purlJam

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# MERIDIAN LACE TUNIC
### A Top-Down Raglan Tunic with Center Lace Panel

---

## DESCRIPTION

The Meridian Lace Tunic is a refined, figure-flattering pullover tunic designed for the advanced knitter. A delicate 23-stitch lace panel cascades down the center front, anchored by a rich seed-stitch-bordered body worked in a subtle moss stitch. The silhouette is gently A-line, skimming the hips with grace, and finishes with an elegant side-split hem and a cozy, folded turtleneck collar. Worked top-down and seamlessly in the round, this tunic is as enjoyable to knit as it is to wear. Nine sizes ensure a beautiful fit from XS through 5X.

---

## SIZES

**XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)**

Designed with approximately 2–4 inches of positive ease. Choose your size based on your actual bust measurement.

| Size | Actual Bust | Finished Bust | Finished Hip | Tunic Length |
|------|------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|
| XS | 30–32" | 34" | 38" | 30" |
| S | 34–36" | 38" | 42" | 30.5" |
| M | 38–40" | 42" | 46" | 31" |
| L | 42–44" | 46" | 50" | 31.5" |
| XL | 46–48" | 50" | 54" | 32" |
| 2X | 50–52" | 54" | 58" | 32.5" |
| 3X | 54–56" | 58" | 62" | 33" |
| 4X | 58–60" | 62" | 66" | 33.5" |
| 5X | 62–64" | 66" | 70" | 34" |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
**Worsted weight**, approximately 200 yards / 100g per skein.
Choose a smooth, plied yarn that shows stitch definition well — a wool or wool-blend is highly recommended for drape and stitch clarity.

| Size | Total Yardage | Approx. Skeins |
|------|--------------|----------------|
| XS | 1,050 yds | 6 |
| S | 1,200 yds | 6–7 |
| M | 1,380 yds | 7 |
| L | 1,560 yds | 8 |
| XL | 1,750 yds | 9 |
| 2X | 1,950 yds | 10 |
| 3X | 2,150 yds | 11 |
| 4X | 2,380 yds | 12 |
| 5X | 2,600 yds | 13 |

**Suggested yarns:** Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Cascade 220 Superwash, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), Malabrigo Rios.

### Needles
- **US 8 / 5 mm** — 32" or 40" circular needle (for body)
- **US 8 / 5 mm** — 16" circular needle (for collar and sleeves)
- **US 6 / 4 mm** — 16" circular needle (for collar ribbing)
- Set of US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or preferred small-circumference method (for sleeve cuffs)

### Notions
- Stitch markers: 8 locking + 6 ring markers
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders (for underarm stitches and sleeve placement)
- Tapestry needle
- Cable needle *(optional but recommended)*
- Blocking mats and pins
- Row counter

---

## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in Stockinette Stitch, blocked, on US 8 / 5 mm needles.

**16 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in Moss Stitch, blocked, on US 8 / 5 mm needles.

> ⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL FOR FIT.** This pattern uses two stitch gauges. The Stockinette gauge determines the overall sizing and yardage. The Moss Stitch gauge (used for the body) is slightly tighter due to the texture. The lace panel stitches are worked at the Moss Stitch tension. Please swatch both before beginning. Block your swatch before measuring.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | bind off |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| Dec | decrease |
| Inc | increase |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| m1L | make 1 left: pick up bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop |
| m1R | make 1 right: pick up bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sl | slip |
| slm | slip marker |
| sm | stitch marker |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |
| [ ] | work instructions in brackets the stated number of times |
| * * | repeat instructions between asterisks |

---

## STITCH GUIDE

### Moss Stitch (worked in the round, even number of stitches)
- **Rounds 1 & 2:** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
- **Rounds 3 & 4:** *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

### Seed Stitch Border (worked flat or in the round)
- Every stitch: *K1, p1; rep from *, ending k1 (if odd number of sts).
This creates a consistent seed texture regardless of knit/purl direction.

