Starlight Unicorn Pullover

A cozy drop-shoulder pullover in worsted-weight yarn, sized for children through adults. The sweater is worked flat in simple stockinette with 1×1 rib edges and a rainbow stripe at the hems and cuffs. After blocking, a unicorn (gold horn, rainbow mane, outlined head) is added with duplicate stitch — no colorwork while you knit. If you can knit, purl, increase, decrease, and sew a seam, you can make this.

Sizes

4 (6, 8, 10, XS, S, M, L)

To fit chest: 23 (25, 27, 29, 32–34, 36–38, 40–42, 44–46)" (58.5 [63.5, 68.5, 73.5, 81.5–86.5, 91.5–96.5, 101.5–106.5, 112–117] cm)

Finished chest: 26¾ (28½, 30¼, 32, 36½, 40, 44½, 48)" (68 [72.5, 77, 81.5, 92.5, 101.5, 113, 122] cm)

Finished length (shoulder to hem): 15 (16½, 18, 19½, 23, 24, 25, 26)" (38 [42, 45.5, 49.5, 58.5, 61, 63.5, 66] cm)

Sleeve length to underarm: 10½ (11½, 12½, 13½, 17, 17½, 18, 18½)" (26.5 [29, 32, 34.5, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47] cm)

Shown with about 3–4" (7.5–10 cm) of positive ease. Choose the size closest to your actual chest plus ease. Instructions are written for size 4, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC 4)

• MC (Cream or White): 500 (600, 700, 800, 1100, 1250, 1400, 1550) yd / 455 (550, 640, 730, 1005, 1145, 1280, 1420) m
  About 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7) skeins at 220 yd / 100 g
• A Pink: 40 (40, 45, 45, 50, 50, 55, 55) yd / 37 (37, 41, 41, 46, 46, 50, 50) m
• B Peach: 25 (25, 30, 30, 35, 35, 40, 40) yd / 23 (23, 27, 27, 32, 32, 37, 37) m
• C Gold / Yellow: 30 (30, 35, 35, 40, 40, 45, 45) yd / 27 (27, 32, 32, 37, 37, 41, 41) m
• D Mint: 25 (25, 30, 30, 35, 35, 40, 40) yd / 23 (23, 27, 27, 32, 32, 37, 37) m
• E Lavender / Dusty Purple: 40 (40, 45, 45, 50, 50, 55, 55) yd / 37 (37, 41, 41, 46, 46, 50, 50) m
• F Black: 10 yd / 9 m (eye, nostril, smile)

Needles

• US 6 / 4 mm straight or circular needles (ribbing)
• US 8 / 5 mm straight or circular needles (stockinette)
• US 6 / 4 mm 16" (40 cm) circular needle, or double-pointed needles, for the neckband
  (A 24–32" circular used flat is fine for the body.)

Notions

• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• 4 locking stitch markers (armhole placement)
• Stitch holder or spare yarn
• Pins for seaming
• Optional: US 8 needle to bind off the neckband loosely

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles, after blocking.

A 4" gauge swatch is 18 sts × 24 rows. Work a swatch at least 6" square, wet-block it, and measure the center 4".

If you have too many stitches per 4", go up a needle size. If you have too few, go down a needle size. Gauge controls the finished chest measurement. At this gauge, 60 stitches = 13¼" (60 ÷ 18 × 4 = 13⅓" ✓).

Abbreviations (US)

Pattern Notes

• The pullover is worked flat, in pieces, then seamed. You never have to knit in the round except for the optional circular neckband.
• Stockinette flat: Knit on RS rows, purl on WS rows.
• 1×1 rib: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end. On even stitch counts this stays aligned on every row if you knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you.
• Selvedge: Knit the first and last stitch of every row in stockinette (no slipped-stitch edge). Mattress stitch likes a regular knit-stitch edge.
• Rainbow stripe sequence (used on body and sleeves, right after ribbing, on larger needles):
  2 rows A (pink), 2 rows B (peach), 2 rows C (gold), 2 rows D (mint), 2 rows E (lavender).
  10 rows = about 1¾". Cut colors between stripes; weave tails in later. Do not carry long floats.
• Increases: On a RS row, k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. That adds 2 stitches (one each side).
• Neck decreases: Always worked on RS rows, 1 stitch in from the neck edge, so the edge stays neat for picking up.
• Duplicate stitch is worked after the front is blocked and before seaming, while the piece is still flat.
• Bind off the neckband very loosely (use the larger needle if needed) so the sweater pulls over the head.

