purlJam

# 🌸 The Petal Kimono Cardigan
### A Beginner-Friendly Crochet Kimono-Style Cardigan

A relaxed, open-front T-shaped cardigan worked entirely in simple rectangles using half double crochet. No complicated shaping — if you can chain, hdc, and sew a straight seam, you can make this!

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## 📋 Skill Level
**Easy / Beginner** — worked flat in straight rectangles, simple seaming.

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## 🧶 Materials

| Item | Details |
|------|---------|
| **Yarn** | Worsted weight (Medium #4) cotton or cotton blend |
| **Yardage** | XS: 1100 yds • S: 1250 yds • M: 1400 yds • L: 1550 yds • 2XL: 1700 yds |
| **Hook** | US H-8 / 5.0 mm (main fabric) + US G-6 / 4.0 mm (border, optional) |
| **Notions** | Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape |
| **Optional closures** | 1–2 buttons, toggle, or a fabric tie/sash |

*Suggested fiber: 100% cotton worsted gives lovely structure and breathability. A cotton/acrylic blend adds a touch more drape if preferred.*

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## 📐 Gauge

**14 hdc × 11 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in half double crochet.

> ✅ **Gauge math:** 14 sts ÷ 4" = **3.5 sts per inch**; 11 rows ÷ 4" = **2.75 rows per inch**.

Always make a gauge swatch! Gauge is forgiving here due to the oversized fit, but it affects yardage and final size.

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## ✏️ Abbreviations (US Terms)

| Abbr. | Meaning |
|-------|---------|
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| sc | single crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| sk | skip |

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## 📏 Length Required

- **Body length (hem to shoulder):** 24" (61 cm) — standard hip length
- **Sleeve length:** 18" (45.5 cm) — full length
- To lengthen/shorten body: add or remove rows (1 row ≈ 0.36"). 3 rows ≈ 1".

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## 📊 Sizes & Finished Measurements

This cardigan is designed with **generous ease** (6–10" positive ease). Choose your size based on your actual bust measurement plus desired roominess.

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### 🌷 FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (shown in Dusty Pink)

| Size | Bust Circumference | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Sleeve Width |
|------|-------------------|-------------|---------------|--------------|
| **XS** | 36" (91 cm) | 24" (61 cm) | 18" (45.5 cm) | 16" (40.5 cm) |
| **S**  | 40" (101.5 cm) | 24" (61 cm) | 18" (45.5 cm) | 16" (40.5 cm) |
| **M**  | 44" (112 cm) | 25" (63.5 cm) | 18" (45.5 cm) | 16" (40.5 cm) |
| **L**  | 48" (122 cm) | 25" (63.5 cm) | 18" (45.5 cm) | 17" (43 cm) |
| **2XL**| 52" (132 cm) | 26" (66 cm) | 18" (45.5 cm) | 17" (43 cm) |

*Bust = full back width + two front widths (open cardigan, measured laid flat ×2).*

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> ✅ **Bust check (XS):** Back 18" + Front 9" + Front 9" = **36"** ✓
> ✅ **Bust check (2XL):** Back 26" + Front 13" + Front 13" = **52"** ✓

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## 🧵 KEY STITCH COUNTS PER SIZE

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | 2XL |
|-------------|----|----|----|----|----|
| Back width (sts) | 63 | 70 | 77 | 84 | 91 |
| Each Front (sts) | 32 | 35 | 39 | 42 | 46 |
| Body rows | 66 | 66 | 69 | 69 | 72 |
| Sleeve width (sts) | 56 | 56 | 56 | 60 | 60 |
| Sleeve rows | 50 | 50 | 50 | 50 | 50 |

> ✅ **Back stitch math (XS):** 18" × 3.5 sts = 63 sts ✓
> ✅ **Sleeve width math (XS):** 16" × 3.5 = 56 sts ✓
> ✅ **Body row math (XS):** 24" × 2.75 = 66 rows ✓

*Note: Each front is approximately half the back stitch count (rounded for the turning chain).*

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## 🪡 PATTERN

The cardigan is made of **5 rectangles**: 1 Back, 2 Fronts, 2 Sleeves. There is **NO armhole or shoulder shaping** — this is what gives it the easy kimono "T" shape.

**Foundation note:** Begin each piece with a starting chain. The turning ch-2 at the start of each row does NOT count as a stitch.

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### 1️⃣ BACK (make 1)

**Ch** [Back width + 1]:
XS: ch 64 • S: ch 71 • M: ch 78 • L: ch 85 • 2XL: ch 92.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn.
- Stitch count = Back width: XS 63 • S 70 • M 77 • L 84 • 2XL 91.

**Row 2 and all following rows:** Ch 2 (does not count as st), hdc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures **Body Length** (XS/S 24", M/L 25", 2XL 26").
- Total rows: XS/S 66 • M/L 69 • 2XL 72.

Fasten off.

> ✅ **Check:** 66 rows ÷ 2.75 rows/inch = 24" ✓

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### 2️⃣ FRONTS (make 2 — they are identical/mirror)

**Ch** [Front width + 1]:
XS: ch 33 • S: ch 36 • M: ch 40 • L: ch 43 • 2XL: ch 47.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn.
- Stitch count = Front width: XS 32 • S 35 • M 39 • L 42 • 2XL 46.

