Type
Machine Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
custom
AI Thinking Process
Planning
Verification
Pattern
Two-Color Reversible Brioche Scarf
Machine knitting pattern for Singer / Silver Reed SK840 + ribber
Difficulty: Intermediate
Style: Flat double-bed English brioche (Fisherman’s rib), reversible, two-color
A soft, lofty, fully reversible scarf worked in classic machine brioche. One face shows Color A ribs on a Color B ground; the reverse face swaps the colors. Knit entirely on the SK840 main bed with ribber—no hand-tool brioche stitches required.
Materials
Yarn (worsted weight, approx. 9–10 wpi)
- Color A (MC): 350 yd / 320 m
- Color B (CC): 350 yd / 320 m
Smooth, lightly spun worsted (wool or wool-blend) preferred; highly textured or sticky yarns may not clear the gate pegs on EON brioche.
Machine & tools
- SK840 standard-gauge (4.5 mm) electronic main bed
- Compatible ribber (SRP60 / SRP60N or equivalent)
- Ribber cast-on comb + weights (or claw weights)
- Waste yarn (smooth contrasting color, similar thickness)
- Ravel cord
- Transfer tool / latch tool
- Tapestry needle
- Optional: fringe twister or crochet hook for fringe
Notions
- Row counter (RC) on carriage or external
- Claw weights or ribber weights—reposition every 20–30 rows
Tension / Gauge
Working tension (brioche fabric, after light steam):
- Main bed (MB): T8
- Ribber (RB): T8
- Gauge in pattern stitch, relaxed then lightly steamed:
4 stitches and 6 RC-pairs = 1" (2.5 cm)
(1 “RC-pair” = one pass to the right + one pass to the left = two carriage passes that complete one visual brioche row pair.)
Swatch first. Cast on 24 needles (12 MB + 12 RB) in the arrangement below, work 40 RC-pairs, bind off, rest 24 hours, steam lightly without crushing ribs, and measure. Adjust both beds equally (e.g., T7/T7 or T9/T9) until you match gauge. Width is more critical than length for a scarf.
Finished Size
One size: 9" wide × 60" long (23 cm × 152 cm), excluding optional fringe.
Fabric is very stretchy widthwise; measurements are relaxed after blocking.
Abbreviations & Machine Terms
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| MB | Main bed |
| RB | Ribber bed |
| COR / COL | Carriage on right / left |
| RC | Row counter |
| EON | Every other needle |
| NWP | Non-working position (A position) |
| WP | Working position (B position) |
| HP | Holding position (E / D position—not used in this pattern) |
| T# | Tension dial setting |
| MC | Main color (Color A) |
| CC | Contrast color (Color B) |
| RC-pair | Two carriage passes (out and back) that form one full brioche sequence |
Pattern Notes
- Ribber required. True machine brioche uses both beds with tuck settings.
- Needle arrangement — Half pitch, EON full-needle rib style:
- Set pitch lever to H (half pitch).
- MB: needles 18-0-17 in WP (36 needles total across both beds will be 18 + 18).
- Bring every other needle to WP on MB starting at right edge needle; remaining MB needles in NWP.
- RB: opposite needles in WP so each RB needle sits between two MB needles (classic 1×1 full-needle rib alignment on half pitch, but only alternate needles selected = EON brioche).
Practical setup used in this pattern (centered on bed): - MB working needles: 18 L through 17 R, odd-numbered needles only in WP (18 needles).
- RB working needles: 18 L through 17 R, even-numbered needles only in WP (18 needles).
Total 36 stitches. Confirm no MB and RB needle share the same vertical line.
- Carriage settings for two-color brioche (English rib):
- Both MB and RB carriages set to Tuck in one direction and Knit in the other (standard Fisherman/English rib).
- Color change every two passes (one RC-pair per color) produces the classic two-color reversible brioche.
- Weights: Hang cast-on comb + 2–3 medium weights after cast-on. Add side claw weights. Move weights up every 20–30 RC-pairs. Insufficient weight = dropped stitches or tuck failures.
- Electronic / punchcard: No patterning device needed—carriage cam settings only. SK840 can remain in Fair Isle or stockinette selection mode with all working needles manually in B; end needle selection OFF.
- Edges: The EON brioche naturally produces neat side edges. Do not add extra edge needles.
- RC tracking: Reset RC to 000 at start of scarf body. Instructions list both total carriage passes and RC-pair counts.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Machine Setup
- Install ribber on SK840. Set connecting arm.
- Pitch lever: Half (H).
- Rack to alignment where RB needles sit between MB needles.
- MB tension dial: T8. RB tension dial: T8.
- Bring to WP:
- MB: 18 needles (odd positions 18 L–17 R).
- RB: 18 needles (even positions 18 L–17 R).
All other needles NWP.
- Set both carriages initially to Knit both ways (N/N or equivalent plain knit cams) for cast-on.
- Thread MC in MB yarn feeder (main feeder). Leave CC aside.
- Hang ribber cast-on comb after first plain rows; add weights.
2. Waste Yarn Cast-On & Setup Rows
- With waste yarn, circular cast-on (or e-wrap MB then pick up on RB) over the 36 working needles in full-needle rib.
- Knit 8–10 rows waste yarn, both beds knitting plain. COR.
- Thread ravel cord and knit 1 row plain. COR.
- Join MC. Knit 2 rows plain full-needle rib (both beds knit). COR. RC = 000 (reset now).
- Join CC in the ribber feeder or (if single feeder) prepare to change colors at the left edge as described below.
