purlJam

# Longline Boat Neck Tank Top

## MACHINE_SETUP

This pattern is written for a Standard Gauge (4.5mm pitch) machine with a main bed. A ribber is optional for the neckband.

*   **Yarn Compatibility**: Suitable for 2-ply to 3-ply fingering weight yarn.
*   **Needle Selection**: All needles in working position for main fabric.
*   **Carriage Settings (Main Bed)**:
    *   Main Carriage Lever: Knit (or equivalent for stockinette).
    *   Part Tension Unit (PTU) or Hold Cam: For holding techniques (as specified in neck shaping).
    *   Tuck, Slip, Weave settings: Not used for main fabric.
*   **Tension Dial Suggestions**:
    *   Main Fabric (Stockinette): T5-6 (Main Bed) – *Always swatch to determine optimal tension for your yarn and machine.*
    *   Rolled Hem / Cast-on (Waste Yarn): T9-10 (Main Bed)
    *   Neckband (Stockinette or 1x1 Rib): T3-4 (Main Bed), T2-3 (Ribber, if used)
*   **Cast-on Method**: Waste yarn cast-on with ravel cord for main body panels. Re-hang method for turned hems.
*   **Weight Placement**: Use cast-on comb and appropriate claw weights evenly spaced, ensuring sufficient tension for smooth knitting, especially with fingering yarn. Move weights up as knitting progresses to maintain proper fabric fall.
*   **Tools Required**: Transfer tools (1x1, 2x1, 3x1), latch tool, claw weights, cast-on comb, ravel cord, tapestry needle, blocking pins, sweater board.

## MATERIALS

*   **Yarn**: Fingering weight yarn (50g = approx. 200m / 218 yds)
    *   **Sizes S (M, L, XL)**: 800 (900, 1000, 1100) metres / 875 (985, 1095, 1200) yards.
*   **Machine**: Standard Gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine (e.g., Brother, Silver Reed).
*   **Optional**: Ribber attachment for 1x1 rib neckband/armbands.
*   **Accessories**: Waste yarn, ravel cord, yarn winder, steam iron or steamer, measuring tape, stitch markers.

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

***It is CRUCIAL to knit a swatch to determine your personal machine's gauge with your chosen yarn. Differences in yarn, machine, and tension can significantly alter garment size.***

*   **Swatching Instructions**:
    1.  Cast on 50 stitches with waste yarn and ravel cord.
    2.  Knit 10 rows at a loose tension (T9-10).
    3.  Change to desired main fabric tension (suggested T5-6).
    4.  Knit 60 rows in stockinette stitch.
    5.  Knit 5 rows with waste yarn at loose tension.
    6.  Remove swatch from machine.
*   **Measuring Gauge**:
    1.  Gently hand wash your swatch (if recommended for your yarn) or steam block it thoroughly until flat and relaxed.
    2.  Allow to dry completely.
    3.  Measure the central 10 cm x 10 cm (4 in x 4 in) section of your swatch.
    4.  Count the number of stitches horizontally and rows vertically within this area.
*   **Target Gauge (Stockinette on Main Bed, after steaming)**:
    *   **Stitch Gauge**: 38 stitches / 10 cm (approx. 9.5 sts / 1 inch)
    *   **Row Gauge**: 52 rows / 10 cm (approx. 13 rows / 1 inch)
*   **Adjusting Tension**: If your stitch count is too high, increase your tension dial. If too low, decrease tension. Adjust row count similarly.

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

All measurements are in cm (inches).
Sizes: S (M, L, XL)

