Off-the-Shoulder Zip Sweater

A slightly oversized drop-shoulder sweater with a wide ribbed neckline designed to sit on the upper arms. The body is knit in the round from the hem to the underarms. The upper back is raised with German short rows; the upper front is split for a zipper so the sweater is easy to put on and take off. Sleeves are picked up around the armholes and knit down in the round. Stockinette fabric, 2x2 rib, and straightforward drop-shoulder shaping keep the project beginner-friendly; German short rows and zipper finishing are fully explained in the notes.

Sizes

Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

To fit bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" (76 [86.5, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137] cm)

Finished bust: 36½ (40, 44½, 48, 51½, 56, 60½)" (92.5 [101.5, 113, 122, 131, 142, 153.5] cm) — about 6–6½" (15–16.5 cm) of positive ease

Front length (top of neck ribbing to hem): 23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29)" (58.5 [61, 63.5, 66, 68.5, 71, 73.5] cm)

Length to underarm (includes hem ribbing): 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18)" (38 [39.5, 40.5, 42, 43, 44.5, 45.5] cm)

Armhole depth (includes neck ribbing): 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)" (20.5 [21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28] cm)

Center back is about 1–1¼" (2.5–3 cm) longer than the front because of the short rows.

Sleeve length from underarm (includes cuff): 16½ (17, 17, 17½, 17½, 18, 18)" (42 [43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm)

Shown in size M. Choose the size whose finished bust is about 6" (15 cm) larger than your actual bust. For a cropped sweater, knit 2–3" (5–7.5 cm) less before dividing at the underarms.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC 4), approximately 1050 (1200, 1350, 1500, 1700, 1900, 2100) yd / 960 (1100, 1235, 1370, 1555, 1740, 1920) m

Wool, wool-blend, or cotton-blend worsted with good stitch definition and some bounce works well. Smooth, lightly elastic yarns help the neckline stay put.

Needles:

• US 8 (5 mm) 32" (80 cm) circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge
• US 8 (5 mm) double-pointed needles, or a long circular for magic loop, for sleeves
• US 6 (4 mm) 32" (80 cm) circular needle, or two sizes smaller than gauge needle, for ribbing
• US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed needles or magic loop, for cuffs

Notions:

• Stitch markers (2)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13)" (25.5 [25.5, 28, 28, 30.5, 30.5, 33] cm) non-separating zipper (buy after measuring the finished opening if possible)
• Sewing needle and thread to match the yarn
• Optional: ¼" (6 mm) elastic, about 28–40" (71–102 cm), for the neckline

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked.

Check gauge in the round (the body is mostly circular). A 4" (10 cm) stockinette swatch should measure 18 sts wide and 24 rows tall. Change needle size if needed — fit depends on gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

BO — bind off
BOR — beginning of round
CO — cast on
dec — decrease
DS — double stitch (German short row)
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
MDS — make double stitch (see Pattern Notes)
p — purl
pm — place marker
rnd(s) — round(s)
RS — right side
sl — slip
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) — stitch(es)
St st — stockinette stitch (knit every rnd in the round; knit RS rows and purl WS rows when flat)
WS — wrong side
wyif — with yarn in front

Pattern Notes

Construction. The body is a tube from the hem to the underarms. You then work the Back flat, adding German short rows so the center back sits higher, and you split the Front at the center for the zipper. Short seams at the outer top edges sit on the upper arms and form the armholes. Sleeves are picked up and knit down.

Off-the-shoulder fit. The neckline is wide on purpose. Unzip to put the sweater on, place the ribbed edge on the upper arms, then zip. The back short rows keep the back from drooping. If the neckline feels loose, thread ¼" (6 mm) elastic through the WS of the neck ribbing and tack the ends.

Ribbing. All ribbing is k2, p2. Cast on and body stitch counts are multiples of 4. Bind off neck and cuffs in pattern, loosely — go up one needle size for the bind-off if your bind-off is tight.

Zipper. The opening runs only through the upper front (underarm to neck). The body below the underarms stays a closed tube, so a non-separating zipper is correct. Measure the knitted opening before you buy the zipper; a zipper ¼–½" (6–13 mm) shorter than the opening is easier to sew in than one that is too long.

Working flat after the divide. When the work is flat, the first and last stitch of every row are edge stitches for picking up the sleeves. Knit them on RS rows and purl them on WS rows (do not slip them).

German short rows (MDS)

The Back uses German short rows. They add extra height in the center of the back only.

