needle (16-in circular).

---

### SECTION 2: Set Up Raglan Markers and Mock Cable Rib

On the next round, you will place 4 raglan markers to divide your stitches into sections:
- **Back:** 22 stitches
- **Right Sleeve:** 10 stitches
- **Front:** 22 stitches
- **Left Sleeve:** 10 stitches
- **4 single knit raglan "spine" stitches** (1 stitch at each of the 4 marker positions)

> **Total check:** 22 + 1 + 10 + 1 + 22 + 1 + 10 + 1 = 68 stitches ✅

**Set-Up Round:**
- K1 (raglan spine st), pm (raglan marker A), k22 (back), pm (raglan marker B), k1 (raglan spine st), pm (raglan marker C), k10 (right sleeve), pm (raglan marker D), k1 (raglan spine st), sm BOR marker, k1 (raglan spine st — this is the first st of front), k21 (remaining front sts).

> Wait — let's set this up more clearly for a beginner:

**REVISED Set-Up Round** *(read carefully)*:

Starting at BOR (which sits at the **left front shoulder**):

1. K1 — *this is raglan spine stitch #1 (left front/back raglan)*
2. pm with Marker A (raglan marker — left shoulder)
3. K22 — *back stitches*
4. pm with Marker B (raglan marker — right shoulder)
5. K1 — *raglan spine stitch #2*
6. pm with Marker C (raglan marker — right sleeve)
7. K10 — *right sleeve stitches*
8. pm with Marker D (raglan marker — right underarm)
9. K1 — *raglan spine stitch #3*
10. K22 — *front stitches*
11. K1 — *raglan spine stitch #4 (left underarm area — just before BOR marker)*

> **Stitch count check:** 1 + 22 + 1 + 10 + 1 + 22 + 1 = **58**... Hmm, we need all 68 sts accounted for including the sleeve sts.

**Corrected clear breakdown:**

With 68 total stitches and 4 raglan spine stitches (1 each), the sections are:
- Raglan spine: 4 sts (1 at each of 4 raglan points)
- Back: 22 sts
- Front: 22 sts
- Right sleeve: 10 sts
- Left sleeve: 10 sts
- **Total: 4 + 22 + 22 + 10 + 10 = 68 sts** ✅

**Set-Up Round (simplified for the beginner):**

Starting at BOR:
- K11 (first half of front), pm-A, K1 (raglan spine), pm-B, K22 (back), pm-C, K1 (raglan spine), pm-D, K10 (right sleeve), remove and replace BOR... 

> **Beginner-Friendly Marker Placement — Let's use the clearest possible format:**

**SETUP ROUND:**

*Starting at BOR marker, work as follows:*

| Segment | Instruction | Sts |
|---|---|---|
| Left Front | k22 | 22 |
| Left Shoulder Raglan | pm (Marker A), k1, pm (Marker B) | 1 |
| Left Sleeve | k10 | 10 |
| Left Underarm Raglan | pm (Marker C), k1, pm (Marker D) | 1 |
| Back | k22 | 22 |
| Right Shoulder Raglan | pm (Marker E), k1, pm (Marker F) | 1 |
| Right Sleeve | k10 | 10 |
| Right Underarm Raglan | pm (Marker G), k1 — BOR sits here | 1 |

> **Total: 22+1+10+1+22+1+10+1 = 68 sts** ✅

*You now have 8 markers total: one pair flanking each raglan spine stitch.*

> **Simplification for beginners:** If 8 markers feels like a lot, you can use a **single marker at each raglan spine stitch** instead of flanking it. Just remember to always work the spine stitch as a plain knit, and place your increases on either side of it.

**For the rest of the pattern, each "raglan point" = the single spine stitch surrounded by its two markers.**

---

### SECTION 3: Yoke — Raglan Increase Rounds with Mock Cable Rib

You will now work a 2-round repeat:
- **Increase Round:** Work increases at all 4 raglan points (+8 sts total)
- **Even Round:** Work even in pattern (no increases)

**Raglan Increase Round instructions:**

At each raglan point, work as follows:
- Slip marker, **m1L**, k1 (spine stitch), **m1R**, slip marker

This adds 2 stitches at each of the 4 raglan points = **8 new stitches per increase round**.

**Stitch Patterns by Section:**
- **Front and Back sections:** Work in **Mock Cable Rib** (RT, p2; rep from *) as stitches are added — incorporate new stitches into pattern on the following even round.
- **Sleeve sections:** Work in **stockinette** (knit all sts in the round). *Sleeve stitches will be placed on hold later and won't be part of the final garment — keeping them in stockinette is simpler.*
- **Raglan spine stitches:** Always **k1** (plain knit).

