Standing Sheep

Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

A sturdy four-legged sheep worked in continuous rounds of tight single crochet. Cream face, white body, charcoal hooves, and a small loop-stitch wool patch. Designed to stand on a flat surface.

Skill level: Intermediate
Finished size: About 7 inches (18 cm) tall and 5.5 inches (14 cm) long, using worsted weight yarn and a US E-4 (3.5 mm) hook.

Materials

• Worsted weight (4) yarn
  • Color A (cream — head, snout): 55 yd (50 m)
  • Color B (white — body, outer ears, tail, wool patch): 70 yd (64 m)
  • Color C (charcoal gray — legs/hooves): 45 yd (41 m)
  • Color D (soft pink — inner ears, nose): 5 yd (5 m)
  • Scrap dark brown or black for mouth embroidery
• US E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook (one size smaller than the yarn label for a dense fabric)
• 9 mm safety eyes (1 pair)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Straight pins
• Scissors
• Optional: 4 plastic-canvas or cardboard circles, ¾ inch (2 cm) across, for hoof bases

Gauge

5 sc and 5 rnds = 1 inch (2.5 cm) in single crochet, worked tightly in the round.

Gauge is for size and a stuffing-proof fabric. If the fabric shows gaps, go down a hook size. Do not stuff until the fabric is dense.

Abbreviations (US)

Notes

• Work in a continuous spiral unless stated. Do not join or turn. Mark the first stitch of every round and move the marker up.
• Magic ring: 6 sc into an adjustable ring; pull the tail to close the hole.
• Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook under the front loop only of the next 2 stitches, yo, pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through both loops.
• Loop stitch (lpst): Insert hook in the next stitch. Wrap the yarn from back to front around the index finger of your yarn hand to make a ½ inch (1.3 cm) loop. Yo and pull through the stitch (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through both loops. Keep loop length even.
• Stuff as you go. Body and legs: very firm. Snout and tail: light. Ears: do not stuff.
• Standing stability: All four legs must be the same length. Pin them with the sheep standing on a table and check that every hoof touches before you sew. A slight outward splay helps.
• Parenthetical stitch math confirms the count at the end of the round.

Head

With Color A (cream).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12] (6 increases → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18] (6 increases → 12 + 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times. [24] (6 increases → 18 + 6 = 24 ✓)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. [30] (6 increases → 24 + 6 = 30 ✓)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times. [36] (6 increases → 30 + 6 = 36 ✓)
Rnds 7–13: sc in each st around. [36] (7 even rounds)

Place 9 mm safety eyes between Rnds 10 and 11, 7 stitches apart, centered on the face. Do not attach the washers until the snout position looks right (you will sew the snout on after the head is closed, so leave enough space below the eyes). Lock the washers when you are happy.

Rnd 14: (4 sc, dec) 6 times. [30] (6 decreases → 36 − 6 = 30 ✓)
Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec) 6 times. [24] (6 decreases → 30 − 6 = 24 ✓)
Stuff the head firmly, shaping a smooth sphere.
Rnd 16: (2 sc, dec) 6 times. [18] (6 decreases → 24 − 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 17: (sc, dec) 6 times. [12] (6 decreases → 18 − 6 = 12 ✓)
Add any remaining stuffing.
Rnd 18: dec 6 times. [6] (6 decreases → 12 − 6 = 6 ✓)

FO, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Weave in.

Snout

With Color A (cream).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12] (6 increases → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) 3 times. [15] (3 increases → 12 + 3 = 15 ✓)
Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around. [15]

FO, leaving a 14 inch (36 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff lightly so the snout stays a rounded oval, not a ball.

Ears (make 2)

With Color B (white).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) 3 times. [9] (3 increases → 6 + 3 = 9 ✓)
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) 3 times. [12] (3 increases → 9 + 3 = 12 ✓)
Rnds 4–6: sc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 7: (2 sc, dec) 3 times. [9] (3 decreases → 12 − 3 = 9 ✓)

FO, leaving a 10 inch (25 cm) tail. Do not stuff. Flatten each ear into a rounded petal.

Inner Ears (make 2)

With Color D (pink), worked in a short row.

Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. [4 sts]

FO, leaving a 8 inch (20 cm) tail. The piece is a small pointed oval. Sew one to the lower inside of each flattened ear with Color D, leaving a white border showing around the pink.

Body

With Color B (white).
The magic ring is the rear. Increases build the rump; even rounds are the belly (leg zone); decreases form the neck/chest where the head is sewn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12] (6 increases → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18] (6 increases → 12 + 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times. [24] (6 increases → 18 + 6 = 24 ✓)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. [30] (6 increases → 24 + 6 = 30 ✓)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times. [36] (6 increases → 30 + 6 = 36 ✓)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) 6 times. [42] (6 increases → 36 + 6 = 42 ✓)
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) 6 times. [48] (6 increases → 42 + 6 = 48 ✓)
Rnds 9–18: sc in each st around. [48] (10 even rounds — this is the belly)
Rnd 19: (6 sc, dec) 6 times. [42] (6 decreases → 48 − 6 = 42 ✓)
Rnd 20: sc in each st around. [42]
Rnd 21: (5 sc, dec) 6 times. [36] (6 decreases → 42 − 6 = 36 ✓)
Rnd 22: sc in each st around. [36]
Rnd 23: (4 sc, dec) 6 times. [30] (6 decreases → 36 − 6 = 30 ✓)
Rnd 24: (3 sc, dec) 6 times. [24] (6 decreases → 30 − 6 = 24 ✓)
Stuff the body very firmly, packing extra fill into the belly so the oval holds its shape and will sit on the legs without sagging.
Rnd 25: (2 sc, dec) 6 times. [18] (6 decreases → 24 − 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 26: (sc, dec) 6 times. [12] (6 decreases → 18 − 6 = 12 ✓)
Add remaining stuffing.
Rnd 27: dec 6 times. [6] (6 decreases → 12 − 6 = 6 ✓)

FO, close the remaining hole as for the head, and weave in. The closed decrease end is the neck.

