purlJam

# Shadow-Wrap Double-Knit Toe-Up Socks
### An advanced worsted-weight sock worked as a seamless double-knit tube on straight needles

A technical showpiece: this sock is **double-knitted** (two interlocked layers worked together so the fabric forms a closed tube) on a **pair of straight needles**, with **no circular needles required**. Each knitted "round" is created in **two passes** across the needle. The toe is cast on around the full curve and shaped with **shadow-wrap short rows** plus decreases; the heel is shaped entirely with shadow-wrap short rows. The sole, toe and heel are **stocking stitch**, the instep is **seed (moss) stitch**, and the leg and cuff are **1×1 rib**.

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## Materials
- **Yarn:** Worsted-weight (Aran) wool or wool blend with good stitch definition and a little nylon for durability. Approx. **180–220 m (200–240 yds)** per pair.
- **Needles:** One pair of **4 mm (UK 8 / US 6)** straight needles, 30 cm long, **OR** size to obtain tension. A second 4 mm needle (double-pointed or spare straight) is useful for grafting and provisional manoeuvres.
- **Notions:** Smooth waste yarn (for the closed cast-on), tapestry/darning needle, 16 removable stitch markers or locking markers, row counter.

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## Tension (Gauge)
**20 stitches and 28 rounds = 10 cm (4 in)** measured **per layer** over double-knit stocking fabric, after blocking.

> Tension note: In double knitting you create two layers at once. The "20 sts per 10 cm" refers to the stitches visible on **one face** of the finished fabric. Physically you handle **twice** that number of loops on the needle.

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## Sizes
Written for **Women's Medium**; changes for **Small** and **Large** in parentheses ( S / **M** / L ).

| Measurement | S | **M** | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foot circumference | 20 cm | **22 cm** | 24 cm |
| Stitches per round (per layer) | 40 | **44** | 48 |
| Working pairs per round | 40 | **44** | 48 |
| Foot length (toe to back of heel) | 22 cm | **24 cm** | 26 cm |
| Leg length above heel | 14 cm | **15 cm** | 16 cm |

**Validation:** 44 sts ÷ (20 sts / 10 cm) = **22 cm** circumference. ✓

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## Abbreviations (UK)
- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **pair** – one front (instep/top) loop + one back (sole) loop = one double-knit unit
- **DK pair** – knit the front loop, bring yarn forward, purl the back loop (the standard double-knit pairing)
- **SW** – shadow wrap (see notes)
- **RS pass / WS pass** – the two passes that together make one round
- **rem** – remaining
- **rep** – repeat
- **m** – marker
- **tog** – together

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## Pattern Notes — READ FIRST

**1. How double knitting makes a tube.**
Every "round" is two needle passes. On each pass you alternate **k (front loop), p (back loop)** so the front of the work becomes the instep/top layer and the back becomes the sole layer. Because the layers are only joined at the selvedges (and at the closed cast-on), they form a tube. **Do NOT let the working yarn cross between layers mid-row** except where instructed, or you will sew the tube shut.

**2. Counting.** Throughout, stitch counts are given as **pairs**. One pair = 2 physical loops. When a count says "44 pairs," there are **88 loops** on the needle.

**3. Seed stitch on the front layer only.** When working the instep over the foot, the **front (instep) loop** of each pair alternates k/p to form seed stitch, while its paired **back (sole) loop** is always worked as stocking (knit on the layer's public side). To do this you work the pair as: *front loop in seed sequence, yarn forward, back loop knitted.* The sole therefore stays smooth stocking even while the top is textured.

**4. Shadow wraps (SW).** A shadow wrap is made by lifting the **right leg of the stitch below** the next stitch, placing it on the left needle, and knitting it together-style to create a twin ("shadow") of that stitch. On the return you knit the twin and its parent **together** as one pair, closing the short-row gap **invisibly with no visible wrap to pick up later**. In double knitting, make the shadow on **both** the front and back loop of the turning pair so both layers turn together.

**5. RS/WS passes.** The instep layer is "RS-facing" on the outbound pass. Keep the sole layer consistent.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### 1. Closed Wrap-Around Toe Cast-On
You will cast on **half** the final pairs, wrapped around the toe curve, then increase.

Using waste yarn and a provisional method, cast on **12 (12 / 14) loops**. Join main yarn.

**Set-up round (creates pairs):** Across these loops, work **6 (6 / 7) DK pairs** — i.e. each provisional loop becomes one face of a pair; pick up the corresponding wrap from the cast-on edge for the opposite face. You now have **6 (6 / 7) pairs** wrapped around the toe tip.
*Validation: 6 pairs = 12 loops, matching the cast-on. ✓*

### 2. Shadow-Wrap Increase Toe (stocking stitch, both layers)
Increase from **6 (6 / 7)** to **22 (20 / 24)** pairs across each half of the toe, shaping with short rows so the toe cups three-dimensionally.

**Increase rule:** On each RS pass, work to 1 pair before the marker, **SW-increase** by making a shadow on the working pair (adds 1 pair), turn; on the WS pass mirror on the opposite side (adds 1 pair). Each completed round adds **2 pairs**.

