S-Curve Compound Raglan Pullover

Overview

This is a top-down raglan pullover worked seamlessly in the round. The raglan construction creates diagonal lines from the neckline to the underarms, and the seamless method eliminates sewing. Perfect for intermediate knitters ready to try seamless construction. This version features German short-row back-neck shaping and an S-curve compound raglan (increase frequency changes across the yoke) for a more anatomical shoulder and upper-chest fit.

Skill Level

Intermediate

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) To fit bust 34-36 (38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52)" / 86.5-91.5 (96.5-101.5, 106.5-112, 117-122, 127-132) cm Finished bust circumference: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm with 2-4" positive ease Shown in Medium.

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn Approximately 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1700) yd / 1005 (1145, 1280, 1415, 1555) m Sample uses a smooth wool or wool-blend worsted that meets gauge.

Needles

US 8 / 5 mm circular needle, 16" / 40 cm and 32" / 80 cm (or lengths preferred for magic-loop) US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or preferred small-circumference method for sleeves US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle (for ribbing), same lengths Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain gauge.

Notions

Stitch markers (4 contrasting for raglan lines + 1 BOR) Waste yarn or stitch holders Tapestry needle Row counter (recommended)

Gauge

17 sts and 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked. (4.25 sts per inch)

Abbreviations

BOR: beginning of round CO: cast on k: knit k2tog: knit 2 together m: marker M1L: make 1 left (lift strand between sts from front to back, knit through back loop) M1R: make 1 right (lift strand between sts from back to front, knit through front loop) p: purl pm: place marker rep: repeat rnd(s): round(s) RS: right side sl: slip sm: slip marker ssk: slip, slip, knit st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side wyif: with yarn in front

Construction Notes

• Worked top-down in one piece.
• Four raglan lines divide Back, Left Sleeve, Front, Right Sleeve.
• German short rows raise the back neck before raglan increases begin.
• S-curve compound raglan: increase rate changes (every rnd → every other rnd → every 3rd rnd → every 4th rnd) so the raglan line forms a gentle S, giving more room at the upper arm and a smoother chest transition.
• Each increase rnd adds 8 sts (M1R before each raglan m, M1L after each raglan m).
• Try on after yoke is complete to confirm armhole depth before separating sleeves.

Stitch Patterns

1×1 Rib (in the rnd): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Stockinette (in the rnd): Knit every rnd.

Pattern Instructions

Neckline

With smaller 16" / 40 cm circular needle, CO 64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts using a stretchy cast-on. Place BOR marker and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist.

Work 1×1 Rib for 1.5" / 4 cm.

Change to larger needle.

Set-up rnd (place raglan markers): K20 (22, 24, 26, 28) for Back, pm, k12 (14, 16, 18, 20) for Right Sleeve, pm, k20 (22, 24, 26, 28) for Front, pm, k12 (14, 16, 18, 20) for Left Sleeve, pm (this is also BOR). 64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts total. (Back + Front = 40 (44, 48, 52, 56); Sleeves = 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) ✓)

German Short-Row Back Neck Shaping

Short rows are worked back and forth over the Back and partial Sleeves only. Use German short rows (double st method).

Short Row 1 (RS): K to 1 st before first sleeve m, turn. Short Row 2 (WS): Make double st (sl 1 wyif, pull yarn over needle to create double st), p to BOR m, sm, p to 1 st before next sleeve m, turn. Short Row 3 (RS): Make double st, k to double st, knit double st as one st, k2, turn. Short Row 4 (WS): Make double st, p to double st, purl double st as one st, p2, turn. Short Rows 5-8: Rep Short Rows 3-4 twice more, working 2 additional sts past the previous double st each time. Short Row 9 (RS): Make double st, k to BOR m.

Resume working in the rnd. On the first full rnd, knit each remaining double st as one st. Back neck is now raised approximately 1.25" / 3 cm.

Yoke – S-Curve Compound Raglan Increases

Continue in stockinette. Raglan increase rnd: *K to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end. (8 sts increased)

Work the following phased schedule. Counts shown are total sts after the listed increase rnds.

Phase A – Steep curve (every rnd): Work Increase Rnd every rnd 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times. Sts: 96 (104, 120, 128, 144)

Phase B – Upper S transition (every other rnd): *Work 1 plain rnd, work Increase Rnd; rep from * 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) times. Sts: 160 (176, 192, 208, 224)

Phase C – Mid S curve (every 3rd rnd): *Work 2 plain rnds, work Increase Rnd; rep from * 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) times. Sts: 208 (224, 248, 264, 288)

Phase D – Lower shallow curve (every 4th rnd): *Work 3 plain rnds, work Increase Rnd; rep from * 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) times. Sts: 248 (272, 296, 320, 344)

Total increase rnds: 23 (25, 27, 29, 31) Total yoke rows/rnds after short rows: approximately 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) – Medium matches the requested ~22 increase repeats / 44 rows.

Yoke depth from CO edge (including neckband): approximately 7.75 (8.5, 9.25, 10, 10.75)" / 19.5 (21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm. (Inline check Medium: 72 + (25 × 8) = 72 + 200 = 272 ✓)

Divide Body and Sleeves

Next rnd (divide): K37 (41, 45, 49, 53) Back sts, place next 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) Right Sleeve sts on waste yarn, CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) underarm sts, k74 (82, 90, 98, 106) Front sts, place next 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) Left Sleeve sts on waste yarn, CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) underarm sts, k remaining 37 (41, 45, 49, 53) Back sts to BOR. Body sts: 160 (180, 200, 220, 240) (Inline check Medium: 41+82+41 + 8+8 = 164+16=180; 272 – 54 – 54 +16 = 180 ✓)

Place new BOR marker at center of underarm CO if desired.

Body

Work even in stockinette until body measures 13 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 15)" / 33 (34.5, 35.5, 37, 38) cm from underarm, or 2" / 5 cm less than desired total length.

Change to smaller needle. Work 1×1 Rib for 2" / 5 cm. Bind off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

Place held 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sleeve sts onto larger DPNs or short circular. Pick up and knit 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts along first half of underarm CO, pm for BOR, pick up and knit 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts along remaining underarm CO. Sleeve sts: 56 (62, 68, 74, 80)

Work 6 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec)

Rep Decrease rnd every 8th (7th, 6th, 6th, 5th) rnd 10 (12, 14, 15, 17) more times. Sts remaining: 34 (36, 38, 42, 44)

Work even until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18, 18, 18.5)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47) cm from underarm, or 2" / 5 cm less than desired length.

Change to smaller needles. Work 1×1 Rib for 2" / 5 cm. Bind off loosely in rib.

Rep for second sleeve.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Block gently to finished measurements, pinning raglan lines straight and allowing the S-curve to settle naturally. Optional: steam or wet-block neckband to prevent rolling.

Finished Measurements (blocked)

• Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
• Yoke depth (CO to underarm): 7.75 (8.5, 9.25, 10, 10.75)" / 19.5 (21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm
• Body length (underarm to hem): 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)" / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 19 (19.5, 20, 20, 20.5)" / 48.5 (49.5, 51, 51, 52) cm
• Upper arm: 13.25 (14.5, 16, 17.5, 18.75)" / 33.5 (37, 40.5, 44.5, 47.5) cm

Math Validation Summary

• Neck CO Medium 72 sts ✓
• Medium yoke end 272 sts after phased increases (25 × 8 = 200; 72 + 200 = 272) ✓
• All sizes maintain even counts compatible with 1×1 rib ✓
• Underarm CO + body sts produce listed bust circumference at 4.25 sts/inch ✓
• Short-row section adds back depth without altering final st count ✓