Back

With smaller needles (US 6 / 4 mm) and MC, CO 60 (64, 68, 72, 82, 90, 100, 108) sts.

Rib: Work 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; repeat from * to end) for 10 rows (about 1½" / 4 cm). End after a WS row.

Switch to larger needles (US 8 / 5 mm).

Rainbow: Work 10 rows St st in the rainbow stripe sequence (2 rows each A, B, C, D, E). Stitch count remains 60 (64, 68, 72, 82, 90, 100, 108) ✓.

Join MC. Continue in St st until piece measures 15 (16½, 18, 19½, 23, 24, 25, 26)" (38 [42, 45.5, 49.5, 58.5, 61, 63.5, 66] cm) from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Bind off for shoulders and neck (RS):
BO 19 (20, 22, 23, 26, 29, 33, 36) sts, knit until you have 22 (24, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts on the right needle after the bind-off, BO those center 22 (24, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts, BO remaining 19 (20, 22, 23, 26, 29, 33, 36) sts.

Check: 19 + 22 + 19 = 60 ✓ · 20 + 24 + 20 = 64 ✓ · 22 + 24 + 22 = 68 ✓ · 23 + 26 + 23 = 72 ✓ · 26 + 30 + 26 = 82 ✓ · 29 + 32 + 29 = 90 ✓ · 33 + 34 + 33 = 100 ✓ · 36 + 36 + 36 = 108 ✓.

Fasten off. Place a locking marker on each side edge 5 (5½, 6, 6½, 7½, 8, 8¾, 9½)" (12.5 [14, 15, 16.5, 19, 20.5, 22, 24] cm) down from the shoulder bind-off — these mark the armhole.

Front

Work as for Back through the ribbing and rainbow stripes, then continue in MC in St st until piece measures 13 (14½, 16, 17¼, 20¼, 21¼, 22, 23)" (33 [37, 40.5, 44, 51.5, 54, 56, 58.5] cm) from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

(This is total length minus neck depth of 2 [2, 2, 2¼, 2¾, 2¾, 3, 3]".)

Shape front neck

Next row (RS): Knit 25 (26, 28, 30, 34, 37, 42, 45) sts, BO center 10 (12, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts, knit to end.

Check: 25 + 10 + 25 = 60 ✓ · 26 + 12 + 26 = 64 ✓ · 28 + 12 + 28 = 68 ✓ · 30 + 12 + 30 = 72 ✓ · 34 + 14 + 34 = 82 ✓ · 37 + 16 + 37 = 90 ✓ · 42 + 16 + 42 = 100 ✓ · 45 + 18 + 45 = 108 ✓.

You now have 25 (26, 28, 30, 34, 37, 42, 45) sts on each side. Continue on the second group of stitches (left side of the piece as it faces you = wearer’s right front). Place the first group on a holder.

Wearer’s right front (sts just worked)

WS: Purl to end.

Neck decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end. 1 st decreased at neck edge.

Repeat the decrease row every RS row 5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) more times — 6 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) decrease rows total.

Stitches remaining: 25 − 6 = 19 ✓ · 26 − 6 = 20 ✓ · 28 − 6 = 22 ✓ · 30 − 7 = 23 ✓ · 34 − 8 = 26 ✓ · 37 − 8 = 29 ✓ · 42 − 9 = 33 ✓ · 45 − 9 = 36 ✓.

Work even in St st until front matches back length, ending after a WS row. BO remaining 19 (20, 22, 23, 26, 29, 33, 36) shoulder sts.

Wearer’s left front

With WS facing, rejoin MC to the held sts.

WS: Purl to end.

Neck decrease row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased at neck edge.

Repeat the decrease row every RS row 5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) more times — 6 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) decrease rows total.

Stitches remaining match the other shoulder: 19 (20, 22, 23, 26, 29, 33, 36) ✓.

Work even until front matches back length, ending after a WS row. BO remaining shoulder sts.

Mark armholes on the front side edges to match the back: 5 (5½, 6, 6½, 7½, 8, 8¾, 9½)" down from each shoulder.