| Measurement                 | S         | M         | L         | XL        |
| :-------------------------- | :-------- | :-------- | :-------- | :-------- |
| **Finished Bust Circ.**     | 98 (38.5) | 108 (42.5)| 118 (46.5)| 128 (50.5)|
| **Front Panel Width**       | 49 (19.3) | 54 (21.3) | 59 (23.2) | 64 (25.2) |
| **Back Panel Width**        | 49 (19.3) | 54 (21.3) | 59 (23.2) | 64 (25.2) |
| **Front Length (Shoulder to Hem)** | 58 (22.8) | 58 (22.8) | 58 (22.8) | 58 (22.8) |
| **Back Length (Shoulder to Hem)**  | 65 (25.5) | 65 (25.5) | 65 (25.5) | 65 (25.5) |
| **Armhole Depth**           | 21 (8.3)  | 21 (8.3)  | 21 (8.3)  | 21 (8.3)  |
| **Back Neck Depth**         | 2 (0.8)   | 2 (0.8)   | 2 (0.8)   | 2 (0.8)   |
| **Front Neck Depth**        | 3.5 (1.4) | 3.5 (1.4) | 3.5 (1.4) | 3.5 (1.4) |
| **Shoulder Width**          | 10.5 (4.1)| 12 (4.7)  | 13.5 (5.3)| 15 (5.9)  |
| **Neckline Width (approx)** | 28 (11)   | 30 (11.8) | 32 (12.6) | 34 (13.4) |

**(See Figure 1: Schematic Diagram - [Imagine a basic drawing of a tank top, back longer than front, showing key measurements])**

## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Counts**: S: 186 (M: 206, L: 224, XL: 244) stitches
**Row Counts**:
*   Hem: 10 rows (2 cm)
*   Body: 218 rows (42 cm)
*   Armhole (including neck shaping): 110 rows (21 cm)
*   **Total**: 338 rows (65 cm)

1.  **Preparation**: Set up machine for stockinette. Use waste yarn to cast on all needles for your size (S: 186, M: 206, L: 224, XL: 244). Knit 10 rows with waste yarn.
2.  **Ravel Cord & Hem**:
    *   RC000 (COR): Knit 1 row with ravel cord at T5-6.
    *   RC001 (COL): Change to main yarn at T5-6. Knit 10 rows.
    *   RC010 (COL): Re-hang the loops from the ravel cord onto the needles, forming a clean turned hem. Place weights appropriately. Set RC to 000.
3.  **Body**:
    *   RC000 (COL): Knit 218 (M: 218, L: 218, XL: 218) rows straight in stockinette, maintaining T5-6. Keep weights moving up.
    *   *(Current RC = 218 for all sizes)*
4.  **Armhole Shaping**:
    *   RC219 (COL): At the start of the next row, mark the armhole start using a stitch marker on each side. Knit 100 (M: 100, L: 100, XL: 100) rows straight for the armhole opening, maintaining T5-6.
    *   *(Current RC = 318 for all sizes)*
5.  **Back Neck Shaping (10 rows for 2 cm depth)**:
    *   **Stitches for Neckline**: S: 106 (M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130) stitches.
    *   **Stitches for Each Shoulder**: S: 40 (M: 46, L: 51, XL: 57) stitches.
    *   **Divide for Shaping**:
        *   RC319 (COL): With carriage on LEFT, knit across to the (S: N40, M: N46, L: N51, XL: N57) needle from the Right. Place all remaining needles from the Right of this point (S: 106, M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130 stitches) onto HOLD position. Do NOT wrap held stitches.
        *   Set carriage to **Partial Knit** (or HOLD position on machine).
        *   **Work Left Shoulder (10 rows)**:
            *   RC319 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC320 (COR): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the **working needles** into HOLD position (e.g., L-N40, L-N39 become held). Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC321 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC322 (COR): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC323 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC324 (COR): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC325 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC326 (COR): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC327 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC328 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   *(All 40 (M: 46, L: 51, XL: 57) Left Shoulder stitches are now in HOLD position.)*
        *   **Work Right Shoulder (10 rows)**:
            *   Move carriage to the RIGHT side. Reset RC to 319.
            *   RC319 (COR): With carriage on RIGHT, knit across to the (S: N40, M: N46, L: N51, XL: N57) needle from the Left. Place all remaining needles from the Left of this point (S: 106, M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130 stitches) onto HOLD position. Do NOT wrap held stitches.
            *   Set carriage to **Partial Knit** (or HOLD position on machine).
            *   RC319 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC320 (COL): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the **working needles** into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC321 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC322 (COL): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC323 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC324 (COL): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC325 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC326 (COL): Bring 2 needles from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC327 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC328 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   *(All 40 (M: 46, L: 51, XL: 57) Right Shoulder stitches are now in HOLD position.)*
    *   **Finishing Shoulders**: After both shoulders are completely in HOLD position (RC328), bind off all active working stitches (the shoulder stitches) using a latch tool bind-off. Remove all held stitches from the machine onto waste yarn or a stitch holder for later neckband construction. *(The held needles for the neckline are not returned to work in this panel; they form the raw edge of the boat neck opening.)*