To MDS after turning (RS or WS):

1. Turn the work.
2. Bring the yarn to the front (wyif) if it is not already there.
3. Slip the next stitch purlwise.
4. Pull the working yarn firmly over the right needle to the back. The slipped stitch now shows two legs — that is the double stitch (DS).
5. If the next stitch is a purl, bring the yarn between the needles to the front into purl position. If the next stitch is a knit, leave the yarn in back.

On a later row, when you meet a DS: Knit or purl both legs together as one stitch. This closes the turn with no hole.

Practice MDS on a leftover swatch before you work the Back if short rows are new to you.

Body

With smaller circular needle and using a long-tail cast-on, CO 164 (180, 200, 216, 232, 252, 272) sts. Pm for BOR and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist. Place a second marker after 82 (90, 100, 108, 116, 126, 136) sts to mark the left side. BOR is the right side of the body.

Finished bust check: 164 (180, 200, 216, 232, 252, 272) sts × 4" / 18 sts = 36½ (40, 44½, 48, 51½, 56, 60½)" ✓

Hem Work k2, p2 rib until the hem measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from the cast-on.

Body Change to larger circular needle. Knit every round in St st until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18)" (38 [39.5, 40.5, 42, 43, 44.5, 45.5] cm) from the cast-on, including the hem, ending at BOR.

Divide for Front and Back

Next rnd: Knit to 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts before the left-side marker, BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12) sts (remove the side marker as you bind off), knit to 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts before BOR, BO the remaining 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12) sts (remove BOR).

164 (180, 200, 216, 232, 252, 272) − 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12) − 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12) = 152 (168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts remain; 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) Back + 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) Front ✓

Place the 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) Front sts on waste yarn or a holder. The 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) Back sts remain on the needle, with the working yarn at the right armhole edge (RS facing you, just after the last bind-off). Turn the work so WS is facing to begin the Back.

Back

Working flat in St st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows), work even until the armhole edge measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½, 8, 8½)" (14 [15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5] cm) from the divide, ending with a WS row.

German short rows (raise the center back)

The short rows do not add length at the armhole edges; they add about 1 (1, 1, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼)" (2.5 [2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3] cm) at center back.

Short Row 1 (RS): Knit to last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts, MDS, turn.

Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts, MDS, turn.

Short Row 3 (RS): Knit to 6 sts before the DS, MDS, turn.

Short Row 4 (WS): Purl to 6 sts before the DS, MDS, turn.

Repeat Short Rows 3–4 another 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s). You now have 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) double stitches on each side.

Check (stitches remaining in the center on the last turn):

• XS: 6+6+6 = 18 parked each side; 76 − 36 = 40 center sts ✓
• S: 7+6+6 = 19 each side; 84 − 38 = 46 center sts ✓
• M: 8+6+6 = 20 each side; 92 − 40 = 52 center sts ✓
• L: 9+6+6+6 = 27 each side; 100 − 54 = 46 center sts ✓
• XL: 10+6+6+6 = 28 each side; 108 − 56 = 52 center sts ✓
• 2X: 10+6+6+6 = 28 each side; 116 − 56 = 60 center sts ✓
• 3X: 11+6+6+6 = 29 each side; 124 − 58 = 66 center sts ✓

Next row (RS): Knit across all stitches, knitting each DS (both legs) as one stitch.

Next row (WS): Purl across all stitches, purling any remaining DS (both legs) as one stitch. 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts ✓

Back neck ribbing

Change to smaller needle.

Next row (RS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in k2, p2 rib until the ribbing measures 2" (5 cm), ending with a WS row. BO loosely in rib.

The Back armhole edge (St st + ribbing, not counting the extra center-back short-row height) should measure about 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)" (20.5 [21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28] cm). Make a note of this measurement; the Fronts must match it.

Front

Return the 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) held Front sts to the larger needle. With RS facing, join yarn at the left armhole edge (the edge that was next to the left underarm bind-off).

Split for zipper

Next row (RS): K 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) and place these sts on a holder for the Left Front. K remaining 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts (Right Front).

76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) = 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) + 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) ✓

Work the Right Front first, then the Left Front, so both sides have the same number of rows.

Right Front

Continue in St st on these 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts until the armhole edge matches the Back armhole edge length before ribbing (the St st portion only), ending with a WS row. Do not include the extra center-back short-row height — match the side of the Back.

Neck ribbing Change to smaller needle.

Next row (RS): K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end.

