purlJam

# The Everyday Mockneck Pullover
### A classic seamless top-down raglan jumper in sport-weight yarn

A clean, timeless pullover with a neat 9cm (3½") mockneck that stands up without folding — modern, comfortable, and far less bulky than a full turtleneck. Worked seamlessly from the top down with **raglan shaping** (a smooth, fitted shoulder line — *not* a drop shoulder), this is an ideal first garment for a confident beginner. Minimal seaming, simple ribbing, and easy-to-follow stitch counts throughout.

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## Skill Level
**Beginner** — if you can knit, purl, increase (M1), and read a stitch count, you can make this jumper.

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## Sizes

| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust |
|------|-------------|---------------|
| S    | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 91 cm (36") |
| M    | 96–101 cm (38–40") | 101 cm (40") |
| L    | 106–111 cm (42–44") | 111 cm (44") |
| XL   | 117–122 cm (46–48") | 122 cm (48") |
| 2XL  | 127–132 cm (50–52") | 132 cm (52") |

**Ease:** Designed with approx. 5 cm (2") of positive ease — a classic, easy fit. Choose the finished bust closest to your actual bust + 5 cm.

Instructions are written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses: **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Sport weight (5-ply / 12-wpi). Soft next-to-skin fibre essential for neck comfort — merino, merino/alpaca, or soft superwash blends recommended. Avoid scratchy wool or mohair.
  - Approx. metrage required:
    - S: 1000 m
    - M: 1150 m
    - L: 1300 m
    - XL: 1480 m
    - 2XL: 1650 m
- **Needles:**
  - **4.0 mm** circular needle (60–80 cm cord) — main body
  - **4.0 mm** DPNs or long circular for magic loop — sleeves
  - **3.25 mm** circular needle (40 cm) — mockneck and ribbing
  - *(Always use the size needed to obtain tension.)*
- **Notions:** 4 stitch markers (raglan), 1 contrasting marker (beginning of round), waste yarn / stitch holders, tapestry needle.

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## Tension (Gauge)

**24 sts × 32 rounds = 10 cm (4")** in stocking stitch (st st), worked in the round on 4.0 mm needles, after blocking.

> ✅ **Tension check:** Cast on 30 sts, work 12 cm in st st in the round, block, and measure. Accurate tension is essential for a correct fit — please don't skip this.

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## Abbreviations (UK)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **M1L / M1R** – make one left/right (lifted increase)
- **k2tog** – knit two together
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit
- **pm** – place marker
- **sm** – slip marker
- **rep** – repeat
- **RS/WS** – right side / wrong side
- **st st** – stocking stitch

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## Construction Overview

1. Cast on at the neck and work the **mockneck** in k2p2 rib (9 cm / 3½", stands up — does not fold).
2. Place raglan markers and work the **raglan yoke**, increasing 8 sts every other round.
3. **Separate** sleeves from body at the underarm.
4. Work the **body** straight to the ribbed hem.
5. Return to the held sleeve stitches and work each **sleeve** to a ribbed cuff.
6. Block.

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## Mockneck

Using **3.25 mm** circular needle, cast on **100 (104, 108, 112, 116) sts** using a stretchy method (e.g. long-tail). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for beginning of round.

> ✅ **Check:** Cast-on must be a multiple of 4 for k2p2 rib. 100, 104, 108, 112, 116 are all divisible by 4. ✓

**Rib round:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Continue in k2p2 rib until work measures **9 cm (3½")** from cast-on edge.

> 💡 The mockneck is the star of this jumper. Keep your rib tension even and firm so the neck stands up neatly. The smaller needle gives it structure.

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## Set-Up for Raglan Yoke

Change to **4.0 mm** circular needle.

Distribute the neck stitches and place raglan markers on the next round as follows. The 4 raglan markers separate Back, Sleeve, Front, Sleeve. (Beginning of round marker sits at the start of the Back.)

**Set-up round** (showing st distribution: Back, Sleeve, Front, Sleeve):

| Size | Back | (pm) Sleeve | (pm) Front | (pm) Sleeve | (pm) | Total |
|------|------|--------|--------|--------|------|-------|
| S    | 32 | 18 | 32 | 18 | | 100 |
| M    | 34 | 18 | 34 | 18 | | 104 |
| L    | 34 | 20 | 34 | 20 | | 108 |
| XL   | 36 | 20 | 36 | 20 | | 112 |
| 2XL  | 36 | 22 | 36 | 22 | | 116 |

To work the set-up round: k Back sts, pm; k Sleeve sts, pm; k Front sts, pm; k Sleeve sts, pm (this last marker = beginning of round).

> ✅ **Check (S):** 32 + 18 + 32 + 18 = 100. ✓ (M: 34+18+34+18 = 104 ✓; L: 34+20+34+20 = 108 ✓; XL: 36+20+36+20 = 112 ✓; 2XL: 36+22+36+22 = 116 ✓)

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## Raglan Yoke

Raglan increases add **8 sts every other round** (1 st each side of all 4 markers).

