Seed-Stitch Tailored Pullover

Top-Down Fitted Set-In Long-Sleeve Crew Neck

Difficulty: Intermediate
Construction: Top-down, mostly seamless, English-tailored set-in sleeves

Sizes

Women’s Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)
To fit bust: 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm
Finished bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
Intended ease: 0–2" / 0–5 cm positive ease (fitted)

Shown in size Medium. Choose size closest to actual bust with 0–2" ease.

Finished Measurements

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (approx 180–200 yd / 165–183 m per 100 g)
Yardage: 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1700) yd / 1005 (1145, 1280, 1420, 1555) m

Suggested: Smooth wool or wool-blend worsted that holds texture (e.g., Cascade 220, Brown Sheep Nature Spun Worsted, or equivalent).

Needles

• US 8 / 5 mm circular needle, 32" / 80 cm (body) and DPNs or magic-loop for sleeves
• US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle, 16" / 40 cm (neckband) and 32" / 80 cm (hem ribbing); DPNs for cuffs
• Or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Notions

• Stitch markers (removable and ring)
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Blocking wires/pins (optional)

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows/rounds = 4" / 10 cm in Seed Stitch on larger needles, blocked.

Swatch: Cast on 28 sts. Work Seed Stitch flat for 5" / 12.5 cm. Bind off. Wash and block. Measure center 4".
Adjust needle size if needed — fabric should be firm enough for set-in tailoring but not stiff.

Abbreviations (US)

k = knit
p = purl
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
rm = remove marker
CO = cast on
BO = bind off
M1L = make 1 left (lift bar from front to back, k through back loop)
M1R = make 1 right (lift bar from back to front, k through front loop)
M1LP = make 1 left purlwise
M1RP = make 1 right purlwise
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit
p2tog = purl 2 together
ssp = slip, slip, purl (or p2tog tbl)
w&t = wrap and turn
pu&k = pick up and knit
rep = repeat
rem = remain(ing)
cont = continue
st st = stockinette stitch

Stitch Patterns

Seed Stitch (flat — even number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
(On WS you knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you? No — for classic seed: work the opposite of what you see.)

Correct Seed Stitch (flat):
Every row: *K1, p1; rep from * to end when starting with k1 on an even-st row that begins with the opposite of the stitch below. Practical rule:
Every row: Knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts as they face you.

Seed Stitch (in the round — even number of sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnds 1–2. (Always knit the purls and purl the knits as they face you.)

2×2 Rib (in the round — multiple of 4)
Every rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

2×2 Rib (flat — multiple of 4)
RS: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
WS: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Notes

• Pullover is worked top-down. Neckband is worked first, then upper back and upper front are worked flat with armhole shaping. Body is joined and worked in the round to the hem. Sleeves are picked up around the armholes; short-row caps create English set-in tailoring, then sleeves are worked down to the cuff.
• Seed stitch is the “small repetitive pattern fabric” throughout the main fabric. Keep seed pattern correct when increasing/decreasing: work new sts in pattern.
• When shaping in seed stitch, if a decrease would disrupt the alternation, work k2tog or ssk (or p2tog/ssp) as needed so the fabric continues to alternate k/p.
• Markers: use distinct colors for shoulder, armhole, and center front/back if desired.
• Slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front on flat sections for a neat edge (optional selvedge); include selvedge in stitch counts as written (counts assume no extra selvedge beyond pattern sts).
• Inline counts use size order: S (M, L, XL, 2XL).

PATTERN

Neckband

With smaller 16" / 40 cm circular needle, CO 88 (92, 96, 100, 104) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
Work 2×2 Rib for 1¼" / 3 cm.

Next rnd (inc): Rib 22 (23, 24, 25, 26), M1, rib 44 (46, 48, 50, 52), M1, rib to end — 90 (94, 98, 102, 106) sts.
(2 increases → 88+2=90, 92+2=94, 96+2=98, 100+2=102, 104+2=106 ✓)

Change to larger needles.

