purlJam

# The Watercolour Kimono Cardigan

*A relaxed, boxy kimono-style cardigan worked flat in simple UK trebles, designed to show off a beautiful multicoloured DK yarn. The T-shaped construction uses five straight rectangles and basic stitches throughout — no shaping, no fuss, just lovely fabric and colour play.*

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## Sizes

| Size | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|---|---|---|---|
| To fit bust | 81–96 cm (32–38") | 101–116 cm (40–46") | 121–137 cm (48–54") |
| Finished bust (open, flat ×2) | 112 cm (44") | 132 cm (52") | 152 cm (60") |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 60 cm (23½") | 62 cm (24½") | 64 cm (25¼") |
| Sleeve length (underarm) | 42 cm (16½") | 42 cm (16½") | 44 cm (17¼") |
| Sleeve width (flat) | 40 cm (15¾") | 42 cm (16½") | 44 cm (17¼") |

Designed with approximately 15–20 cm (6–8") positive ease for an oversized, drapey fit. Instructions are written for size **S/M**, with **L/XL** and **(2XL/3XL)** given in square brackets: `S/M [L/XL (2XL/3XL)]`.

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## Materials

- **Yarn**: DK weight multicoloured / self-striping yarn (cotton, cotton blend, or wool/acrylic blend recommended for drape)
  - Approx. **1200 [1400 (1600)] m / 1310 [1530 (1750)] yds**
  - Typically **6 [7 (8)] × 100 g balls** of a 200 m/100 g DK
- **Hook**: 5 mm (UK 6 / US H-8) — *main hook*
- **Hook**: 4.5 mm — *for border*
- Tapestry/darning needle
- Scissors, stitch markers (4–6), measuring tape
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins

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## Tension (Gauge)

Using 5 mm hook in treble crochet (tr):
**16 sts × 8 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm (4" × 4")** after blocking.

*Tension swatch*: ch 22, tr in 4th ch from hook and each ch across (20 sts including tch). Work 8 further rows of tr. Block and measure. Adjust hook size as needed — **getting tension right is essential for fit**.

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## Abbreviations (UK terminology)

- **ch** – chain
- **ss** – slip stitch
- **dc** – double crochet (US: sc)
- **tr** – treble (US: dc)
- **tch** – turning chain
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **rep** – repeat
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **sp** – space

**Note on turning chain**: Throughout this pattern, the 3-ch turning chain at the start of each row **counts as the first tr**. At the end of each row, work the final tr **into the top of the previous row's turning chain**.

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## Pattern Notes

- The cardigan is worked in **five flat rectangular pieces**: one Back, two Fronts, two Sleeves. There is **no shaping** — no armholes, no shoulders, no sleeve tapering. This is what gives the kimono its boxy T-shape.
- When working with multicoloured/self-striping yarn, for best results join new balls at the **same point in the colour sequence** (or at the side/sleeve seams) to keep colour flow even.
- Count stitches at the end of every row for the first several rows.

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## BACK (make 1)

**Foundation**: With 5 mm hook, ch **93 [109 (125)]**.

**Row 1 (RS)**: tr in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first tr), tr in each ch across. Turn. *90 [106 (122)] sts.*

*✔ Math check: 93 ch − 3 skipped = 90 sts; for L/XL: 109 − 3 = 106; for 2XL/3XL: 125 − 3 = 122. ✓*

**Row 2**: ch 3 (counts as first tr here and throughout), tr in each st across working final tr into top of previous tch. Turn. *90 [106 (122)] sts.*

**Rows 3 – 48 [50 (52)]**: Rep Row 2.

Work should measure approx. **60 [62 (64)] cm** from foundation edge. Fasten off and weave in ends loosely.

*✔ Math check: 48 rows × 1.25 cm/row = 60 cm ✓*

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## LEFT FRONT (make 1)

**Foundation**: With 5 mm hook, ch **48 [56 (64)]**.

**Row 1 (RS)**: tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in each ch across. Turn. *45 [53 (61)] sts.*

**Rows 2 – 48 [50 (52)]**: ch 3, tr in each st across. Turn.

Piece measures approx. **28 [33 (38)] cm** wide × **60 [62 (64)] cm** long. Fasten off.

*✔ Math check: 2 Fronts = 90 [106 (122)] sts total = Back ✓*

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## RIGHT FRONT (make 1)

Work exactly as Left Front. Fasten off.

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

Sleeves are **rectangles** — the same width from cuff to shoulder. Do **not** increase or decrease.

