The Hartley Cardigan

A seamless top-down raglan cardigan in worsted-weight yarn

Skill level: Intermediate

A classic crew-neck cardigan worked in one piece from the neck down. Four raglan lines shape the yoke; sleeves are set aside while the body is knitted to the hem, then the sleeves are worked in the round. Ribbed button bands are picked up along the front edges. Intended to be worn with 6–10 cm (2½–4 in) of positive ease at the chest.

Sizes

To fit bust: 86–91 (96–102, 107–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) in

Shown as: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

Choose the size whose finished chest is 6–10 cm (2½–4 in) larger than your actual bust measurement.

Finished measurements

Measurements are of the blocked garment, buttoned (bands overlap).

Yarn

Worsted-weight (Aran / 10-ply) yarn; approximately 200 m / 100 g.

Metres: 1150 (1300, 1450, 1650, 1850) m Yards: 1260 (1420, 1590, 1800, 2020) yd Grams: 575 (650, 725, 825, 925) g

Allow 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) × 100 g balls at 200 m / 100 g.

Use a smooth, plied wool or wool-blend that holds ribbing and shows raglan lines clearly. A slightly felted or rustic Aran will also work if tension is matched.

Needles

• 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, 80–100 cm long, for the body
• 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, 40 cm long, or double-pointed needles, for the sleeves
• 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needle, 80–100 cm long, for neck, hem and button bands
• 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needle, 40 cm, or double-pointed needles, for cuffs

Use the Magic Loop method on a long circular if you prefer not to change to double-pointed needles.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers
• Waste yarn or stitch holders (2)
• 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons, 18–20 mm diameter
• Tapestry needle
• Spare 4.5 mm needle for a stretchy cast-off (optional)

Tension (gauge)

18 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 5 mm needles, after blocking.

Tension square

Using 5 mm needles, cast on 36 stitches. Work 30 rows in stocking stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows). Cast off. Wash the square the same way you will wash the cardigan and lay it flat to dry. Measure 10 cm (4 in) in the centre of the square.

• If you have more than 18 sts to 10 cm, your stitches are too small — try 5.5 mm needles.
• If you have fewer than 18 sts to 10 cm, your stitches are too large — try 4.5 mm needles.

Row tension affects yoke depth and overall length. If your row count differs, work the yoke and body to the centimetre measurements, not the implied row counts.

Tension is critical for fit. A difference of 1 stitch per 10 cm changes the chest by about 5–6 cm.

Abbreviations

CO — cast on k — knit p — purl st(s) — stitch(es) RS — right side WS — wrong side pm — place marker slm — slip marker M1R — make 1 right: lift the strand between needles from back to front and knit it through the front loop (right-leaning increase) M1L — make 1 left: lift the strand between needles from front to back and knit it through the back loop (left-leaning increase) k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) ssk — slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit the 2 slipped stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease) yo — yarn over st st — stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS; in the round, knit every round) rib — k2, p2 ribbing as set rep — repeat foll — following rem — remaining rnd(s) — round(s) w&t — wrap and turn (not used in this pattern)

Pattern notes

• The cardigan is worked flat from the neck to the hem. Sleeves are worked in the round.
• Cast-on order, reading a RS row left to right: Right Front, Right Sleeve, Back, Left Sleeve, Left Front.
• Slip the first stitch of every flat row purlwise with yarn in front. This chain selvedge makes picking up the button bands even and neat. The slipped stitch is included in the stated stitch counts.
• Raglan increases lean towards the marker (M1R before the marker, M1L after it), forming a clean 2-stitch ridge.
• Work all WS rows as purl, slipping markers. Do not increase on WS rows.
• Instructions are for S with M, L, XL and 2XL in brackets. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
• Stitch counts are given at every shaping stage and marked with a tick (✓) when the arithmetic has been checked.

Instructions

Neckband

With 4.5 mm circular needle and using a long-tail cast-on, CO 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Rib row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

These 2 rows set k2, p2 rib. Continue in rib until the neckband measures 3 cm (1¼ in), ending after a WS row.

Change to 5 mm circular needle.

Yoke

Set-up / first raglan increase

The first RS row places the four raglan markers and works the first increase at each raglan line.

Inc Row A, set-up (RS): K17 (18, 19, 20, 21), M1R, pm, M1L, k4 (6, 8, 10, 12), M1R, pm, M1L, k34 (36, 38, 40, 42), M1R, pm, M1L, k4 (6, 8, 10, 12), M1R, pm, M1L, k17 (18, 19, 20, 21).

8 sts increased → 84 (92, 100, 108, 116) sts ✓ (76 + 8 = 84; 84 + 8 = 92; 92 + 8 = 100; 100 + 8 = 108; 108 + 8 = 116 ✓)

Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Markers now divide the work: Right Front | Right Sleeve | Back | Left Sleeve | Left Front.

