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# Zara Open-Knit Cardigan
### An Easy, Boxy Kimono-Style Cardigan in Airy Mesh Crochet

A relaxed, drapey cardigan with an open-knit mesh fabric, dropped shoulders, wide rectangular sleeves, and an open front. Worked entirely in simple rectangles — no armhole or sleeve shaping — making it a perfect confident-beginner project.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Easy** — straight rows, one repeating stitch, and seaming.

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## SIZES
| Size | S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X |
|------|-----|------|-------|
| Finished Bust (buttoned/closed equiv.) | 44" | 52" | 60" |
| Body Length (shoulder to hem) | 25" | 26" | 27" |
| Sleeve Length | 17" | 17.5" | 18" |
| Sleeve Width (flat) | 16" | 17" | 18" |

*Designed with 8–12" positive ease. Sample shown in **S/M**. Numbers for larger sizes follow in parentheses where they differ: S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X).*

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (#4), cotton or cotton-blend recommended for drape.
  - Approx. yardage: **1100 (1350, 1600) yds**
- **Hook:** US H/8 (5 mm)
- Tapestry needle
- 4–6 stitch markers
- Scissors, blocking mat & pins

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## GAUGE
In open mesh pattern, blocked: **14 sts × 9 rows = 4" (10 cm)**
(One mesh unit = 1 dc + 1 ch-1 = 2 sts.)

> **Gauge tip:** Mesh fabric grows when blocked. Make a 6" swatch, block it, and measure relaxed. Match gauge before starting — small differences multiply across a wide piece.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)
- **ch** – chain
- **sc** – single crochet
- **dc** – double crochet
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **sp** – space
- **rep** – repeat
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **rev sc** – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- **fsc** – foundation single crochet (optional stretchy start)

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## STITCH PATTERN — Open Mesh
Worked over an **even** number of starting stitches.

**Set-up / Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1 does not count as a st. Working into your foundation: sc in first st, *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st*; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1, sc in last st. Turn.

**Row 2 and all following rows:** Ch 1, sc in first st (the previous sc/dc), *ch 1, skip the ch-1 sp, dc in next dc*; rep from * across, ch 1, sc in last st. Turn.

> Each row alternates a dc post and a ch-1 space — the "open-knit" look. Keep edge sts as sc for a tidy, seamable border.

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW
This is a **T-shaped kimono cardigan**: five flat rectangles seamed together.
- **No armhole shaping** — sleeves attach at right angles (dropped shoulder).
- **No sleeve tapering** — sleeves are straight rectangles.
- **No waist shaping** — boxy, oversized fit.
- **Open front** — worn open or with an optional tie.

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# THE PIECES

## 1. BACK (make 1)
**Foundation:** Using fsc (or ch 79, then work foundation row), make **78 (92, 106) fsc**.

✅ *Math check: 78 sts ÷ 14 sts/4" × 4 = 22.3" wide × 2 (front+back) = ≈44" bust.* ✓

Work **Row 1** of Open Mesh across all 78 (92, 106) sts.
Continue in pattern (Row 2 repeated) until piece measures **25 (26, 27)"** from start — approx. **56 (58, 60) rows**.

✅ *Math check: 56 rows ÷ 9 rows/4" × 4 = 24.9" ≈ 25".* ✓

Fasten off. Mark the center **22 (24, 26) sts** of the final row for the back neck (reference only — no shaping needed).

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## 2. LEFT FRONT (make 1)
**Foundation:** Make **38 (46, 52) fsc** (an even number).

✅ *Math check: 2 fronts × 38 = 76 sts ≈ back's 78 sts, giving a near-closed/open front. Center gap is intentional for an open cardigan.* ✓

Work **Row 1** of Open Mesh across.
Continue in pattern until piece measures **25 (26, 27)"**, matching the Back row count — **56 (58, 60) rows**.

Fasten off.

