purlJam

# Tulip Oval Book Cover

A charming, beginner-friendly book cover worked flat in sturdy single crochet. The front features a small appliquéd oval "window" that frames a sweet tulip motif. The firm fabric protects your favorite paperback while adding a handmade touch. Color changes for the tulip are optional — a simple surface-embroidery alternative is included for absolute beginners.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Category 4)
  - **Main Color (MC) — cover:** ~120 yds
  - **Contrast A (oval background):** ~25 yds (cream or off-white)
  - **Contrast B (tulip petals):** ~10 yds (pink or red)
  - **Contrast C (tulip stem/leaves):** ~10 yds (green)
- **Hook:** US H-8 (5.0 mm) — *note: a firm fabric is desired; if your sc is loose, drop to US G-6 / 4.0 mm*
- **Notions:** Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers, and the **separate attached stitch chart** for the tulip motif
- **Optional:** Fabric for lining, sewing needle and thread

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## Gauge

**16 sc = 4 in (10 cm); 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm)** in single crochet.

*Gauge check:* 4 sc = 1 in and 4.5 rows = 1 in. A 4 in × 4 in swatch should measure 16 sts wide by 18 rows tall. Gauge matters here so the finished cover fits a standard paperback.

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## Size

**Fits a standard paperback** (approx. 4.25 in × 7 in closed).

- **Each panel (front & back):** 8.5 in wide × 8 in tall
- **Oval motif:** approx. 3 in wide × 4 in tall

To fit a different book: measure your book **opened flat**, add 0.5 in to the width for spine ease. Multiply width in inches × 4 for stitch count (round to an even number), and height in inches × 4.5 for row count.

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## Abbreviations (US Terms)

- **ch** = chain
- **sc** = single crochet
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **sl st** = slip stitch
- **rep** = repeat
- **MC / A / B / C** = Main Color / Contrast A / B / C
- **RS / WS** = right side / wrong side

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## Pattern Notes

- The cover is worked as **two identical flat panels** joined at one long edge to form the spine. Each panel folds around the book.
- Work in **rows of single crochet through both loops** unless noted.
- **Turning chain:** ch 1 at the start of each row. **The turning ch-1 does NOT count as a stitch.**
- Stitch counts are given in parentheses at the end of each row — each panel stays at **(34 sts)** throughout, so the math never drifts.
- The **oval** is made separately and sewn onto the front panel. The **tulip** is worked using the separate attached chart (color changes) OR embroidered on afterward.
- Read the **Attached Stitch Chart** section before starting the tulip.

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## Instructions

### Panel 1 (Back)

Foundation: With MC, ch 35.

- **Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. **(34 sts)**
- **Rows 2–36:** Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. **(34 sts)**

Fasten off after Row 36. *Panel measures 8.5 in × 8 in.*

### Panel 2 (Front)

Work exactly as Panel 1:

- **Row 1 (RS):** With MC, ch 35, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. **(34 sts)**
- **Rows 2–36:** Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. **(34 sts)**

Fasten off. *Set aside — the oval will be added later.*

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### Oval Motif (Make 1, in Contrast A)

Worked flat in rows, this small oval creates the "window" that frames the tulip. Approx. 3 in wide × 4 in tall.

Foundation: With A, ch 13.

- **Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. **(12 sts)**
- **Row 2:** Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. **(12 sts)**
- **Row 3:** Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. **(14 sts)**
- **Rows 4–13:** Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. **(14 sts)**
- **Row 14:** Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sts (insert in first st, then next st, yo, pull through all loops), sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. **(12 sts)**

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in tail for sewing.

*The gradual increase/decrease at the ends softens the rectangle into a rounded oval shape. Block lightly with your fingers to coax the corners round.*

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### Adding the Tulip

You have two options:

**Option A — Worked in (color changes):** Work the tulip stitches into the oval using Contrast B (petals) and Contrast C (stem/leaves) following the **separate attached stitch chart**. Because the oval is small, you may work the tulip as you crochet the oval rows, changing colors per the chart (see Attached Stitch Chart section for color-change technique).

**Option B — Embroidered (easiest, recommended for beginners):** Complete the oval fully in Contrast A, then embroider the tulip on top using the attached chart as a placement guide. Use simple straight/satin stitches with B for petals and C for the stem and leaves.

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## Attached Stitch Chart (Tulip Motif)

**Do not look for a grid drawn in this text — the tulip design is provided as a separate attached chart panel accompanying this pattern.**

- **Placement:** The attached chart panel is positioned immediately after this section and is titled *"Tulip Motif Chart."* It maps the tulip onto the center of the 14-st × 14-row oval.
- **How to read it (crochet):**
  - Each square = **1 single crochet stitch**. Each horizontal line of squares = **1 row**.
  - Read **RS (odd) rows right-to-left** and **WS (even) rows left-to-right**, following the row-direction arrows on the chart edge — this matches how your fabric turns each row.
  - Colored squares indicate the color for that stitch: **B = tulip petals, C = stem/leaves, A = background.**
- **Color-change handling:** To change color on the last stitch before a new color begins, work the sc up to the final yarn-over, then complete that yarn-over with the **new** color. This makes the top of the next stitch the correct color. Carry the unused color loosely along the WS, or use small separate bobbins to avoid tangles.
- **Stitch-count integration:** The chart is centered within the oval's steady-state rows (the (14 sts) rows, Rows 4–13). No stitches are added or removed for the chart — every charted row still totals **14 sts** across, matching the oval. Simply substitute stitch colors; do not change the count.
- If using **Option B (embroidery)**, treat each chart square as a placement dot for your embroidery stitches rather than a crocheted stitch.

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## Finishing

1. **Weave in ends** on both panels and the oval.
2. **Center the oval** on the front panel (Panel 2): it should sit roughly centered, about 2.5 in from the top and 2.75 in from each side. Pin in place.
3. **Sew the oval down** using the 12 in tail and a yarn needle, whip-stitching neatly around the entire edge. If you used Option B, complete the tulip embroidery now.
4. **Join the panels at the spine:** Lay the two panels together with WS facing (RS out). Align one long (8 in) edge — this becomes the spine. With MC and a yarn needle (or sl st with your hook), seam along this single long edge only. **Leave the other three sides open** so the front and back flaps can wrap around the book covers.
5. **Create the cover flaps:** The seamed piece now opens like a book. Fold the left and right short edges inward to form pockets that hold the book's front and back covers. To secure the pockets, seam the **top and bottom edges** of each folded flap (about 1.5–2 in of overlap on each side), leaving the center spine channel open.
6. **Insert your book:** Slide the front and back covers of your paperback into the two pockets.
7. **Optional lining:** For extra structure, cut fabric to fit and hand-sew it to the inside before inserting the book.

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### Beginner Tips

- **Keep tension firm** — a stiffer fabric protects the book better and holds its shape.
- **Count your stitches** at the end of every few rows; each panel row should always be 34 sts.
- **Struggling with color changes?** Choose Option B (embroidery) — it's forgiving and looks just as sweet.
- **Blocking** the finished panels flat before assembly gives crisp, professional edges.

Enjoy your handmade Tulip Oval Book Cover!