purlJam

# Amigurumi Erlenmeyer Flask — "Lab Buddy"

A cute conical science-flask amigurumi with a flat base, tapered shoulders, narrow neck, flared rim, and tiny arms designed to hold a paper quote, mini photo, or any custom message. Perfect for teachers, scientists, lab partners, graduations, and gift personalization.

**Finished size:** Approximately 7 in (18 cm) tall × 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide at base
**Skill level:** Intermediate

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## Materials

- **Yarn (worsted weight / #4):**
  - Main Color (MC) — light aqua, mint, or clear-glass blue: ~80 yds
  - Accent Color (AC) — optional, for "liquid" or splash on top: ~15 yds
  - Skin/peach or MC — for arms: ~10 yds (use MC if you want glove-style hands, or skin tone for character hands)
- **Hook:** US F-5 (3.75 mm)
- **Safety eyes:** 9 mm (1 pair)
- **Fiberfill stuffing**
- **Yarn needle**
- **Stitch marker**
- **Optional:** small piece of cardboard cut to a 5.5 in (14 cm) circle to stiffen the base
- **Optional:** small clip, thread, or dab of glue to secure the customer's paper/quote

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## Gauge

4 sc × 4 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in single crochet, worked in the round.
Exact gauge is not critical, but tight stitches are essential — stuffing should not show through.

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## Abbreviations (US Terms)

- **ch** — chain
- **sc** — single crochet
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **inc** — 2 sc in same st
- **dec** — invisible decrease (FLO of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both, yo, pull through all)
- **MR** — magic ring
- **BLO** — back loop only
- **FLO** — front loop only
- **[ ]** — total stitch count at end of round
- **( ) x N** — repeat sequence N times

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Use stitch marker to track beginning of round. Do **not** join unless instructed.

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## FLASK BODY (make 1, in MC)

The body is worked from the **bottom up**: flat round base → angled cone shoulders → straight neck → flared rim.

### Flat Base

- **Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. **[6]**
- **Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. **[12]** ✓ (6 + 6 = 12)
- **Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) x 6. **[18]** ✓ (12 + 6 = 18)
- **Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) x 6. **[24]** ✓ (18 + 6 = 24)
- **Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) x 6. **[30]** ✓ (24 + 6 = 30)
- **Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) x 6. **[36]** ✓ (30 + 6 = 36)
- **Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) x 6. **[42]** ✓ (36 + 6 = 42)

The base should now measure approximately 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across and lie completely flat. If it cups, your tension is too tight; if it ruffles, too loose.

### Sidewall — Define the Bottom Edge

- **Rnd 8:** sc in BLO of each st around. **[42]**
  *(This creates a crisp 90° edge where the base meets the side.)*
- **Rnds 9–12:** sc in each st around. **[42]** (4 rounds)

### Conical Shoulder Decreases (the iconic Erlenmeyer slope)

- **Rnd 13:** (5 sc, dec) x 6. **[36]** ✓ (42 − 6 = 36)
- **Rnd 14:** sc in each st around. **[36]**
- **Rnd 15:** (4 sc, dec) x 6. **[30]** ✓
- **Rnd 16:** sc in each st around. **[30]**
- **Rnd 17:** (3 sc, dec) x 6. **[24]** ✓
- **Rnd 18:** sc in each st around. **[24]**
- **Rnd 19:** (2 sc, dec) x 6. **[18]** ✓ (24 − 6 = 18)

**>> INSERT SAFETY EYES** between Rnds 16 and 17, approximately 5 sts apart, centered on the front of the flask. Look at your work and choose the cutest position before securing.

**>> Begin stuffing firmly.** Pack stuffing into the cone — the base should be solid and the body shape should hold. Optional: insert a 5.5 in cardboard disc into the base before stuffing for extra stability.

### Neck (straight cylinder)

- **Rnds 20–24:** sc in each st around. **[18]** (5 rounds — about 1.25 in / 3 cm tall)

Continue stuffing the neck lightly (do not overfill — keep it cylindrical, not bulging).

### Rim Flare (top opening)

- **Rnd 25:** (2 sc, inc) x 6. **[24]** ✓ (18 + 6 = 24)
- **Rnd 26:** sc in BLO of each st around. **[24]**
  *(BLO creates a defined lip at the top.)*
- **Rnd 27:** sc in each st around. **[24]**

Add a final small amount of stuffing if needed to keep the rim open and round.

