purlJam

# Summer Breeze Tank Dress
### Lightweight Open-Fabric A-Line Dress for Bulky Machine

A flowing, breathable summer tank dress that takes advantage of an unexpected pairing: fine fingering-weight yarn on a bulky (6.5mm) machine, knit at loose tension on every-other-needle (EON) for an airy, lace-like open fabric. The A-line silhouette skims the body while the openwork keeps you cool. Perfect for layering over a slip or wearing as a beach cover-up.

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## Materials

- **Yarn**: Fingering weight (4-ply / sock weight), approx. 1,200–1,500 yds (1,100–1,370 m) for Size M. Recommended: cotton, linen, or cotton-linen blend for summer drape.
- **Machine**: Bulky gauge (6.5mm / 9mm) standard. Compatible with Brother KH-260/270, Silver Reed SK-150/155, LK-150 (with adjustments).
- **Tools**:
  - 2-prong and 3-prong transfer tools
  - Latch tool
  - Cast-on comb and claw weights (light — 4–6 small weights spaced evenly)
  - Ravel cord and waste yarn (contrasting color)
  - Tapestry needle for seaming
  - Blocking pins and mat
- **Notions**: Stitch markers, row counter

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## Gauge / Tension

- **Setting**: T9 (loose) on bulky machine, every-other-needle (EON) configuration
- **Gauge**: 12 stitches × 18 rows = 4" × 4" (10 × 10 cm) *after blocking*
- **Swatch first!** Cast on 30 needles EON (so 15 working sts spread across 30 needle positions). Knit 30 rows. Block and measure.

> ⚠️ **Critical**: EON with fingering yarn on bulky machines is delicate. Use light weights only, and add a claw weight every 15–20 needles. Hang ravel cord generously.

---

## Sizes

Pattern written for **Size M (38" bust / 42" hip / 36" length)**. Adjustments in parentheses for S (34"/38") and L (42"/46").

| Measurement       | S         | M         | L         |
|-------------------|-----------|-----------|-----------|
| Hem width (each panel) | 19" (57 sts) | 21" (63 sts) | 23" (69 sts) |
| Bust width (each panel)| 17" (51 sts) | 18.5" (55 sts)| 20.5" (61 sts)|
| Total length      | 35"       | 36"       | 37"       |
| Armhole depth     | 7.5"      | 8"        | 8.5"      |

*All counts are working stitches in EON. Needle span = stitch count × 2 − 1.*

---

## Abbreviations & Terms

- **COL / COR** – Carriage on left / right
- **RC** – Row counter
- **EON** – Every other needle (alternate needles in working position; empty needles in non-working position)
- **NWP / WP** – Non-working position / working position
- **MT** – Main tension (T9 for this pattern)
- **WY** – Waste yarn
- **MY** – Main yarn
- **Dec 1** – Single-needle decrease using 2-prong transfer tool: transfer edge stitch inward 1 needle position (= 2 needle positions in EON to next working needle); push emptied needle to NWP.
- **BO** – Bind off (latch-tool bind off recommended)
- **CO** – Cast on

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## Pattern Notes

- **EON setup**: Push every other needle to WP. For 63 working sts, you'll use 125 needle positions (center over 0).
- The empty (NWP) needles between working sts create the "open" appearance — they receive yarn floats that create eyelets when the fabric relaxes.
- **Weighting**: Use light claw weights only. Excessive weight will distort or drop sts.
- **Tension is critical**: Too tight and the fabric loses drape; too loose and sts will drop. Swatch and adjust ±0.5 dial if needed.
- This pattern is written for Size M throughout. Substitute counts from the size chart for S/L.
- Construction: Two identical panels (front and back differ only in neckline depth). Side seams and shoulder seams mattress-stitched.

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## BACK PANEL

### Setup
1. Push **125 needles to WP** (63 working positions, EON), centered on 0. Empty needles between remain in NWP.
2. With **WY at T9**, knit 8–10 rows ending **COR**. Insert ravel cord across all working needles.
3. Switch to **MY at T9**. **Set RC to 000**.

### Hem & Body — A-Line Shaping (RC 000–108)

4. **RC 000, COR**: Knit 12 rows plain. *(End COR, RC 012.)*
5. **Side decreases**: At RC 012, COR — use 2-prong transfer tool to move the rightmost working st 1 working-position inward (i.e., transfer onto the next working needle). Push emptied needle to NWP. Carriage to left.
6. **RC 013, COL**: Decrease 1 st at left edge the same way.
7. Knit to **RC 024**. *(61 working sts remain.)*
8. **Repeat decrease at both edges every 24 rows**, 3 more times:
   - RC 024 (R) & 025 (L): dec — **59 sts**
   - RC 048 / 049: dec — **57 sts**
   - RC 072 / 073: dec — **55 sts**
9. Knit straight to **RC 108**. *End COR.* **(55 working sts.)*

