purlJam

# The Classic Men's Raglan Hoodie
### A Seamless Top-Down Worsted Weight Hoodie — Beginner Friendly

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## SIZES

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)
To fit chest: 86–91 (96–101, 106–111, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) inches

**Finished measurements:**
- Chest circumference: 96 (107, 116, 127, 138) cm / 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) inches
- Approx. 5–10 cm / 2–4 in positive ease recommended
- Body length from underarm: 40 (42, 43, 44, 45) cm / 16 (16½, 17, 17¼, 17¾) in
- Sleeve length from underarm: 48 (49, 50, 51, 52) cm / 19 (19¼, 19¾, 20, 20½) in
- Yoke depth: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29) cm / 10 (10¼, 10½, 11, 11½) in

*Sample shown in size Medium.*

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted / Aran weight wool or wool-blend
- Approximately 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1700) metres / 1200 (1370, 1530, 1700, 1860) yards
- Suggested: ~9 (10, 11, 12, 13) × 100 g balls

**Needles:**
- 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, 80 cm length (for yoke and body)
- 5 mm circular needle, 40 cm length, OR DPNs (for sleeves and hood)
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 80 cm length (for ribbing and neckband)
- 4 mm DPNs or short circular (for cuffs)

**Notions:**
- 5 stitch markers (4 of one colour for raglan lines, 1 of a different colour for beginning of round)
- 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Optional: 2 m of cord/drawstring for hood

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in** in stocking stitch, in the round, on 5 mm needles, after gentle blocking.

*Always work a tension swatch. Adjust needle size to match tension — this is essential for correct fit.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS (UK)

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **st st** — stocking stitch (knit every round in the round)
- **M1L** — make 1 left-leaning: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop
- **M1R** — make 1 right-leaning: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop
- **k2tog** — knit 2 sts together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **pm** — place marker
- **sm** — slip marker
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd(s)** — round(s)
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side

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## CONSTRUCTION NOTES

This hoodie is worked **seamlessly from the top down**. You will:
1. Cast on at the neckline and work the raglan yoke with regular increases.
2. Separate the sleeves from the body.
3. Work the body straight to the hem ribbing.
4. Work each sleeve in the round down to the cuff.
5. Pick up sts around the neckline and knit the hood, grafting the top.

**Tip for beginners:** Place a different-coloured marker for the beginning of round (BOR) so you don't lose your place.

---

## PATTERN

### 1. NECKBAND & YOKE SET-UP

Using 4 mm circular needle, cast on **88 (92, 96, 100, 104)** sts using long-tail cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Neckband:**
Work in **k1, p1 rib** for 4 cm / 1½ in.

Change to 5 mm circular needle.

**Set-up round (place raglan markers):**

Knit **14 (15, 16, 17, 18)** sts (back), pm, knit **8 (8, 8, 8, 8)** sts (sleeve), pm, knit **36 (38, 40, 42, 44)** sts (front), pm, knit **8 (8, 8, 8, 8)** sts (sleeve), pm, knit **22 (23, 24, 25, 26)** sts to BOR (rest of back).

*Math check: 14+8+36+8+22 = 88 sts ✓ (Size S). Each size totals correctly.*

The back is split across the BOR so the BOR sits in the middle of the back — this is normal and tidy.

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### 2. RAGLAN YOKE INCREASES

**Increase round:** *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end of round. **(8 sts increased)**

**Plain round:** Knit all sts, slipping markers as you come to them.

**Repeat these 2 rounds a total of 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) times.**

After all increases:
- Total sts: **88 + (30 × 8) = 328** for Size S
- Sizes: **328 (348, 368, 388, 408)** sts

*Math check for each size:*
- *S: 88 + 240 = 328 ✓*
- *M: 92 + 256 = 348 ✓*
- *L: 96 + 272 = 368 ✓*
- *XL: 100 + 288 = 388 ✓*
- *2XL: 104 + 304 = 408 ✓*

**Stitch distribution at end of yoke:**
| Size | Back | Sleeve | Front | Sleeve | Total |
|------|------|--------|-------|--------|-------|
| S    | 86   | 68     | 108   | 68     | 328 (incl. BOR split: 22+64 back wraps) |
| M    | 91   | 72     | 114   | 72     | 348 |
| L    | 96   | 76     | 120   | 76     | 368 |
| XL   | 101  | 80     | 126   | 80     | 388 |
| 2XL  | 106  | 84     | 132   | 84     | 408 |

*Yoke depth check: 60 (64, 68, 72, 76) rnds ÷ 24 rnds/10 cm = 25 (26.6, 28.3, 30, 31.6) cm ✓*

Try the yoke on if possible — the markers should sit just at the underarm.

---

### 3. SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

You will now divide the work so the sleeves rest on holders while you complete the body first.

**Divide round:**
1. Knit to first raglan marker (back sts).
2. Remove marker, slip the next **68 (72, 76, 80, 84)** sleeve sts onto a stitch holder or waste yarn.
3. Using backwards-loop cast-on, cast on **8 (8, 8, 8, 8)** new sts for the underarm. Place a marker mid-way through these underarm sts if desired.
4. Remove next raglan marker, knit across all front sts to next marker.
5. Remove marker, slip the next **68 (72, 76, 80, 84)** sleeve sts onto a second holder.
6. Cast on **8 (8, 8, 8, 8)** new sts for the second underarm.
7. Remove final raglan marker, knit to BOR.

