Top-Down Raglan Jumper

A seamless crew-neck raglan jumper worked from the top down in DK yarn. The full neck circumference is cast on at the start, the back neck is raised with German short rows, and eight raglan increases are worked every other round until the yoke is complete. Sleeves are then set aside, underarm stitches are cast on, and the body is knitted straight in the round. Each sleeve is worked downwards for 89 rounds before a ribbed cuff. No seaming.

Neckline method: Full-circumference crew neck with German short rows (Method 1). Do not cast on extra front-neck stitches after the short rows.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 86–91 (97–102, 107–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) in

Shown with approximately 5–10 cm (2–4 in) positive ease. Choose the size closest to your bust measurement plus the ease you prefer. Instructions are given for S with M, L, XL and 2XL in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Finished measurements

• Bust / hem circumference: 96.5 (105.5, 114.5, 123.5, 132.5) cm / 38 (41½, 45, 48½, 52¼) in
• Yoke depth at centre front (after short rows, to underarm): 20 (21.5, 22.5, 24, 26) cm / 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10¼) in
• Back neck raise (German short rows): approx. 2.5 cm / 1 in
• Length from underarm to hem: 46 cm / 18 in (adjustable)
• Upper arm circumference: 34.5 (37.5, 40, 43, 47.5) cm / 13½ (14¾, 15¾, 17, 18¾) in
• Sleeve length from underarm (89 stocking-stitch rounds + cuff): approx. 35 cm / 13¾ in
• Cuff circumference (unstretched): 20 (22, 22, 23.5, 25.5) cm / 8 (8½, 8½, 9¼, 10) in
• Neck circumference at cast-on (stocking-stitch tension): 42 (45.5, 49, 53, 56.5) cm / 16½ (18, 19¼, 21, 22¼) in; ribbing draws this in

Straight body — bust and hem share the same stitch count.

Yarn

Weight: DK (double knitting)

Meterage: 1080 (1200, 1320, 1500, 1680) m / 1180 (1310, 1440, 1640, 1840) yds

50 g balls (approx. 120 m / 131 yds each): 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) balls

Wool or a wool-blend DK is recommended for elasticity in the ribbing and clear raglan lines. Use a single solid or semi-solid colour. Change ball quantities if your meterage per ball differs, and buy an extra ball if you lengthen the body or sleeves.

Needles

• 3.5 mm (UK 9) circular needle, 40 cm for the neckband; 80 cm (or the same 40 cm needle) for hem and cuffs
• 4 mm (UK 8) circular needle, 80 cm for yoke and body
• 4 mm (UK 8) and 3.5 mm (UK 9) double-pointed needles, or a long circular for magic loop, for the sleeves

Use needle sizes needed to obtain tension; the ribbing needle should be 0.5 mm smaller than the main needle.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (one unique for the beginning of the round)
• Waste yarn or two stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• Row counter (strongly recommended for the sleeves)

Tension (gauge)

22 stitches and 30 rounds = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch in the round on 4 mm needles, after blocking.

Work a circular tension square: cast on at least 30 sts, join, and knit 40 rounds. Block, then measure the centre 10 cm.

If you have too many stitches to 10 cm, switch to a larger needle; too few, use a smaller needle. Matching tension is essential — the stitch counts below are written for 22 sts/10 cm.

Abbreviations

Techniques

German short rows — MDS (make double stitch): With the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise. Pull the yarn firmly over the right needle to the back so the slipped stitch shows two legs (a double stitch). The yarn is now at the back; bring it to the front again if the next stitch is a purl. On a later row, work both legs of the DS together as one stitch (knit or purl as the row requires). The DS counts as one stitch.

M1R / M1L: Work into the running strand between needles so the new stitch does not leave a hole. M1R leans right; M1L leans left.

Backward-loop cast-on (underarms): Loop the working yarn over your thumb and place it on the right needle. Repeat for the required number of stitches.

Construction overview

Worked in one piece from the top down.

1. Cast on the full crew-neck circumference and work the ribbed neckband in the round.
2. Change to main needles, place four raglan markers, and raise the back only with German short rows.
3. Increase 8 stitches every other round (2 at each raglan line) until the yoke stitch count is reached.
4. Place each sleeve on hold, cast on underarm stitches, and join the body.
5. Knit the body straight to length and finish with 2×2 rib.
6. Return each sleeve, pick up the underarm stitches, work 89 rounds with paired decreases, then rib the cuff.

Try on as you go after the yoke and again during the body and sleeves.

Pattern

Numbers are given S (M, L, XL, 2XL). The 2XL column is 124 cast-on, 436 yoke and 292 body stitches.

Neckband

With 3.5 mm circular needle and using a long-tail cast-on, CO 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and pm for BOR.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in 2×2 rib until the neckband measures 3.5 cm / 1½ in, approximately 12 rounds. Stitch count remains 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) ✓.

