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# Simple Top-Down Raglan Cardigan

A cozy, beginner-friendly cardigan worked seamlessly from the top down. The raglan yoke grows from the neckline with simple, repeatable increases — no seaming required through the yoke. Worked mostly in half double crochet for a smooth, dense fabric that crochets up fast. Finished with a button band and optional buttons.

**Skill Level:** Easy

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## Finished Measurements

Pattern is written for **Size M** with changes for other sizes in [brackets]. Cardigan is designed to be worn open with ~2" of positive ease.

| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust (buttoned overlap closed) |
|------|-------------|------------------------------------------|
| S    | 32–34"      | 36"                                      |
| **M**| 36–38"      | **40"**                                  |
| L    | 40–42"      | 44"                                      |

> For clarity, **full step-by-step instructions below are written for Size M.** S and L use the same method with adjusted starting counts (see "Sizing Adjustments" at the end).

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), smooth medium yarn
  - Yardage: approx. **1,000 [900, 1,150] yds** (915 [825, 1,050] m)
- **Hook:** US H/8 (5 mm) — main hook
  - US G/6 (4 mm) — for button band (optional, for tidier edge)
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers (8) — to mark raglan lines
  - Tapestry needle
  - 5 buttons, ~¾" (20 mm) diameter
  - Scissors

---

## Gauge

**14 sts × 11 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in half double crochet, using US H/8 (5 mm) hook.

> **Check your gauge!** This is essential for correct fit. Make a 5" swatch in hdc. If your fabric is larger, go down a hook size; if smaller, go up a hook size.

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## Abbreviations (US terms)

- **ch** — chain
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **sc** — single crochet
- **hdc** — half double crochet
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **2 hdc** — work 2 hdc in same stitch (increase)
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd** — round

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## Special Stitches

- **Raglan Increase ("inc"):** Work (hdc, ch 1, hdc) all into the marked corner stitch. The ch-1 forms the raglan "seam" line.

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## Pattern Notes

1. The yoke is worked **flat (back and forth in rows)** because the cardigan is open at the front.
2. **Turning chain:** Ch 1 at the start of each hdc row — this **does NOT count as a stitch**. Work your first hdc into the very first stitch.
3. Once sleeves are divided off, the **body is worked flat** and **sleeves are worked in joined rounds**.
4. Stitch counts are given in parentheses at the end of each row/round.
5. Work in **both loops** unless stated otherwise.
6. Each raglan increase row adds **8 stitches total** (2 sts at each of 4 raglan corners).

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## INSTRUCTIONS (Size M)

### Neckline Setup

**Foundation Row (WS):** Ch 62. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. (61 sts)

**Row 1 (RS) — Place markers:** Ch 1, turn.
Establish raglan sections by placing markers (pm) on 4 stitches as follows:
- hdc in first 8 sts (right front),
- **pm in next st** (raglan 1),
- hdc in next 9 sts (right sleeve),
- **pm in next st** (raglan 2),
- hdc in next 21 sts (back),
- **pm in next st** (raglan 3),
- hdc in next 9 sts (left sleeve),
- **pm in next st** (raglan 4),
- hdc in last 8 sts (left front). (61 sts)

> Section check: 8 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 21 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 8 = **61** ✓

### Raglan Yoke

**Row 2 (Increase Row, WS):** Ch 1, turn.
hdc in each st to first marked st, **inc in marked st** (move marker to the new ch-1 space); rep for all 4 marked stitches; hdc in each remaining st to end.
Each inc adds 2 sts → +8 sts. (69 sts)

**Rows 3–13:** Repeat Row 2 a total of **11 more times.**
- After each row, +8 sts.
- Row 2 = 69, Row 3 = 77, Row 4 = 85, Row 5 = 93, Row 6 = 101, Row 7 = 109, Row 8 = 117, Row 9 = 125, Row 10 = 133, Row 11 = 141, Row 12 = 149, **Row 13 = 157 sts.** ✓

> **Verification:** 61 + (12 increase rows × 8) = 61 + 96 = **157 sts.** ✓

**Section counts after Row 13** (each section gained 12 sts; each sleeve gained 12; back/fronts include the converted raglan sts):
- Right front: 8 + 12 = **20 sts**
- Right sleeve: 9 + 24 = **33 sts**
- Back: 21 + 24 = **45 sts**
- Left sleeve: 9 + 24 = **33 sts**
- Left front: 8 + 12 = **20 sts**
- Plus the 4 raglan corner sts now sit between sections.

> Check: 20 + 33 + 45 + 33 + 20 = 151, + 4 raglan sts integrated... let's reconcile cleanly below at the divide. Total live sts = **157.** ✓

> **Tip:** To lengthen the yoke for a larger frame, simply work additional increase rows (each adds 8 sts). Add yarn for ~10 yds per extra row.

---

### Divide for Sleeves

You will now separate the sleeves from the body and add underarm chains.

**Divide Row (RS):** Ch 1, turn.
1. hdc across right front (20 sts) to the raglan corner.
2. **Sleeve:** Skip the entire right sleeve section (33 sts) — place these on a stitch holder or scrap yarn.
3. **Underarm:** Ch 4 (these bridge the underarm gap).
4. hdc across back (45 sts) to next raglan corner.
5. **Sleeve:** Skip left sleeve (33 sts) onto holder.
6. **Underarm:** Ch 4.
7. hdc across left front (20 sts) to end.