**Finishing the rim:** sl st in next st. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in tail. Weave in end inside the neck.

*Note: leave the top open — this looks like a real flask opening. If desired, you can crochet an "AC liquid" cap (instructions below) and sew it inside the rim.*

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## OPTIONAL: "LIQUID" TOP / SPLASH (in AC)

- **Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. **[6]**
- **Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. **[12]**
- **Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) x 6. **[18]**
- **Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) x 6. **[24]**
- **Rnd 5:** sc in BLO of each st. **[24]**
- **Rnd 6:** for a bubbly/splash edge: (sc, hdc, 2 dc in next st, hdc, sc, sl st) repeated around the edge — freeform; aim for 4–6 "bubble" peaks.

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in tail. Insert into the flask rim and whip stitch the BLO edge from Rnd 5 to the inside lip of Rnd 26 of the body.

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## ARMS (make 2, in MC or skin color)

Tiny stubby arms positioned to hold a sign between them.

- **Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. **[6]**
- **Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. **[12]** ✓
- **Rnd 3:** sc in each st around. **[12]**
- **Rnd 4:** (2 sc, dec) x 3. **[9]** ✓ (12 − 3 = 9)
- **Rnds 5–7:** sc in each st around. **[9]** (3 rounds)

Lightly stuff only the hand (Rnds 1–3). Leave the upper arm flat and unstuffed for easier sewing.

Fasten off, leaving an 8 in tail for sewing.

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## ASSEMBLY

1. **Confirm safety eyes are locked.** Tug to check.
2. **Position arms:** pin each arm to the side of the flask at approximately Rnd 14–15 (the upper shoulder slope), angled slightly forward so the hands can meet at the front.
3. **Sew arms** using the long tail and a whip stitch around the open end. Sew through 6–8 sts of the body to anchor securely.
4. **Test the hold:** the hands should naturally come together at the front of the flask, around the safety eyes' level (a little below or beside the face).
5. **Weave in all ends.**

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## CUSTOMIZING THE HELD ITEM (the main feature!)

The arms are designed to hold any small flat object — this is what makes the flask a personalized gift.

**Options for the customer's quote / image / message:**

- **Paper sign:** print or write a quote on cardstock (recommend approx. 2 × 1.5 in / 5 × 4 cm). Insert between the two hands; hands can be tacked together with 2–3 small stitches OR with a tiny dab of removable glue on the back of the paper.
- **Mini photo / Polaroid:** trim to fit and slip between hands.
- **Tiny chalkboard or wood plaque:** glue to the front of the joined hands.
- **Removable clip method:** sew a small clothespin or bulldog clip to the inside of one hand so signs can be swapped.
- **Fabric banner:** crochet a small chain banner and have the hands grip the ends.

**To make the hands "grip":** after assembly, use the remaining yarn tails to make 2–3 anchor stitches between the two hands at the desired width — this creates a permanent slot that holds the paper securely without glue.

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## FINISHING TOUCHES (optional)

- **Embroider a smile** below the safety eyes using black yarn or embroidery floss — 2 small straight stitches in a "v" shape, or a simple curved smile across 3–4 stitches.
- **Cheek blush:** lightly rub a pink colored pencil on each cheek.
- **Measurement lines:** with white or black yarn, embroider 3–4 short horizontal "ml" lines on the side of the flask body to mimic graduated markings. Place at Rnds 10, 13, 16 — about 4 sts wide each.
- **Label patch:** crochet or embroider a tiny rectangle on the front (below the eyes) for a "specimen" label.

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## CARE

Spot clean only. Hand wash gently if needed and air dry flat. Do not machine wash with safety eyes installed.

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**Stitch count summary (verification):**
Base: 6→12→18→24→30→36→42 ✓
Side: 42 (5 rnds) ✓
Cone: 42→36→30→24→18 ✓
Neck: 18 (5 rnds) ✓
Rim: 18→24 (3 rnds) ✓
Arms: 6→12→9 (5 rnds) ✓

Enjoy your Lab Buddy — the perfect "I appreciate you to a chemically significant degree" gift! 🧪