A-2 FLIGHT CARDIGAN

Stranded colourwork bomber (advanced)

Inspired by the USAAF Type A-2 leather flight jacket: knit stand collar, ribbed waist and cuffs, patch pockets, epaulettes, and a centre-front zipper. Colourwork suggests hide grain, roundel stars, and chevron “rank” bands.

Skill level: Advanced (stranded colourwork, charts, raglan shaping, zipper insertion, applied pockets).

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest: 81 (91, 102, 112, 122) cm / 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) in
Finished chest (buttoned/zipped, including 2 cm overlap facings): 86 (96, 106, 116, 126) cm
Finished length (back neck to hem, excl. collar): 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) cm
Sleeve length to underarm: 46 (47, 48, 49, 50) cm

Shown with 5 cm positive ease.

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm over stranded stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking.
Work a 15 cm colourwork swatch; block as for the garment. Colourwork typically knits 1–2 sts per 10 cm tighter than plain stocking stitch — match this tension, not a plain swatch.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted / aran, non-superwash wool preferred (better stitch definition and “hide” hand).

Needles

• 4 mm circular 80–100 cm (body) and 40 cm or DPNs (sleeves)
• 3.5 mm circular 80 cm (ribs, collar, facings)
• Spare 3.5 mm for pocket tops

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (raglan) + 2 for side “seams”
• Waste yarn or holders
• Tapestry needle
• 55–65 cm open-ended metal or antique-brass separating zipper (A-2 style)
• 4 buttons or snaps for pocket flaps (optional, 15 mm)
• 2 buttons or snaps for epaulettes (optional)

Abbreviations (UK knitting)

k, p, st(s), RS, WS, yo, k2tog, ssk, m1L, m1R, sl, wyib, wyif, pm, sm, BOR
m1L: lift strand from front to back, k tbl.
m1R: lift strand from back to front, k.
w&t: wrap and turn (short rows for collar).

Colourwork notes

• Read RS (odd) chart rows right to left; WS even rows left to right. Charts are in stocking stitch (k RS, p WS) unless noted.
• Floats: never carry unused colour more than 5 sts. Catch floats on the WS every 3–5 sts, staggering catch points.
• Colour dominance: Hold CC (lighter / motif) in the left hand (dominant) and MC in the right so stars and chevrons sit slightly proud, like stamped leather.
• Keep yarn tension even; do not strand tighter than the knitting needle diameter.
• Raglan increases: work m1L / m1R in MC unless the chart cell at that stitch is a contrast stitch — then increase in the colour the chart shows for that stitch.

CHARTS

Use a stitch marker every 8 sts until you can read the fabric. Background = MC unless a symbol is shown.

Key

• □ empty = MC
• ● filled = CC1 (dark grain)
• ★ = CC2 (star / cream)
• ▲ = CC3 (olive)
• ■ = CC4 (ochre)

Chart A — Hide grain (8-st × 8-row repeat)

Use on lower body and sleeves after yoke.

Row 8 (WS): □ □ ● □ □ □ ● □
Row 7 (RS): □ ● □ □ □ ● □ □
Row 6:      □ □ □ ● □ □ □ ●
Row 5:      ● □ □ □ ● □ □ □
Row 4:      □ □ ● □ □ □ ● □
Row 3:      □ ● □ □ □ ● □ □
Row 2:      □ □ □ ● □ □ □ ●
Row 1:      ● □ □ □ ● □ □ □
           8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

(Repeat Rows 1–8. Offset grain by starting Size S/L on st 5 of the chart at centre fronts if desired.)

Chart B — Yoke chevron band (8-st × 12-row)

12: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
11: □ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ □
10: □ □ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ □ □
 9: □ □ □ ▲ ▲ □ □ □
 8: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
 7: ★ □ □ □ □ □ □ ★
 6: □ ★ □ □ □ □ ★ □
 5: □ □ ★ □ □ ★ □ □
 4: □ □ □ ★ ★ □ □ □
 3: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
 2: ■ □ □ □ □ □ □ ■
 1: □ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ □
    8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Chart C — Roundel star (8-st × 8-row; place on upper sleeves / chest)

8: □ □ ★ □ ★ □ □ □
7: □ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ □ □
6: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ □
5: □ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ □ □
4: □ □ ★ □ ★ □ □ □
3: □ □ □ ★ □ □ □ □
2: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
1: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
   8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Work Chart C over 8-st panels centred on each front (2 motifs) and once on each upper sleeve after raglan split.

Chart D — Collar lining stripe (optional, 4 sts)

Alternate 2 MC, 2 CC1 every 2 rows for inner collar facing.

PATTERN

Neck cast-on and set-up

With 3.5 mm needles and MC, using a stretchy cast-on, CO 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) sts. Do not join; work flat.

Set-up row (WS): p2 (left front facing), pm, p14 (16, 18, 20, 22) left front, pm, p16 sleeve, pm, p28 (32, 36, 40, 44) back, pm, p16 sleeve, pm, p14 (16, 18, 20, 22) right front, p2 (right front facing).
92 (100, 108, 116, 124) ✓

Change to 4 mm.

Raglan RS increase row: k2 (facing, always MC, no chart), sm, work in pattern to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, work to 1 st before next marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, work across back to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, work sleeve to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, work right front, k2 facing.
(+8 sts)

WS: p2, work sts as they appear / chart WS, p2.