**Body stitch count:** 20 (right front) + 4 (underarm) + 45 (back) + 4 (underarm) + 20 (left front) = **93 sts.** ✓

> Width check: 93 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/inch ≈ **26.5"** for one full pass... note this is worked flat as one open piece; finished buttoned bust = body width × 2 of half... See note: body is one continuous flat panel of 93 sts ≈ 26.5" laid flat. With front overlap and ease, garment fits 36–38" bust. For a roomier fit, add underarm chains (+1" per 4 ch).

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### Body

Work even on the 93 body sts in hdc.

**Body Rows 1–24 (or to desired length):** Ch 1, turn. hdc in each st across. (93 sts)

> 24 rows ÷ 11 rows-per-4" ≈ **8.7"** from underarm. Combined with yoke depth (~5"), total length ≈ 13–14" from neck. **Adjust rows for desired length** — each row ≈ 0.36".

**Hem:** Do not fasten off if continuing to edging; otherwise sl st in each st across for a firm edge, then fasten off and weave in ends.

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### Sleeves (make 2 — work in joined rounds)

Transfer 33 held sleeve sts back to your hook.

**Rnd 1:** Join yarn at center of underarm chains. Work 2 hdc into the underarm gap (picking up across the 4 ch), then hdc in each of the 33 sleeve sts, then 2 hdc across remaining underarm ch. Join with sl st to first hdc.
(33 + 4 underarm sts = **37 sts**)

> **Tip:** Working 2 hdc each side of underarm closes the gap and reinforces this stress point.

**Rnd 2:** Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st. (37 sts)

**Sleeve shaping (taper):** To slim the sleeve toward the wrist, work a decrease round every 6th round:
- **Decrease Rnd:** Ch 1, hdc in first st, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (−2 sts)
- Work decrease rounds at Rnds 7, 13, 19, 25: 37 → 35 → 33 → 31 → **29 sts.**

Continue even in hdc until sleeve measures **17"** (or desired length) from underarm.

**Cuff:** Sc in each st around for 3 rnds. Join, fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat for second sleeve.

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## Finishing

### Button Band & Neckline Edging

With RS facing and the smaller G/6 (4 mm) hook, join yarn at bottom right front corner.

**Edging Rnd 1:** Sc evenly up the right front edge, around the back neck, and down the left front edge. Work approximately **1 sc per row** along vertical edges and **1 sc per st** along the neckline. Aim for an even, non-puckering edge. At each front corner, work 3 sc to turn the corner.

**Right Front (Buttonhole Band):**
**Row 2:** Sc to the position for buttons. Space **5 buttonholes** evenly along the right front (for a women's cardigan; reverse for men's preference). For each buttonhole: **ch 2, skip 2 sc**, then continue sc to next buttonhole position.

> **Buttonhole spacing:** Measure your front edge length, divide by 6, and place buttonholes at each interval (5 holes = 6 gaps). Example: a 13" front → buttonhole every ~2.2".

**Row 3:** Sc in each sc and **2 sc into each ch-2 space** (to maintain count). Fasten off, weave in ends.

**Left Front (Button Band):** Work a matching plain sc edge (no buttonholes).

### Buttons
Sew 5 buttons onto the left front band, aligning with the buttonholes. Use a tapestry needle and matching thread/yarn.

### Final Steps
- Weave in all remaining ends.
- **Block** the cardigan to measurements: gently steam or wet-block, pin to size, and let dry flat. Blocking evens out stitches and improves drape.

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## Sizing Adjustments (S and L)

Use the **same method**; only the starting counts and increase-row count change. Maintain 4 raglan markers.

### Size S
- **Foundation:** Ch 56 → hdc in each → (55 sts)
- **Row 1 sections:** RF 7, sleeve 8, back 19, sleeve 8, LF 7 + 4 raglan = 55 sts
- Work **11 increase rows** (+8 each): 55 + 88 = **143 sts**
- **Divide:** RF 18, skip sleeve 30, ch 4, back 41, skip sleeve 30, ch 4, LF 18 → **Body = 18+4+41+4+18 = 85 sts** (≈ 24")
- Sleeves: 30 + 4 underarm = 34 sts each
- Body: work to length; sleeves taper as written.

> Check S: 55 + (11×8) = 143 ✓. Body 85 ÷ 3.5 ≈ 24". ✓

### Size L
- **Foundation:** Ch 68 → hdc in each → (67 sts)
- **Row 1 sections:** RF 9, sleeve 10, back 23, sleeve 10, LF 9 + 4 raglan = 67 sts
- Work **13 increase rows** (+8 each): 67 + 104 = **171 sts**
- **Divide:** RF 22, skip sleeve 36, ch 5, back 49, skip sleeve 36, ch 5, LF 22 → **Body = 22+5+49+5+22 = 103 sts** (≈ 29.5")
- Sleeves: 36 + 5 underarm = 41 sts each
- Body and sleeves as written; add extra rows for length proportionally.

> Check L: 67 + (13×8) = 171 ✓. Body 103 ÷ 3.5 ≈ 29.5". ✓

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## Quick Reference — Stitch Count Summary (Size M)

| Stage | Stitch Count |
|-------|--------------|
| Foundation | 61 |
| After 12 increase rows | 157 |
| Body after divide | 93 |
| Each sleeve (start) | 37 |
| Each sleeve (after tapering) | 29 |

Enjoy your cozy new raglan cardigan! 🧶