## FRONT_PANEL

**Stitch Counts**: S: 186 (M: 206, L: 224, XL: 244) stitches
**Row Counts**:
*   Hem: 10 rows (2 cm)
*   Body: 182 rows (35 cm)
*   Armhole (including neck shaping): 110 rows (21 cm)
*   **Total**: 302 rows (58 cm)

1.  **Preparation**: Set up machine for stockinette. Use waste yarn to cast on all needles for your size (S: 186, M: 206, L: 224, XL: 244). Knit 10 rows with waste yarn.
2.  **Ravel Cord & Hem**:
    *   RC000 (COR): Knit 1 row with ravel cord at T5-6.
    *   RC001 (COL): Change to main yarn at T5-6. Knit 10 rows.
    *   RC010 (COL): Re-hang the loops from the ravel cord onto the needles, forming a clean turned hem. Place weights appropriately. Set RC to 000.
3.  **Body**:
    *   RC000 (COL): Knit 182 (M: 182, L: 182, XL: 182) rows straight in stockinette, maintaining T5-6. Keep weights moving up.
    *   *(Current RC = 182 for all sizes)*
4.  **Armhole Shaping**:
    *   RC183 (COL): At the start of the next row, mark the armhole start using a stitch marker on each side. Knit 92 (M: 92, L: 92, XL: 92) rows straight for the armhole opening, maintaining T5-6.
    *   *(Current RC = 274 for all sizes)*
5.  **Front Neck Shaping (18 rows for 3.5 cm depth)**:
    *   **Stitches for Neckline**: S: 106 (M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130) stitches.
    *   **Stitches for Each Shoulder**: S: 40 (M: 46, L: 51, XL: 57) stitches.
    *   **Divide for Shaping**:
        *   RC275 (COL): With carriage on LEFT, knit across to the (S: N40, M: N46, L: N51, XL: N57) needle from the Right. Place all remaining needles from the Right of this point (S: 106, M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130 stitches) onto HOLD position. Do NOT wrap held stitches.
        *   Set carriage to **Partial Knit** (or HOLD position on machine).
        *   **Work Left Shoulder (18 rows)**:
            *   RC275 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC276 (COR): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the **working needles** into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC277 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC278 (COR): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   *(Repeat bringing 1 needle to HOLD every 2nd row for a total of 8 times, for 16 rows of shaping)*
            *   RC291 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC292 (COR): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC293 (COL): Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC294 (COR): Bind off the remaining (S: 32, M: 38, L: 43, XL: 49) Left Shoulder stitches using a latch tool.
            *   *(Note: This creates a steeper, more defined boat neck than the back. The last 2 rows complete the 18 rows of shaping for the front.)*
        *   **Work Right Shoulder (18 rows)**:
            *   Move carriage to the RIGHT side. Reset RC to 275.
            *   RC275 (COR): With carriage on RIGHT, knit across to the (S: N40, M: N46, L: N51, XL: N57) needle from the Left. Place all remaining needles from the Left of this point (S: 106, M: 114, L: 122, XL: 130 stitches) onto HOLD position. Do NOT wrap held stitches.
            *   Set carriage to **Partial Knit** (or HOLD position on machine).
            *   RC275 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC276 (COL): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the **working needles** into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC277 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC278 (COL): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   *(Repeat bringing 1 needle to HOLD every 2nd row for a total of 8 times, for 16 rows of shaping)*
            *   RC291 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC292 (COL): Bring 1 needle from the neck edge of the working needles into HOLD position. Knit 1 row to COR.
            *   RC293 (COR): Knit 1 row to COL.
            *   RC294 (COL): Bind off the remaining (S: 32, M: 38, L: 43, XL: 49) Right Shoulder stitches using a latch tool.
    *   **Finishing Shoulders**: After both shoulders are bound off (RC294), remove all held stitches from the machine onto waste yarn or a stitch holder for later neckband construction. *(The held needles for the neckline are not returned to work in this panel; they form the raw edge of the boat neck opening.)*

## SLEEVES

**N/A - This is a tank top and does not have sleeves.**
*Armhole finishing instructions are provided in the FINISHING section.*

## NECKBAND

This method creates a simple 1x1 rib band, using the ribber if available, or a simple stockinette band on the main bed.

