Chibi Raichu

Crochet Toy — Simple Shapes (Amigurumi)

A squat, super-deformed Raichu about 5 inches (13 cm) tall, made from basic spheres, cones, and tubes. Unofficial fan pattern for personal use; not affiliated with Nintendo or Game Freak.

Skill level: Beginner
Skills used: Magic ring, single crochet, increase, decrease, working in a spiral, sewing pieces together.

Finished Size

About 5 inches (13 cm) tall including ears, and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide, using worsted yarn and a US E-4 (3.5 mm) hook. Size will change if you use a different yarn or hook.

Materials

• Worsted weight (category 4) yarn
  • Orange (main body and head): 45 yd (41 m)
  • Brown (ears and tail stem): 20 yd (18 m)
  • Yellow (cheeks, inner ears, lightning bolt): 15 yd (14 m)
  • Cream or off-white (belly): 8 yd (7 m)
  • Black (face embroidery): small scrap
  • White (optional eye highlights): small scrap
• Hook: US E-4 (3.5 mm), or 1–2 sizes smaller than the yarn label so the fabric is tight
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• 2 safety eyes, 8 mm (5/16 in), or black yarn to embroider eyes
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Straight pins
• Scissors

Color note: Choose a warm golden-orange (pumpkin or goldfish), not neon. Brown should be chocolate or chestnut. Yellow should be bright.

Gauge

5 sc and 5 rnds = 1 inch (2.5 cm) in single crochet worked in the round.

Gauge is not critical, but the fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show. If you see gaps, go down a hook size.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch — chain
• sc — single crochet
• inc — increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec — decrease (sc2tog; invisible decrease optional)
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• MR — magic ring
• FO — fasten off
• RS — right side
• rep — repeat
• ( ) — work the stitches in parentheses the number of times given
• [ ] — stitch count at the end of the round or row

Pattern Notes

• Use US crochet terms throughout.
• Pieces in the round are worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join and do not chain at the start of a round. Mark the first stitch of every round and move the marker up.
• Work tightly for a smooth amigurumi surface.
• Stuff as you go. It is hard to stuff a closed piece later.
• Invisible decrease (optional): Insert hook through the front loop only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through 2. Use this for smoother decreases on the head and body.
• Magic ring alternative: Ch 2, work the stated number of sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, then pull the tail to close the hole.
• Pin every piece in place before sewing. Check both the front and the side view.
• Safety eyes are a choking hazard. Do not use them on a toy for a child under 3 years. Embroider the eyes instead.

Head

With orange. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12] (6 inc → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (Sc, inc) around. [18] (6 rep → 6 sc + 6 inc = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24] (6 rep → 12 sc + 6 inc = 24 ✓)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30] (6 rep → 18 sc + 6 inc = 30 ✓)
Rnds 6–11: Sc around for 6 rnds. [30]
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) around. [24] (6 rep → 18 sc + 6 dec = 24 ✓)
Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) around. [18] (6 rep → 12 sc + 6 dec = 18 ✓)

Place eyes now. Insert 8 mm safety eyes between Rnds 7 and 8, 6 stitches apart, centered on the face. If you are embroidering eyes, mark the same spots with pins and stitch them after stuffing.

Rnd 14: (Sc, dec) around. [12] (6 rep → 6 sc + 6 dec = 12 ✓)
Stuff the head firmly, pushing stuffing into a round shape. Add more as you close.
Rnd 15: Dec around. [6] (6 dec → 12 − 6 = 6 ✓)

FO, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Weave in the end.

Body

With orange. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12] (6 inc → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (Sc, inc) around. [18] (6 rep → 6 sc + 6 inc = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24] (6 rep → 12 sc + 6 inc = 24 ✓)
Rnds 5–8: Sc around for 4 rnds. [24]
Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) around. [18] (6 rep → 12 sc + 6 dec = 18 ✓)
Rnd 10: (Sc, dec) around. [12] (6 rep → 6 sc + 6 dec = 12 ✓)

Stuff the body firmly. FO, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail for sewing. Do not close the remaining 12-st opening — this is sewn to the head.

Ears (make 2)

With brown. Long pointed cones. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. [4]
Rnd 2: (Sc, inc) around. [6] (2 rep → 2 sc + 2 inc = 6 ✓)
Rnd 3: Sc around. [6]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [8] (2 rep → 4 sc + 2 inc = 8 ✓)
Rnd 5: Sc around. [8]
Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) around. [10] (2 rep → 6 sc + 2 inc = 10 ✓)
Rnds 7–10: Sc around for 4 rnds. [10]
Rnd 11: (4 sc, inc) around. [12] (2 rep → 8 sc + 2 inc = 12 ✓)
Rnds 12–13: Sc around for 2 rnds. [12]

FO, leaving a 10 in (25 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff lightly in the lower half only, so the tips stay softly pointed. Do not overstuff.

Inner Ears (make 2)

With yellow. One-row teardrops.

Ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 dc in last ch. [5]

FO, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. The piece is a small pointed petal. Sew one to the front (inner) face of each brown ear, pointed end toward the ear tip, leaving a brown border all around.

Cheeks (make 2)

With yellow. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: (Sc, inc) around. [9] (3 rep → 3 sc + 3 inc = 9 ✓)

Sl st in the first sc to smooth the edge. FO, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail. Flatten into a circle. Do not stuff.

