Classic Half Double Crochet Pullover

Elbow-Length Set-In Sleeves

Skill level: Intermediate

A classic crew-neck pullover worked flat in pieces from the bottom up and seamed. The fabric is half double crochet at a firm gauge so the set-in armholes hold their shape. Hem and cuffs are single-crochet ribbing worked in the back loop only. Sleeves are elbow length.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

Instructions are written for Small with changes for Medium, Large, XL, and 2XL in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

To fit bust: 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" [86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm]

Finished bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" [96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm]

Ease: Approximately 2–4" [5–10 cm] positive ease at the bust (classic fit)

Choose the size by finished bust, not by the to-fit range. Large = 46" finished; XL = 50" finished.

Finished measurements

• Back/front width: 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)" [48.5 (53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5) cm]
• Length: 24 (24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)" [61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66) cm]
• Length to underarm (includes ribbing): 16" [40.5 cm]
• Armhole depth: 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" [20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm]
• Cross-back (between armholes): 15.5 (16.5, 18, 19, 20)" [39.5 (42, 45.5, 48.5, 51) cm]
• Shoulder width: 4.25 (4.5, 5, 5.25, 5.5)" [11 (11.5, 12.5, 13.5, 14) cm]
• Sleeve length to underarm (includes cuff): 9 (9, 9.5, 9.5, 10)" [23 (23, 24, 24, 25.5) cm]
• Upper arm: 13 (14, 15, 16.5, 18)" [33 (35.5, 38, 42, 45.5) cm]
• Cuff circumference: 8 (9, 9.5, 10, 11)" [20.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 28) cm]

Sleeves are designed to end at the elbow.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC 4), 1100 (1250, 1450, 1650, 1900) yd [1005 (1145, 1325, 1510, 1740) m]. A smooth wool, wool blend, or acrylic that can produce a firm hdc fabric is ideal.
• Hook: US G-6 (4.0 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
• Notions: Yarn needle, 4 stitch markers, scissors, tape measure

Gauge

4 hdc and 3 hdc rows = 1" [2.5 cm] with US G-6 (4.0 mm), blocked.

16 hdc and 12 hdc rows = 4" [10 cm].

Work a swatch at least 6" [15 cm] square. Block it the same way you will block the sweater, then measure the center 4". This gauge is dense on purpose — it gives the set-in armholes structure. If you have too many stitches per inch, go up a hook size; if you have too few, go down. Do not skip the gauge swatch. A ½ stitch difference per inch changes the bust by about 2.5".

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO — back loop only
• ch — chain
• hdc — half double crochet
• hdc2tog — half double crochet 2 together (decrease 1)
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sc — single crochet
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• WS — wrong side

hdc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Pattern notes

• Pullover is worked in four pieces: Back, Front, and two Sleeves.
• Hem and cuff ribbing is worked sideways in sc BLO, then the body/sleeve is worked across the long edge.
• Turning chain: Ch 1 at the start of every hdc row. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Work the first hdc in the first stitch of the row. Work the last hdc in the last hdc of the previous row (not in the turning chain).
• When a row begins with slip stitches, those slip stitches are not counted in the new stitch count; they form the underarm/shoulder step.
• Stitch counts appear in bold at the end of shaping rows. Sizes read S (M, L, XL, 2XL).
• Block all pieces before seaming. Set-in sleeves will not sit correctly on unblocked fabric.

BACK

Hem ribbing

Ch 11.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. 10 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have worked 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) rows total, ending with a WS row. The long edge should measure 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)" [48.5 (53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5) cm]. Add or omit one row if needed so the long edge matches this width.

Do not fasten off. Turn the ribbing so the long edge is on top, ready to work the body. RS of Row 1 of ribbing is the RS of the Back.

Body

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) hdc evenly across the long edge of the ribbing (1 hdc in each row end), turn. 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) hdc ✓ (19 × 4 = 76; 21 × 4 = 84; 23 × 4 = 92; 25 × 4 = 100; 27 × 4 = 108).

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until the piece measures 16" [40.5 cm] from the bottom edge of the ribbing, ending with a WS row.