(Each zipper edge begins and ends with k2: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) = 4n + 2 ✓)

Continue in k2, p2 rib as established until the ribbing measures 2" (5 cm) and the total armhole edge (St st + ribbing) matches the Back armhole edge. BO loosely in rib.

Left Front

Return the held 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) Left Front sts to the larger needle. With RS facing, join yarn at the zipper edge (center front).

Work as for Right Front: St st until the armhole edge matches, then 2" (5 cm) of k2, p2 rib starting with k2 on the RS, then BO loosely in rib.

The two Fronts should be the same length as each other and the same edge length as the Back.

Join the upper-arm seams

The “shoulders” of this sweater sit on the upper arms, not on the natural shoulder.

With RS together (or use mattress stitch with RS facing you), sew the outer 1 (1¼, 1¼, 1½, 1½, 1¾, 2)" (2.5 [3, 3, 4, 4, 4.5, 5] cm) of the Front and Back bind-off edges together at each side.

These short seams close the top of each armhole and leave a wide neckline. The remaining bound-off edges are the off-the-shoulder neck.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

With larger DPNs or magic-loop needle and RS facing, beginning at the center of one underarm bind-off, pick up and knit:

• 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts along the first half of the underarm bind-off,
• 34 (36, 38, 40, 43, 45, 47) sts evenly along the Front armhole edge (St st and ribbing),
• 34 (36, 38, 40, 43, 45, 47) sts evenly along the Back armhole edge,
• 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts along the remaining half of the underarm bind-off.

34 + 34 + 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) + 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6) = 74 (78, 84, 88, 94, 100, 106) sts ✓

Pm for BOR at the underarm. Join to work in the round.

Pickup tip: Along stockinette, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows. Along ribbing, pick up 1 st in each row-end, skipping an end now and then if you are running over the stitch count.

Knit 6 rounds even.

Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work 3 (3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2) rounds even.

Repeat the last 4 (4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3) rounds (1 Dec rnd + the even rounds) 18 (18, 21, 21, 24, 25, 26) more times.

Decrease rounds total 19 (19, 22, 22, 25, 26, 27).
74 (78, 84, 88, 94, 100, 106) − 2 × 19 (19, 22, 22, 25, 26, 27) = 36 (40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 52) sts ✓

Work even in St st until the sleeve measures 14 (14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5)" (35.5 [37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5] cm) from the pickup, or 2½" (6.5 cm) less than the desired total sleeve length.

Cuff Change to smaller needles.

Work k2, p2 rib for 2½" (6.5 cm).
36 (40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 52) is a multiple of 4 ✓

BO loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in ends that will not be hidden by the zipper tape, leaving the center-front ends until the zipper is in.

Block. Soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a little wool wash, press out water in a towel, and lay flat to dry. Smooth the ribbing, the short-row back, and the zipper edges so they are straight and equal in length. Blocking before sewing the zipper is important — fabric length can change.

Zipper

1. Measure the center-front opening from the top of the neck ribbing to the base of the split (where the body tube begins). Choose a non-separating zipper that length or up to ½" (13 mm) shorter.
2. Pin the zipper in with the teeth just visible between the two Front edges, or with the knitted edges meeting over the teeth if you want them hidden. The top zipper stops should sit just below the bind-off; the bottom stop should sit at the base of the split.
3. With matching thread, backstitch (or machine-stitch) through the knitted fabric and the zipper tape, close to the teeth, down one side and then the other. Keep the Front edges level with each other so the ribbing matches.
4. On the WS, stitch the outer edge of each zipper tape to the sweater so the tape lies flat.

Optional zipper facing (neater on the inside): With smaller needle and RS facing, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along one center-front edge, from neck bind-off to the base of the split. Work 4 rows in garter stitch (knit every row). BO. Repeat on the other Front. Fold each facing to the WS over the zipper tape and whipstitch the bind-off to the inside of the sweater.

Optional neckline elastic: Cut ¼" (6 mm) elastic 1–2" (2.5–5 cm) shorter than the neckline circumference. Weave it through the WS of the neck ribbing (not through the zipper), overlap the ends, and sew them down. This helps the sweater stay off the shoulder.

Weave in any remaining ends. Lightly steam the zipper area if the fiber allows (do not rest a hot iron on acrylic or on the zipper teeth).

Wear unzipped to slip on, set the ribbed edge on the upper arms, then zip. The raised back and ribbed neckline hold the shape.

Enjoy your sweater.