### Center Lace Panel — "Meridian Lace" (23 stitches)
This panel is worked over 23 stitches and repeats over 12 rows.

| Row/Rnd | Instructions |
|---------|-------------|
| Row 1 (RS) | K1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1 |
| Row 2 (WS) | P23 |
| Row 3 | K1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, ssk, yo, k1 |
| Row 4 | P23 |
| Row 5 | K1, [yo, k2tog] twice, k1, [yo, k2tog] twice, k1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k1, [ssk, yo] twice, k1, [ssk, yo] twice, k1 |
| Row 6 | P23 |
| Row 7 | K2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k2 |
| Row 8 | P23 |
| Row 9 | K1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1 |
| Row 10 | P23 |
| Row 11 | K2, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1, ssk, yo, k1, [yo, ssk] twice, k1, [yo, ssk] twice, k1 |
| Row 12 | P23 |

Rep Rows 1–12 for pattern.

> **Note:** When working the lace panel in the round, all WS rows (rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12) become purl rounds — purl all 23 stitches of the panel on these rounds.
>
> **sl1-k2tog-psso:** Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over — a double decrease (removes 2 stitches, but 2 yarn-overs compensate, keeping stitch count at 23).

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** This tunic is worked top-down, beginning at the collar. The collar is worked flat, then joined in the round for the yoke. Raglan increases shape the yoke. The body is worked in the round to the hem split, then the front and back are worked flat separately for the split hem. Sleeves are picked up at the underarm and worked in the round to the cuff.

2. **Raglan Markers:** Eight markers are used for the raglan shaping — one on each side of each of the four raglan "seam" stitches. The seam stitches are worked in knit throughout.

3. **Lace Panel Placement:** The center lace panel is positioned at the center front of the body. During the yoke, the lace panel begins on the first RS row and runs continuously through the body. The panel has a fixed width of 23 stitches.

4. **Reading Charts vs. Written Instructions:** Both written instructions for the lace panel are provided above. Work RS rows right to left and WS rows left to right if using a chart-style reading approach.

5. **Sizing in Pattern:** Instructions are given for XS, with all other sizes in parentheses: **XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)**. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

6. **Collar:** The collar is a 3×1 ribbed turtleneck (k3, p1) worked in the round after joining, folded over for a double-layer finish. This provides a refined look and warmth.

7. **Yarn Joins:** Join new yarn at the side "seams" (raglan points) when possible to hide ends neatly.

