Shark Attack Socks

Easy Cuff-Down Worsted Socks — Child to Adult XL

A matching pair of hungry shark socks, worked cuff down so you can try them on as you go. The cuff is the shark’s mouth: a stretchy rib, a white gum band, then embroidered teeth. The body is plain stockinette (beginner-friendly). A garter-stitch dorsal fin is sewn to the instep; eyes and gills are added at the end.

Skill level: Beginner (first socks welcome). You should already know knit, purl, and working in the round.

Sizes

Child (Small, Medium, Large, XL)

Instructions are written for Child with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

To fit foot circumference: 7.5 (8.5, 9.25, 10, 10.75)" [19 (21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm]
Finished sock circumference: 6.5 (7.25, 8, 8.75, 9.5)" [16.5 (18.5, 20.5, 22, 24) cm]
(about 10% negative ease — socks should measure smaller than the foot)

Recommended finished foot length (heel to toe tip; try on and adjust):
6.5–7.5 (8–9, 9–10, 10–11, 11–12)" [16.5–19 (20.5–23, 23–25.5, 25.5–28, 28–30.5) cm]

Shoe-size guide (approximate): Child US 12–2 / Women’s 5–7 / Women’s 8–10 or Men’s 6–8 / Women’s 11–12 or Men’s 9–11 / Men’s 12–14.

Make two identical socks.

Yarn

Worsted weight (CYC 4), wool or wool-blend preferred for spring and durability.

• MC (shark body): gray, charcoal, or ocean blue — 140 (170, 200, 230, 270) yd [128 (155, 183, 210, 247) m]
• CC (gums and teeth): white — 20 (20, 25, 25, 30) yd [18 (18, 23, 23, 27) m]
• Black scrap for eyes and gills — about 5 yd [5 m]
• Optional Mouth Pink — a few yards of light rose for 2 rounds inside the mouth

Superwash wool or a wool/nylon blend wears best. Acrylic is acceptable for a first pair but will pill faster on the sole.

Needles

US 5 / 3.75 mm, or size needed to get gauge:

• 32–40" (80–100 cm) circular for magic loop, or
• A set of 4 double-pointed needles (3 holding stitches + 1 working)

Optional: one size smaller needle for a firmer cuff.

Notions

• Stitch markers (2, plus 1 unique beginning-of-round marker)
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Small amount of stuffing or yarn scraps for the fins (optional)
• Adult sizes only: 4 small buttons for eyes (2 per sock), if you prefer buttons to embroidery

Child safety: Do not use buttons on socks for children under 3 years. Embroider the eyes.

Gauge

22 sts and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch in the round, after a light steam or wet block.

Check gauge. Too loose → floppy socks that wear out. Too tight → they will not fit.

If you get 20 sts = 4", use smaller needles or knit a smaller size. If you get 24 sts = 4", use larger needles or knit a larger size.

Abbreviations (US)

Notes

• These instructions make one sock. Repeat for the second sock of the pair.
• Cuff-down means you can slip the sock on to check length before the toe.
• Join to work in the round carefully — do not twist the cast-on.
• Beginning of round sits at the center back of the leg (center of the heel later).
• Slip-stitch heel flap is denser and wears longer than plain stockinette.
• When picking up gusset stitches, picking up through the back loop twists them and closes gaps.
• Block lightly; do not stretch the cuff.

How to Hold the Stitches

Magic loop (recommended): After the cast-on, split the stitches in half on the circular needle: 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts on each side. The cable loop sits at each side of the sock. Front half = instep later; back half = heel later.

3 DPNs (plus 1 working needle): Divide as 12/12/12 (16/12/12, 16/16/12, 16/16/16, 20/16/16). Each group is a multiple of 4, so k2p2 rib meets cleanly at the needle joins. The working needle is the fourth needle.

Sock

Cuff

With MC, using a long-tail cast-on (stretchy), CO 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a unique marker for beginning of round.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of rnd.

Work rib until cuff measures 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2)" [4 (4, 5, 5, 5) cm], about 11 (11, 15, 15, 15) rounds.

Mouth and Gums

Optional pink mouth: Join Mouth Pink. Knit 2 rounds. Cut pink.

Join CC (white). Knit 4 rounds. These are the shark’s gums.

Cut CC, leaving a 12" (30 cm) tail for weaving. Return to MC.

Teeth are embroidered after the sock is knit so the stitch count never changes and you can place them evenly. (See Finishing.)

Leg

With MC, knit every round (St st) until the piece measures 5 (5.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5)" [12.5 (14, 16.5, 18, 19) cm] from the cast-on edge, including the cuff.

Try the tube on. The cast-on edge should sit comfortably on the lower calf or at the ankle, wherever you want the shark’s mouth. Add or subtract leg rounds now; the heel begins in the next section.

Heel Flap

The heel is worked flat, back and forth, on half the stitches. The other half wait on a spare needle/cable and become the instep.

Set-up: Place 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts on hold for the instep. Work the heel flap on the remaining 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts.

Row 1 (RS): *Sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, purl to end.

Repeat Rows 1–2 until the flap has 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) rows total, ending after a WS (purl) row. You will see 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) chain-like slipped stitches along each side of the flap — those are your pickup points.

The flap should look roughly square.

Heel Turn

Short rows shape the cup of the heel. You will see a small gap each time you turn; later rows work to 1 stitch before that gap, decrease across it, and turn again.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k 10 (11, 12, 13, 14), ssk, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3–4 until all heel stitches have been worked. If only 1 stitch remains unworked on a side, work ssk (RS) or p2tog (WS) without the extra k1/p1 after it.