> **Pattern incorporation tip:** As new stitches are added at the raglan points, they start as knit stitches. On the following even round, begin incorporating them into the mock cable rib pattern on the front/back sections. After 2–3 increase rounds you'll have enough stitches to form a full 4-stitch repeat (RT, p2). Work partial repeats as k2, p2 until you have enough for RT.

**Work the following 14 Increase Rounds**, working an even round between each:

| After Increase Round | Front/Back Sts Each | Sleeve Sts Each | Total Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Setup (before increases) | 22 | 10 | 68 |
| After Inc Rnd 1 | 24 | 12 | 76 |
| After Inc Rnd 2 | 26 | 14 | 84 |
| After Inc Rnd 3 | 28 | 16 | 92 |
| After Inc Rnd 4 | 30 | 18 | 100 |
| After Inc Rnd 5 | 32 | 20 | 108 |
| After Inc Rnd 6 | 34 | 22 | 116 |
| After Inc Rnd 7 | 36 | 24 | 124 |
| After Inc Rnd 8 | 38 | 26 | 132 |
| After Inc Rnd 9 | 40 | 28 | 140 |
| After Inc Rnd 10 | 42 | 30 | 148 |
| After Inc Rnd 11 | 44 | 32 | 156 |
| After Inc Rnd 12 | 46 | 34 | 164 |
| After Inc Rnd 13 | 48 | 36 | 172 |
| After Inc Rnd 14 | 50 | 38 | 180 |

> **Stitch count check after 14 increase rounds:**
> - 68 + (14 × 8) = 68 + 112 = **180 stitches** ✅
> - Front: 50 sts | Back: 50 sts | Each sleeve: 38 sts | Raglan spines: 4 × 1 st = 4 sts
> - 50 + 50 + 38 + 38 + 4 = **180 sts** ✅

**Yoke depth at this point:** 14 increase rounds + 14 even rounds = 28 rounds of yoke, plus 4 rounds of neck edging = 32 rounds total ÷ 9 rows per inch ≈ **3.5 inches (9 cm)** ✅

---

### SECTION 4: Work Even on Bodice (Optional)

Work **4 rounds even** in pattern (Mock Cable Rib on front/back, stockinette on sleeves, k1 on raglan spines) without any increases.

This adds approximately **0.5 in (1.5 cm)** to the yoke depth and gives a slightly longer bodice before the underarm separation.

*Total sts remain:* **180 sts**

---

### SECTION 5: Separate Sleeves — Underarm Division

You will now separate the sleeve stitches from the body stitches and cast on underarm stitches to bridge the gap.

**Work to the first raglan marker (left shoulder), then:**

**Step 1: Remove markers as you go.**

Work across the **back** section: work 50 sts in Mock Cable Rib pattern.

**Step 2: Place RIGHT sleeve on hold.**
- Remove raglan markers, slip the next **39 sts** (38 sleeve sts + 1 raglan spine st) onto a stitch holder or waste yarn.
- Using the backward-loop (or cable) cast-on, **CO 4 stitches** onto the right needle (underarm stitches).

**Step 3: Work across FRONT.**
- Work 50 front sts in Mock Cable Rib (removing remaining raglan markers as you pass them, including the 2 raglan spine stitches adjacent to the front — incorporate those sts into pattern or knit them plain).

**Step 4: Place LEFT sleeve on hold.**
- Slip the next **39 sts** (38 sleeve sts + 1 raglan spine st) onto a stitch holder or waste yarn.
- CO 4 stitches (underarm stitches).

**Step 5: Join and continue.**
- You are now working only the body stitches in a continuous round.

> **Body stitch count check:**
> - Back: 50 sts
> - Front: 50 sts
> - Right underarm CO: 4 sts
> - Left underarm CO: 4 sts
> - **Total body sts: 50 + 4 + 50 + 4 = 108 sts** 

> Hmm — let me reconsider. 108 sts ÷ 7 sts/in = 15.4 in circumference. For a 6-9 mo baby with ~17 in chest, this gives slight negative ease, which is appropriate for a bodice. However, to keep the mock cable rib pattern working perfectly on a 4-stitch repeat: **108 ÷ 4 = 27 repeats** ✅ Perfect!

> Also note: the 4 underarm cast-on stitches (2 on each side) will be worked in reverse stockinette (purl) to blend into the purl columns of the mock cable rib, or simply incorporated as purl stitches on either side of the side "seam" position. Instructions below will detail this.

**Pm BOR at the center of the right underarm cast-on stitches.**

*Body stitch count:* **108 sts** ✅

---

### SECTION 6: Bodice — Working Even After Underarm Separation

Work the **bodice in the round** in Mock Cable Rib pattern until bodice (from underarm) measures **1.5 in (4 cm)** from the underarm cast-on.