1.  **Preparation**: Carefully re-hang all live stitches from the back neck and front neck onto the main bed, centered on the machine. Use a 1x1 transfer tool to pick up 1 stitch for every row along the shaped edges. Ensure an even number of stitches if using 1x1 rib.
    *   **Approximate Stitches to Re-hang (S/M/L/XL)**:
        *   Back Neck: (Shoulder stitches x 2) + (Neckline width in cm x 3.8 stitches/cm) approx = 40x2 + 28x3.8 = 80 + 106 = 186.
        *   Front Neck: (Shoulder stitches x 2) + (Neckline width in cm x 3.8 stitches/cm) approx = 40x2 + 28x3.8 = 80 + 106 = 186.
        *   Adjust pickup ratio as needed for a flat, even band. Aim for a total stitch count that slightly gathers the neckline.
        *   *Let's aim for a total around (S: 200, M: 220, L: 240, XL: 260) stitches picked up.*
2.  **Ribber Method (Recommended for stretch)**:
    *   Set up ribber in full needle rib (or 1x1).
    *   Re-hang stitches alternating between main bed and ribber needles.
    *   Set both main bed and ribber tension dials to T3-4 (Main) / T2-3 (Ribber).
    *   Knit 8-10 rows of 1x1 rib.
    *   Transfer all ribber stitches to the main bed using a transfer tool (if not already in use).
    *   Increase main bed tension slightly (T6-7).
3.  **Main Bed Method (Alternative)**:
    *   Re-hang all stitches onto the main bed only.
    *   Set main bed tension to T3-4.
    *   Knit 4-6 rows of stockinette.
    *   Increase tension slightly (T6-7).
4.  **Bind Off**:
    *   With carriage on LEFT or RIGHT, bind off all stitches using a stretchy latch tool bind-off. This creates a neat and flexible edge.
    *   Alternatively, use a sewn bind-off for a clean, professional finish.

## FINISHING

1.  **Steam Blocking**: Gently remove all panels from the machine. Pin all pieces (front, back) to a flat surface or a sweater board, matching the schematic dimensions. Steam gently using a steam iron or steamer, being careful not to stretch the fabric excessively. Allow to cool and dry completely. This relaxes the stitches and helps the garment hang properly.
2.  **Shoulder Seams**: Join the shoulder seams using the preferred grafting method (e.g., mattress stitch or backstitch for strength). Ensure shoulder edges align perfectly.
3.  **Side Seams**: Join the side seams from the hem up to the armhole. Use a mattress stitch for an invisible and strong seam.
4.  **Armhole Bands**:
    *   Re-hang stitches along each armhole edge onto the main bed. Aim for an even pickup ratio (e.g., 3 stitches for every 4 rows) to prevent gaping or puckering.
    *   Set main bed tension to T3-4.
    *   Knit 4-6 rows of stockinette.
    *   Bind off using a stretchy latch tool bind-off or a sewn bind-off.
    *   Repeat for the second armhole.
5.  **Final Touches**:
    *   Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely using a tapestry needle.
    *   Give the entire garment a final light steam block to settle seams and bands.

## ABBREVIATIONS

*   **RC**: Row Counter
*   **COL**: Carriage On Left
*   **COR**: Carriage On Right
*   **sts**: stitches
*   **cm**: centimeter(s)
*   **in**: inch(es)
*   **N**: Needle
*   **T**: Tension (dial setting)
*   **BO**: Bind Off
*   **RH**: Re-hang
*   **PTU**: Part Tension Unit
*   **HOLD**: Holding Position (needles held out of work)