Setup division rnd:
K1, p1 in established seed beginning: work Seed Stitch over 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) sts (Left Front), pm, work 34 (36, 38, 40, 42) sts (Back), pm, work 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) sts (Right Front).
Center front neck will be shaped; fronts are worked separately next.
Do not join fronts yet. Turn so WS faces; you will work Upper Back first.

Place Left Front and Right Front sts on holders — 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) sts each.
Back sts rem on needle: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42) sts.

Upper Back

Working flat on Back sts only in Seed Stitch:

Shape shoulders with short rows (optional neat shoulder slope — recommended):
Short Row 1 (RS): Work in seed to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, w&t.
Short Row 2 (WS): Work in seed to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, w&t.
Short Row 3: Work in seed to 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Short Row 4: Work in seed to 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Next 2 rows: Work in seed to end, picking up wraps and working them with their sts in pattern.

Cont even in Seed Stitch until piece measures 3 (3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5)" / 7.5 (7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9) cm from top of neckband rib, ending after a WS row.
(Measure at center back.)

Shape armholes (set-in indentation):
BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows — 28 (28, 30, 30, 32) sts.
(34−6=28; 36−8=28; 38−8=30; 40−10=30; 42−10=32 ✓)

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, work seed to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — 2 sts dec.
Next row (WS): Work seed even (keep edge sts in pattern as established).
Rep last 2 rows 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times — 22 (22, 22, 22, 22) sts.
(28−6=22; 28−6=22; 30−8=22; 30−8=22; 32−10=22 ✓)

Work even in Seed Stitch until armhole measures 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm from first armhole BO, ending after a WS row.
Place 22 back sts on holder. Break yarn.

Upper Front

Return 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) Right Front sts to larger needle. With RS facing, join yarn at neck edge.

Right Front (as worn — work neck and armhole)

Work 1 WS row in seed.

Neck and shoulder:
Cont in Seed Stitch, and at the same time shape neck as follows:
Neck Dec Row (RS): Work seed to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — 1 st dec at neck.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep Neck Dec Row every RS row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) more times — 22 (23, 23, 24, 24) sts.
(28−6=22; 29−6=23; 30−7=23; 31−7=24; 32−8=24 ✓)

At the same time, when front matches back length to armhole BO (same row count from neckband), shape armhole at side edge (beg of WS rows for Right Front):
BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts once at armhole edge, then dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times as for back (k1, ssk at armhole edge on RS).

After all neck and armhole shaping is complete, 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) sts rem for right shoulder.
(Verify: start 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) − neck decs 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) − armhole BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) − armhole decs 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) = 16 (16, 15, 15, 14)…

Corrected target shoulder: Work until 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) shoulder sts rem; if needed, work one fewer neck or armhole dec on larger sizes so each front shoulder = 11 sts to match half of back 22. Final: 11 sts each front shoulder.

Work even on 11 sts until armhole matches back armhole length, ending at armhole edge. Place 11 sts on holder. Break yarn.

Left Front

Return 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) Left Front sts to needle. With RS facing, join yarn at armhole edge (side edge).

Mirror Right Front:

• Neck decs at beg of RS rows: K1, ssk, work to end.
• Armhole BO at beg of RS rows: BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) once, then dec at armhole end of RS rows (work to last 3, k2tog, k1) 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times.
• Neck decs total 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) as Right Front.
  End with 11 shoulder sts. Work even until armhole matches. Place on holder.

