purlJam

# Bottom-Up Raglan Crew Neck Sweater
### Fingering Weight • Standard Gauge Machine • Easy

A classic, lightweight raglan pullover knit in four flat panels and seamed. The clean raglan lines and ribbed crew neck make this a wardrobe staple. Ideal as a first raglan project on the knitting machine.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Fingering weight (4-ply / sock weight), approx. 1,200 m / 1,310 yd for size M. Smooth, plied wool or wool-blend recommended.
- **Machine:** Standard gauge (4.5 mm), e.g. Brother KH-series, Silver Reed SK-series. Ribber recommended for hems and neckband (optional — mock rib alternative provided).
- **Tools:** 1-prong and 3-prong transfer tools, latch tool, claw weights (4–6), cast-on comb, ravel cord, waste yarn (contrast color), tapestry needle.

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## Tension / Gauge

- **Main tension (stockinette):** T6
- **Rib tension (1×1):** T4/4
- **Gauge swatch (washed & blocked):** **32 sts × 44 rows = 10 cm / 4 in**
- *Math check: 1 st = 0.3125 cm; 1 row = 0.227 cm. Always swatch before starting.*

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## Sizes

Pattern written for **Adult Medium** (finished chest 100 cm / 39½ in). Adjustments for other sizes noted in [brackets] where practical: S [100 / 110 / 120] cm.

**Finished measurements (M):**
- Chest: 100 cm
- Body length (hem to underarm): 50 cm
- Total length: 65 cm
- Sleeve length (cuff to underarm): 45 cm
- Upper arm: 34 cm
- Neckline opening: ~37.5 cm (relaxed)

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## Abbreviations & Machine Terms

- **RC** — Row counter
- **COL / COR** — Carriage on Left / Right
- **NIW / NOOW** — Needle In Work / Out of Work
- **MT / T#** — Main Tension / Tension dial number
- **EON / EOR** — Every Other Needle / Every Other Row
- **WY** — Waste yarn
- **MY** — Main yarn
- **e-wrap** — Hand cast-on around needles
- **3-needle bind-off** — Latch-tool seam used for shoulder/raglan joins
- **Fully fashioned dec (FFD)** — Transfer 3 sts inward using 3-prong tool, leaving empty needle at edge OOW

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## Pattern Notes

- All four panels are knit flat on the main bed only.
- Ribbed hems are worked on the ribber (1×1 rib). If no ribber: substitute mock rib (see Hem Alternative).
- Raglan shaping uses **fully fashioned decreases** 3 sts in from each edge for a clean seamline.
- All four panels have the **same raglan row count (120 rows)** so seams match perfectly.
- Hang claw weights every 20 rows and move up as work progresses.
- Always end with **COR** before changing carriage settings unless noted otherwise.

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## PANEL 1 & 2 — FRONT and BACK (make 2 identical)

### Hem (1×1 rib)
1. Arrange needles for 1×1 rib: **161 needles total** (81 main bed / 80 ribber, centered around #0).
2. Cast on with ravel cord + waste yarn, knit 10 rows WY ending **COR**.
3. Change to MY at **T4/4**. Knit circular row, then knit **20 rows of 1×1 rib**.
4. **RC = 20.** Carriage **COR**.
5. Transfer all ribber stitches up to main bed using 2-prong transfer tool. You now have **161 sts on main bed**. Drop the 1 extra edge stitch or decrease 1 to reach **160 sts**. *(Check: 160 sts ÷ 32 sts/10 cm = 50 cm ✓)*

### Body (stockinette)
6. Reset **RC = 0**. Set tension to **T6**. Knit straight in stockinette.
7. Hang claw weights at edges. Knit to **RC = 220** (50 cm). End **COR**.

### Raglan Shaping
8. Reset **RC = 0**. **COR.**
9. **Decrease row (every other row, EOR):** At each edge, use 3-prong transfer tool to move the outermost 3 sts inward by 1 needle. Leave the edge needle empty and push it to OOW (non-working position). This is one **FFD** each side = **2 sts decreased per dec row**.
10. Knit 2 rows, decreasing both edges on the row after the carriage passes (work decs while COR before knitting back).
11. Repeat the EOR decrease **60 times total**:
    - **RC checkpoint 20:** 10 decs done, 140 sts remain. *(160 − 20 = 140 ✓)*
    - **RC checkpoint 60:** 30 decs done, 100 sts remain.
    - **RC checkpoint 120:** 60 decs done, **40 sts remain**. *(160 − 120 = 40 ✓)*
12. **RC = 120.** End **COR**. Carriage to **T5**. Knit 1 row loose, then release on waste yarn (knit 10 rows WY) and remove from machine.