Sleeves (make 2)

With smaller needles and MC, CO 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts.

Rib: Work 1×1 rib for 10 rows (about 1½"). End after a WS row.

Switch to larger needles.

Begin rainbow and shaping together.

Increase row (RS): K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 2 sts increased.

Work the 10-row rainbow sequence in St st, then continue with MC, and at the same time work extra increase rows as follows:

Work the Increase row every 6th (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 4th) row 8 (9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 19, 21) more times.

Total increase rows: 9 (10, 11, 12, 16, 17, 20, 22).
Stitches: 28 + 18 = 46 ✓ · 30 + 20 = 50 ✓ · 32 + 22 = 54 ✓ · 34 + 24 = 58 ✓ · 36 + 32 = 68 ✓ · 38 + 34 = 72 ✓ · 40 + 40 = 80 ✓ · 42 + 44 = 86 ✓.

Work even in St st (if any rows remain) until sleeve measures 10½ (11½, 12½, 13½, 17, 17½, 18, 18½)" (26.5 [29, 32, 34.5, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47] cm) from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

BO all 46 (50, 54, 58, 68, 72, 80, 86) sts knitwise on the RS. Fasten off.

Sleeve cap width: 46 ÷ 18 × 4 = 10¼" ✓ (half of this is the armhole depth of 5⅛", matching the 5" marker on size 4 within seaming ease). The same relationship holds for every size.

Unicorn Duplicate-Stitch Chart

Work this on the blocked Front, centered left-to-right, with the top of the horn about 1½–2" (4–5 cm) below the front neck bind-off. On size 4 the 21-st motif sits with 19 sts to one side and 20 to the other of a 60-st front (19 + 21 + 20 = 60 ✓). On larger sizes it remains a compact chest motif.

How to duplicate stitch: Thread a tapestry needle with a 18–24" strand. Bring the needle up at the base of a knit V, follow the right arm of that V, go under both legs of the stitch above, then down into the same base hole. Each embroidered stitch covers one knit stitch. Do not pull tight. Start and end by running the tail under several duplicate stitches on the WS.

Color key

Read the chart as the fabric appears: Row 1 is the bottom, stitch 1 is the right-hand edge of the motif as you look at the front. Work gold horn first, then outline, then mane, then features (easier to keep the face neat).

        Unicorn — 21 sts wide × 25 rows tall
        (Row 25 is the top of the horn)

        2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
    st  1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

  25    . . . . . . . . G G G . . . . . . . . . .
  24    . . . . . . . G G G G . . . . . . . . . .
  23    . . . . . . G G G G . . . . . . . . . . .
  22    . . . . . G G G . . . . O O . . . . . . .
  21    . . P P G G G . . . O O I I O . . . . . .
  20    . P P U P G . . . O . . I I . O . . . . .
  19    P P U U N . . . O . . . . . . . O . . . .
  18    P U U N N . . O . . . . . . . . . O . . .
  17    P U N N N . O . . . . . . . . . . . O . .
  16    P U N N . O . . . . . . . . B . . . O . .
  15    . P U N O . . . . . . . . B B B . . O . .
  14    . P U O . . . . . . . . . . B . . . O . .
  13    . P O . . . . . . . . . . . . . C C . O .
  12    . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . C C C . . O
  11    O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C . . . O
  10    O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B . O
   9    O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B . O .
   8    . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O O . . .
   7    . . O . . . . . . . . . . . O O . . . . .
   6    . . . O O . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . .
   5    . . . . . O O O O O O . . . . . . . . . .
   4    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   3    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   2    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   1    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rows 1–4 are empty on purpose so you can sit the motif a little higher or lower without redrawing. Start embroidering at Row 5.

Beginner tip: Photocopy or mark the chart and color the G / P / U / N / O / B / C / I squares with pencils before you stitch. Count the Front’s center stitch; the motif’s center is stitch 11 of the chart.

Optional extra (all sizes): scatter 3–5 tiny gold G stitches as stars around the unicorn, 4–8 stitches away from the outline.

Finishing

1. Weave and block
Weave in ends that will be trapped in seams; leave others until after seaming. Wet-block Back, Front, and Sleeves to the schematic measurements. Dry fully. Then work the unicorn in duplicate stitch on the Front.