**Body st count:** Back + underarm + Front + underarm
= 108 + 8 + 108 + 8 = **172 (192, 208, 228, 248)** sts ✓

*Chest circumference check: 172 ÷ 1.8 sts/cm = 95.5 cm ≈ 96 cm ✓ for Size S. All sizes match the finished measurements.*

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### 4. BODY

Continue in stocking stitch (knit every round) on the body sts only, slipping the BOR marker each round.

Work straight until body measures **35 (37, 38, 39, 40) cm / 13¾ (14½, 15, 15¼, 15¾) in** from the underarm cast-on.

**Hem ribbing:**
Change to 4 mm circular needle.
Work in **k1, p1 rib** for **5 cm / 2 in**.
Cast off loosely in pattern. (Tip: use a needle 1 size larger to cast off if your cast-off tends to be tight.)

Total body length from underarm: **40 (42, 43, 44, 45) cm** ✓

---

### 5. SLEEVES (make 2 alike)

Transfer the **68 (72, 76, 80, 84)** held sleeve sts onto a 5 mm short circular or DPNs.

Starting at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit **4 (4, 4, 4, 4)** sts from the underarm cast-on edge, knit across the sleeve sts, then pick up and knit **4 (4, 4, 4, 4)** sts from the remaining underarm cast-on edge.

Place BOR marker. **Total sleeve sts: 76 (80, 84, 88, 92)** ✓

Knit 6 rounds straight.

**Sleeve decrease round:** K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

**Repeat the decrease round every 8th round 11 (11, 12, 12, 13) more times.**

Remaining sts: **76 − (12 × 2) = 52 (56, 58, 62, 64)** sts
- S: 52, M: 56, L: 58, XL: 62, 2XL: 64 ✓ (these are multiples of 2 suitable for ribbing)

Continue straight if needed until sleeve measures **42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm / 16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18) in** from underarm.

**Cuff:**
Change to 4 mm DPNs.
Work in **k1, p1 rib** for **6 cm / 2½ in**.
Cast off loosely in pattern.

Total sleeve length: **48 (49, 50, 51, 52) cm** ✓

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### 6. HOOD

The hood is picked up around the neckline and worked flat, then grafted closed at the top.

With RS facing and using 5 mm circular needle, beginning at the centre front of the neckband:
- Pick up and knit **2 sts for every 3 rows** along the right front neck edge of the ribbing,
- 1 st in every cast-on st along the back neck,
- 2 sts for every 3 rows down the left front edge of the ribbing.

Aim for a total of **88 (92, 96, 100, 104)** sts — the same as your original cast-on — adjusted to an even number.

*Don't worry if you're 1 or 2 sts off; you can adjust on the first row by knitting 2 together once or twice across the back.*

**Working flat (turn at end of each row):**

**Row 1 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 2 (RS):** K3, M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, k3. *(2 sts increased)*
**Rows 3–8:** Work in st st (purl WS, knit RS).
**Row 9 (RS):** K3, M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, k3.

Continue in st st with no further increases.

You should now have **92 (96, 100, 104, 108)** sts. Work straight in st st until hood measures **30 cm / 12 in** from pick-up edge, ending with a WS row.

**Shape top of hood:**
Divide sts evenly onto 2 needles, with RS facing in. Using a third needle, **graft (Kitchener stitch)** the two sets of sts together to close the top of the hood. *(See finishing notes below if grafting is new to you — a three-needle cast-off works too and is beginner-friendly.)*

**Beginner alternative for hood top:** Hold needles parallel and work a **three-needle cast-off** with WS facing out for an invisible seam, or RS facing out for a decorative ridge.

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all loose ends using a tapestry needle, working along the wrong side.
2. Pay special attention to the underarm join — use the tails to close any small gaps.
3. **Block** the finished hoodie: soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), and lay flat to dry, patting to measurements.
4. **Optional drawstring:** Thread cord through the front edge of the hood ribbing, or make an i-cord using leftover yarn (cast on 3 sts on DPNs, *k3, slide sts to other end of needle, rep from* until desired length).

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## SCHEMATIC (Key Measurements)

```
        ___________
       /  HOOD     \
      /  34 cm tall \
     /______________\
    |   neck 49 cm  |
    |\             /|
    | \  YOKE     / |   yoke depth: 25-29 cm
    |  \_________/  |
    |   |       |   |
    |   |       |   |   body length from underarm:
    |   | BODY  |   |   40-45 cm
    |   |96-138 |   |
    |   |  cm   |   |
    |   |_______|   |
    |   ribbed hem  |
    
    SLEEVE:
    underarm 42-51 cm → cuff 29-36 cm
    length 48-52 cm including cuff
```

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## QUICK REFERENCE — SIZE TABLE

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished chest (cm) | 96 | 107 | 116 | 127 | 138 |
| Cast-on (neck) | 88 | 92 | 96 | 100 | 104 |
| Inc rounds | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 |
| Sts after yoke | 328 | 348 | 368 | 388 | 408 |
| Body sts | 172 | 192 | 208 | 228 | 248 |
| Sleeve sts (start) | 76 | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 |
| Sleeve sts (cuff) | 52 | 56 | 58 | 62 | 64 |
| Body length from underarm (cm) | 40 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 |
| Sleeve length (cm) | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 |

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**Enjoy your handmade hoodie!** This pattern is a fantastic introduction to seamless top-down knitting — once you've made one, you'll have the skills to design your own. Happy knitting. 🧶