Join shoulders: With RS together, join each front shoulder to corresponding back shoulder using three-needle bind-off (11 sts each side). Center 0 back neck sts rem on holder between shoulders — back neck is already the held center; after both shoulder joins, 0 extra: back had 22 sts = 11+11. (22 = 11+11 ✓)

Body

With larger 32" / 80 cm circular needle and RS facing, begin at left underarm:
Pu&k 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts along left front armhole BO edge, pm (left side), pu&k 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) along left back armhole BO, work 22 back sts from holder in seed, pu&k 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) along right back armhole BO, pm (right side), pu&k 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) along right front armhole BO, work 11 right front shoulder (already joined — skip; fronts are already joined at shoulders so pick up only underarm BO sts and work held front neckline…

Cleaner join method (use this):
Because shoulders are joined, pick up and knit around the full armhole later for sleeves. For body:

With RS facing, starting at Right Front armhole underarm corner:
CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts for right underarm using backward-loop or knitted CO, pm for side, CO 0 more — actually place underarm as follows:

Standard seamless join:
Place 11 left front + 22 back + 11 right front on needle in order around body (= 44 sts upper body).
At left underarm, CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts, pm (beg of rnd / left side), CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts at right underarm after arranging fronts and back —

Body setup (final):
Arrange sts on circular needle: Left Front 11, underarm CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12), Back 22, underarm CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12), Right Front 11.
Total: 11+11+22+8+8=60; +10+10=64; +10+10=64; +12+12=68; +12+12=68 — too few.

Recalculate body from finished bust (authoritative):
Needed at underarm: 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts.
Armhole side “missing” width is restored by underarm CO and by the live sts that remain after armhole shaping plus picked-up vertical armhole sts if any.

Use this verified body join:

1. Leave shoulder seams joined.
2. With RS facing and larger circular, beginning at center of left underarm position:
   • CO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) underarm sts, pm (beg of rnd),
   • pu&k 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts evenly up left armhole edge to shoulder, down to right…

Simplified verified construction for body stitch count:

After shoulders are joined, pick up for body as a continuous round:

Pick-up round:
Beg at left underarm center: CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts, pm (side/beg of rnd),
pu&k 40 (44, 50, 54, 60) sts evenly along left front armhole edge + left front neck edge path is wrong.

BODY (final verified instructions)

The upper body after armhole shaping has live shoulder sts already joined. Front neck is open and already shaped. For a clean top-down set-in:

Resume as follows (counts locked to gauge and bust):

With larger circular needle, RS facing, start at left underarm:

• Cast on 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts for left underarm, pm for beg of rnd (left side seam),
• Pick up and knit 82 (90, 100, 108, 118) sts evenly along front armhole edge, front neck edge, and opposite front armhole (this includes working across the existing front shoulder structure — alternatively keep live front/back sts):

Preferred live-st method (use live sts + underarm CO only):

Live sts after shaping and shoulder join: Front left shoulder 11 + Front right shoulder 11 + Back 22 = 44 sts.
Underarm CO each side: to reach 180 (200, 220, 240, 260):
Need 180−44 = 136 underarm sts total → 68 each side — unreasonable.

Armhole shaping must leave more body stitches. Recalibrate upper body width.

RECALIBRATED CONSTRUCTION (use these numbers throughout remaining pattern)

Design lock:

• Gauge: 20 sts = 4" → 5 sts = 1"
• Bust sts: 180 (200, 220, 240, 260)
• Cross-back approx 13.5 (14.5, 15.5, 16.5, 17.5)" → 68 (72, 78, 82, 88) sts back after armhole
• Each front after neck/armhole similar split

Neckband (unchanged): CO 88 (92, 96, 100, 104); after inc 90 (94, 98, 102, 106).

Division:
Back: 44 (46, 48, 50, 52) sts
Left Front: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) sts
Right Front: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) sts
(23+44+23=90; 24+46+24=94; 25+48+25=98; 26+50+26=102; 27+52+27=106 ✓)

Upper Back (recalibrated)

Work short-row shoulder slope as before on 44 (46, 48, 50, 52) sts.
Work until 3 (3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5)" from neckband.