2. Shoulder seams
With RS together (or RS facing you for mattress stitch), join Front to Back at each shoulder, matching the 19 (20, 22, 23, 26, 29, 33, 36) bound-off stitches. Use mattress stitch on the RS for a flat seam, or backstitch just inside the bind-off.

3. Neckband
With smaller 16" circular needle (or DPNs), MC, and RS facing, beginning at the left shoulder seam, pick up and knit:

• 9 (9, 9, 11, 12, 12, 14, 14) sts down the left front neck slope
• 10 (12, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts across the front bind-off
• 9 (9, 9, 11, 12, 12, 14, 14) sts up the right front neck slope
• 2 sts at the right shoulder seam
• 22 (24, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts across the back neck
• 2 sts at the left shoulder seam

Total: 54 (58, 58, 64, 72, 76, 82, 86) sts.

Check size 4: 9 + 10 + 9 + 2 + 22 + 2 = 54 ✓ (even, so 1×1 rib joins cleanly).
Size 6: 9 + 12 + 9 + 2 + 24 + 2 = 58 ✓.
Size 8: 9 + 12 + 9 + 2 + 24 + 2 = 58 ✓.
Size 10: 11 + 12 + 11 + 2 + 26 + 2 = 64 ✓.
XS: 12 + 14 + 12 + 2 + 30 + 2 = 72 ✓.
S: 12 + 16 + 12 + 2 + 32 + 2 = 76 ✓.
M: 14 + 16 + 14 + 2 + 34 + 2 = 82 ✓.
L: 14 + 18 + 14 + 2 + 36 + 2 = 86 ✓.

If you are 1 stitch off, increase or decrease that stitch on the first rib round so the count is even.

Place a marker for the beginning of the round. Work 1×1 rib (k1, p1) in the round for 8 rounds (about 1" / 2.5 cm). Bind off very loosely in rib with the larger needle.

Straight-needle option: Pick up the same stitches starting at a shoulder, work 1×1 rib back and forth for 8 rows, bind off loosely, and sew the short neckband seam.

4. Set in sleeves
Fold each sleeve in half and pin the center of the bind-off to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve corners to the armhole markers on Front and Back. The sleeve cap width matches the armhole opening:

46 sts ÷ 4.5 sts per inch = 10¼" sewn into a 5" + 5" armhole ✓ (size 4). Repeat the same check for your size using 50, 54, 58, 68, 72, 80, or 86 sts.

Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole with mattress stitch.

5. Side and sleeve seams
Starting at the hem, mattress-stitch the Front to the Back along each side, then continue down the sleeve (or sew the sleeve seam first, then the side — either order). Match the rainbow stripes so they line up at the side seams and along the sleeve undersides.

6. Final weave and press
Weave in all remaining ends. Steam-press seams lightly on the WS if needed. Do not flatten the ribbing.

Schematic (finished, blocked)

Widths from stitch counts at 4.5 sts/inch: 60 ÷ 4.5 = 13.33" ✓ · 64 ÷ 4.5 = 14.22" ✓ · 68 ÷ 4.5 = 15.11" ✓ · 72 ÷ 4.5 = 16" ✓ · 82 ÷ 4.5 = 18.22" ✓ · 90 ÷ 4.5 = 20" ✓ · 100 ÷ 4.5 = 22.22" ✓ · 108 ÷ 4.5 = 24" ✓.

Beginner Troubleshooting

• Chest too small/large: Recheck gauge. Every 1 st off in 4" changes chest by about 1½" at these stitch counts.
• Neck will not go over the head: The bind-off was too tight. Take out the neckband bind-off and bind off again with US 8, keeping the loops loose.
• Rainbow stripes do not match at the side seam: Count rows above the rib on Front and Back; they should be identical. A half-stitch jog is normal — mattress stitch hides it if you join corresponding rows.
• Duplicate stitch looks holey: You are pulling too tight. The embroidered V should sit on top of the knit V, not cinch it.
• Sleeve looks short: Length is measured from the cuff cast-on, including ribbing, to the bind-off. Drop-shoulder sleeves are meant to meet the body at a shallow armhole, not at the true underarm point of a set-in sleeve.

Wear with the unicorn on the front, rainbow at the hems, and as much glitter as you can stand.