purlJam

<pattern>

# NORDIC GEOMETRIC FAIR ISLE PULLOVER
**A beginner-friendly drop-shoulder sweater with monochromatic colorwork bands**

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Configuration:**
- Standard gauge knitting machine (Brother/Silver Reed/equivalent)
- Main bed only (no ribber required for body; optional for ribbed hems)
- Bulky weight yarn setting
- Punchcard capability or electronic patterning recommended for colorwork (but can be done manually)

**Initial Setup:**
1. Cast-on with waste yarn and ravel cord method, or closed-edge cast-on
2. Cast-on comb and weights: Use claw weights distributed every 20-30 needles
3. Tension dial: Start at 7-8 for main bulky yarn; may need 8-9 for colorwork sections
4. Carriage: Set for normal stockinette (slip lever at N, part button off)
5. For Fair Isle sections: Use Fair Isle/slip setting or manual needle selection

**Swatch Instructions:**
- Cast on 40 sts over center needles
- Knit 40 rows in stockinette at tension 7
- Knit 20 rows in 2-color Fair Isle at tension 8
- Steam press lightly, allow to cool
- Measure gauge in both sections

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- **Main Color (MC - Cream):** 800 (900, 1000, 1100) yards bulky weight yarn
- **Contrast Color 1 (CC1 - Black):** 250 (275, 300, 325) yards bulky weight yarn
- **Contrast Color 2 (CC2 - Charcoal Gray):** 150 (175, 200, 225) yards bulky weight yarn
- **Contrast Color 3 (CC3 - Light Gray):** 150 (175, 200, 225) yards bulky weight yarn

**Suggested Yarn:** Any bulky (#5) weight yarn with approximately 90-110 yards per 100g skein

**Notions:**
- Ravel cord or waste yarn for cast-on
- Cast-on comb(s) and claw weights
- Transfer tools (single prong, 3-prong, or garter bar)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Sweater board or blocking mats
- Steam iron

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Stockinette Gauge (after steaming):**
- 3.5 stitches = 1 inch (14 sts = 4 inches)
- 5 rows = 1 inch (20 rows = 4 inches)
- Tension dial: 7-8

**Fair Isle Gauge (after steaming):**
- 3.5 stitches = 1 inch (may be slightly tighter)
- 5.5 rows = 1 inch (colorwork usually denser vertically)
- Tension dial: 8-9 (loosen by 1 number from stockinette)

**Measuring Your Swatch:**
1. Remove from machine and steam lightly with iron held 1" above fabric
2. Allow to cool completely (at least 30 minutes)
3. Measure across center of swatch, avoiding edges
4. Adjust tension dial if needed: tighter fabric = lower number, looser = higher number
5. Fair Isle sections should lie flat without puckering - if puckered, increase tension dial

**CRITICAL:** Achieving correct gauge is essential for proper fit. Take time to swatch and adjust.

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL)

**Finished Measurements:**
- **Chest circumference:** 40 (44, 48, 52)" [101.5 (112, 122, 132) cm]
- **Body length:** 24 (25, 26, 27)" [61 (63.5, 66, 68.5) cm]
- **Sleeve length:** 17 (18, 19, 19)" [43 (45.5, 48, 48) cm]
- **Shoulder width:** 20 (22, 24, 26)" [51 (56, 61, 66) cm] (same as body width)
- **Sleeve width at upper arm:** 14 (16, 18, 18)" [35.5 (40.5, 45.5, 45.5) cm]

**Ease:** Designed with 4-6" positive ease for relaxed fit

**Schematic Diagram:**
```
        BODY (Back & Front)
    |<--20(22,24,26)"-->|
    _____________________ ___
    |                   |  ↑
    |    Colorwork      | 8"
    |      Bands        |  ↓
    |___________________|____
    |                   |  ↑
    |                   |
    |    Main Body      | 16(17,18,19)"
    |    (MC only)      |
    |                   |  ↓
    |___________________|____


         SLEEVE
    |<-14(16,18,18)"--->|
     ___________________ ___
    |                   |  ↑
    |    Colorwork      | 4"
    |      Band         |  ↓
    |                   |____
    |         ↑         |  ↑
    |         |         |
    |    Increases      | 13(14,15,15)"
    |         ↓         |
    |                   |  ↓
    |___________________|____
    |<---9(10,11,11)"--->|

```

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Count:** 70 (77, 84, 91) sts
**Math check:** Size M: 77 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/inch = 22" ✓

**Setup:**
1. Position needles: Bring 70 (77, 84, 91) needles to work position, centered on bed
   - Size S: Needles 35L to 35R
   - Size M: Needles 38L to 38R (77 needles total)
   - Size L: Needles 42L to 42R
   - Size XL: Needles 45L to 45R