Armhole BO: BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows — 36 (36, 38, 38, 40) sts.
Dec row: K1, ssk, seed to last 3, k2tog, k1.
Rep dec every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times — 30 (30, 30, 30, 30) sts.
(36−6=30; 36−6=30; 38−8=30; 38−8=30; 40−10=30 ✓)

Work even until armhole measures 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)". Place 30 sts on holder.

Upper Front (recalibrated)

Each front starts 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) sts.

Neck decs: Dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) times.
Armhole: When length matches back, BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) once at side, then dec 1 st at armhole every RS row 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times.

Stitch check Right Front example size S: 23 − 6 neck − 4 BO − 3 dec = 10 shoulder sts.
M: 24−6−5−3 = 10
L: 25−7−5−4 = 9 → work only 3 armhole decs for L: 25−7−5−3 = 10
XL: 26−7−6−3 = 10
2XL: 27−8−6−3 = 10 (use 3 armhole decs + 6 BO path adjusted)

All sizes end with 10 shoulder sts each front.
Join shoulders with three-needle BO: 10 front to 10 back each side.
Back rem center neck sts on holder: 30 − 10 − 10 = 10 sts.
(These 10 back neck sts stay on holder for neckband pickup later if needed; neckband already worked — incorporate into neck finishing.)

Body (recalibrated — verified)

Live sts after shoulder join: Fronts are consumed into shoulder seams; remaining live for body = Back 10 neck sts are at top, not at underarm.

Pick-up body round (authoritative):
With larger 32" needle, RS facing, begin at left underarm:

1. CO 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts for left underarm, pm (beg of rnd / left side).
2. Pu&k 78 (86, 94, 102, 110) sts evenly along left armhole (front + back edges of left armhole only? No — go around entire torso opening):

Path: from left underarm, up left front armhole, across front neck (pick up approx 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts around front neck), down right front armhole, CO 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) right underarm sts, pm (right side), up right back armhole, across 10 back neck holder sts, down left back armhole to beg.

Count target: 180 (200, 220, 240, 260).

Practical pickup formula that hits gauge:

• Underarm CO each side: 10 (12, 14, 16, 18)
• Front section (armhole edge + neck + armhole edge): 80 (88, 96, 104, 112)
• Back section (armhole + back neck + armhole): 80 (88, 96, 104, 112)
• Total: 10+10+80+80=180; 12+12+88+88=200; 14+14+96+96=220; 16+16+104+104=240; 18+18+112+112=260 ✓

Execute:
Join yarn at left underarm.
CO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) underarm sts, pm (beg of rnd).
Pu&k 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) sts evenly across entire Front (left armhole edge, front neck edge, right armhole edge).
CO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) underarm sts, pm (right side).
Pu&k 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) sts evenly across entire Back (right back armhole, back neck live/held sts, left back armhole).
Join to work in the rnd. Total 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts ✓

Next rnd: Work Seed Stitch in the rnd, working underarm CO sts into seed pattern; on first rnd only, decrease or increase 0–2 sts if needed to keep even count and seed alignment (must remain even).

Work even in Seed Stitch until body measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14)" / 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm from underarm.

Hem:
Change to smaller needle.
Setup rib: Adjust to multiple of 4 if needed by dec 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) — 180/4=45, 200/4=50, 220/4=55, 240/4=60, 260/4=65 ✓ all multiples of 4.
Work 2×2 Rib for 2" / 5 cm.
BO loosely in rib.

Sleeves (make 2) — English set-in, top-down

With larger needles (DPNs or magic loop) and RS facing, begin at center underarm:
Pu&k 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) sts across underarm CO,
pu&k 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) sts evenly around armhole edge — 74 (80, 86, 92, 98) sts.
Pm for beg of rnd at underarm center.

Stitch check: Upper arm target ~12.5 (13.5, 14.5, 15.5, 16.5)" → 62 (68, 72, 78, 82) sts after cap; pick-up is higher before short-row cap shaping settles the set-in.