Yoke setup

Change to 4 mm circular needle.

Setup rnd: Knit and place raglan markers as follows, slipping the BOR marker as the start of the Back:

K 38 (42, 46, 50, 52) (Back), pm, k 8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (Right Sleeve), pm, k 38 (42, 46, 50, 52) (Front), pm, k 8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (Left Sleeve) to BOR.

Sections: 38 + 8 + 38 + 8 = 92 ✓ (S); 42 + 8 + 42 + 8 = 100 ✓ (M); 46 + 8 + 46 + 8 = 108 ✓ (L); 50 + 8 + 50 + 8 = 116 ✓ (XL); 52 + 10 + 52 + 10 = 124 ✓ (2XL).

The unique BOR marker sits at the start of the Back (left-back raglan). The next three markers are the remaining raglan lines. Four raglan lines in total.

German short rows (back neck raise)

Short rows are worked flat over the Back and into the sleeves (and a little into the Front on the later turns). They add height only — the stitch count does not change. Slip markers as you meet them. The DS counts as one stitch.

Short Row 1 (RS): Knit to the first marker (end of Back), slm, k4, turn.

Short Row 2 (WS): MDS, purl to BOR, slm, p4, turn.

Short Row 3 (RS): MDS, knit to the DS, knit both legs of the DS together, k2, turn.

Short Row 4 (WS): MDS, purl to the DS, purl both legs of the DS together, p2, turn.

Rep Short Rows 3–4 a further 2 times (3 times in total for this pair). You now have 4 turning points each side: 4, 6, 8 and 10 stitches past the back raglan markers.

Closing row (RS): MDS, knit to BOR, knitting each DS as one stitch. Do not turn.

Closing rnd: Knit 1 full round, working any remaining DS as one stitch.

Back neck is raised by 8 short-row rows ≈ 2.5 cm / 1 in. Stitch count is unchanged: 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) ✓.

Do not cast on extra front-neck stitches. The full neck is already on the needles.

Raglan shaping

Raglan increases are worked every other round. Each increase round adds 8 stitches — 2 at each of the 4 raglan lines.

Inc rnd: *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, slm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times (four times in total). 8 sts increased.

Even rnd: Knit.

Work Inc rnd, then Even rnd. This 2-round repeat is worked 30 (32, 34, 36, 39) times in total.

After the first repeat: 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) + 8 = 100 (108, 116, 124, 132) sts ✓.

After all repeats:

• S: 30 inc rnds × 8 = 240 sts increased → 92 + 240 = 332 sts ✓
• M: 32 × 8 = 256 → 100 + 256 = 356 sts ✓
• L: 34 × 8 = 272 → 108 + 272 = 380 sts ✓
• XL: 36 × 8 = 288 → 116 + 288 = 404 sts ✓
• 2XL: 39 × 8 = 312 → 124 + 312 = 436 sts ✓

Section counts at the end of the yoke (each section has gained 2 sts per inc rnd):

Yoke depth at the Front is 60 (64, 68, 72, 78) rounds of raglan shaping ≈ 20 (21.5, 22.5, 24, 26) cm. The Back is about 2.5 cm deeper because of the short rows.

Try on: the raglan lines should reach the top of the underarm. If you need a little more depth, knit even rounds with no further increases before dividing. Do not work extra increase rounds or the body and sleeve counts will no longer match.

Divide body and sleeves

Both sleeves have the same stitch count and are divided evenly.

Divide rnd: Knit 98 (106, 114, 122, 130) Back sts, place the next 68 (72, 76, 80, 88) Right Sleeve sts onto waste yarn or a holder, using a backward-loop (or knitted) cast-on CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts, knit 98 (106, 114, 122, 130) Front sts, place the next 68 (72, 76, 80, 88) Left Sleeve sts onto waste yarn or a holder, CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts. The BOR marker may be placed at the centre of the first underarm if you prefer it at the side; otherwise leave it at the start of the Back.

Body stitch count:

• S: 98 + 8 + 98 + 8 = 212 sts ✓
• M: 106 + 10 + 106 + 10 = 232 sts ✓
• L: 114 + 12 + 114 + 12 = 252 sts ✓
• XL: 122 + 14 + 122 + 14 = 272 sts ✓
• 2XL: 130 + 16 + 130 + 16 = 292 sts ✓

Sleeves on hold: 68 (72, 76, 80, 88) sts each, even ✓.

Body

Working in the round on the 212 (232, 252, 272, 292) body sts, knit every round (stocking stitch) until the body measures 40 cm / 15¾ in from the underarm, or 6 cm / 2¼ in less than the total length you want.

There is no waist shaping. The stitch count stays 212 (232, 252, 272, 292) ✓.