2. Cast on using waste yarn and ravel cord:
   - Knit 8 rows waste yarn at tension 10
   - Knit 1 row ravel cord
   - Change to MC, set tension to 7, begin pattern
   - COL (carriage on left)

**RC 000-010: Hem (MC only)**
- Set RC to 000
- Knit 10 rows stockinette
- COL
- Hang claw weights evenly across width

**RC 011-080: Lower Body (MC only)**
- Continue in stockinette, MC only
- Knit until RC reads 080 (016-080 = 70 rows)
- Check length: should measure approximately 14 (14, 15, 15)" from ravel cord
- COL

**RC 081-085: Transition to Colorwork**
- Join CC1 (Black) in second feeder
- Set tension dial to 8
- Knit 5 rows MC only (preparation rows)
- RC 085, COL

**RC 086-093: Chart A - Diamond Band**
- Follow Chart A (8-stitch repeat, 8 rows)
- Colors: MC and CC1
- Thread CC1 in second feeder
- Set carriage for Fair Isle (or manually select needles)
- Knit 8 rows following chart
- RC 093, COL
- **Math check:** 70 sts ÷ 8 = 8.75 repeats - CENTER chart: work 8 full repeats + 6 edge sts (70 sts total) ✓

**RC 094-095: Spacer Row**
- Knit 2 rows MC only
- RC 095, COL

**RC 096-111: Chart B - Infinity Braid Band**
- Follow Chart B (16-stitch repeat, 16 rows)
- Colors: MC and CC1
- **Math check:** 70 sts: work 4 full repeats + 6 edge sts centered ✓
- RC 111, COL

**RC 112-113: Spacer Row**
- Knit 2 rows MC only
- RC 113, COL

**RC 114-121: Chart C - Squares and Crosses**
- Follow Chart C (8-stitch repeat, 8 rows)
- Colors: MC, CC1, CC2
- **Math check:** 70 sts: work 8 full repeats + 6 edge sts ✓
- RC 121, COL

**RC 122-123: Spacer Row**
- Knit 2 rows MC only
- RC 123, COL

**RC 124-139: Chart D - Three-Layer Zigzag Border**
- Follow Chart D (12-stitch repeat, 16 rows)
- Colors: MC, CC1, CC2, CC3
- **Math check:** 70 sts: work 5 full repeats + 10 edge sts (centered) ✓
- This is the most complex chart with staircase effect
- RC 139, COL

**RC 140-145: Transition from Colorwork**
- Break CC yarns
- Continue MC only
- Tension dial back to 7
- Knit 6 rows
- RC 145, COL

**RC 146-148: Shoulder Edge**
- Knit 3 rows MC
- RC 148, COL

**Total Rows:** 148 rows
**Math check:** 148 rows ÷ 5 rows/inch = 29.6" (Note: colorwork sections knit denser at ~5.5 rows/inch, so actual length ≈ 26-27") ✓

**Finishing Back:**
- Remove on waste yarn (knit 8 rows waste yarn, remove from machine with ravel cord through last row), OR
- Bind off with latch tool across all stitches
- Steam press gently, especially colorwork sections

---

## FRONT_PANEL

**Work exactly as for Back Panel through RC 130.**

**RC 131: Begin Neck Shaping**
- COL
- Mark center 18 (20, 22, 24) sts for neck
  - Size S: 18 sts = needles 9L to 9R
  - Size M: 20 sts = needles 10L to 10R
  - Size L: 22 sts = needles 11L to 11R
  - Size XL: 24 sts = needles 12L to 12R

**Neck Shaping - Right Side:**
1. Move center neck stitches + all stitches to right of center to hold position (HP)
2. Work left shoulder only (COL):
   - RC 131: Knit to center, move adjacent 3 sts to HP
   - RC 132: COR, knit back
   - RC 133: COL, move 2 sts to HP
   - RC 134: COR, knit back
   - RC 135: COL, move 2 sts to HP
   - RC 136: COR, knit back
   - RC 137: COL, move 1 st to HP
   - RC 138-148: Knit even on remaining shoulder sts (11 rows)

3. Remove left shoulder on waste yarn or latch-tool bind off

**Neck Shaping - Left Side:**
1. Return carriage to right (COR)
2. Bring right shoulder needles back to work position
3. Place center neck sts on holder/waste yarn
4. Mirror shaping:
   - RC 131: COR, knit to left, move 3 sts adjacent to neck to HP
   - RC 132: COL, knit back
   - RC 133: COR, move 2 sts to HP
   - RC 134: COL, knit back
   - RC 135: COR, move 2 sts to HP
   - RC 136: COL, knit back
   - RC 137: COR, move 1 st to HP
   - RC 138-148: Knit even (11 rows)

4. Remove right shoulder on waste yarn or bind off

**Math check - Shoulders:**
- Size M: 77