**At your gauge:** 1.5 in × 9 rows/in = approximately **14 rounds**

**Bodice Round (all rounds):**
*[RT, p2]; rep from * around. *(108 sts, 27 repeats)*

> **Underarm tip:** The 4 cast-on stitches at each underarm (8 total) will naturally fall into the p2 columns of the rib pattern. Work them as purl stitches and they'll blend in perfectly on either side of the "side seam" position.

> **Measuring tip:** Lay the dress flat and measure from the underarm (where you cast on) downward. Stop when you reach 1.5 in.

*After 14 rounds, bodice length from underarm = ~1.5 in (4 cm)*
*Total length from shoulder so far = ~5.5 in (14 cm)*

---

### SECTION 7: Skirt — Transition and A-Line Shaping

The skirt transitions from mock cable rib to **stockinette stitch** and expands with gradual increases to create a full, feminine A-line silhouette.

#### Transition Round

**Round 1 (Transition — Knit all stitches):**
Knit all 108 stitches. This "relaxes" the rib and smoothly transitions into stockinette.

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

*The rib will naturally spring back slightly — this creates a lovely defined waist/bodice boundary.*

#### Skirt Increase Setup

You will work **6 increase rounds** evenly spaced over the skirt. Each increase round adds **6 stitches** (worked at 6 evenly spaced points around the round) using m1L or m1R.

**Skirt target at hem:** 144 stitches
- Starting sts: 108
- Stitches to add: 144 - 108 = 36 sts
- 36 sts ÷ 6 increases per round = **6 increase rounds** ✅

**Increase round spacing:**
- Skirt length target: 12.5 in (32 cm) from underarm transition
- 12.5 in × 9 rows/in = ~112 rounds total in skirt
- Reserve last 6 rounds for hem edging
- Working rounds: 112 - 6 = 106 rounds
- Space 6 increase rounds evenly: every 106 ÷ 7 = approximately every **15 rounds**

**Increase Round:**
*[K18, m1L]; rep 6 times.* *(+6 sts)*

| After Skirt Inc Round | Total Sts | Approx. Circumference |
|---|---|---|
| Start (after transition) | 108 sts | 15.4 in |
| After Inc Rnd 1 (Rnd 17) | 114 sts | 16.3 in |
| After Inc Rnd 2 (Rnd 32) | 120 sts | 17.1 in |
| After Inc Rnd 3 (Rnd 47) | 126 sts | 18.0 in |
| After Inc Rnd 4 (Rnd 62) | 132 sts | 18.9 in |
| After Inc Rnd 5 (Rnd 77) | 138 sts | 19.7 in |
| After Inc Rnd 6 (Rnd 92) | 144 sts | 20.6 in |

> **Stitch count check:** 108 + (6 × 6) = 108 + 36 = **144 sts** ✅
> **Increase spacing check:** 18 sts between each increase point × 6 = 108 ÷ 6 = 18 ✅

**Work even in stockinette (knit every round)** between increase rounds.

After the 6th increase round, work **even** (no increases) until skirt (from underarm transition) measures **12 in (30.5 cm)**, ending with a plain knit round.

*You have approximately 12–14 plain rounds remaining after the last increase round.*

---

### SECTION 8: Hem Edging

Work a **garter stitch hem** for a clean, non-rolling finish.

**Round 1:** Purl all stitches. *(144 sts)*
**Round 2:** Knit all stitches. *(144 sts)*
**Round 3:** Purl all stitches. *(144 sts)*
**Round 4:** Knit all stitches. *(144 sts)*
**Round 5:** Purl all stitches. *(144 sts)*
**Round 6:** Knit all stitches. *(144 sts)*

**Bind off loosely** using the standard bind-off or a stretchy bind-off:

*Stretchy bind-off (recommended):* K2tog tbl, *slip st back to left needle, k2tog tbl; rep from * until 1 st remains, cut yarn and pull through last stitch.

> **Hem tip:** Katia Espiga is a cotton-acrylic blend that can be slightly inelastic. Use the stretchy bind-off to ensure the hem hangs beautifully and lies flat.

*Total skirt length after hem: ~12.5 in (32 cm)* ✅
*Total dress length from shoulder: ~5.5 + 12.5 = **~18 in (45.5 cm)*** 

> *(Slightly longer than the 17-in target, which is ideal — baby dresses should have a little length for growth and proportion. You may stop 1 in earlier in the skirt if you prefer a 17-in finished length.)*

---

### SECTION 9: Armhole Edging

The sleeve stitches are still resting on their holders. You will now finish the armhole edges and eliminate those stitches.

**First, pick up and knit around the armhole opening:**

With US 6 / 4.0 mm circular needle or double-pointed needles:

1. **Place the held sleeve sts** (38 sleeve sts + 1 raglan spine st = 39 sts) back onto the needle. Do NOT knit them — you will bind them off.
2. Rejoin yarn at the underarm. Pick up and knit **4 stitches** from the underarm cast-on edge.
3. Bind off the **39 held sleeve stitches** using a standard bind-off (work each stitch knitwise before binding off).
4. Pick up and knit **4 stitches** from the other side of the underarm cast-on.
5. You now have approximately **8 picked-up stitches** around the armhole.
6. Join in the round. Work **2 rounds of garter stitch** (Round 1: purl; Round 2: knit).
7. Bind off all stitches.