Belly

With cream. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12] (6 inc → 6 + 6 = 12 ✓)
Rnd 3: (Sc, inc) around. [18] (6 rep → 6 sc + 6 inc = 18 ✓)
Rnd 4: Sc around. [18]

Sl st in the first sc. FO, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail. Flatten. Do not stuff.

Arms (make 2)

With orange. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnds 2–5: Sc around for 4 rnds. [6]

FO, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail. Do not stuff, or push in a pea-sized bit of fiberfill. Flatten the open end slightly for sewing.

Legs (make 2)

With orange. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnd 2: (Sc, inc) around. [9] (3 rep → 3 sc + 3 inc = 9 ✓)
Rnds 3–4: Sc around for 2 rnds. [9]

Stuff lightly. FO, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail. Do not close the opening; it is sewn to the body.

Tail Stem

With brown. Worked in a spiral.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
Rnds 2–10: Sc around for 9 rnds. [6]

FO, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail for sewing to the body. Stuff very lightly so the stem can curve. Leave the starting MR end as the tip that joins the lightning bolt.

Lightning Bolt (make 2)

With yellow. Worked flat, in rows. Chain-1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch. Make two identical pieces; they will be joined.

Row 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. [3]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc, inc. [5] (2 inc → 3 + 2 = 5 ✓)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across. [5]
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked. [3]
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in 3 sts, ch 5.
Row 6: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 sts. [7] (4 sc on the ch + 3 sc = 7 ✓)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across. [7]
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, leave last 4 sts unworked. [3]
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in 3 sts, ch 4.
Row 10: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sc in next 3 sts. [6] (3 sc on the ch + 3 sc = 6 ✓)

FO on the first piece. Do not fasten off the second piece.

Join the bolt: Place the two pieces together, wrong sides facing, matching the zigzag. With the working yarn of the second piece, sc evenly around through both layers. Work 3 sc in each outer point and dec at each inner corner so the bolt stays sharp. Pause when a small gap remains, push in a pinch of stuffing, then close. FO and weave in ends, leaving one 8 in (20 cm) tail to sew the bolt to the tail stem.

Face

Do this after the head is closed and before sewing on the ears (cheeks can go on now).

1. Eyes (if embroidering): With black, satin-stitch two small vertical ovals over the marked spots between Rnds 7 and 8, 6 sts apart. Optional: add a tiny white yarn stitch at the upper outer corner of each eye for a highlight.
2. Cheeks: Pin a yellow cheek on each side, just below and slightly outside each eye, covering about Rnds 9–11. Whip stitch around the edge with the yellow tail. The cheeks should sit like round pads, not cover the eyes.
3. Mouth: With black, embroider a small shallow “w” or a tiny curved smile, centered, about 2 rnds below the eyes (around Rnd 10). Keep it 3–4 sts wide. Optional: one small vertical stitch for a nose just above the smile.
4. Weave in all face ends through the stuffing so nothing shows on the back of the head.

Assembly

Use matching yarn tails and a yarn needle. Pin first, then sew with whip stitch unless noted. Check the toy from the front and from the side before the stitches go in.

1. Inner ears to ears. Already sewn if you followed the Inner Ears section. Yellow teardrop on the front of each brown cone, point toward the tip.

2. Ears to head. Pin the open (Rnd 13) end of each ear to the upper sides of the head, covering about Rnds 4–8. The ears sit slightly toward the back, not on the exact center top, and angle up and out at about 45 degrees. The yellow inners face forward. There should be about 4–6 sts of orange showing across the crown between the ears. Sew firmly around the opening.

3. Belly to body. Center the cream belly on the front of the body, covering about Rnds 4–9. The top of the belly should sit just below where the head will attach. Whip stitch around the edge.

4. Head to body. Pin the body’s 12-st opening to the bottom center of the head (over the closed decrease). The face should look straight forward. Whip stitch all the way around, adding a little extra stuffing at the neck if the join looks sunken. The head should be large and the body small — that is the chibi proportion.

5. Arms. Flatten the open end of each arm and sew to the sides of the body, just under the head, at about body Rnds 3–4. Angle them slightly forward.

6. Legs. Sew the open end of each leg to the bottom of the body, toward the front, about 3–4 sts apart. Front placement is what lets the toy sit up. The legs are short stubs; they should peek out from under the body, not hang long.

7. Lightning bolt to tail stem. Sew the top (Row 1 point) of the yellow bolt over the MR end of the brown stem, overlapping about ¼ in (6 mm) so no gap shows. The bolt should read as the tip of the tail.

8. Tail to body. Sew the open end of the brown stem to the lower back of the body, just above the legs and slightly off-center if you want a playful curve. The bolt points up and a little to one side. Tack the stem in a gentle curve with a couple of hidden stitches if it flops.

Finishing

• Weave in every remaining tail, burying ends inside the stuffing.
• Roll the head and body between your palms to round the spheres.
• Adjust ears so they match in height and angle.
• If a seam dimples, tease a little extra stuffing toward it with the needle.
• Optional keychain: thread a jump ring through a stitch at the top of the head, between the ears.

Care

Hand wash cold, do not wring. Squeeze in a towel and air dry. If you used safety eyes, do not machine wash. Reshape the ears and bolt while damp.

Stitch-Count Recap

Enjoy your chibi Raichu!