The Meridian Camisole

A Fitted V-Neck Cropped Tank with Seamless Triangular Cups

A clean, minimalist camisole worked in dense double crochet for a smooth, structured fabric. The body is crocheted seamlessly in the round from hem to underbust, then two symmetrical triangular cups are worked from the center outward and joined to the front. Slim double-crochet i-cord straps finish the look and adjust to your torso. Perfect for layering or wearing solo.

Skill Level: Easy–Intermediate

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4 medium), 100% cotton, solid color.
  • Approx. yardage by size:
    • XS: 550 yd | S: 600 yd | M: 675 yd | L: 750 yd | XL: 825 yd
    • 2XL: 900 yd | 3XL: 975 yd | 4XL: 1,050 yd | 5XL: 1,125 yd
• Hook: US H/8 (5.0 mm), plus US G/6 (4.0 mm) for edging and i-cord straps
• Notions:
  • Tapestry needle
  • 4 stitch markers
  • 4 small buttons (½" / 13 mm) for adjustable straps
  • Scissors

GAUGE

14 dc × 8 rows = 4" (10 cm) in double crochet, using H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, worked in the round.

• Stitches per inch: 3.5
• Rows per inch: 2

Gauge is critical for fit. Make a 5" × 5" swatch and block before starting. Cotton relaxes when blocked.

SIZES & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Designed with ~2" (5 cm) negative ease for a fitted look. Choose your size by finished bust.

Math check: Finished bust × 3.5 sts/in = body stitch count. Example (M): 38 × 3.5 = 133 ✓. (XS): 30 × 3.5 = 105 ✓.

Throughout the pattern, sizes are written: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)

• ch — chain
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• dc — double crochet
• dc2tog — double crochet 2 together (decrease)
• rnd — round
• rep — repeat
• RS / WS — right side / wrong side
• BLO — back loop only
• ** ** ** — repeat instructions between asterisks

PATTERN NOTES

• Body is worked in joined rounds (turn at each join for even fabric) from the hem up.
• Cups are worked flat, from a central spine outward, as symmetrical triangles.
• Turning/beginning chain: The ch-3 at the start of each round/row counts as the first dc.
• Work in both loops unless noted (hem uses BLO for a clean edge).
• Stitch counts are given in parentheses at the end of each round/row.
• Straps are worked as dc i-cords (a slim narrow tube) and adjust via button loops.

SPECIAL STITCHES

DC i-cord (2-st): Ch 3. Work as a narrow band 2 dc wide: each row = ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc — but joined at edges to form a rounded cord. Full instructions in the Straps section.

dc2tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] twice, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1 — BODY (worked in the round, bottom-up)

The body is a smooth tube from hem to underbust.

Foundation: With H/8 hook, ch the body stitch count for your size + join: Ch 105 (119, 133, 147, 161, 175, 189, 203, 217), taking care not to twist, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. → 105 (119, 133, 147, 161, 175, 189, 203, 217) sts

Rnds 2–26 (26, 27, 27, 28, 28, 29, 29, 30): Ch 3, dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. Turn at the end of each round. → stitch count unchanged each round.

Length check: rows/inch = 2.

• XS/S: 26 rnds ÷ 2 = 13" ✓
• M/L: 27 rnds ÷ 2 = 13½" ✓
• XL/2XL: 28 rnds ÷ 2 = 14" ✓
• 3XL/4XL: 29 rnds ÷ 2 = 14½" ✓
• 5XL: 30 rnds ÷ 2 = 15" ✓

Fasten off. This completes the body tube.

Fit tip: For a snugger underbust, work the final 3 rounds one hook size down (G/6). For a looser waist, work first 3 rounds one size up.

PART 2 — TRIANGULAR CUPS (make 2, worked flat from center outward)

Each cup is a symmetrical triangle. You begin at the point (top center) and increase down and outward to the wide base, which attaches to the body front. This creates a natural contour when the increases pull the fabric into a shallow cup.

Cup base widths (per cup): 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts wide at base.

These two bases together span the front bust and center the V-neck.

Set-up: With H/8 hook, ch 4.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (ch-3 counts as first dc), giving 2 sts. Turn. → 2 sts

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st (increase), dc in last st, then 2 dc in top of turning ch (increase). Turn. → 4 sts

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in same st (inc), dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st (inc). Turn. → 6 sts

Continue increasing 1 st at each end of every row (2 sts added per row):

• Row 4 → 8 sts
• Row 5 → 10 sts
• Row 6 → 12 sts
• Row 7 → 14 sts
• Row 8 → 16 sts
• Row 9 → 18 sts
• Row 10 → 20 sts — stop here for XS

Continue for larger sizes, one more increase row per 2 sts needed:

• Row 11 → 22 sts — stop for S
• Row 12 → 24 sts — stop for M
• Row 13 → 26 sts — stop for L
• Row 14 → 28 sts — stop for XL
• Row 15 → 30 sts — stop for 2XL
• Row 16 → 32 sts — stop for 3XL
• Row 17 → 34 sts — stop for 4XL
• Row 18 → 36 sts — stop for 5XL

Final row count: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) rows.

