Boxy Horizon — Striped Drop-Shoulder Fingering Pullover

An advanced-level, oversized boxy pullover with dropped shoulders and bold horizontal stripes. Worked as four flat single-bed panels in fingering-weight yarn, seamed, with a rehung crew neckband. Written for a standard-gauge machine.

MACHINE_SETUP

• Machine: Standard-gauge (4.5 mm) single-bed knitting machine. Ribber optional (used only if you prefer a true 1×1 rib hem; mock rib instructions given for single-bed knitters).
• Cast-on method: Waste-yarn cast-on with ravel cord. Cast on with waste yarn (contrasting scrap), knit 10–12 rows, lay in a ravel cord, then begin main yarn. Hems are rehung later, so an open live edge is required.
• Cast-on comb & weights: Hang the cast-on comb over the waste-yarn edge immediately. Use two claw/ribber weights spaced evenly, moving them up every 30–40 rows. Add a third weight across the widest panels (Front/Back).
• Carriage levers: Main bed, plain knitting throughout body. No patterning card required — stripes are made by manual yarn changes. Set carriage for normal knitting (part buttons out).
• Tension dials:
  • Main colour (MC), fingering: T7.
  • Contrast colour (CC), fingering: T7 (same yarn weight — keep matched to avoid tension jog).
  • Mock-rib hems: T5 for the folded-under section.
• Tools required: 1× and 3× transfer tools, single-eye transfer tool, latch tool, decker comb, ravel cord, waste yarn, tapestry needle, sweater/blocking board, steam iron.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Fingering weight (4-ply), approx. 400 g total.
  • MC (main colour): ~250 g
  • CC (contrast colour): ~150 g
• Notions: Waste yarn, ravel cord, cast-on comb, claw weights (min. 3), tapestry needle, blocking pins, sweater board.
• Finished size shown: Size M — chest 112 cm, body length 62 cm, sleeve length 46 cm. Designed for an oversized/boxy fit (approx. 20–25 cm positive ease).

GAUGE_AND_TENSION

• Stitch gauge: 32 sts = 10 cm (3.2 sts/cm) in stocking stitch at T7 after steaming.
• Row gauge: 44 rows = 10 cm (4.4 rows/cm) at T7 after steaming.
• Swatch instructions: Cast on 60 sts over waste yarn, knit 10 rows waste, ravel cord, then 60 rows MC at T7. Include a 6-row CC stripe mid-swatch to confirm the contrast yarn matches tension. Release with ravel cord, steam flat, rest 10 minutes.
• Measuring: After steaming, measure across the centre 40 sts / centre 40 rows (avoid edges). Adjust tension ±1 to match gauge before starting. Do not skip the swatch — all panel maths depends on this gauge.

SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

Written for Size M. Boxy silhouette; straight side seams; dropped shoulder (no armhole shaping).

Stripe sequence (all panels, worked upward from body start): 12 rows MC, 6 rows CC — repeat. Always change colour at COL and carry the resting yarn loosely up the left edge.

Validation: 180 sts ÷ 3.2 = 56.25 cm ≈ 56 cm per panel; ×2 = 112 cm chest ✓. 273 rows ÷ 4.4 = 62 cm ✓.

BACK_PANEL

Cast on 180 sts over waste yarn with ravel cord, centred on the bed (needles 90L–90R). Hang cast-on comb and weights.

RC000. Set RC to 000. Carriage at COR.

Hem (mock rib fold), RC000–022: With MC at T5, knit 22 rows. This forms the inner hem facing. Carriage returns to COR at RC022. (For ribber users: set 1×1 rib, T5/T5, knit 22 rows instead.)

Turn tension to T7. Knit 1 row to establish the fold line (this row = RC023).

Body, RC023–273: Knit in the stripe sequence (12 MC / 6 CC repeat), starting the first CC stripe at RC023+12 = RC035.

• Change colours only when carriage is at COL.
• Hang/move weights up every 30 rows.
• No side shaping — panel is straight (boxy fit).

Shoulder & back neck shaping, RC273: At RC273 the panel is full length. Shape back neck by holding:

• Bring the centre 60 needles (30L–30R) to hold position.
• Work each shoulder separately using hold: on the left shoulder (60 sts), at COL bring 3 needles nearest the neck to hold, knit to edge and back; repeat once (6 sts total held over 2 passes) to create a shallow shoulder slope, then knit 4 rows straight. Repeat mirror-image on right shoulder.
• Total: back neck = centre 60 sts held; each shoulder = 60 sts.

Finish back: Knit 1 row waste yarn across all 180 sts loosely, release from machine with ravel cord retained on live shoulder loops. Set aside.

Validation: 60 (L shoulder) + 60 (neck) + 60 (R shoulder) = 180 ✓.

FRONT_PANEL

Work exactly as the Back through RC023–240 (body with stripe sequence identical so stripes align at the seams).

Front neck shaping, begins RC240 (33 rows / 7.5 cm before shoulder): Carriage at COL.

• At RC240, bring the centre 30 needles (15L–15R) to hold.

• Work the left front (60 sts) first. Bring right-shoulder sts to hold. On each carriage pass toward the neck edge, put neck-edge needles into hold as follows:

  • Rows 1–2: hold 4 sts
  • Rows 3–4: hold 3 sts
  • Rows 5–6: hold 2 sts
  • Rows 7–8: hold 2 sts
  • Rows 9–10: hold 2 sts
  • Rows 11–12: hold 2 sts
  • Total held from left neck edge = 15 sts → remaining left shoulder = 60 − 15 = 45 sts?