Legs (make 4)

With Color C (charcoal).
Work all four legs identically so they stand even.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12] (6 increases → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18] (6 increases → 12 + 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: sc BLO in each st around. [18] (hoof ridge)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around. [18]
Rnd 6: (sc, dec) 6 times. [12] (6 decreases → 18 − 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnds 7–13: sc in each st around. [12] (7 even rounds — leg shaft)

Stuff the hoof very firmly. Optional: seat a ¾ inch (2 cm) plastic-canvas circle against the inside of Rnd 1 before filling the hoof, then stuff the shaft firmly to the top. Leave the last round open. FO, leaving an 18 inch (46 cm) tail for sewing.

Tail

With Color B (white).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) 3 times. [9] (3 increases → 6 + 3 = 9 ✓)
Rnds 3–4: sc in each st around. [9]
Rnd 5: (sc, dec) 3 times. [6] (3 decreases → 9 − 3 = 6 ✓)

FO, leaving a 10 inch (25 cm) tail. Stuff lightly. Close the remaining 6 sts if you prefer a closed tip, or leave them to sew flat against the rump.

Wool Patch (top of head)

With Color B (white).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12] (6 increases → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18] (6 increases → 12 + 6 = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: lpst in each st around. [18]

FO, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail. Do not stuff. The loops face out and sit between the ears like a woolly forelock.

Optional woolly body: For a fluffier coat, work lpst instead of sc on Body Rnds 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17 only (alternate even rounds). Keep Rnds 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18 in sc so the fabric stays firm enough to stand.

Assembly

Use matching yarn and a yarn needle. Pin every piece first. Ladder stitch (mattress stitch) gives the cleanest seam; whip stitch is fine on the underside of the legs.

1. Snout
Center the snout on the lower face, bottom edge of the snout sitting over Head Rnds 13–15, top edge just under the safety eyes (about 2 sts below). Sew around, adding a pinch of stuffing before closing if the oval flattened.

2. Face embroidery
With Color D, satin-stitch a small upside-down triangle or oval nose on the upper snout. With dark brown or black, stitch a short vertical line down from the nose and a tiny curved smile. Pull stitches snug but not so tight they pucker the snout.

3. Ears and wool patch
Sew ears to the sides of the head over Rnds 5–8, about 10–11 sts apart at the top, angled slightly outward and a little back. They should flop, not stand straight up. Sew the wool patch on the crown between the ears, loops facing out.

4. Head to body
The body decrease end is the neck. Pin the head onto the front-top of the body so the snout points forward and slightly down (a typical sheep tilt). The head should overlap the chest rather than sit on a stick-neck. Add extra stuffing through the neck join if the junction looks thin, then ladder-stitch all the way around twice for strength.

5. Legs — standing setup (do this on a table)
Stand the stuffed body on the table. Pin the four open leg tops to the underside of the even-round belly (Body Rnds 9–18):

• Hind legs: under the rear third of the body, about 4–5 sts apart, just forward of the magic-ring rump.
• Front legs: under the front third, about 4–5 sts apart, behind the chest/neck join.
• Match front-to-back spacing so the rectangle of hooves is even.
• Angle each leg a few degrees outward.

Set the sheep on its hooves. All four must touch the table. Shorten a pin position, not a leg, if one corner floats. When the stance is square, sew each leg with the long Color C tail, stitching around the 12 open stitches and taking extra passes through the body wall. Weave in securely. The toy should stand on its own.

6. Tail
Sew to the rear (magic-ring end of the body), slightly above the hind-leg line, pointing down and a little out.

Finishing

• Weave in every remaining tail on the inside or under a seam.
• Steam is not needed; shaping comes from stuffing. Smooth lumps by rolling the body in your palms.
• Check the stance again. If the sheep leans, add a few hidden stitches to pull a high leg tighter to the belly, or push extra fiberfill into the low side through a seam before closing it.
• Tug each ear, leg, and the head. Restitch any joint that gives.

Safety: This pattern uses safety eyes and sewn-on parts. For children under 3 years, embroider the eyes with yarn instead of using safety eyes, and double-sew every limb. Do not use buttons. Test that nothing pulls off.

Size notes

Worsted + US E-4 (3.5 mm), tight gauge, as written: ~7 inches (18 cm) tall.
DK weight + US D-3 (3.25 mm): ~5.5 inches (14 cm) tall (same stitch counts).
Bulky weight + US G-6 (4.0 mm): ~10 inches (25 cm) tall.

Keep the same counts; changing yarn and hook is enough. Do not loosen the gauge or stuffing will show and the sheep will not stand.