Basic Drop-Shoulder V-Neck Jumper (Machine Knit)

MACHINE_SETUP

• Single-bed Japanese or plastic bed machine (4.5 mm or 5 mm mid-gauge preferred for DK). Ribber optional but recommended for hems; if no ribber, hand-transfer 1×1 rib or use mock rib.
• Cast-on: waste yarn + ravel cord method. Hang cast-on comb and 2–4 claw weights evenly after 10 rows waste; add more weights every 30–40 rows and at edges when shaping.
• Tension dial: main tension T6–T7 (test in swatch). Rib tension T4–T5. Carriage levers: both set for stocking stitch (KCII or equivalent closed for fair-isle off).
• Tools required: transfer tool, latch tool, decker comb (optional), ravel cord, tapestry needle, steam iron, blocking wires or sweater board.
• Always note carriage direction (COL = carriage on left, COR = carriage on right) and reset RC000 at each new section.

MATERIALS

• DK weight yarn (100 % wool or wool-blend recommended): 600/650/700/750 g (approx. 1320/1430/1540/1650 m).
• Waste yarn and ravel cord.
• Matching sewing thread for shoulder reinforcement (optional).

GAUGE_AND_TENSION

• Stocking stitch (main tension T6–T7): 22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm, measured after light steaming and cooling.
• 1×1 rib (T4–T5): 24 sts and 34 rows = 10 cm (slightly pulled).
• Swatch: Cast on 40 sts over waste/ravel, knit 40 rows main yarn, mark centre 22 sts / 30 rows, steam on reverse without pressure, re-measure. Adjust tension dial up/down ½ point if needed before starting garment.

SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

Sizes: S (M, L, XL)
Finished bust: 100 (110, 120, 130) cm
Body length (hem to shoulder): 60 (61, 62, 63) cm
Armhole depth: 22 (23, 24, 25) cm
Sleeve length to underarm: 45 cm
Upper sleeve width: 44 (46, 48, 50) cm
V-neck depth: 20 cm

(Schematic: simple rectangle back/front, mild taper sleeves, V front neckline. Drop shoulder = sleeve top sewn straight to armhole edge.)

BACK_PANEL

• Cast on 112 (122, 132, 142) sts with waste yarn. Knit 10 rows waste, 1 row ravel cord. COR.
• RC000: Change to main yarn, T4–T5. Work 1×1 rib for 20 rows (hang weights after row 2).
• RC020: Change to T6–T7. Knit straight in stocking stitch to RC134 (38 cm total hem-to-underarm). COR.
• Place marker threads on both edge needles for underarm.
• Continue straight to RC200 (200, 206, 212) (total length 60/61/62/63 cm). COR.
• Shoulder & neck: Place centre 22 (24, 26, 28) sts on waste yarn or stitch holder for back neck.
• Each side: 45 (49, 53, 57) sts. Knit 2 rows even, then bind off loosely with latch tool.
• Note: no armhole shaping (drop shoulder).

FRONT_PANEL

• Work exactly as Back to RC134 (underarm markers). COR. RC remains continuous.
• Continue straight to RC140 (start of V-neck, 20 cm below final shoulder). COR.
• V-neck split (RC140):
  – Carriage COR. Knit left 56 (61, 66, 71) sts, place right 56 (61, 66, 71) sts into holding position (or on waste).
  – Left neck edge is now centre.
• Shape left V (work each side separately):
  – At neck edge (right side of this half when COR), decrease 1 st every 3 rows 22 times as follows:
  RC140: COR, transfer neck-edge st 1 needle inward, put empty needle out of work. Knit to left.
  RC141: COL, knit to right.
  RC142: COR, knit to left (no dec).
  Repeat dec sequence until 22 decs completed (RC140–RC205). 34 (39, 44, 49) sts remain.
  – Then knit straight to RC200 (200, 206, 212). Bind off shoulder with latch tool.
• Right V: Return held sts to needles. Reset RC140, COL. Mirror decreases at neck edge (left side of this half). Same row counts and final stitch count. Bind off shoulder.

SLEEVES

(Make 2)

• Cast on 52 (54, 56, 58) sts with waste/ravel. COR.
• RC000: T4–T5, 1×1 rib 20 rows.
• RC020: T6–T7. Begin increases: at each end, bring 1 additional needle into work every 8 rows 12 times (use transfer tool to fill gap from adjacent st).
  – After 12 inc pairs: 76 (78, 80, 82) sts. RC020 + 96 rows = RC116.
• Knit straight to RC155 (total sleeve length 45 cm from cast-on). COR.
• Bind off loosely with latch tool.
• Mark centre of bind-off edge for shoulder placement.

NECKBAND

• Join both shoulders with mattress stitch or by rehanging and binding off together.
• With wrong side facing, rehang entire neckline onto machine: pick up 22 (24, 26, 28) back-neck sts + approx. 44 sts down each V side (1 st per 2 rows) + 1 centre-V st = roughly 111 (113, 115, 117) sts. Adjust evenly; centre-V st on a needle that will remain knit.
• T4–T5, work 1×1 rib for 12 rows. COR.
• Bind off very loosely with latch tool in rib pattern, or use sewn bind-off for maximum stretch.
• Steam lightly; the V will sit flat.

FINISHING

• Steam all pieces on reverse (hover iron, light steam) to measurements; do not press.
• Shoulder seams already joined.
• Set sleeves: match centre sleeve marker to shoulder seam, pin drop-shoulder top edge to armhole (22/23/24/25 cm depth), mattress-stitch.
• Side seams and sleeve seams: mattress stitch from hem to underarm continuously.
• Weave in ends.
• Final block: dress on sweater board or pin to schematic measurements, steam again, dry flat.
• Optional: reinforce shoulder seams with clear elastic thread.

ABBREVIATIONS

• COL/COR: carriage on left / carriage on right
• RC: row counter
• T: tension dial setting
• st(s): stitch(es)
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase
• 1×1 rib: alternate knit/purl needles
• hold: needles in holding position (HP)
• BO: bind off
• scrap/waste: waste yarn
• ND: needle