Work Increase Row every RS row 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) times more (17 (19, 21, 23, 25) increase rows total including first).

Stitch counts after all raglan increases
Each front (excl. 2 facing): 31 (35, 39, 43, 47)
Each sleeve: 50 (54, 58, 62, 66)
Back: 62 (70, 78, 86, 94)
Facings: 2 + 2
Total: 228 (252, 276, 300, 324) sts ✓
(Start 92 + 8×17 = 228 for XS; 100+8×19=252; 108+8×21=276; 116+8×23=300; 124+8×25=324 ✓)

Yoke colourwork placement

• Rows 1–16 (approx.): Chart A (grain) across all sections except 2-st facings (MC).
• Next 12 rows: Chart B across back and fronts (align 8-st repeats from centre back; extra sts at raglan worked in MC). Sleeves continue Chart A.
• Remaining yoke rows: Chart A, with Chart C centred on each front (begin Chart C when fronts have at least 32 sts of colourwork).

Work even (no raglan inc) if needed until yoke depth from cast-on is 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm, ending WS.

Divide body and sleeves

RS: k2, work left front to marker, remove m, place next 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sleeve sts on waste yarn, CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm sts in MC, work back, place next sleeve on waste, CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm, work right front, k2.

Body sts: 31+2 + 6(…) + 62(…) + 6(…) + 31+2 = 140 (156, 174, 190, 210) for XS check: 33+6+62+6+33 = 140 ✓
S: 37+6+70+6+37 = 156 ✓
M: 41+8+78+8+41 = 176 — use CO 8; 41+8+78+8+41 = 176. Adjust XL similarly.
Published body totals: 140 (156, 176, 192, 214) with underarm CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) and front+facing 33 (37, 41, 45, 49) each:
XS 33+6+62+6+33=140 ✓ | S 37+6+70+6+37=156 ✓ | M 41+8+78+8+41=176 ✓ | L 45+8+86+8+45=192 ✓ | XL 49+10+94+10+49=212. Use 214 if you add 1 st each front for zipper ease at L/XL as preferred; work 192 (L) and 212 (XL) for exact match: XL 49+10+94+10+49 = 212 sts.

Continue body flat in Chart A (facings always MC stocking stitch). Work until body from underarm measures 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) cm, ending WS. Maintain 8-st repeat; extra sts at sides in MC.

Waist rib (A-2 knit waistband)

Change to 3.5 mm, MC.
Dec row (RS): knit, decreasing 12 (12, 16, 16, 20) sts evenly across body (not facings).
Rib: k2 facing, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2 facing.
Work 6 cm 2×2 rib. Cast off in rib, leaving facings live if you prefer to continue them into zipper tape; otherwise cast off all.

Sleeves

Return 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sts to 4 mm DPNs/circular. Pick up 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts from one half of underarm CO, pm BOR at underarm centre, pick up remaining 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts.
56 (60, 66, 70, 76) sts.

Join in the round. Work Chart A (and Chart C once on upper sleeve, centred).

Shape: Dec 1 st each side of BOR every 8th (8th, 7th, 7th, 6th) rnd until 44 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts remain. Work even until sleeve from underarm is 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm.

Cuff: 3.5 mm, MC, k2, p2 for 6 cm. Cast off in rib.

Stand collar (A-2 knit collar)

With 3.5 mm and MC, RS facing, pick up 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) sts around neck (1 per CO st).
Work 2×2 rib for 4 cm.
Short-row stand (optional): w&t 8 sts from each end, 3 times, working back, to raise back collar.
Work 1 cm more rib. Cast off in rib. Fold collar in half to inside and slip-stitch if a double collar is desired (Chart D on inner half).

Zipper facings and insertion

Facings are the 2-st MC columns. With 3.5 mm, pick up 1 st per 2 rows along each front edge if facings were not kept, or continue 2-st garter/stocking strips.
Work 2 cm stocking stitch. Cast off.
Baste zipper between facing and body WS so teeth sit just inside the front edge. Hand-sew with backstitch; hide tape under facing. Do not machine-stretch the knit.

Patch pockets (make 2)

With 4 mm, MC, CO 24 sts. Work Chart A for 12 cm. Change to 3.5 mm, k2, p2 rib 2.5 cm for flap look, or work a 3 cm flap in MC, fold, and add a snap. Cast off.
Sew pockets to fronts, lower edge ~4 cm above waist rib, inner edge ~4 cm from zipper; match grain of Chart A. Optional lining in CC3.

Epaulettes (make 2)

With 3.5 mm, MC, CO 8 sts. Work 12 cm stocking stitch. Cast off. Fold in half lengthwise, seam. Tack at shoulder seam / raglan line; optional button at collar end (A-2 style).

Finishing

Weave in ends on WS, splitting plies to hide in stranded fabric.
Block: Soak 20 min in lukewarm water with wool wash; press water out (do not wring). Pin to schematic, do not stretch colourwork widthways (it will grow). Dry fully before sewing zipper and pockets. Steam pockets and epaulettes lightly.
Sew on snaps/buttons. Check zipper operation.

Schematic (cm)

This is a knitted interpretation of A-2 silhouette and details, not a licensed military reproduction. Adjust zipper length to finished front opening after blocking.