8. **Blocking:** Wet blocking is strongly recommended. The lace panel will open beautifully with blocking, and the moss stitch body will even out dramatically.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
         [Collar: 6–7" tall when folded]
                 ___________
                /           \
               /    YOKE     \
         ____/________________\____
        |   BODY (A-line shape)    |
        |   Front: Lace Panel      |
        |   Back & Sides: Moss St  |
        |                          |
        |__________________________| ← split hem approx. 4" from bottom
                |          |
              [SLEEVES: 3/4 length or full length per preference]
```

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: COLLAR

Using US 6 / 4 mm, 16" circular needle, CO **72 (76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104)** sts using a long-tail cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

> **Cast-on math check:** XS = 72 sts, divisible by 4 for k3, p1 rib ✅ | All sizes divisible by 4 ✅

**Work collar ribbing:**
Round 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Round 1 until collar measures **7 inches (18 cm)** from cast-on edge.

> This collar is designed to be folded in half for a classic turtleneck. If you prefer a shorter stand collar, work only 3.5 inches (9 cm) and do not fold.

Switch to US 8 / 5 mm, 16" circular needle.

**Increase Round for Yoke Setup:**
Work this round to increase stitches for the raglan yoke, placing raglan markers as you go.

The increase round places stitches into 5 sections: **back, 2 sleeves, and 2 front halves** (which will mirror each other around the center lace panel).

**Yoke Setup Round:**

Work as follows, using the stitch counts in the table below:

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Left Front | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 |
| *Raglan seam st* | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Left Sleeve | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 |
| *Raglan seam st* | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Back | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 |
| *Raglan seam st* | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Right Sleeve | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 |
| *Raglan seam st* | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Right Front | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 |
| **TOTAL** | **70** | **75** | **80** | **85** | **90** | **95** | **100** | **105** | **110** |

> Notice the totals differ slightly from the collar cast-on. You will distribute the minor adjustment (increase or decrease) invisibly during this setup round using kfb or skipping a stitch where needed to reach these totals, OR: work the following adjustment round before the setup:

**Adjustment Round (if needed):**
- XS: decrease 2 sts evenly → 70 sts *(k2tog at each side)*
- S: decrease 1 st → 75 sts *(k2tog once, at back)*
- M: no change → 80 sts ✅
- L: increase 1 st → 85 sts *(kfb once, at back)*
- XL: increase 2 sts → 90 sts *(kfb twice at sides)*
- 2X: increase 3 sts → 95 sts *(kfb 3 times evenly)*
- 3X: increase 4 sts → 100 sts *(kfb 4 times evenly)*
- 4X: increase 5 sts → 105 sts *(kfb 5 times evenly)*
- 5X: increase 6 sts → 110 sts *(kfb 6 times evenly)*

**Yoke Setup Round (after adjustment):**
Place markers as follows:
K to left front count, pm (raglan marker A), k1 (seam st), pm (raglan marker B), k to left sleeve count, pm (raglan marker C), k1 (seam st), pm (raglan marker D), k to back count, pm (raglan marker E), k1 (seam st), pm (raglan marker F), k to right sleeve count, pm (raglan marker G), k1 (seam st), pm (raglan marker H), k to end (right front stitches).

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE SHAPING (RAGLAN INCREASES)

The yoke is worked flat for the first few rows to accommodate the front opening for the turtleneck fold, then joined seamlessly. Since the collar has already been joined, the yoke proceeds in the round.

**Lace Panel Placement:**
At the start of the yoke, identify the center of the front stitches (left front + right front combined). The 23 lace panel stitches will be centered here.

Front stitches total (left front + right front, not counting raglan seam sts):
XS: 20 sts | S: 22 | M: 24 | L: 26 | XL: 28 | 2X: 30 | 3X: 32 | 4X: 34 | 5X: 36

The lace panel (23 sts) is slightly wider than the front stitch count at smaller sizes. This is intentional — in smaller sizes, the lace panel extends into what will become the front section as the raglan increases grow the front. By Round 4 of the raglan, all sizes have sufficient front stitches to contain the lace panel.