Stitches remaining on the heel: 12 (12, 14, 14, 16) sts.
(Child: 18 − 6 decreases = 12 ✓ · Small: 20 − 8 = 12 ✓ · Medium: 22 − 8 = 14 ✓ · Large: 24 − 10 = 14 ✓ · XL: 26 − 10 = 16 ✓)

End after a WS row. RS is facing for the gusset.

Gusset

Resume working in the round. You will pick up stitches along both sides of the heel flap, then decrease the extras away.

Pickup round:

1. Knit across the 12 (12, 14, 14, 16) heel sts.
2. Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts along the left side of the flap (1 st in each slipped chain), working them tbl. Pick up 1 extra st in the corner if you see a hole, and decrease it away on the next round.
3. Place a marker. Knit across the 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) instep sts. Place a marker.
4. Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts along the right side of the flap tbl (plus a corner st if needed).
5. Knit any remaining heel sts to the center back. This is the new beginning of round.

Stitch count after pickup:
12 + 9 + 18 + 9 = 48 (12 + 10 + 20 + 10 = 52, 14 + 11 + 22 + 11 = 58, 14 + 12 + 24 + 12 = 62, 16 + 13 + 26 + 13 = 68) sts ✓

Gusset decrease round: Knit to 3 sts before the first instep marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, knit instep to next marker, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round. (2 sts decreased)

Plain round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts remain.
(48 − 12 = 36 after 6 decrease rounds ✓ · 52 − 12 = 40 after 6 ✓ · 58 − 14 = 44 after 7 ✓ · 62 − 14 = 48 after 7 ✓ · 68 − 16 = 52 after 8 ✓)

Remove the instep markers if you like; keep the beginning-of-round marker.

Foot

Knit every round on 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts until the foot measures 1.75 (2, 2, 2.25, 2.25)" [4.5 (5, 5, 5.5, 5.5) cm] less than the desired finished length, measured from the back of the heel.

Try the sock on. The remaining fabric will become the toe, which is about that length. Typical stopping points before the toe:

• Child: when the sock reaches the base of the little toe
• Adults: same — fabric should land at the base of the toes, not cover them yet

Toe

Rearrange stitches so the instep and sole each have 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts. Place a marker between instep and sole on each side if they are not already split that way (magic loop is already split).

Decrease round: *K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the side marker, k2tog, k1; repeat from * once more. (4 sts decreased)

Plain round: Knit.

Work these 2 rounds until 20 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts remain, then work decrease rounds only (no plain rounds) until 8 sts remain (4 instep, 4 sole).

Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30 cm) tail. Graft the 4 instep sts to the 4 sole sts with Kitchener stitch (below).

Kitchener Stitch (graft the toe)

Hold the two needles parallel, wrong sides together, 4 sts on each. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.

Set-up (once only): Front needle — go through first st purlwise, leave st on. Back needle — go through first st knitwise, leave st on.

Then repeat this 4-step rhythm until 1 st remains on each needle:

1. Front: go through first st knitwise, slip it off.
2. Front: go through next st purlwise, leave it on.
3. Back: go through first st purlwise, slip it off.
4. Back: go through next st knitwise, leave it on.

Last 2 sts: Front knitwise and off; Back purlwise and off. Tug gently so the graft matches the surrounding stitches. Weave in the tail on the inside.

Shark Features

Work these on both socks of the pair.

Dorsal Fin (make 2 — one per sock)

Garter stitch (knit every row) so the fin does not curl. Use MC.

CO 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts.

Every row: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat until 3 sts remain.

Next row: K3tog. Fasten off, leaving a 12" (30 cm) tail.

The cast-on edge is the base of the fin (about 1.5–2.25" wide). The decreases form the point.

Optional 3-D fin: Knit a second identical triangle, wrong sides together, mattress-stitch the two decrease edges, add a pinch of stuffing, and close the base.

Place the fin: Lay the sock flat, instep up. Pin the fin’s base to the center of the instep, starting about 1" (2.5 cm) after the gusset (toward the toe) so the point aims at the cuff (the shark’s head is the mouth). Sew the base firmly with MC. The fin should stand up.

Optional Pectoral Fins (make 4 — two per sock)

With MC, CO 6 sts. Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog, every row until 2 sts remain. K2tog, fasten off. Sew one to each side of the foot, just below the gusset line, bases parallel to the sole.

Teeth

With CC and a tapestry needle, embroider a ring of triangular teeth along the lower edge of the white gum band, pointing down the leg (toward the foot).

Each tooth: about ½" (1.25 cm) wide at the gums and ½–¾" (1.25–2 cm) tall. Use satin stitch or stacked V’s (bring the needle up at the gum line, down at the point, up at the other side of the base, and fill). Space them evenly — about 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) teeth around. Do not pull so tight that the cuff puckers.

Eyes (make 2 per sock)

Place on the sides of the leg, about ¾–1" (2–2.5 cm) below the gum band, slightly toward the front of the leg so they are visible when worn.

Embroidery (required for children): With white, stitch a small oval or circle about ½" (1.25 cm) tall. With black, add a pupil (French knot or small satin-stitch circle). A tiny white highlight stitch makes them look alive.

Buttons (adults only): Sew a white button with a black button or bead on top, or a single dark button. Anchor through both sock layers if the fabric is loose, but do not catch the opposite side of the tube.

Gills

With black (or a darker gray), embroider 3 short curved lines on each side of the leg, just behind and below the eye, about ½–¾" (1.25–2 cm) long, stacked ¼" (6 mm) apart. They should sweep backward, away from the mouth.

Finishing

Weave in all ends on the wrong side. Do not cut tails shorter than 1" until they have been woven through several stitches.

Wet-block or steam-block the socks flat, pinning the fins upright. Do not stretch the ribbed cuff. Let dry completely.

Wear as a pair. The sharks eat legs. That is their job.