> ✅ **Math check**: 63 − 8 decreases = 55 sts. Length at RC 108 = 108 ÷ 18 × 4 = 24". This is the underarm point. ✓

### Armhole Shaping (RC 108–144)

10. **RC 108, COR**: Bind off 4 sts at right edge using latch tool. Push freed needles to NWP. Carriage to left, knit 1 row.
11. **RC 109, COL**: Bind off 4 sts at left edge. Knit 1 row to right.
12. **RC 110, COR**: Dec 1 st at right edge (transfer method, as in body).
13. **RC 111, COL**: Dec 1 st at left edge.
14. *(47 − 4 = 43 sts remain.)*
15. Knit straight from **RC 112 to RC 144**. *End COR.* **(43 working sts; armhole = 36 rows = 8".)**

### Neckline Shaping (RC 144–162)

16. **RC 144, COR**: With latch tool, BO **center 17 sts** (count carefully — 13 sts remain on each side).
17. Take right shoulder out of work by hanging on holder/spare needles, OR work both shoulders separately by placing the left shoulder needles in **hold** (push to E position, set carriage to **hold**).
18. **Working right shoulder (13 sts)**:
   - Knit 18 rows straight. *End at RC 162.*
   - **BO all 13 sts** with latch tool. Cut yarn.
19. **Working left shoulder (13 sts)**:
   - Return left shoulder to WP. Re-thread MY.
   - Knit 18 rows straight from RC 144 → RC 162.
   - BO all 13 sts with latch tool.

> ✅ **Math check**: Shoulder shaping rows = 18 = 4" depth. Total length: 162 rows ÷ 18 × 4 = 36". ✓

---

## FRONT PANEL

Work exactly as Back Panel through **RC 132** (43 sts after armhole shaping, 12 rows into armhole section). Then:

20. **RC 132, COR**: BO **center 13 sts** for front neckline. Place left shoulder sts in hold.
21. **Right shoulder (15 sts)**:
   - **RC 133, COL**: Dec 1 st at neck edge. Knit 1 row.
   - Repeat neck-edge dec every 2 rows, 2 more times. **(13 sts)**
   - Knit straight to **RC 162**. BO all sts.
22. **Left shoulder**: Return to WP, rejoin MY, work mirror image — dec 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows × 3, then knit straight to RC 162. BO all sts.

> ✅ **Math check**: Front neck drop = 30 rows ≈ 6.7" — proper scoop for a tank. Back neck drop = 18 rows ≈ 4". ✓

---

## FINISHING

### 1. Remove from Machine
- Release pieces by unraveling waste yarn and ravel cord from cast-on edge. Pick up live sts of cast-on on a spare needle or knitter's pin for a rolled hem option (see step 4).

### 2. Block
- Soak panels in cool water 20 minutes. Roll in towel.
- Pin to schematic dimensions on blocking mat. **Critical**: this opens up the EON eyelets and sets the drape. Let dry completely.

### 3. Seam
- **Shoulder seams**: Mattress stitch with MY, matching st for st (13 sts each side).
- **Side seams**: Mattress stitch from hem to underarm, leaving armhole open. Use a loose tension to preserve drape.

### 4. Hem Finishing (choose one)
- **Option A — Picot Hem**: Hang cast-on edge live sts on every other needle in WP. Knit 1 row at T9, bind off with latch tool for a soft rolled edge.
- **Option B — Crochet Edge**: Single crochet around hem with a 4mm hook for stability.

### 5. Neckline & Armhole Edges
- Apply a single row of crochet slip stitch or a latch-tool chain around each opening. This prevents curling and stabilizes the open fabric.
- Optional: thread thin cotton tape through the shoulder seam wrong side for added structural support if yarn is very drapey.

### 6. Final Press
- Steam lightly on wrong side, hovering iron (do not press down — protects open structure).

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## Schematic (Size M)

```
        ┌──── 13 ────┐  17  ┌──── 13 ────┐    ← shoulders + back neck
        │            │      │            │
        │                                │    4" armhole+yoke
        ├──────── 43 sts ────────────────┤
       /                                  \
      /         8" armhole                 \
     /                                      \
    ├────────── 55 sts ─────────────────────┤   ← underarm
    │                                        │
    │           24" body                     │
    │                                        │
    ├────────── 63 sts ─────────────────────┤   ← hem (21" wide)
```

Total finished bust: 2 × 18.5" = **37"** (with EON open-fabric stretch ≈ 38–40" worn).
Total finished hem: 2 × 21" = **42"**.
Length: **36"** from hem to shoulder.

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**Designer's tip**: For an even airier version, knit on T10 and add 4 sts to each panel's cast-on to compensate for the looser gauge. For a more modest version, line with a coordinating cotton slip.

Happy knitting — enjoy the breeze! 🌞