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## PANEL 3 & 4 — SLEEVES (make 2 identical)

### Cuff (1×1 rib)
1. Arrange ribber for 1×1 rib: **71 needles total** (36 main / 35 ribber, centered).
2. Cast on with WY + ravel cord, knit 10 rows WY. Change to MY at **T3/3** for snug cuff.
3. Knit **30 rows of 1×1 rib** (longer cuff for fingering weight). **RC = 30.** End **COR.**
4. Transfer all sts to main bed: **70 sts on main bed**. *(Check: 70 ÷ 32 × 10 = 21.9 cm cuff circ ✓)*

### Sleeve Body with Increases
5. Reset **RC = 0**. Tension **T6**.
6. Hang claw weights. Knit straight 6 rows.
7. **Increase row:** At **RC = 6**, with **COR**, pick up the purl bar below the 2nd stitch from each edge and hang it on the empty needle just outside (e-wrap if no bar available). +2 sts. Total: 72 sts.
8. Repeat **inc row every 8 rows**, **30 times total**:
    - Increase rows occur at RC = 6, 14, 22, 30, …, 238.
    - *Math: 30 incs × 2 sts = 60 sts added → 70 + 60 = 130 sts.* ✓
9. Knit straight to **RC = 240** (≈ 54.5 cm — includes ease for raglan). End **COR**.

   *Final cuff-to-underarm length: 240 rows ÷ 44 × 10 = 54.5 cm including cuff. Adjust to taste; cuff (30 rows rib ≈ 6 cm) + 240 stockinette rows.*

### Sleeve Raglan Shaping
10. Reset **RC = 0**. **COR.** **130 sts on bed.**
11. **EOR fully fashioned decreases** as for body, both edges, **55 times**:
    - **RC = 20:** 10 decs done → 110 sts.
    - **RC = 60:** 30 decs done → 70 sts.
    - **RC = 110:** 55 decs done → **20 sts**. *(130 − 110 = 20 ✓)*
12. Knit **10 rows straight** with no decreases. **RC = 120**, **COR**. *(Matches body raglan depth of 120 rows ✓)*
13. Knit 10 rows WY at T8 and release from machine.

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## ASSEMBLY

1. Block all four panels to schematic measurements. Pin and steam lightly; let dry fully.
2. **Seam the four raglan lines** using mattress stitch or join on the machine with **3-needle bind-off**:
   - Rehang front + sleeve raglan edges right-sides-together on the main bed, matched stitch-for-stitch (60 raglan dec edges each side line up exactly).
   - With **T8**, knit 1 row, then latch-tool bind off across.
   - Repeat for all four raglan seams.
3. Sew side seams and underarm/sleeve seams with mattress stitch using MY.

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## CREW NECKBAND

1. With right side facing, pick up live stitches around the neckline onto the main bed:
   - **Front: 40 sts** (live)
   - **Back: 40 sts** (live)
   - **Left sleeve top: 20 sts** (live)
   - **Right sleeve top: 20 sts** (live)
   - **Total: 120 sts** centered on the bed.
   - *Check: 120 sts ÷ 32 × 10 = 37.5 cm relaxed opening — fits over head ✓*
2. Reset **RC = 0**. **T4.** Knit **1 row** to join.
3. Set tension **T3** and knit **20 rows stockinette** (this will fold to form a doubled band). End **COR**.
4. **RC = 20.** Change to **T6** and knit 1 loose turning row.
5. **RC = 21.** Return to **T3**, knit another **20 rows**. End **COR**.
6. **RC = 41.** Rehang the original pick-up edge onto the corresponding needles (fold band in half to inside). Knit 1 row at **T8**.
7. **Latch-tool bind off** loosely across all 120 sts.

*Ribber alternative for neckband:* Set up 1×1 rib on 120 sts, knit 24 rows at T3/3, then bind off with latch tool through both beds.

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends on the wrong side using a tapestry needle, splitting plies for invisible joins.
2. Wet block the finished sweater: soak 20 min in lukewarm water with wool wash, roll in towel, lay flat to schematic measurements. Pat neckband into a smooth round.
3. Once dry, give a final light steam press to seams (avoid pressing ribs flat).

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## SCHEMATIC SUMMARY (size M)

| Piece | Cast-on | At underarm | At top | Length (rows) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front | 160 | 160 | 40 | 220 + 120 |
| Back | 160 | 160 | 40 | 220 + 120 |
| Sleeve | 70 | 130 | 20 | 240 + 120 |
| Neckband | 120 (picked up) | — | 120 | 41 |

**Final math check:**
- Chest: (160 sts × 2 panels) ÷ 32 × 10 = **100 cm** ✓
- Upper arm: 130 ÷ 32 × 10 = **40.6 cm** (with ease) ✓
- Neck opening: 120 ÷ 32 × 10 = **37.5 cm** ✓
- Raglan rows match: Front/Back 120 = Sleeve 120 ✓
- Top stitches sum: 40 + 40 + 20 + 20 = 120 = neckband ✓

Enjoy your finished raglan!