> **Alternative armhole finish (simpler):** Instead of picking up stitches, simply bind off all 39 sleeve stitches on the holder. Then, with a crochet hook or tapestry needle, work a single round of slip stitch or whip stitch around the armhole opening using MC yarn to neaten the edge. This avoids any picking up and is very beginner-friendly.

**Repeat for the second armhole.**

---

## Finishing

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle. Weave ends in a figure-eight pattern for at least 1 in in two directions to secure.

2. **Seam the underarm gaps** (if any small holes appeared at the join point): Thread a tapestry needle with MC yarn and use a duplicate stitch or mattress stitch to close any small holes at the underarm corners where held stitches met cast-on stitches.

3. **Block the dress:**
   - Fill a basin with cool water and a drop of gentle wool wash or baby shampoo.
   - Submerge the dress and gently squeeze (do not wring).
   - Roll in a towel to remove excess water.
   - Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towel, gently easing the dress to the finished measurements.
   - Allow to dry completely before wearing.
   - *Katia Espiga will soften and the stitches will even out beautifully after blocking.*

4. **Optional: Neck opening button band.** If you wish to add a button band for easier dressing:
   - Work a 3-stitch break in the back neck during setup (leaving 3 stitches un-joined) and work the neck edging flat for 4 rows instead of in the round.
   - Sew 3 small buttons on one side, with the other side forming natural buttonhole loops from the cast-on edge.
   - *This modification is optional — most baby dresses have enough neck stretch to slip over a baby's head without buttons.*

---

## Schematic

```
         ← ~9.75 in neck →
    ___________________________
   /        NECK EDGING        \     ↑ 0.5 in
  |___________________________|     ↓
  |  ← RAGLAN YOKE →          |     ↑
  |  Mock Cable Rib bodice     |     3.5 in
  |  + stockinette sleeves     |     (held on
  |  (sleeve sts placed on hold|      waste yarn)
  |___________________________|     ↓
  |  BODICE (in the round)     |     ↑ 1.5 in
  |  Mock Cable Rib, 108 sts   |     ↓
  |___________________________|
  |                             |    ↑
  |  SKIRT (stockinette,        |    ~12.5 in
  |  A-line increases,          |
  |  108 → 144 sts)             |    ↓
  |____________________________|
  ←   ~20.6 in at hem   →      ↑ 0.5 in hem
```

---

## Quick Reference — Round Summary

| Section | Rounds | Stitch Count | Stitch Pattern |
|---|---|---|---|
| Neck Edging | 4 rnds | 68 sts | Garter (k1 rnd, p1 rnd) |
| Yoke (increase rounds) | 28 rnds (14 inc + 14 even) | 68 → 180 sts | Mock cable rib (front/back), St st (sleeves) |
| Bodice even | 4 rnds | 180 sts | Mock cable rib + stockinette |
| Underarm separation | 1 rnd | 180 → 108 body sts | — |
| Bodice in round | ~14 rnds | 108 sts | Mock cable rib |
| Skirt transition | 2 rnds | 108 sts | Stockinette |
| Skirt with increases | ~106 rnds | 108 → 144 sts | Stockinette |
| Hem edging | 6 rnds | 144 sts | Garter (alternating k/p) |
| **Total skirt rounds** | **~112 rnds** | | |

---

## Yarn Yardage Estimate

| Section | Estimated Yards |
|---|---|
| Neck, yoke, bodice | ~100 yards |
| Skirt | ~160 yards |
| Hem + armhole edging | ~25 yards |
| **Total (MC)** | **~285 yards** |

> One ball of Katia Espiga (approximately 170 m / 186 yds per ball of 100g) — you will likely need **2 balls** to complete this dress comfortably, leaving a small amount for swatching and any adjustments.

---

## Skill Level: Beginner+

**Skills required:**
- ✅ Knitting in the round on circular needles
- ✅ Basic knit and purl stitches
- ✅ Simple two-stitch right twist (RT) — practiced on swatch
- ✅ Make 1 increases (m1L, m1R)
- ✅ Placing stitches on hold
- ✅ Binding off

**Skills NOT required:**
- ❌ Cable needle
- ❌ Short rows
- ❌ Seaming (this is a nearly seamless pattern)
- ❌ Picking up stitches (optional armhole finish)

---

*Pattern designed for Katia Espiga yarn. Always check your gauge before beginning. Finished measurements are approximate and may vary based on individual knitting gauge and blocking.*

*© Custom Knitting Pattern — For Personal Use*