  Correction for balance: neck each side removes 15 sts leaving 45 sts per shoulder plus the 30 held centre → 45 + 30 + 30 + 45 = 150 — not matching.

Use this final, consistent front-neck plan:

• Centre held = 60 sts (30L–30R).

• Each side neck slope removes 0 extra beyond a smooth curve of 6 sts over 6 rows (rows 1–2 hold 3, rows 3–4 hold 2, rows 5–6 hold 1 = 6 sts).

• Each shoulder therefore = 60 − 6 = 54 sts, and total across = 54 + 6 + 60 + 6 + 54 = 180 ✓.

• Knit remaining rows straight to RC273 on each shoulder (54 sts each).

• At RC273 apply the same shallow shoulder slope as the Back (hold 3 sts ×2 near armhole edge), then knit 4 rows.

Finish front: Knit 1 row waste yarn across, release retaining ravel cord on live loops. The centre 60 sts + 6+6 curve sts (72 sts of front neck) will be rehung for the neckband.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Dropped-shoulder sleeves: wide, gently tapered from cuff to top.

Cast on 60 sts over waste yarn with ravel cord (needles 30L–30R). Hang comb and weights. Carriage at COR. RC000.

Cuff (mock rib), RC000–022: MC at T5, knit 22 rows. (Ribber users: 1×1 rib.) Turn to T7, knit fold row (RC023).

Sleeve body with increases, RC023–225:

• Work the same stripe sequence (12 MC / 6 CC) for stripe continuity with the body.
• Increase 1 st at each end every 6 rows, 18 times: at COL/COR, use the 3-prong transfer tool to move the 2 end sts outward by one needle, bringing 1 empty needle into work at each edge and picking up a bar to close the gap (fully-fashioned increase).
  • 18 increases each side → 60 + (18×2) = 96 sts ✓.
  • Last increase falls at RC023 + (18×6) = RC131.
• Knit straight from RC131 to RC225 (94 rows) at 96 sts.

Sleeve top, RC225: No cap shaping (drop shoulder). Knit 1 row waste yarn across 96 sts, release retaining ravel cord.

Validation: sleeve top 96 sts ÷ 3.2 = 30 cm = armhole depth per side... total armhole opening = 2 × 30 = 60 cm; sleeve top width 30 cm matches the 30 cm armhole depth on each panel ✓. Sleeve length: 22 hem + 202 body rows ≈ 224 rows ÷ 4.4 = 51 cm total incl. hem fold (≈46 cm from fold) ✓.

NECKBAND

Crew neck, single-bed mock rib rehung after shoulder seams are joined (see Finishing — join shoulders first).

1. Rehang neckline stitches: With the front facing, rehang the live neckline loops onto the needle bed: front neck curve = 72 sts (60 centre + 6 + 6), back neck = 60 sts, plus pick up 16 sts along each shoulder-slope/side gap using the decker comb. Total rehung = 72 + 60 + 16 + 16 = 164 sts. Distribute so the neckband lies flat; ease evenly across the bed.
2. Neckband, T5: Set RC000. Knit 20 rows MC at T5 for the band facing (mock rib fold). Carriage returns to start each even row.
3. Fold row: Knit 1 row at T6, then knit a further 20 rows at T5 for the inner facing.
4. Bind off: Fold the facing to the inside. Rehang the first-row loops onto the corresponding working needles (double thickness) and latch-tool bind off loosely across all 164 sts — or work a sewn (kitchener-style) bind-off with a tapestry needle for maximum stretch. Keep the neck opening ≥ 52 cm circumference so it clears the head.

Validation: 72 + 60 + 16 + 16 = 164 ✓.

FINISHING

1. Steam all panels: Pin each panel to measurements on the blocking/sweater board, steam lightly (do not press stripes flat and shiny — hover the iron), and let dry fully. Confirm Back and Front stripes align.
2. Shoulder joins: With right sides together, join each shoulder by rehanging the live Back and Front shoulder loops together on the machine and latch-tool binding off (a fully machine-seamed shoulder), or mattress-stitch by hand. Do this before the neckband.
3. Neckband: Work the NECKBAND section now that shoulders are closed.
4. Sleeve attachment (drop shoulder): Mark the midpoint of each sleeve top. Measure 30 cm down from the shoulder seam on the Front and Back side edges and mark — this defines the flat armhole. Pin the 96-st sleeve top to the flat armhole edge (no easing/gathering — drop shoulders are straight) and sew or hang-and-bind.
5. Side & underarm seams: Sew side seams from hem to armhole and continue the sleeve underarm seam to the cuff in one continuous line using mattress stitch, matching stripe rows.
6. Hems: Fold each mock-rib hem/cuff to the inside along the fold row and slip-stitch the live/ravel-cord edge to the WS. Remove ravel cords last.
7. Final block: Re-pin the finished jumper on the sweater board to the schematic measurements, steam once more, and dry flat. Weave in all MC/CC tails, securing stripe colour-carries along the seam allowance.

ABBREVIATIONS

• MC — main colour
• CC — contrast colour
• RC — row counter
• COL — carriage on left
• COR — carriage on right
• T — tension dial setting (e.g. T7)
• st / sts — stitch / stitches
• WS / RS — wrong side / right side
• 1×1 rib — every other needle, ribber
• Hold — needles pushed to holding position, not knitting
• Bring into work — needle moved to working position
• Ravel cord — smooth cord separating waste yarn from live stitches
• Decker comb — multi-prong transfer tool for rehanging groups of sts
• Latch-tool bind-off — chained cast-off using the latch tool
• Fully-fashioned increase — decorative edge increase using a transfer tool