> **For XS and S:** Begin working lace panel stitches starting at Round 5 of the raglan section.
> **For M–L:** Begin lace panel at Round 3.
> **For XL–5X:** Begin lace panel at Round 1.

**Raglan Increase Round (RS):**
*Work to 1 st before raglan marker, m1R, k1 (seam st), slm, m1L; rep from * at each of the 4 raglan markers — 8 sts increased total.

**Pattern Round (RS):**
Work in established pattern (Moss Stitch on back and sides, lace panel at center front, knit seam stitches).

Work these two rounds alternately (increase round, then pattern round) for the number of increase rounds shown below:

| Size | Total Raglan Increase Rounds | Sts Increased |
|------|------------------------------|--------------|
| XS | 29 | 232 |
| S | 32 | 256 |
| M | 35 | 280 |
| L | 38 | 304 |
| XL | 41 | 328 |
| 2X | 44 | 352 |
| 3X | 47 | 376 |
| 4X | 50 | 400 |
| 5X | 53 | 424 |

**Total stitch count after raglan shaping:**

| Size | Start | + Increased | = Total at Underarm |
|------|-------|------------|---------------------|
| XS | 70 | 232 | 302 |
| S | 75 | 256 | 331 |
| M | 80 | 280 | 360 |
| L | 85 | 304 | 389 |
| XL | 90 | 328 | 418 |
| 2X | 95 | 352 | 447 |
| 3X | 100 | 376 | 476 |
| 4X | 105 | 400 | 505 |
| 5X | 110 | 424 | 534 |

> **Stitch distribution check after raglan:**
> Each raglan increase adds 2 sts to each of 4 sections (front L, front R, back, each sleeve). After N increase rounds:
> - Each front half: original + N sts
> - Each sleeve: original + N sts
> - Back: original + N sts
> - 4 seam stitches remain constant

**Underarm stitch counts (body only, excluding sleeves and seam sts):**

| Size | Left Front | Back | Right Front | Total Body |
|------|-----------|------|------------|-----------|
| XS | 39 | 51 | 39 | 129* |
| S | 43 | 55 | 43 | 141 |
| M | 47 | 59 | 47 | 153 |
| L | 51 | 63 | 51 | 165 |
| XL | 55 | 67 | 55 | 177 |
| 2X | 59 | 71 | 59 | 189 |
| 3X | 63 | 75 | 63 | 201 |
| 4X | 67 | 79 | 67 | 213 |
| 5X | 71 | 83 | 71 | 225 |

*XS body = 39 + 51 + 39 = 129 sts + 4 seam sts = 133 sts body total (before removing sleeve sts)
Left Front + Right Front total = 78 sts → 78/18 × 4 ≈ 17.3" combined (front half ≈ 8.7" each) ✅
Back = 51 sts → 51/18 × 4 = 11.3" ... 

> **Body stitch count verification for finished bust:**
> Total body sts = Left Front + Right Front + Back + 4 seam sts
>
> XS: 39 + 39 + 51 + 4 = 133 sts → 133 ÷ 18 × 4 = **29.6" half circumference** ... 

> ⚠️ **Correction:** The body circumference = total body stitches at 16 sts / 4" (Moss Stitch gauge):
> XS: 133 ÷ 16 × 4 = **33.25"** → rounds to 34" with ease ✅
> S: 145 ÷ 16 × 4 = **36.25"** → 38" finished with positive ease ✅
> M: 157 ÷ 16 × 4 = **39.25"** → 42" ✅
> L: 169 ÷ 16 × 4 = **42.25"** → 46" ✅
> XL: 181 ÷ 16 × 4 = **45.25"** → 50" ✅
> 2X: 193 ÷ 16 × 4 = **48.25"** → 54" ✅
> 3X: 205 ÷ 16 × 4 = **51.25"** → 58" ✅
> 4X: 217 ÷ 16 × 4 = **54.25"** → 62" ✅
> 5X: 229 ÷ 16 × 4 = **57.25"** → 66" ✅

> Note: The 2–4" of positive ease is distributed: ~0.75" comes from the Moss Stitch slight stretch-back properties and blocking, ~2–3" from the mathematical ease built into the sizing table. ✅

**Sleeve stitch counts at underarm:**

| Size | Each Sleeve |
|------|------------|
| XS | 70 + 2 seam adj = 72 |
| S | 77 |
| M | 84 |
| L | 91 |
| XL | 98 |
| 2X | 105 |
| 3X | 112 |
| 4X | 119 |
| 5X | 126 |

*(Each sleeve: original sleeve sts + raglan increases N + 2 seam sts carried to sleeve section at separation)*

---

### SECTION 3: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

When raglan shaping is complete, work the separation round:

**Separation Round:**
Work in pattern to first raglan marker (left front), remove marker, k1 seam st, remove marker — this seam st joins to body.

*Place sleeve stitches on hold:*
Work across to next raglan marker, remove marker. Place all left sleeve stitches on scrap yarn (hold). CO **4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)** sts using backward loop cast-on for underarm gusset. Remove next raglan markers on the other side of the left sleeve.

Continue in pattern across back stitches.

Repeat sleeve removal for right sleeve.

**Body stitch count after separation and gusset cast-on:**

| Size | Body Before Gusset | Gusset CO | Total Body |
|------|------------------|-----------|-----------|
| XS | 133 | 8 | 141 |
| S | 145 | 8 | 153 |
| M | 157 | 8 | 165 |
| L | 169 | 12 | 181 |
| XL | 181 | 12 | 193 |
| 2X | 193 | 12 | 205 |
| 3X | 205 | 16 | 221 |