**Row 2 onward:** Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat until front measures the SAME number of rows as the Back (so seams match).

Fasten off. **Make a second front the same way.**

> 💡 **Optional simple neckline:** To create a gentle V at the front neck, on the **last 6 rows** of each front, decrease 1 st at the neck edge (inner edge) every other row by working the first 2 sts together (hdc2tog). This is optional — for a true beginner kimono, you can leave the fronts as plain rectangles and the open front simply drapes.

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### 3️⃣ SLEEVES (make 2) — *Wide Rectangular Kimono Sleeves*

Kimono sleeves are **wide rectangles** — they do **NOT taper**. Same width top to bottom.

**Ch** [Sleeve width + 1]:
XS/S/M: ch 57 • L/2XL: ch 61.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn.
- Stitch count: XS/S/M 56 • L/2XL 60.

**Row 2 onward:** Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until sleeve measures **18" (45.5 cm)** — approximately **50 rows**.

Fasten off.

> ✅ **Check:** 50 rows ÷ 2.75 = 18" ✓
> 💡 **Want 3/4 sleeves?** Work to 14" (~38 rows). **Short/cap sleeves?** Work to 8" (~22 rows).

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## 🪢 ASSEMBLY

Lay all pieces flat with **wrong sides up**. Use a tapestry needle and mattress stitch or whip stitch for seams.

**Step 1 — Shoulder seams:**
Lay the Back flat. Place a Front piece on each side at the top edge, RS together with the Back. Seam straight across the **outer 7" (about 24 sts)** of each shoulder, leaving the center open for the neck.
> ✅ Neck opening = Back width − (2 × shoulder seam). XS: 63 − 48 = 15 sts ≈ 4.3" each side gives a comfortable neck. ✓

**Step 2 — Attach sleeves (perpendicular / right angle):**
Find the center of the sleeve top edge and align it with the **shoulder seam**. Pin the sleeve flat against the body edge — it attaches at a **right angle**, creating the dropped-shoulder T-shape. Seam across.
> ✅ Sleeve top (16") centers over shoulder seam — sleeve hangs straight down. This is the signature kimono construction (no armhole shaping).

**Step 3 — Side seams:**
Fold the garment at the shoulders so fronts and back line up. Seam each side from the **hem up to the underarm** (where the sleeve begins).

**Step 4 — Sleeve underseams:**
Continue seaming each sleeve from the underarm to the cuff.

**Step 5 — Weave in all ends** before bordering.

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## 🌸 BORDER PATTERN

The border is worked **continuously** around both front edges and the back neck, then optionally around the cuffs and hem. Use the **G-6 / 4.0 mm hook** for a neat edge.

**Round 1 (Foundation – Single Crochet):**
With RS facing, join yarn at the bottom corner of one front. Work **sc evenly** up the right front, around the back neck, and down the left front.
- Tip: work approx **3 sc for every 4 rows** along vertical edges to keep the border from flaring or puckering. Place 3 sc in each corner to turn smoothly.
Do NOT fasten off.

**Round 2 (Shell Edging — decorative):**
Ch 1, turn. *Sk 2 sts, work 5 dc in next st (shell made), sk 2 sts, sl st in next st;* rep from * along the entire edge. Fasten off.

> 💡 **Simpler beginner border:** Skip the shell and instead work **2 rows of sc** all around, then 1 row of **reverse sc (crab stitch)** for a clean, professional finish.

**Cuff & hem edging (optional):**
Work **2 rounds of sc** evenly around each cuff and around the bottom hem to match the front border.

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## 🔘 CLOSURE OPTIONS

- **Open (no closure):** Wear flowing open — most traditional kimono look.
- **Tie/sash:** Crochet two long chains of sc (about 20" each), attach at the front edges at waist height to tie.
- **Single button:** Sew one button to one front edge and use a chain loop or a shell space on the opposite edge as the buttonhole.

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## 🧊 BLOCKING & FINISHING

1. Wet- or steam-block the finished cardigan.
2. Gently stretch and pin to the finished measurements above.
3. Allow to dry completely — blocking opens up the drape, evens out stitches, and relaxes the cotton beautifully.
4. Hang or fold to store.

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## ✅ FINAL MATH SUMMARY (Editor's Verification)

| Check | Result |
|-------|--------|
| Gauge 3.5 sts/in × 18" (XS back) | 63 sts ✓ |
| Body 2.75 rows/in × 24" | 66 rows ✓ |
| Bust XS = 18 + 9 + 9 | 36" ✓ |
| Bust 2XL = 26 + 13 + 13 | 52" ✓ |
| Sleeve 16" × 3.5 sts | 56 sts ✓ |
| Sleeve 18" × 2.75 rows | ~50 rows ✓ |
| No armhole/shoulder/sleeve shaping (kimono confirmed) | ✓ |

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🌷 *Enjoy your handmade Petal Kimono Cardigan! Tag your finished makes and wear it proudly.* 🌷