purlJam

Sleeveless Turtleneck Pullover
Advanced DK-weight seamless top-down raglan vest with foldable ribbed turtleneck

Sizes
XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit bust 81 (91, 101, 112, 122) cm (32 (36, 40, 44, 48) in)
Finished bust circumference 91 (100, 111, 122, 133) cm (36 (39½, 43¾, 48, 52¼) in)
Finished length (centre back neck to hem) 58 (60, 62, 64, 66) cm (22¾ (23½, 24½, 25¼, 26) in)
Armhole depth 22 (24, 26, 27, 30) cm (8¾ (9½, 10¼, 10¾, 11¾) in)

Shown in size S with approx 9 cm positive ease.

Yarn
DK-weight wool or wool-blend yarn (approx 120 m / 50 g)
1000 (1100, 1300, 1500, 1700) m (1090 (1200, 1420, 1640, 1860) yd)
Example: 9 (10, 11, 13, 15) × 50 g balls

Needles
3.5 mm circular needle, 40 cm long (for collar and armhole edgings)
4 mm circular needle, 60–80 cm long (for yoke and body)
3.5 mm and 4 mm DPNs or long circular for magic loop (optional, armhole finishing)
Or size required to obtain tension; use needles 0.5–1 mm smaller for ribbing.

Notions
Stitch markers (8)
Waste yarn or stitch holders
Tapestry needle
Blocking mats and pins

Tension
22 sts and 30 rows/rounds to 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles.
Check tension carefully; adjust needle size if necessary. (US gauge equivalent given for reference only.)

Abbreviations (UK terminology)
beg = beginning
BO = bind off (cast off)
CO = cast on
cont = continue
dec = decrease
inc = increase
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together
LH = left hand
m = marker
m1L = make 1 left (lift strand between sts from front to back, k through back loop)
m1R = make 1 right (lift strand between sts from back to front, k through front loop)
p = purl
pm = place marker
p2tog = purl 2 together
rem = remain(ing)
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sm = slip marker
ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, insert LH needle into fronts and k2tog)
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stocking stitch (knit every rnd)
w&t = wrap and turn
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over

Pattern Notes

• Worked entirely in the round from the top down.
• Raglan construction creates the armhole openings; sleeve stitches are bound off and later finished with ribbed edgings.
• Turtleneck is worked first on smaller needles in 2×2 rib and is long enough to wear folded or upright.
• Short-row shaping raises the back neck for improved fit (advanced technique).
• All stitch counts are given for XS (S, M, L, XL).
• Inline validation confirms key totals.
• Use stretchy cast-on (e.g. long-tail or alternate cable) and bind-off (e.g. Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy or sewn) for collar and armholes.

Special Techniques
German short rows (or w&t): on RS knit to turning point, turn, slip 1 wyif, pull yarn over needle to create double st; on WS purl to turning point, turn, slip 1 wyib, pull yarn over. Resolve double sts by knitting/purling both legs together when you next encounter them.

COLLAR
With 3.5 mm circular needle and stretchy method, CO 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts. Pm for beg of rnd and join, being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Cont in 2×2 rib until collar measures 18 (18, 19, 19, 20) cm from CO edge (approx 54–60 rnds).
Change to 4 mm circular needle.

Set-up for raglan
Next rnd (inc set-up):
K26 (30, 34, 40, 44) for back, pm,
k14 (12, 10, 6, 4) for right sleeve, pm,
k26 (30, 34, 40, 44) for front, pm,
k14 (12, 10, 6, 4) for left sleeve, pm for new beg-of-rnd (this m sits between left sleeve and back).
(80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts confirmed: 26+14+26+14 = 80 etc. ✓)

Short-row back-neck shaping (optional but recommended)
Short Row 1 (RS): K to 1 st before right-sleeve m, w&t.
Short Row 2 (WS): P to 1 st before left-sleeve m, w&t.
Short Row 3: K to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Short Row 4: P to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Short Row 5: K to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Short Row 6: P to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Next rnd: Knit all the way around, resolving wraps by knitting them together with their sts. Back neck is now raised.

YOKE
Raglan Inc Rnd:
*K to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end.
(8 sts increased)

Plain Rnd: Knit.

Rep last 2 rnds 32 (35, 38, 40, 44) more times
(33 (36, 39, 41, 45) inc rnds total).

Stitch count check after all increases:
Back 92 (102, 112, 122, 134)
Right sleeve 80 (84, 88, 88, 94)
Front 92 (102, 112, 122, 134)
Left sleeve 80 (84, 88, 88, 94)
Total 344 (372, 400, 420, 456) sts
(Validation: each section = start + 2 × inc_rounds → e.g. XS back 26 + 2×33 = 92 ✓; sleeve 14 + 66 = 80 ✓; total start 80 + 8×33 = 344 ✓)

Yoke should measure approx 22 (24, 26, 27, 30) cm from base of collar. If shorter, work extra plain rnds; if longer, you may work some final increases every rnd instead of every other.

SEPARATE BODY AND ARMHOLES
Next rnd:
K92 (102, 112, 122, 134) back sts,
place next 80 (84, 88, 88, 94) right-sleeve sts on waste yarn,
using backward-loop method CO 8 (8, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, pm at centre of underarm for side,
k92 (102, 112, 122, 134) front sts,
place next 80 (84, 88, 88, 94) left-sleeve sts on waste yarn,
CO 8 (8, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, pm at centre of underarm for side / new beg-of-rnd.

Body now has 200 (220, 244, 268, 292) sts
(Validation: 92+92+8+8 = 200; 102+102+8+8 = 220; 112+112+10+10 = 244; 122+122+12+12 = 268; 134+134+12+12 = 292 ✓)

BODY
Work even in st st (knit every rnd) until body measures 33 (34, 34, 35, 35) cm from underarm, or 5 cm less than desired total length.

Hem
Change to 3.5 mm needle.
Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Work 2×2 rib for 5 cm.
BO loosely in rib.

ARMHOLE EDGINGS
Return 80 (84, 88, 88, 94) held sleeve sts to 3.5 mm needle(s).
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at centre of underarm.
Pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts across first half of underarm CO,
knit across the 80 (84, 88, 88, 94) sleeve sts,
pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts across remaining underarm CO.
Total 88 (92, 98, 100, 106) sts. Pm for beg of rnd.

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end (or *k2, p2 if preferred and st count allows).
Work 1×1 (or 2×2) rib for 2.5–3 cm.
BO loosely in rib.

Rep for second armhole.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
Soak garment in lukewarm water with wool wash, gently squeeze out water, and lay flat to block to finished measurements.
Pay special attention to smoothing raglan lines and evening armhole edgings.
Allow to dry completely.
Optional: steam-press collar lightly if a softer fold is desired.

Wear notes
Fold turtleneck down for classic look or wear upright for extra warmth.
The sleeveless cut layers beautifully over shirts, turtlenecks or dresses.

© Pattern designed for personal use. Happy knitting!