**Increase round:** *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * around. (8 sts increased.)

**Plain round:** Knit all sts.

Work **Increase round** and **Plain round** alternately a total of **[27 (29, 31, 33, 35)]** increase rounds in all.

After all increase rounds, you will have:

| Size | Total sts | Back | Sleeve (each) | Front |
|------|-----------|------|---------------|-------|
| S    | 316 | 86 | 72 | 86 |
| M    | 336 | 92 | 76 | 92 |
| L    | 356 | 96 | 82 | 96 |
| XL   | 376 | 102 | 86 | 102 |
| 2XL  | 396 | 106 | 92 | 106 |

> ✅ **Check (S):** Start 100 sts + (27 × 8) = 100 + 216 = 316 sts. ✓
> Back: 32 + 27 = 59... wait — each raglan adds to both adjacent sections. Per section growth = number of increase rounds. Back = 32 + 27 = **59?** Correction below.

> ⚠️ **Math correction & clarification:** Each Back/Front section gains 1 st per increase round (2 raglan edges, but Back/Front each touch 2 markers → +2 per round? No). Let me state the verified distribution clearly:

Each **increase round** adds 1 st to **each side of each marker** = 2 sts per section per round (since each section is bordered by 2 markers). Therefore over **n** increase rounds:
- Back gains 2n, Front gains 2n, each Sleeve gains 2n.
- Total gain = 8n. ✓

**Verified final counts (n = 27 for S):**
- Back: 32 + (2×27) = 32 + 54 = 86 ✓
- Front: 32 + 54 = 86 ✓
- Each Sleeve: 18 + 54 = 72 ✓
- Total: 86 + 86 + 72 + 72 = 316 ✓

All sizes in the table above are verified by this method:
- M (n=29): Back 34+58=92, Sleeve 18+58=76 → 92+92+76+76 = 336 ✓
- L (n=31): Back 34+62=96, Sleeve 20+62=82 → 96+96+82+82 = 356 ✓
- XL (n=33): Back 36+66=102, Sleeve 20+66=86 → 102+102+86+86 = 376 ✓
- 2XL (n=35): Back 36+70=106, Sleeve 22+70=92 → 106+106+92+92 = 396 ✓

**Yoke depth check:** Increase rounds + plain rounds = 27×2 = 54 rounds ≈ 17 cm (6¾") for S, increasing to ~22 cm (8¾") for 2XL — appropriate raglan depth for these chest sizes.

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## Separate Sleeves and Body

On the next round, separate as follows. You will cast on underarm stitches at each underarm to join Front and Back and add ease.

**Underarm cast-on:** **9 (10, 12, 14, 15) sts** at each underarm.

Working from beginning of round (Back):
1. Knit across Back sts.
2. Place the next Sleeve sts on waste yarn/holder.
3. Using backward-loop or cable cast-on, cast on **9 (10, 12, 14, 15)** underarm sts; pm at centre for new side "seam".
4. Knit across Front sts.
5. Place the next Sleeve sts on waste yarn/holder.
6. Cast on **9 (10, 12, 14, 15)** underarm sts.
7. Join to work body in the round.

**Body stitch count** = Back + Front + (2 × underarm cast-on):

| Size | Back+Front | Underarm ×2 | Body sts |
|------|-----------|-------------|----------|
| S    | 172 | 18 | 190 |
| M    | 184 | 20 | 204 |
| L    | 192 | 24 | 216 |
| XL   | 204 | 28 | 232 |
| 2XL  | 212 | 30 | 242 |

> ✅ **Bust check (S):** 190 sts ÷ 24 sts × 10 cm = 79 cm... this is the *underarm* circumference. Hmm — this would be too small.

> ⚠️ **Verification flag — adjustment for correct finished bust:** To achieve finished bust of 91 (101, 111, 122, 132) cm at the recommended tension, body stitch count must be:
> - 91 cm × 24 ÷ 10 = **218 sts (S)**
> - 101 cm → **242 sts (M)**
> - 111 cm → **266 sts (L)**
> - 122 cm → **292 sts (XL)**
> - 132 cm → **316 sts (2XL)**

Since the raglan must therefore reach the correct Back/Front width, the **Back/Front after the yoke must each be larger**, OR additional underarm stitches are cast on. To keep the beginner instructions simple and the maths clean, we use **larger underarm cast-ons**, revising the separation step:

**Revised underarm cast-on:** **23 (29, 37, 44, 52) sts** at each underarm.

**Revised body stitch count** = (Back + Front) + (2 × underarm cast-on):

| Size | Back+Front | Underarm ×2 | Body sts | Finished bust |
|------|-----------|-------------|----------|---------------|
| S    | 172 | 46 | **218** | 218÷24×10 = 90.8 ≈ 91 cm ✓ |
| M    | 184 | 58 | **242** | 100.8 ≈ 101 cm ✓ |
| L    | 192 | 74 | **266** | 110.8 ≈ 111 cm ✓ |
| XL   | 204 | 88 | **292** | 121.7 ≈ 122 cm ✓ |
| 2XL  | 212 | 104 | **316** | 131.7 ≈ 132 cm ✓ |

> ✅ Use the **revised** underarm cast-on figures above. Half of the underarm sts come before and half after each held sleeve is fine; an odd number simply places one extra st on one side — this is invisible in wear. The held sleeve stitches remain as in the yoke table (S: 72 sts each sleeve, etc.).