**Foundation**: With 5 mm hook, ch **67 [71 (75)]**.

**Row 1 (RS)**: tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in each ch across. Turn. *64 [68 (72)] sts.*

**Rows 2 – 34 [34 (36)]**: ch 3, tr in each st across. Turn.

Piece measures approx. **40 [42 (44)] cm** wide × **42 [42 (44)] cm** long. Fasten off, leaving a long tail (approx. 60 cm) for seaming.

*✔ Math check: 64 sts ÷ 16 sts/10 cm = 40 cm ✓; 34 rows ÷ 8 rows/10 cm = 42.5 cm ✓*

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## ASSEMBLY

**Block all pieces** to stated measurements before seaming. This is especially important for an oversized, drapey garment.

You will need stitch markers and a tapestry needle. Use **mattress stitch** or a neat **whip stitch** with a length of yarn. Work with RS facing unless stated otherwise.

### Step 1 — Shoulder seams

Lay Back flat, RS up. Lay Left Front and Right Front on top, RS down, aligning top edges and side edges with the Back.

From each outer edge along the top, measure and seam **16 [19 (22)] cm** inward for each shoulder seam (straight, horizontal). This leaves a central neck opening of approx. **24 [28 (32)] cm** across the Back top edge.

*✔ Math check: 2 × 16 cm shoulder + 24 cm neck = 56 cm = back width ✓*

### Step 2 — Attach sleeves

With garment flat and shoulder seams joined, lay the assembled body open, RS up. Place a marker on each side of the body **20 [21 (22)] cm** down from the shoulder seam (this is the underarm point).

Centre the top long edge of each sleeve at the shoulder seam and pin the sleeve top edge evenly between the two underarm markers. The sleeve attaches at a **right angle** to the body — this creates the characteristic dropped-shoulder kimono silhouette.

Seam the top of the sleeve to the body.

*✔ Math check: sleeve width 40 cm = 2 × 20 cm underarm drop ✓*

### Step 3 — Side and sleeve seams

Fold the garment at the shoulder so Fronts meet Back, RS together. In one continuous seam per side:

- Start at the **sleeve cuff**, seam along the underside of the sleeve up to the underarm,
- Continue down the **body side seam** from underarm to hem.

Repeat on the other side. Turn RS out.

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## BORDER / EDGING

With 4.5 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at the **bottom right side seam**.

**Rnd 1**: ch 1, work dc evenly around the entire front opening and neckline:
- up the right front edge: approx. 2 dc per row-end (work 2 dc into side of each tr row),
- around the back neck: 1 dc per st,
- down the left front edge: 2 dc per row-end,
- along the hem: 1 dc per foundation ch, working 3 dc into each bottom corner.
Join with ss to first dc.

**Rnd 2**: ch 1, dc in each dc around, working 3 dc into each of the two bottom corners. Ss to join. Fasten off.

### Cuff edging (both sleeves)

With 4.5 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at sleeve underarm seam.
**Rnd 1**: ch 1, dc evenly around cuff (approx. 2 dc per row-end). Ss to join.
**Rnd 2**: ch 1, dc in each dc around. Ss to join. Fasten off.

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## OPTIONAL TIE CLOSURE

With 5 mm hook, ch **120 [130 (140)]**. Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. Thread through fabric at waist level on each front about 2 cm in from the front edge, or sew ties to each front at natural waist.

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends on the WS using a tapestry needle, splitting plies where possible for a secure finish.
2. Wet-block the finished cardigan: soak in lukewarm water with a little wool wash for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out water (do not wring), lay flat on blocking mats, and pin to finished measurements.
3. Allow to dry completely before wearing.

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## SCHEMATIC (measurements, cm)

```
            ←——— 56 [66 (76)] ———→
          ┌───────────────────────┐  ↑
          │                       │  │
          │         BACK          │  60 [62 (64)]
          │                       │  │
          └───────────────────────┘  ↓

    ←─ 28 [33 (38)] ─→       ←─ 28 [33 (38)] ─→
   ┌───────────────┐         ┌───────────────┐   ↑
   │  LEFT FRONT   │         │  RIGHT FRONT  │   60 [62 (64)]
   └───────────────┘         └───────────────┘   ↓

           ←——— 40 [42 (44)] ———→
          ┌───────────────────────┐   ↑
          │        SLEEVE         │   42 [42 (44)]
          │       (×2)            │   │
          └───────────────────────┘   ↓
```

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Enjoy your handmade Watercolour Kimono — a simple canvas that lets your multicoloured yarn do the talking. Wear it open for everyday ease, or tie it closed for a more tailored silhouette.