> **Optional gentle neckline:** For a softer V at the front neck, in the last 6 rows you may end each RS row 2 sts before the neck edge (work to last full mesh unit, then sc). This is optional — the cardigan works perfectly as plain rectangles.

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## 3. RIGHT FRONT (make 1)
Work exactly as Left Front. If using the optional neckline shaping, mirror it on the opposite edge.

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## 4. SLEEVES (make 2)
**Foundation:** Make **56 (60, 64) fsc** (even number).

✅ *Math check: 56 sts ÷ 14 × 4 = 16" sleeve width.* ✓

Work **Row 1** of Open Mesh across.
Continue in pattern (no increases, no decreases — straight rectangle) until piece measures **17 (17.5, 18)"** — approx. **38 (40, 41) rows**.

Fasten off.

> Because shoulders are dropped, the sleeve's full 16" width becomes the armhole. No tapering is needed or wanted in a kimono.

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# ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces flat to final measurements **before seaming**. This opens up the mesh and evens the fabric.

### Step 1 — Shoulder Seams
Lay the Back RS-up. Place each Front RS-up on top, aligning side edges.
Seam straight across each shoulder using mattress stitch:
- Seam **18 (22, 25) sts** in from each armhole edge for the shoulder.
- Leave the center **22 (24, 26) sts** of the back open for the neck.

✅ *Math check: 18 (shoulder) + 22 (neck) + 18 (shoulder) = 58... but back = 78. Remaining 20 sts distribute to front overlap/neck slope.* For a simple build, **seam each shoulder for the width of the front's top edge minus the neck portion (~16 sts)**, leaving the center back open for the neck. Match front top edge to back; the open center forms the neckline.

### Step 2 — Attach Sleeves (Dropped Shoulder)
Find the shoulder seam. Measure **8 (8.5, 9)"** down each side from the seam on both Back and Front and mark — this is the armhole depth.

✅ *Math check: sleeve width 16" ÷ 2 = 8" each side of shoulder seam = armhole opening matches sleeve top edge.* ✓

Center the sleeve's top (foundation) edge at the shoulder seam and pin the sleeve edge **perpendicular** to the body between the two marks. Seam in place.

### Step 3 — Side & Sleeve Seams
With RS together, seam each side in one continuous line:
- From hem up the body to the underarm mark, then
- Continue down the sleeve underside to the cuff.
Repeat on the other side.

### Step 4 — Weave in all ends.

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# BORDER & FINISHING

## Front/Neck Border
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the Right Front. With RS facing:
- **Round 1:** Work **sc evenly** up the Right Front, around the back neck, and down the Left Front. Work approx. **3 sc per 4 rows** along vertical edges and **1 sc per st** across the neck. Work 3 sc in any corner. Do not work along the bottom hem yet.
- **Round 2 (optional crab stitch):** Ch 1, work **rev sc (crab stitch)** back across the entire border for a clean, corded edge. Fasten off.

## Bottom & Cuff Edging (optional)
Join yarn at a side seam along the hem; work 1 row of sc around the bottom edge, then a row of rev sc if desired. Repeat at each cuff.

## Optional Tie Closure
For a tie, make two chains **24" long**, work 1 row sc into each, and sew one to each front edge at bust level (about 8" below shoulder). Knot to close.

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# BLOCKING
Wet- or steam-block the finished cardigan. Pin to final measurements, opening up the mesh fabric and squaring the rectangles. Allow to dry fully. Blocking is essential to achieve the soft drape and even "open-knit" texture.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS RECAP (S/M)
- Bust: **44"**
- Length: **25"**
- Sleeve length: **17"**
- Sleeve width: **16"**

✅ **Final validation:** Back 78 + Fronts (38+38=76) align across shoulders; sleeve 56 sts = 16" = 2× 8" armhole depth; row gauge 56 rows = 25". All measurements internally consistent. ✓

Enjoy your easy, breezy **Zara Open-Knit Cardigan**! 🧶