purlJam

# THE THEA SWEATER
### A Boxy Drop-Shoulder Pullover with Boatneck
*Inspired by knitthekniche · Beginner-friendly · Worsted weight*

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## SIZES

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| To fit bust (cm) | 80–85 | 90–95 | 100–105 | 110–115 | 120–125 |
| Finished bust (cm) | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 |
| Finished bust (in) | 39¼ | 43¼ | 47¼ | 51¼ | 55 |
| Positive ease | approx. 15–20 cm (6–8 in) — boxy fit |

Sample shown in size S with approx. 18 cm (7 in) positive ease.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran/medium, #4). Approx. metreage:
  - S: 950 m / M: 1050 m / L: 1150 m / XL: 1270 m / 2XL: 1400 m
  - (Roughly 9–13 × 100 g balls at ~110 m per ball)
- **Needles:**
  - 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) — main fabric
  - 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) — ribbing
  - Use circular needles (80 cm) for ease, or straight needles
- **Notions:** Stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle.

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm (4 in)** over stocking stitch (st st) using 5 mm needles, after blocking.

*Please knit a tension swatch — accurate tension ensures correct fit.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **st st** – stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS)
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **CO / BO** – cast on / bind (cast) off
- **rep** – repeat
- **PU** – pick up and knit
- **rem** – remaining

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## CONSTRUCTION NOTES

The Thea is a **drop-shoulder pullover** — the boxiest, most relaxed style.

1. **Back** and **Front** are worked flat as plain rectangles with **no armhole shaping**.
2. **Shoulders** are joined by seaming the outer edges, leaving the centre stitches open for the **boatneck**.
3. **Sleeves** are picked up from the straight vertical armhole edge and worked **down to the cuff** — no sleeve cap shaping.

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## STITCH COUNT REFERENCE

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Back/Front CO sts | 90 | 99 | 108 | 117 | 126 |
| Body length to shoulder (cm) | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 |
| Shoulder sts (each side) | 27 | 27 | 27 | 27 | 27 |
| Centre neck sts (held) | 36 | 45 | 54 | 63 | 72 |
| Armhole depth (cm) | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| Sleeve PU sts | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 | 96 |
| Sleeve length to cuff (cm) | 44 | 44 | 45 | 45 | 46 |

*Note: rib is a k1, p1 multiple of 2 — all cast-on counts are even/odd as required; centre-neck counts are balanced so shoulders remain equal (27 + centre + 27 = total).*
*Validation S: 27 + 36 + 27 = 90 ✓. M: 27 + 45 + 27 = 99 ✓. L: 27 + 54 + 27 = 108 ✓. XL: 27 + 63 + 27 = 117 ✓. 2XL: 27 + 72 + 27 = 126 ✓.*

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## BACK

Using **4 mm needles**, CO **90 (99, 108, 117, 126)** sts.

**Note:** For a clean k1, p1 rib, begin/end as below:
- For even counts (S, L, 2XL): *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- For odd counts (M, XL): k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end (rib starts and ends with k1).

Work in k1, p1 rib for **6 cm (2½ in)**.

Change to **5 mm needles**.
Work in st st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures **60 (61, 62, 63, 64) cm** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

*Math check (S): 90 sts ÷ 18 sts per 10 cm = 50 cm width. Width × 2 (front + back) = 100 cm finished bust ✓.*

**Shoulders & Neck:**
- BO all **90 (99, 108, 117, 126)** sts loosely, OR
- Place sts on holders if joining with three-needle bind-off (recommended for tidy shoulders): the outer **27 sts** at each side are the shoulders; the centre **36 (45, 54, 63, 72)** sts form the back neck.

Set aside.

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## FRONT

Work exactly as for the **Back**, including length.

Because this is a **boatneck**, the Front requires **no neck shaping** — it is identical to the Back.

BO or hold sts as for the Back: outer **27 sts** each side = shoulders; centre **36 (45, 54, 63, 72)** sts = front neck.

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## JOINING THE SHOULDERS

With RS together (or using three-needle bind-off with 5 mm needle):

1. Join the **27 shoulder sts** of the right Front to the **27 shoulder sts** of the right Back.
2. Repeat for the left shoulder (**27 sts**).
3. **Leave the centre 36 (45, 54, 63, 72) sts of Front and Back unworked** — this forms the boatneck opening.

*Boatneck opening width (S): 36 sts ÷ 18 = 20 cm (8 in) — comfortably fits over the head.*

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## SLEEVES (worked top-down)

Lay the joined body flat and measure **down from the shoulder seam** along the side edge: **22 (23, 24, 25, 26) cm** on each side of the seam, marking the total armhole depth.

With **5 mm needles** and RS facing, beginning at the underarm, **PU 80 (84, 88, 92, 96)** sts evenly along the straight armhole edge (centre the pick-up on the shoulder seam).

*Pick-up rate: 3 sts per 4 rows. PU 80 sts (S) over an armhole edge of approx. 44 cm (2 × 22 cm) — 80 sts ÷ 18 = 44.4 cm ✓.*

Work in st st, beginning with a **purl (WS)** row.

**Sleeve shaping (decrease):**
Work 6 rows straight.
**Decrease row (RS):** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*
Rep the decrease row **every 8th row** a total of **14 (15, 16, 17, 18)** times.

Stitch count after decreases:
- S: 80 − 28 = **52 sts**
- M: 84 − 30 = **54 sts**
- L: 88 − 32 = **56 sts**
- XL: 92 − 34 = **58 sts**
- 2XL: 96 − 36 = **60 sts**

Continue straight until sleeve measures **40 (40, 41, 41, 42) cm** from the pick-up edge, ending with a WS row.

**Cuff:**
Change to **4 mm needles**.
Work in k1, p1 rib for **4 cm (1½ in)**.
BO loosely in rib.

Total sleeve length ≈ **44 (44, 45, 45, 46) cm** ✓.

Work the **second sleeve** identically on the opposite armhole.

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## NECKBAND (Boatneck Finish)

The boatneck can be finished simply or with a neat ribbed band.

**Optional ribbed band (recommended):**
With **4 mm needles** and RS facing, beginning at one shoulder seam, **PU and k** sts evenly all around the neck opening:
- PU the **36 (45, 54, 63, 72)** front-neck sts + **36 (45, 54, 63, 72)** back-neck sts = **72 (90, 108, 126, 144)** sts total.
- Place a marker and join to work in the round.

Work in k1, p1 rib for **2.5 cm (1 in)**.
BO loosely in rib.

*Total neckband counts are even (multiples of 2) — k1, p1 rib joins cleanly in the round ✓.*

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## FINISHING

1. **Seam the side seams**: with RS together, seam from the cuff edge down the underarm, then continue down the body side to the hem. Use mattress stitch for an invisible join.
2. Weave in all ends neatly.
3. **Block** the finished sweater to the measurements in the Stitch Count Reference table — blocking evens out the stocking stitch and sets the drop-shoulder shape.

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## SCHEMATIC (approximate, size S)

```
        |<------ 50 cm ------>|
        ___________________________
       |        boatneck 20 cm     |   ↑
       |   |___________________|   |   |
       |                           |   | 60 cm body
       |        (st st body)       |   |
       |___________________________|   ↓
       |||||||||| 6 cm rib |||||||||

   Sleeve: PU 80 sts → taper to 52 sts → 4 cm cuff
   Armhole depth: 22 cm each side of shoulder seam
```

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**Congratulations — you've completed the Thea Sweater!**
A relaxed, boxy boatneck pullover that's perfect for everyday layering. Because the construction is all straight lines and simple pick-ups, it's an ideal first sweater. Enjoy your knit!