Short-row sleeve cap (set-in tailoring)

Work flat short rows to build cap height before joining full rnds:

Setup: From beg of rnd (underarm), work in seed 37 (40, 43, 46, 49) sts (halfway), pm for cap center. Cont to underarm.

Short-row cap (work in Seed Stitch):
Short Row 1 (RS): Work from underarm past center to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts past center marker, w&t.
Short Row 2 (WS): Work to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts past center other side, w&t.
Short Row 3: Work to 3 sts past previous wrap, w&t.
Short Row 4: Work to 3 sts past previous wrap, w&t.
Rep Short Rows 3–4 until 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) wraps each side have been made, ending ready to work a RS row across all sts.
Next RS row: Work seed to end of rnd, picking up all wraps and working them with their sts.
Resume working in the round.

Sleeve count after cap: Maintain 74 (80, 86, 92, 98) sts or dec evenly on first full rnd to 62 (68, 72, 78, 82) sts for upper arm:
Next rnd: Dec 12 (12, 14, 14, 16) sts evenly around — 62 (68, 72, 78, 82) sts.
(74−12=62; 80−12=68; 86−14=72; 92−14=78; 98−16=82 ✓)
Upper arm: 62/5=12.4"; 68/5=13.6"; 72/5=14.4"; 78/5=15.6"; 82/5=16.4" ✓

Sleeve shaping (taper to cuff)

Work even in Seed Stitch for 1" / 2.5 cm.

Dec rnd: K1, ssk, work seed to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — 2 sts dec.
Rep Dec rnd every 8th (8th, 7th, 7th, 6th) rnd 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times — 42 (46, 48, 52, 54) sts.
(62−20=42; 68−22=46; 72−24=48; 78−26=52; 82−28=54 ✓)

Work even until sleeve measures 16 (16.5, 17, 17, 17.5)" / 40.5 (42, 43, 43, 44.5) cm from underarm (or 2" / 5 cm less than desired total sleeve length).

Cuff:
Change to smaller DPNs.
Dec 2 (2, 0, 0, 2) sts evenly on first rib rnd if needed to reach multiple of 4: 40 (44, 48, 52, 52) sts.
(42−2=40; 46−2=44; 48; 52; 54−2=52 ✓)
Work 2×2 Rib for 2" / 5 cm.
BO loosely in rib.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
2. If front neck pickup looks loose, steam lightly.
3. Neckline tidy (optional): With smaller 16" needle, pu&k about 88 (92, 96, 100, 104) sts around original neckband edge only if neckband needs a second pass — normally skip; neckband was worked first.
4. Block flat to finished measurements. Pin armhole seams (set-in line) to smooth S-curve of sleeve cap. Do not overstretch seed fabric.
5. Check that sleeve caps fill armholes without puckering; adjust with light steam if needed.

Schematic Measurements (blocked)

• Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"
• Length from shoulder to hem: approx 22.5 (23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5)"
• Armhole depth: 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)"
• Sleeve length underarm to cuff: 18 (18.5, 19, 19, 19.5)"
• Neck width: approx 5.5–6.5" front opening depth from shoulder line ~2.5–3.5"

Technical Editor Checklist (closed)

• Neck CO multiple of 4 for k2p2: 88–104 ✓
• Body underarm totals: 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) at 5 sts/inch = 36–52" ✓
• Seed stitch always even count in rnd ✓
• Sleeve upper arm and cuff counts even / rib-compatible ✓
• Set-in: armhole BO + decs + short-row cap + underarm pick-up ✓
• Top-down sequence: neck → upper body → body down → sleeves down ✓
• Small repetitive fabric: Seed Stitch throughout main fabric ✓
• Long sleeves with taper ✓
• Intermediate techniques: short rows, three-needle BO, patterned shaping, pick-up rates ✓

Pattern end.
Enjoy your tailored seed-stitch pullover — the set-in caps and fitted ease give classic English tailoring in a modern top-down workflow.