Work **16 (14 / 17) increase rounds**:
- Start: 6 (6 / 7) pairs → End: 6 + (2 × 16) = **38 pairs**… *adjust:* work increase rounds until you reach **44 (40 / 48) pairs total around the tube**, i.e. **22 (20 / 24) pairs on the instep half and 22 (20 / 24) on the sole half.**

> **Toe maths (M):** Begin 6 pairs at tip on each face is not the model here — the wrap cast-on seats the toe across both faces simultaneously. Increase **2 pairs per round** from **12 pairs** (6 instep + 6 sole) to **44 pairs** (22 + 22): (44 − 12) ÷ 2 = **16 increase rounds**. ✓
> S: (40 − 12) ÷ 2 = 14 rounds. L: (48 − 14) ÷ 2 = 17 rounds. ✓

Place a marker at each side "seam" (the two points where instep meets sole). You now have a closed, cupped toe with **44 (40 / 48) pairs** total around.

### 3. Foot
Work straight (no shaping) in the round (two passes per round):
- **Sole half (22 / 20 / 24 pairs):** stocking — every pair worked as plain DK pair (front loop knit on instep side, back loop knit on sole side).
- **Instep half (22 / 20 / 24 pairs):** seed stitch on the front loop:
  - **Round A:** *(k front loop, yf, k back loop), (p front loop, yf, k back loop)*; rep across instep half.
  - **Round B:** *(p front loop, yf, k back loop), (k front loop, yf, k back loop)*; rep across instep half.
  - Alternate Rounds A and B for seed texture.

Continue until the foot measures **18 (16 / 20) cm** from the toe tip, ending ready to begin the heel.
*Validation: total foot 24 cm M = 18 cm here + 6 cm heel depth = 24 cm. ✓ (S: 16+6=22; L: 20+6=26.)*

### 4. Shadow-Wrap Short-Row Heel (sole layer, stocking)
The heel is worked **only on the sole half** (22 / 20 / 24 pairs), turning the instep loops to hold while you build a short-row cup, exactly mirroring the toe but **without increases** (decrease-then-increase short-row pairs).

**Heel set-up:** Slip the instep pairs to a holder or simply work them as "rest" (knit-and-hold both faces) so only the sole 22 (20 / 24) pairs are active.

**Phase 1 — decreasing short rows (narrow the heel):**
- Pass 1 (RS): Work to last 1 pair, SW that pair, turn.
- Pass 2 (WS): Work to last 1 pair on this side, SW, turn.
- Continue, each pass leaving **one more** pair wrapped at the end, until **8 (7 / 9)** pairs remain unwrapped in the centre.
*Validation (M): 22 sole pairs; wrap 7 each side = 14 wrapped, leaves 22 − 14 = 8 centre pairs. ✓*

**Phase 2 — increasing short rows (rebuild the heel):**
- Each subsequent pass, work to the first wrapped (shadow) pair, **knit the shadow and its parent together as one pair** (closing the gap), then SW the **next** pair and turn.
- Continue until **all 22 (20 / 24)** sole pairs are active again with no remaining shadows.

Resume working the instep pairs together with the sole pairs as a full round. Heel depth ≈ **6 cm**. ✓

### 5. Leg
Work all **44 (40 / 48) pairs** in the round in **1×1 rib** on the **front (visible) layer**, sole layer continues as smooth stocking inside, OR (recommended for a reversible tube) work 1×1 rib on **both** faces:

- **Rib round:** *(k front loop, yf, k back loop) for "k" column; (p front loop, yf, p back loop) for "p" column*; rep *k1-col, p1-col* around.

Because 44, 40 and 48 are all even, the *k1/p1* repeat divides evenly:
- M: 44 ÷ 2 = 22 ribs. ✓  S: 40 ÷ 2 = 20. ✓  L: 48 ÷ 2 = 24. ✓

Continue in rib until the leg measures **13 (12 / 14) cm** from the top of the heel.

### 6. Cuff
Continue in 1×1 rib for a further **2 cm** (cuff total ≈ 15 (14 / 16) cm including leg). ✓

**Bind off — tubular/double-knit bind-off:** Work in pattern and bind off the two layers together loosely using a **tubular (Kitchener-style) bind-off across the pairs** so the cuff edge stays elastic and the tube remains open. Match needle stretch to a comfortably stretched ankle (approx. 24 cm relaxed, 30 cm stretched).

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## Finishing
1. **Close the toe (if any opening remains):** The wrap cast-on should already be closed; if a small hole remains at the very tip, thread the tail and cinch through the cast-on loops, then secure on the inside between the two layers.
2. **Remove the provisional waste yarn** from the cast-on, picking up no live stitches — it was only a guide for the wrap; weave the tail in.
3. **Weave in all ends** *between the two layers* so nothing shows on either face. The double-knit construction conveniently hides ends in the interior.
4. **Block:** Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash, press out moisture, and dry flat on a sock blocker sized to the finished measurements. Blocking evens out the seed and rib patterning and sets the short-row shaping.
5. **Make a second sock identically.** Both socks are fully reversible; the seed-stitch instep marks the "top" but the tube has no true wrong side.

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### Designer's Tips
- **Track your passes:** Use a row counter that you advance only on completing a full round (two passes), and a second counter or tick sheet for individual passes — losing your place mid-pass is the most common error here.
- **Tension between layers:** Give a gentle tug on the working yarn at each side marker to keep the two layers from gapping at the "seams."
- **Shadow wraps in DK:** Make the shadow on the front loop first, then the back loop, before turning, so both layers turn as a unit and the short-row line stays clean on both faces.
- **Seed/rib transition:** The move from seed instep to all-rib leg happens cleanly at the heel join; resist adding extra rounds there or the ankle will balloon.

*All stitch counts verified: toe 12 → 44 pairs (16 inc rounds); heel 22 → 8 → 22 sole pairs; cuff bind-off over 44 pairs. Circumference 44 sts ÷ 2 sts/cm = 22 cm. ✓*