Full raglan increases

Inc Row A (RS): *Knit to marker, M1R, slm, M1L; rep from * 3 times more, knit to end. (8 sts increased)

Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Work Inc Row A on the next 22 (25, 28, 31, 33) RS rows (that is, every RS row), purling every WS row.

Total Inc Row A worked (including set-up): 23 (26, 29, 32, 34) times.

8 sts × 23 (26, 29, 32, 34) = 184 (208, 232, 256, 272) sts increased. CO 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) + those increases → 260 (292, 324, 356, 380) sts ✓

Section counts after all Inc Row A:

Check: S 40 + 50 + 80 + 50 + 40 = 260 ✓ M 44 + 58 + 88 + 58 + 44 = 292 ✓ L 48 + 66 + 96 + 66 + 48 = 324 ✓ XL 52 + 74 + 104 + 74 + 52 = 356 ✓ 2XL 55 + 80 + 110 + 80 + 55 = 380 ✓

Sleeve-only increases (S, M, L only)

These rows add stitches to the sleeves only, so the body stays at its target width while the yoke reaches the correct depth.

Inc Row B (RS — sleeves only): Knit to marker, slm, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slm, knit to next marker, slm, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slm, knit to end. (4 sts increased)

Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

• Size S: Work Inc Row B every RS row 3 times. 260 + (4 × 3) = 272 sts ✓
• Size M: Work Inc Row B every RS row 2 times. 292 + (4 × 2) = 300 sts ✓
• Size L: Work Inc Row B once. 324 + 4 = 328 sts ✓
• Sizes XL and 2XL: Skip Inc Row B.

Section counts after Inc Row B (S, M, L):

S 40 + 56 + 80 + 56 + 40 = 272 ✓ M 44 + 62 + 88 + 62 + 44 = 300 ✓ L 48 + 68 + 96 + 68 + 48 = 328 ✓

Body-only increase (2XL only)

Inc Row C (RS — body only): Knit to marker, M1R, slm, knit to next marker, slm, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slm, knit to next marker, slm, M1L, knit to end. (4 sts increased)

Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Work Inc Row C once. 380 + 4 = 384 sts ✓

2XL section counts after Inc Row C: each Front 56, each Sleeve 80, Back 112. 56 + 80 + 112 + 80 + 56 = 384 ✓

Yoke checkpoint

Yoke should measure approximately 22 (23.5, 25, 26.5, 29) cm / 8¾ (9¼, 9¾, 10½, 11½) in from the cast-on edge. If you are short of this depth, work extra even rows (knit RS, purl WS, no increases) before dividing. If you have already reached the depth, divide on the next RS row even if a listed increase remains — in that case, skip the leftover increase and proceed (the underarm cast-on will absorb a small difference).

Stitches on the needle before dividing: 272 (300, 328, 356, 384) sts ✓

Divide body and sleeves

Worked on a RS row.

Divide row (RS): Knit 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) right-front sts.

Slip the next 56 (62, 68, 74, 80) right-sleeve sts onto waste yarn, removing the two markers that enclosed them.

Using a cable cast-on, CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts.

Knit 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) back sts.

Slip the next 56 (62, 68, 74, 80) left-sleeve sts onto waste yarn, removing the two markers.

Cable CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts.

Knit remaining 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) left-front sts.

Body stitches: 40 + 8 + 80 + 8 + 40 = 176 (S) ✓ 44 + 10 + 88 + 10 + 44 = 196 (M) ✓ 48 + 12 + 96 + 12 + 48 = 216 (L) ✓ 52 + 14 + 104 + 14 + 52 = 236 (XL) ✓ 56 + 16 + 112 + 16 + 56 = 256 (2XL) ✓

176 (196, 216, 236, 256) body sts remain.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Body

Continue in stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS), keeping the chain selvedge, until the body measures 34 (35, 36, 37, 38) cm / 13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15) in from the underarm divide, ending after a WS row.

The remaining 6 cm (2½ in) is the hem ribbing, for a total underarm-to-hem length of 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm / 15¾ (16¼, 16½, 17, 17¼) in.

Hem

Change to 4.5 mm circular needle.

Rib row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. (176, 196, 216, 236, 256 are all multiples of 4 ✓)

Rib row 2 (WS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Continue in k2, p2 rib as set until the hem measures 6 cm (2½ in), ending after a WS row.

Cast off loosely in rib on the RS. (Use a larger needle or a sewn/Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy cast-off if your ribbing tends to pull in.)

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

Return the 56 (62, 68, 74, 80) held sleeve stitches to 5 mm needles for working in the round (short circular, DPNs, or Magic Loop).

With RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts along the first half of the underarm, knit the held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts along the second half of the underarm. Place a marker for the beginning of the round (centre underarm).