Hem

Change to 3.5 mm needle.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in 2×2 rib for 6 cm / 2¼ in, approximately 20 rounds. Stitch count remains 212 (232, 252, 272, 292) ✓ (all divisible by 4).

Cast off loosely in rib. A larger needle for the cast-off helps the hem stretch.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same way. Each sleeve is 89 rounds after the divide, then a ribbed cuff.

Return 68 (72, 76, 80, 88) held sleeve sts to 4 mm dpns (or a long circular for magic loop). With RS facing, starting at the centre of the underarm, pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts along the underarm cast-on (1 st in each cast-on st). Place BOR at the centre of the underarm.

Sleeve stitch count:

• S: 68 + 8 = 76 sts ✓
• M: 72 + 10 = 82 sts ✓
• L: 76 + 12 = 88 sts ✓
• XL: 80 + 14 = 94 sts ✓
• 2XL: 88 + 16 = 104 sts ✓

If a small gap appears at either end of the underarm, pick up 1 extra stitch in each gap on this round only, then k2tog at those two points on the next round so the count returns to 76 (82, 88, 94, 104).

Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work 89 rounds from the underarm (the pickup round is round 1), shaping as follows for your size, then working even in stocking stitch if needed until round 89 is complete:

S: [Knit 4 rnds, Decrease rnd] 16 times (80 rnds; 16 × 2 = 32 sts decreased → 76 − 32 = 44 sts ✓), then knit 9 rnds even. 89 rnds total ✓.

M: [Knit 4 rnds, Decrease rnd] 17 times (85 rnds; 17 × 2 = 34 sts decreased → 82 − 34 = 48 sts ✓), then knit 4 rnds even. 89 rnds total ✓.

L: [Knit 3 rnds, Decrease rnd] 20 times (80 rnds; 20 × 2 = 40 sts decreased → 88 − 40 = 48 sts ✓), then knit 9 rnds even. 89 rnds total ✓.

XL: [Knit 3 rnds, Decrease rnd] 21 times (84 rnds; 21 × 2 = 42 sts decreased → 94 − 42 = 52 sts ✓), then knit 5 rnds even. 89 rnds total ✓.

2XL: [Knit 2 rnds, Decrease rnd] 24 times (72 rnds; 24 × 2 = 48 sts decreased → 104 − 48 = 56 sts ✓), then knit 17 rnds even. 89 rnds total ✓.

89 rounds ≈ 29.5 cm / 11½ in of stocking stitch. For a longer sleeve, work extra even rounds after the decreases (before the cuff) until you like the length; the 89-round count above is the written sleeve.

Cuff

Change to 3.5 mm dpns (or magic loop).

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in 2×2 rib on 44 (48, 48, 52, 56) sts (all divisible by 4 ✓) for 5 cm / 2 in, approximately 16 rounds.

Cast off loosely in rib.

Work the second sleeve exactly as the first (89 rounds after the divide, then cuff).

Finishing

Weave in all ends, using the underarm tails to close any remaining gaps at the joins.

Wet-block the jumper to the finished measurements. Soak in lukewarm water with a little wool wash, press out water in a towel (do not wring), and lay flat. Shape the neck, raglan lines, hem and cuffs, and leave to dry fully. Do not hang.

Schematic (blocked)

                    neck 42 (45.5, 49, 53, 56.5) cm
                   _______________
                  /               \
                 /    yoke depth   \
                /  20 (21.5, 22.5,  \     sleeve from underarm
               /   24, 26) cm front  \    89 rnds + cuff ≈ 35 cm
              /_______________________\
             |                         |
             |   bust 96.5 (105.5,     |  upper arm
             |   114.5, 123.5,         |  34.5 (37.5, 40, 43, 47.5) cm
             |   132.5) cm             |
             |                         |
             |   40 cm st st           |
             |   + 6 cm rib            |
             |_________________________|
                    hem = bust

Notes

• Fit: Standard ease. 2XL matches 124 collar stitches, 436 yoke stitches and 292 body stitches.
• Neckline: Full-circumference crew with German short rows only. The front neck is not cast on later and is not lowered by extra stitches.
• Raglan lines: Two knit stitches with M1R before and M1L after form a 2-stitch column at each marker.
• Body: Straight. After the divide the count is 212 (232, 252, 272, 292) to the hem.
• Sleeves: Divided evenly. Each is worked for 89 rounds after the underarm, then cuffed. At this tension that is a three-quarter sleeve; add even rounds before the cuff for a full-length sleeve.
• Ribbing: Every rib stitch count is a multiple of 4 so 2×2 rib runs continuously.
• Adjusting length: Body length is easiest to change — knit more or fewer stocking-stitch rounds before the hem. Keep the 89 sleeve rounds if you want the written sleeve, or extend them for a longer arm.