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## Body

Work in st st (knit every round) on **4.0 mm** needles, with body stitch count of **218 (242, 266, 292, 316) sts**, until body measures **35 cm (13¾")** from underarm, or 5 cm (2") short of desired total length.

> 💡 For a slightly cropped look, work 30 cm; for a longline/tunic look, work 45 cm. Remember extra length uses more yarn.

**Hem ribbing:** Change to **3.25 mm** needles.
**Rib round:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

> ✅ **Check:** Body counts 218, 242, 266, 292, 316 — all divisible by 2; for k2p2 they must be divisible by 4. 218 ÷ 4 = 54.5 ✗.
> **Fix:** On the first ribbing round, **decrease or increase to the nearest multiple of 4** as follows: work to last few sts and k2tog or M1 once. Adjust to:
> - S: 216 (dec 2)
> - M: 240 (dec 2)
> - L: 264 (dec 2)
> - XL: 292 (no change — 292 ÷ 4 = 73 ✓)
> - 2XL: 316 (no change — 316 ÷ 4 = 79 ✓)
> These tiny adjustments (≤1 cm) do not affect fit.

Work k2p2 rib for **6 cm (2½")**. Cast off loosely in pattern.

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## Sleeves

Both sleeves are worked the same. Transfer one set of held sleeve sts — **72 (76, 82, 86, 92) sts** — onto **4.0 mm** DPNs/long circular.

With RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit **half** of the underarm cast-on sts, knit across the held sleeve sts, then pick up and knit the **remaining half** of the underarm sts. Pm for beginning of round (at underarm centre).

Pick-up totals (sleeve held sts + full underarm cast-on):

| Size | Sleeve sts | + Underarm | Sleeve start total |
|------|-----------|-----------|--------------------|
| S    | 72 | 23 | 95 |
| M    | 76 | 29 | 105 |
| L    | 82 | 37 | 119 |
| XL   | 86 | 44 | 130 |
| 2XL  | 92 | 52 | 144 |

> 💡 If you find a small hole at the underarm join, pick up one extra st in the gap on each side and k2tog on the following round to close it neatly.

**Sleeve shaping (taper to wrist):**
Knit 6 rounds.
**Decrease round:** k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased.)

Repeat the Decrease round every **8th round** a total of **[14 (15, 17, 19, 21)]** times.

Sleeve sts after shaping:

| Size | Start | Decreases (×2) | Cuff sts |
|------|-------|----------------|----------|
| S    | 95 | 28 | 67 |
| M    | 105 | 30 | 75 |
| L    | 119 | 34 | 85 |
| XL   | 130 | 38 | 92 |
| 2XL  | 144 | 42 | 102 |

> ✅ **Check (S):** 95 − (14×2) = 95 − 28 = 67 ✓. Cuff ≈ 67÷24×10 = 28 cm circumference — comfortable. ✓

Continue straight (if needed) until sleeve measures **42 cm (16½")** from underarm, or 6 cm (2½") short of desired length.

**Cuff ribbing:** Change to **3.25 mm** needles. Adjust to nearest multiple of 4 on the first round (dec/inc 1–2 sts):
- S: 68 · M: 76 · L: 84 · XL: 92 · 2XL: 104

**Rib round:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Work for **6 cm (2½")**. Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

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## Finishing

1. Weave in all ends using the tapestry needle.
2. Close any small underarm gaps with a few stitches.
3. **Block** the jumper to the finished measurements — pin to size, mist or wet-block, and allow to dry flat. Blocking evens out the st st and sets the ribbing.

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## Schematic Summary (verified measurements)

| Measure | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Finished bust | 91 | 101 | 111 | 122 | 132 cm |
| Neck circumference | 42 | 43 | 45 | 47 | 48 cm |
| Mockneck height | 9 | 9 | 9 | 9 | 9 cm |
| Yoke depth | 17 | 18 | 20 | 21 | 22 cm |
| Body length (underarm to hem) | 41 | 41 | 41 | 41 | 41 cm |
| Sleeve length (underarm to cuff) | 48 | 48 | 48 | 48 | 48 cm |
| Cuff circumference | 28 | 32 | 35 | 38 | 43 cm |

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### Designer's Notes
- This is a **raglan**, not a drop-shoulder — the diagonal increase lines give a neat, fitted shoulder exactly as requested.
- The **9 cm mockneck stands up** and won't fold; if you'd prefer it taller but still non-folding, go no higher than 10 cm.
- Choose a **soft, next-to-skin fibre** — the neck sits against your skin all day.
- For a "classic" plain look, leave the body and sleeves in stocking stitch; this beginner pattern is also a perfect blank canvas for simple stripes later.

Happy knitting! 🧶