Preferred two-feeder / double-color method (if your arm supports two yarns):
- MC in MB feeder, CC in RB feeder for automatic two-color brioche.
Many SK840 + SRP setups feed one yarn at a time; use the single-feeder color-change method below (standard and reliable).
3. Single-Feeder Two-Color Brioche (recommended)
Cam settings for entire scarf body:
- MB carriage: Tuck right → left, Knit left → right (or the reverse—be consistent).
- RB carriage: Tuck right → left, Knit left → right (same direction as MB).
This is classic English/Fisherman rib. Confirm with your carriage manual which lever positions produce tuck toward the left.
Color sequence (one RC-pair = 2 passes):
RC-pair with MC (Color A):
- COR. Yarn = MC.
- Knit L (tuck pass). COL.
- Knit R (knit pass). COR.
- RC advances 2. One MC brioche pair complete.
RC-pair with CC (Color B):
- COR. Drop MC, pick up CC (leave short floats at right edge—they will be buried or finished later).
- Knit L (tuck pass). COL.
- Knit R (knit pass). COR.
- RC advances 2. One CC brioche pair complete.
Alternate MC pair and CC pair throughout.
Tip: Always change colors at COR so floats stay on one edge. Keep floats ≤ ½" or snug them later with a tapestry needle.
4. Scarf Body
- Reset RC = 000, COR, MC in feeder, cams set to brioche (tuck one way / knit the other) on both beds.
- Work in two-color brioche alternating:
- 1 RC-pair MC
- 1 RC-pair CC
- Continue until RC = 720 (that is 360 RC-pairs = 180 MC pairs + 180 CC pairs).
- Checkpoints:
- RC 120 (60 pairs) ≈ 10"
- RC 240 (120 pairs) ≈ 20"
- RC 360 (180 pairs) ≈ 30" (halfway—mark with contrast thread if desired)
- RC 480 (240 pairs) ≈ 40"
- RC 600 (300 pairs) ≈ 50"
- RC 720 (360 pairs) = 60"
- Checkpoints:
- End after a CC RC-pair, COR.
- Cut CC leaving 8" tail. Switch to MC.
5. Transition & Bind-Off
- Set both carriages to plain Knit both directions (cancel tuck).
- With MC, knit 2 rows plain full-needle rib. COR.
- Latch-tool bind-off (recommended for stretchy brioche edge):
- Transfer all RB stitches to corresponding MB needles (use transfer tool). Ribber needles to NWP. Drop ribber if desired.
- Beginning at COR, latch-tool bind off loosely across all 36 MB stitches, working at T10 equivalent looseness so the edge matches brioche elasticity.
- Alternate method: back-stitch bind-off through open stitches around a waste-yarn holding row, then graft or crochet loosely.
- Remove waste yarn and ravel cord from cast-on edge.
- Latch-tool bind off the cast-on edge the same way (or crochet slip-stitch bind-off loosely) so both ends match.
Finishing
- Weave in all ends with tapestry needle, following rib columns so ends disappear inside the brioche.
- Optional fringe: Cut 12" strands of MC and CC. With crochet hook, attach 2–3 strands per end stitch (or every other stitch) along both short ends, mixing colors or matching faces. Twist or knot. Trim even.
- Blocking:
- Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash if fiber allows; roll in towel.
- Or steam-block: pin scarf to 9" × 60" on blocking board, hovering steamer or iron with steam—do not press flat or you will kill the brioche loft.
- Dry completely.
- Check both faces—fabric is reversible; either side may be worn outward.
Troubleshooting
| Issue | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Stitches not knitting / tucks stacking | Insufficient weight or sticky yarn | Add weights; try slicker worsted; raise T half-click |
| Fabric too stiff | Tension too tight for worsted on 4.5 mm | Loosen both beds to T9–T10; re-swatch |
| Edges flaring or curling | Uneven MB/RB tension | Match T dials; equal stitch counts |
| Color floats too long | Color changes not always at same side | Always change at COR |
| Dropped ribber stitches | Pitch or racking off | Re-check half pitch and needle opposition |
Variation Ideas (same gauge & needle count)
- One-color brioche: Use only MC; same cam settings; fabric is classic Fisherman rib.
- Striped ends: Work first and last 30 RC-pairs in solid MC or CC blocks.
- Cowl: Knit 50" (RC 600), bind off, mattress-stitch short ends with mattress stitch through half-stitches for a Möbius or simple tube.
- Wider scarf: Add needles in pairs (always +1 MB and +1 RB) maintaining EON opposition; +8 needles total ≈ +2" width; adjust yardage.
Quick Reference Card
| Item | Setting |
|---|---|
| Machine | SK840 + ribber |
| Pitch | Half (H) |
| Needles | 18 MB odd + 18 RB even (36 total) |
| Tension | MB T8 / RB T8 |
| Cams | Tuck one way, Knit the other (both beds) |
| Colors | Alternate 1 RC-pair MC / 1 RC-pair CC |
| Length | RC 720 (360 pairs) |
| Bind-off | Transfer RB→MB, loose latch-tool |
Pattern math validation (inline)
- Width: 36 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = 9" ✓
- Length: 360 RC-pairs ÷ 6 pairs/in = 60" ✓
- RC total: 360 pairs × 2 passes = 720 ✓
- Color balance: 180 MC pairs + 180 CC pairs ✓
Enjoy your reversible brioche scarf—lofty, warm, and fully machine-knit on the SK840.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, charts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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