Contour shaping (subtle dart): On the last 2 rows only, work the center 2 sts as dc2tog once at the exact center. This pulls the middle inward slightly for a natural bust curve while keeping the base edge count. To keep the base at the target width, add 1 extra dc at each end of those 2 rows. (Net stitch count at base is unchanged.)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Make a second cup identical to the first (they are symmetrical mirror images — the triangle shape is the same for both).

Math check (M): target base = 24 sts. Row 2 = 4 sts, and each row adds 2. Rows 2→12 = (12−2)+... start row 2 at 4 sts, ending row 12 at 24 sts. (4 + 2×10 = 24) ✓.

PART 3 — ASSEMBLING FRONT & CUPS

1. Lay the body tube flat with the join at one side (this becomes a side "seam" reference).
2. Identify the front half of the top round of the body.
3. Place the two cups on the front, points facing up and toward the center, bases sitting along the top edge of the front body. The inner base corners of the two cups meet at center front to form the base of the V-neckline; the outer base corners angle toward the underarms.
4. Leave a center gap between the two cup inner edges — this open "V" is your V-neckline. The cups' side edges form the V.
5. Using the tapestry needle and cup tails, whipstitch the base of each cup to the top front edge of the body, easing evenly.

V-neck placement guide (front width per cup): Total front span = half body sts = ~52 (59, 66, 73, 80, 87, 94, 101, 108) sts. Two cup bases use 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts total, leaving 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36) sts distributed at the outer sides and a small center notch for the deep V.

Deep-V tip: For a deeper V, place cup inner corners slightly farther apart; for a modest V, bring them closer.

PART 4 — I-CORD SHOULDER STRAPS (make 2, adjustable)

Straps attach at the point (top) of each cup and cross over the shoulder to the back edge of the body.

Strap length: Default 12" (30 cm) finished before adjustment. Measure over your own shoulder from cup point to back body edge and adjust as needed.

Work the i-cord (slim dc band):

With G/6 hook, ch 3.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Turn. → 1 dc (2 sts incl. turning ch)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next st. Turn. → 2 sts

Rep Row 2 until strap measures 12" (or your custom length). At H/8 row gauge this is roughly 24 rows (2 rows/inch × 12").

Fasten off, leaving a 10" tail.

Attach front end: Sew the starting edge of each strap securely to the top point of the corresponding cup.

Make adjustable back end:

1. On the back top edge of the body, sew 2 small buttons per strap, spaced 1" apart vertically, at the point where each strap will land.
2. At the free end of each strap, create a button loop: ch a loop long enough to slip over a button (about ch 6), sl st back to the strap end to close the loop.
3. Button the strap into either button hole to shorten or lengthen as desired.

Symmetry tip: Try on the top and pin strap placement before sewing buttons, ensuring both straps sit at matching points.

PART 5 — EDGING

A tidy single-crochet border stabilizes the neckline, armholes, and hem.

Neckline & armhole edging: With G/6 hook and RS facing, join yarn at one underarm. Rnd 1: Work sc evenly around the entire top edge — up the cup side edges, around the V-neck notch, across each cup base gap, and along the back top edge. Work approximately 1 sc per st and 2 sc per row-end. Join with sl st. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with sl st. Fasten off.

Keep the V-neck point crisp by working a single sc directly in the center-most stitch of the V, then continuing evenly up the other side.

Hem edging (optional clean edge): With G/6 hook and RS facing, join at the bottom edge. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st (in the BLO of the foundation edge) around, join with sl st. Fasten off. → 105 (119, 133, 147, 161, 175, 189, 203, 217) sc.

FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends with the tapestry needle.
2. Block the finished top: wet or steam block to relax the cotton and even out stitches. Pin the cups to a gentle curve and the V-neck to a crisp point.
3. Let dry fully before wearing.
4. Try on; adjust strap buttons for a custom fit.

FINAL STITCH-COUNT SUMMARY

Verification:

• Bust: 133 body sts ÷ 3.5 sts/in = 38" (Size M) ✓
• Length: 27 rnds ÷ 2 rows/in = 13.5" (Size M) ✓
• Cup base: begins 4 sts (Row 2), +2 per row × 10 rows = 24 sts (Size M) ✓

Enjoy your Meridian Camisole — a smooth, fitted, minimalist piece made just for you.