3x3 Rib Men’s Sweater — Brown

Classic, textured 3x3 rib throughout, worked seamless top-down with a raglan yoke for easy fit adjustment. Brown sample uses a rich chestnut brown. Skill: intermediate (basic increases, raglan shaping, working rib in the round). Gauge, sizing and full instructions included for S (M, L, XL, XXL).

Finished measurements and ease

• S: chest ~38.5" (98 cm)
• M: chest ~41.5" (105 cm)
• L: chest ~44" (112 cm)
• XL: chest ~46.75" (119 cm)
• XXL: chest ~49.25" (125 cm)
• Standard positive ease: 0–2" depending on preference. Adjust by stopping yoke increases earlier/later.

Yarn & quantities

• Weight: Worsted/Aran (US 4). Suggested fiber: wool or wool blend for memory and durability.
• Skein example: 100 g (3.5 oz) = ~220 yds (201 m) per skein.
• Estimated yardage (approx): S 1100 yds (1005 m) — M 1250 yds (1143 m) — L 1400 yds (1280 m) — XL 1550 yds (1417 m) — XXL 1700 yds (1555 m). Adjust if you knit tightly/loosely or change length.
• Color: Brown (sample: chestnut brown). Buy one extra skein to be safe for larger sizes or pattern adjustments.

Needles

Use needles to achieve gauge in 3x3 rib. Typical recommendation (swap if your gauge differs):

• Smaller needles for neck/cuffs/hem rib: US 6 — UK (old) 8 — Metric 4.0 mm
• Main needles for body/sleeves: US 7 — UK (old) 7 — Metric 4.5 mm
• Alternate for a slightly looser drape: US 8 — UK (old) 6 — Metric 5.0 mm
• Circular needles: 16" (40 cm) for neck, then 24” (60 cm) and 32” (80 cm) circulars as you increase; set of DPNs or small-circ for sleeve tips if preferred.

Gauge

3x3 rib (in the round): 18 sts = 4" (10 cm) and ~24 rounds = 4" (10 cm) using US 7 (4.5 mm). Always knit a swatch in the same 3x3 rib pattern you’ll use. Rib gauge differs from stockinette; measure your gauge in the rib.

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• P3 = purl 3 stitches
• M1 = make one increase (leaning direction indicated inline)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• YO = yarn over
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off

Construction notes

Worked top-down in the round with raglan increases. The entire sweater keeps the 3x3 rib pattern. Raglan increases are worked at four raglan seams, so increases are 8 sts per increase round (M1 on either side of each marker). Because the fabric is ribbed, insert increases so the rib pattern remains readable: when you encounter a purl column next to a raglan marker, create a purl-direction increase; when you encounter a knit column, create a knit-direction increase. If you prefer predictable increases, use lifted M1 (M1L or M1R) to keep the texture tidy.

Stitch counts for fitting (target total stitches at underarm separation)

These totals are chosen so they divide evenly into 3x3 rib repeats (multiples of 6). Stop raglan increases when your total live stitches equal the target for your size, then separate sleeves.

• S: 174 sts total (approx finished chest ~38.5")
• M: 186 sts total (approx finished chest ~41.5")
• L: 198 sts total (approx finished chest ~44")
• XL: 210 sts total (approx finished chest ~46.75")
• XXL: 222 sts total (approx finished chest ~49.25")

Neck & Yoke (Top-down)

1. Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), CO with a stretchy method: S 80 sts, M 84 sts, L 88 sts, XL 92 sts, XXL 96 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the beginning of round.
2. Work 3x3 rib (K3, P3) for 1.5" (4 cm) to form neck band. Optionally work 2" (5 cm) for a taller neck.
3. Switch to main needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Set up raglan: PM to divide into 4 sections. Place markers so that each raglan seam is one marker; sections between markers will form front, sleeve, back, sleeve. Continue working in 3x3 rib across the entire round, maintaining K3,P3 pattern across markers (if pattern breaks, shift rib by 1 or 2 sts to keep consistent columns).
4. Begin raglan increases: On RS rounds, at each raglan marker, work: before marker insert increase (M1) in the stitch before the marker keeping the correct rib column (if that stitch is a knit column, make an M1 that produces a knit; if purl column, make purl-direction M1), then SM, then after marker make another M1. That is 8 sts increased per increase round. Increase every other round until total live stitches = target number for your size (see counts above). If a precise multiple is needed to preserve 3x3 rib repeats, the provided target totals are chosen to work with the rib; stop when you are within 0-6 sts of target and adjust one extra/less increase round as needed to retain rib repeat multiples of 6.
5. Measure frequently: the yoke depth to underarm is typically 8–10" (20–25 cm) from back neck for most men; stop increases when you reach desired yoke depth and your total sts match the size target.

Separating sleeves & body

1. When you reach the target total stitches and yoke depth, place the sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders. To do this: SM, work across first sleeve section: slip sleeve sts to holder; remove them from needle. Continue to next section (body) and work across back and front sections, placing second sleeve sts on holder. You will now have only body stitches on the needle (approximately target minus 2 sleeve sections).
2. Join body in the round and continue working in 3x3 rib for the body. Try the sweater on or measure: work until body length hits desired hemline: standard length 26–28" (66–71 cm) from shoulder to hem; shorter/trimmer 24–25" (61–64 cm). Adjust length to preference.
3. Optional hem finish: Switch to smaller needles (US 6) and work 3x3 rib for 1.5–2" (4–5 cm), then BO loosely in pattern. To BO in rib: bind off knit stitches through the back loop, purl the purl stitches as you bind off to preserve elasticity.

Sleeves

1. Place sleeve sts from holders onto needles. Pick up 1–2 sts at underarm seam if needed to avoid a hole (distribute evenly). Join in the round, ensure stitches are lined up for 3x3 rib pattern and begin working in 3x3 rib.
2. Sleeve shaping: Work even in 3x3 rib until sleeve length (from underarm) is approximately 18–20" (46–51 cm) or desired length. If you want tapered sleeves, decrease 2 sts every 6–8" (15–20 cm) by working a decrease on each side of a knit column while keeping 3x3 rhythm; make sure decreases keep rib integrity.
3. When sleeve reaches desired length, switch to smaller needles (US 6) and work 3x3 rib for 1.5–2" (4–5 cm). BO loosely in pattern. Repeat for second sleeve.

Finishing

• Weave in ends. Block gently to measurements: soak in lukewarm water with mild wool wash, squeeze out excess, lay flat and shape to measurements. Rib will relax and even out; blocking will open rib slightly.
• Sew any underarm holes closed with mattress stitch or a small grafting (use same-color yarn).
• Neck finishing: If you used a provisional cast-on at the neck and want a cleaner band, you can pick up the live stitches and graft the under-collar, or leave the working neck as a taller rib band as formed in row 2 instructions.

Customization & fit tips

• To add more positive ease, continue raglan increases one or two extra increase rounds (adds 8–16 sts per round), then continue body to length.
• If you prefer a more tailored fit, stop increases earlier and/or decrease body fullness by removing 6–12 sts evenly after separation.
• Want a deeper rib texture? Use a slightly heavier needle for body (US 8) and smaller for cuffs/hem.

Troubleshooting & notes

• Keeping a consistent 3x3 rib across raglan seams requires mindful increases so that knit and purl columns line up. When in doubt, use liftedM1 that matches the column type.
• If your rib pattern gets out of phase after an increase round, shift one or two stitches of the row so the columns realign; this is normal on textured yokes and will settle with blocking.

Care

Hand wash wool sweaters or machine wash on gentle/wool cycle if yarn label permits. Lay flat to dry to keep shape and rib integrity.

Notes & credits

Pattern created for PurlJam. For questions or support: email team@verde.uk. More patterns and support at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your makes: tag #purljam.

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