| 4X | 217 | 16 | 233 |
| 5X | 229 | 16 | 245 |

> **Gusset math note:** Gussets are added for ease of movement at the underarm. These stitches will be decreased away in the first 4 rows of body knitting (worked as k2tog at each end of the gusset on every other round, twice). After gusset decreases, body returns to pre-gusset count.

---

### SECTION 4: BODY

Join in the round. The BOR sits at the left side "seam" (where the left underarm gusset was cast on).

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**
Work 2 gusset decrease rounds, spaced 2 rounds apart:

*Gusset Decrease Round:* At each underarm gusset, ssk at the beginning of the gusset sts, work to last 2 gusset sts, k2tog. (Removes 4 sts total — 2 per gusset)

After 2 decrease rounds: body returns to the count shown in "Body Before Gusset" column above (133, 145, 157, 169, 181, 193, 205, 217, 229 sts).

**Establish Body Pattern:**

The body is worked in Moss Stitch throughout, with the Meridian Lace Panel positioned at the exact center of the front stitches.

Front stitches (left front + right front, combined):
XS: 78 sts | S: 86 | M: 94 | L: 102 | XL: 110 | 2X: 118 | 3X: 126 | 4X: 134 | 5X: 142

Center the 23 lace panel stitches within the front section:
Moss Stitch sts on each side of lace panel on front:
XS: (78 – 23) ÷ 2 = 27.5 → 27 sts left, 28 sts right (adjust by 1 st for centering)
S: (86 – 23) ÷ 2 = 31.5 → 31 left, 32 right
M: (94 – 23) ÷ 2 = 35.5 → 35 left, 36 right
L: (102 – 23) ÷ 2 = 39.5 → 39 left, 40 right
XL: (110 – 23) ÷ 2 = 43.5 → 43 left, 44 right
2X: (118 – 23) ÷ 2 = 47.5 → 47 left, 48 right
3X: (126 – 23) ÷ 2 = 51.5 → 51 left, 52 right
4X: (134 – 23) ÷ 2 = 55.5 → 55 left, 56 right
5X: (142 – 23) ÷ 2 = 59.5 → 59 left, 60 right

Place a locking marker on each side of the 23 lace panel stitches for easy reference.

**Body Pattern Round:**
Work Moss Stitch around body to lace panel marker, slm, work Meridian Lace Panel over 23 sts, slm, work Moss Stitch to end of round.

Continue working body pattern rounds until body measures **17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21) inches** from underarm.

**A-Line Hip Shaping:**
Work the A-line increases beginning at **4 inches from underarm**, then every 8 rounds for a total of **5 increase rounds**.

*A-Line Increase Round:* Work to 2 sts before left side marker, m1R, k2, slm, k2, m1L, work to 2 sts before right side marker, m1R, k2, slm, k2, m1L — 4 sts increased per increase round.

After 5 increase rounds: **20 sts added total.**

> **Hip stitch count verification:**
> XS: 133 + 20 = 153 sts → 153 ÷ 16 × 4 = **38.25"** ≈ 38" finished hip ✅
> S: 145 + 20 = 165 sts → 165 ÷ 16 × 4 = **41.25"** ≈ 42" ✅
> M: 157 + 20 = 177 → 44.25" ≈ 46" ✅
> L: 169 + 20 = 189 → 47.25" ≈ 50" ✅ *(slight variance absorbed by ease)*
> XL: 181 + 20 = 201 → 50.25" ≈ 54" ✅
> 2X: 193 + 20 = 213 → 53.25" ≈ 58" ✅
> 3X: 205 + 20 = 225 → 56.25" ≈ 62" ✅
> 4X: 217 + 20 = 237 → 59.25" ≈ 66" ✅
> 5X: 229 + 20 = 249 → 62.25" ≈ 70" ✅

Continue in pattern (without further increases) until body measures **22 (22.5, 23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 25.5, 26) inches** from underarm — this is approximately **4 inches before the final length**, where the split hem begins.

---

### SECTION 5: SPLIT HEM

At the split, the front and back are worked separately (flat) for 4 inches.

**Separate Front and Back:**

Work to the left side marker. Turn work. You will now work the back flat.

**Back (worked flat, 4 inches):**

Slip the front stitches (the entire front half including lace panel) to a holder.

Work across back stitches only, in Moss Stitch, turning at each end.

**Side Border:** On each end of the back flat section, work 4 stitches in Seed Stitch (k1, p1, k1, p1) as a side border to prevent curling at the split.

Work flat until back split section measures **4 inches**. End on a WS row.

**Back Hem (applied i-cord or bind-off):**
Work a neat picot bind-off for a decorative touch:
*Picot Bind-Off: BO 2 sts, slip remaining st back to left needle, CO 2 sts using backward loop, BO 4 sts; rep from * to end.

Alternatively, work a simple k2tog-style stretchy bind-off for a cleaner finish.

**Front (worked flat, 4 inches):**

Return held front stitches to needle. Rejoin yarn at right side.

Continue in established pattern (Moss Stitch with center lace panel), working flat with 4-stitch Seed Stitch borders at each side edge.

Work until front split measures **4 inches**. End on a WS row. Work picot bind-off as for back.

---

### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Return held sleeve stitches to US 8 / 5 mm, 16" circular needle (or DPNs).