64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts ✓ (56 + 8 = 64; 62 + 10 = 72; 68 + 12 = 80; 74 + 14 = 88; 80 + 16 = 96 ✓)

If a small hole appears at either underarm corner, pick up one extra stitch in the gap and decrease it on the next round (k2tog or ssk at the corner) so that you still have 64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts.

Knit 5 rounds even.

Sleeve decreases

Decreases are worked either side of the underarm marker.

Dec rnd: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Work the Dec rnd on the next round, then every 6th (5th, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 13 (15, 17, 21, 23) times more.

Decreases: 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) rounds × 2 sts = 28 (32, 36, 44, 48) sts decreased. 64 − 28 = 36 (S) ✓ 72 − 32 = 40 (M) ✓ 80 − 36 = 44 (L) ✓ 88 − 44 = 44 (XL) ✓ 96 − 48 = 48 (2XL) ✓

36 (40, 44, 44, 48) sts remain.

Continue without shaping until the sleeve measures 38 (39, 40, 40, 41) cm / 15 (15¼, 15¾, 15¾, 16¼) in from the underarm, or 6 cm (2½ in) less than the desired finished sleeve length.

Cuff

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end. (36, 40, 44, 44, 48 are all multiples of 4 ✓)

Work in k2, p2 rib until the cuff measures 6 cm (2½ in).

Cast off loosely in rib.

Work the second sleeve the same way.

Button bands

Bands are worked in k2, p2 rib on 4.5 mm needles. Pickup rate is approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows. The counts below are multiples of 4 plus 2, so each band begins and ends with k2.

6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons. Buttonholes sit on the right front (as worn) — standard women’s / unisex buttoning. For men’s buttoning, work the buttonholes on the left front instead.

Left front band (button band — no holes)

With RS facing, 4.5 mm needle and starting at the neck edge of the left front, pick up and knit 114 (118, 122, 126, 134) sts evenly down the left front selvedge to the hem.

Row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 until the band measures 3.5 cm (1½ in), ending after a WS row (about 8 rows after pickup).

Cast off in rib.

Right front band (buttonhole band)

With RS facing, 4.5 mm needle and starting at the hem edge of the right front, pick up and knit 114 (118, 122, 126, 134) sts evenly up the right front selvedge to the neck.

Work Row 1 (WS) and Row 2 (RS) as for the left band, then work Row 1 once more. (3 rows of rib after pickup; next row is RS.)

Place buttonholes

On the RS, mark the positions of 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttonholes:

• First hole 3 sts from the neck edge
• Last hole 4 sts from the hem edge
• Remaining 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) holes spaced evenly between them

Buttonhole row (RS): *Rib to 1 st before the marked stitch, k2tog, yo; rep from * for each buttonhole, rib to end.

(Each yo + k2tog pair sits in a knit column of the rib and forms a 1-stitch hole suitable for an 18–20 mm button.)

Starting with a WS row, work 4 more rows in rib as set. Cast off in rib on the RS.

Band width should match the left front.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends, using yarn tails at the underarms to close any remaining gaps.
2. Wet-block the cardigan to the finished measurements. Pin the fronts straight, the raglan lines in a smooth diagonal, and the sleeves to length. Allow to dry completely.
3. Sew buttons to the left front band, opposite the buttonholes.
4. If the neckband ends sit slightly proud of the button bands, tack them down on the WS with a few stitches.

Schematic (key dimensions)

                    back neck 19 (20, 21, 22, 23.5) cm
                 ______________
                /   raglan     \
               /  yoke depth    \
              /  22 (23.5, 25,   \
             /   26.5, 29) cm     \
            /______________________\
            |                      |
            |     chest, buttoned  |
            |  98 (109, 120,       |
            |   131, 142) cm       |   total length
            |                      |   62 (64.5, 67, 69.5, 73) cm
            |  underarm to hem     |
            |  40 (41, 42, 43, 44) |
            |______________________|

Sleeves: upper arm 35.5 (40, 44.5, 49, 53.5) cm
         length 44 (45, 46, 46, 47) cm

Stitch-count summary (quick reference)

Tips for an intermediate first raglan

• Put a locking marker in the fabric at the start of the yoke and measure depth from there, not from the needle.
• Count after every 4th increase row: each full Inc A adds 8 sts, so the total grows 76 → 84 → 92 → 100… in steps of 8 on size S from the CO, and in steps of 8 from 84 after the set-up row.
• If M1R/M1L feel tight, work them in the row below’s running thread without twisting the wrong way — a twisted M1 leaves a small hole, which is preferable to a missed increase.
• Button bands that flare: you picked up too many stitches. Bands that pull the front short: too few. 3 sts per 4 rows is the starting point; adjust by 4 sts (to keep the 4n+2 rib) if needed.

Enjoy your Hartley Cardigan.