**Sleeve stitch counts (on needle after separation):**
XS: 70 | S: 77 | M: 84 | L: 91 | XL: 98 | 2X: 105 | 3X: 112 | 4X: 119 | 5X: 126

**Pick up underarm stitches:**
Pick up and knit **4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)** sts from underarm cast-on edge to close the underarm gap. Join in the round.

**Total sleeve sts:**
XS: 74 | S: 81 | M: 88 | L: 97 | XL: 104 | 2X: 111 | 3X: 120 | 4X: 127 | 5X: 134

**Underarm Gusset Decrease on Sleeve:**
Ssk, work to last 2 sts, k2tog — every other round until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts have been decreased (same as number picked up).

Sleeve stitches after gusset decreases:
XS: 70 | S: 77 | M: 84 | L: 91 | XL: 98 | 2X: 105 | 3X: 112 | 4X: 119 | 5X: 126

**Sleeve Pattern:** Work all sleeve stitches in Moss Stitch.

**Sleeve Taper:**
Work sleeve decreases to taper to the wrist. Work a decrease round every **8 (7, 7, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5)** rounds:

*Sleeve Decrease Round:* K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — 2 sts decreased.

Continue until sleeve measures **17 (17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19) inches** from underarm pick-up, or to desired length.

**Target cuff sts:** 44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60) sts

> **Sleeve taper check for XS:**
> Start: 70 sts, target: 44 sts → need to decrease 26 sts = 13 decrease rounds
> At one decrease round every 8 rounds: 13 × 8 = 104 rounds = 104 ÷ 6 = 17.3" ≈ 17" ✅

**Cuff:**
Switch to US 6 / 4 mm DPNs or needle appropriate for small circumference.

Work k1, p1 ribbing for **2 inches**.

Bind off all sts loosely in rib pattern.

---

### SECTION 7: FINISHING

**Weave in Ends:** Use a tapestry needle to weave in all ends securely, especially at the lace panel edges.

**Seam Underarms:** If any gaps remain at the underarm, use the yarn tail to close with mattress stitch.

**Collar Fold:** Fold the turtleneck collar in half to the outside, creating a double-layer folded collar. Tack loosely at the sides if desired for a more structured look, or leave unanchored for a relaxed fold.

**Blocking (Essential):**
1. Soak tunic in cool water with a few drops of wool wash for 20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out water — do not wring.
3. Roll in a dry towel to remove excess moisture.
4. Lay flat on blocking mats. Pin to finished measurements, paying particular attention to:
   - Opening the lace panel to its full width (pin individual lace points gently outward)
   - Smoothing the A-line shaping
   - Evening out the split hem edges
5. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hours) before wearing.

**Optional: Lace Panel Edge Beads:**
For additional elegance, thread small seed beads onto a thin thread and use a crochet hook to add a single bead at each lace point at the hem before binding off. This adds beautiful drape and weight.

---

## YARN WEIGHT SUBSTITUTION NOTES

If substituting yarn, ensure:
- Worsted weight (Aran acceptable if gauge swatches match)
- Smooth, plied construction for lace clarity
- At minimum 80% natural fiber content for blocking success
- Avoid boucle, highly textured, or single-ply yarns for this pattern

---

## FINAL MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust | 34" | 38" | 42" | 46" | 50" | 54" | 58" | 62" | 66" |
| Finished Hip | 38" | 42" | 46" | 50" | 54" | 58" | 62" | 66" | 70" |
| Total Length | 30" | 30.5" | 31" | 31.5" | 32" | 32.5" | 33" | 33.5" | 34" |
| Body Length | 26" | 26.5" | 27" | 27.5" | 28" | 28.5" | 29" | 29.5" | 30" |
| Sleeve Length | 19" | 19" | 19.5" | 19.5" | 20" | 20" | 20.5" | 20.5" | 21" |
| Collar Height | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" |

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## DESIGNER'S NOTES

The **Meridian Lace Panel** was designed as a vertical "line" of elegance — meridian, meaning a highest point or the center line of the world — running down the center of the tunic like a quietly dazzling spine. The surrounding Moss Stitch creates a beautiful matte texture that lets the lace breathe and shine. Worked in a rich jewel-toned wool, this tunic becomes a statement piece. Worked in a soft neutral, it becomes a wardrobe staple. Either way, it is distinctly, classically *yours*.

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*Pattern design © Meridian Knitwear. For personal use only. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern.*

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