Armhole shaping

Row 1 (RS): Sl st in first 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, ch 1, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. 68 (74, 80, 86, 92) hdc ✓ (76 − 8 = 68; 84 − 10 = 74; 92 − 12 = 80; 100 − 14 = 86; 108 − 16 = 92).

Decrease row: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. 2 sts decreased.

Rep Decrease row 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) more times. 62 (66, 72, 76, 80) hdc ✓ (68 − 6 = 62; 74 − 8 = 66; 80 − 8 = 72; 86 − 10 = 76; 92 − 12 = 80).

Work even in hdc (ch 1, hdc in each st across) until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" [20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm], ending with a WS row. Measure the armhole in a straight line from the first underarm step.

Place markers to divide the stitches: 17 (18, 20, 21, 22) shoulder, 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) neck, 17 (18, 20, 21, 22) shoulder. 17 + 28 + 17 = 62; 18 + 30 + 18 = 66; 20 + 32 + 20 = 72; 21 + 34 + 21 = 76; 22 + 36 + 22 = 80 ✓

Shoulder shaping

Next row (RS): Sl st in first 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, ch 1, hdc in next 9 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Fasten off this shoulder. 8 + 9 = 17; 9 + 9 = 18; 10 + 10 = 20; 10 + 11 = 21; 11 + 11 = 22 ✓

Skip the center 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) neck sts. Join yarn with sl st in the next st, ch 1, hdc in same st and in next 8 (8, 9, 10, 10) sts, leave remaining 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts unworked. Fasten off. 9 (9, 10, 11, 11) hdc.

FRONT

Work hem ribbing and body exactly as for Back until the piece measures 16" [40.5 cm] from the bottom edge of the ribbing, ending with a WS row. 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) hdc.

Armhole shaping

Work armhole shaping exactly as for Back until 62 (66, 72, 76, 80) hdc remain.

Work even in hdc until the armhole measures 5.5 (6, 6.25, 6.75, 7)" [14 (15, 16, 17, 18) cm], ending with a WS row. Neck shaping begins here, 2.5 (2.5, 2.75, 2.75, 3)" before the full armhole depth.

Shape right front neck

(The first stitches of a RS row are the wearer’s right front.)

Dividing row (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 24 (25, 28, 29, 31) sts, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. 24 (25, 28, 29, 31) hdc.

Neck decrease row (WS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn. 1 st decreased at neck.

Neck decrease row (RS): Ch 1, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. 1 st decreased at neck.

Continue decreasing 1 st at the neck edge every row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) more times — 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) neck decreases total. 17 (18, 20, 21, 22) hdc ✓ (24 − 7 = 17; 25 − 7 = 18; 28 − 8 = 20; 29 − 8 = 21; 31 − 9 = 22).

Work even on these 17 (18, 20, 21, 22) sts until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" [20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm], matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

Shoulder row (RS): Sl st in first 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, ch 1, hdc in remaining 9 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Fasten off.

Shape left front neck

With RS facing, skip the center 14 (16, 16, 18, 18) sts of the Dividing row. Join yarn with sl st in the next st.

Setup row (RS): Ch 1, hdc in same st as join and in each remaining st to end, turn. 24 (25, 28, 29, 31) hdc ✓ (62 − 24 − 14 = 24; 66 − 25 − 16 = 25; 72 − 28 − 16 = 28; 76 − 29 − 18 = 29; 80 − 31 − 18 = 31).

Neck decrease row (WS): Ch 1, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn.

Neck decrease row (RS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn.

Continue decreasing 1 st at the neck edge every row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) more times — 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) neck decreases total. 17 (18, 20, 21, 22) hdc ✓

Work even until the armhole matches the right front and the Back, ending with a WS row.

Shoulder row (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 9 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts, leave remaining 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts unworked. Fasten off.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Cuff ribbing

Ch 9.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. 8 sc (about 2" [5 cm] of ribbing height).

Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have worked 32 (36, 38, 40, 44) rows total, ending with a WS row. The long edge should measure 8 (9, 9.5, 10, 11)" [20.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 28) cm].

Do not fasten off. Turn the ribbing so the long edge is on top.

Sleeve body

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 32 (36, 38, 40, 44) hdc evenly across the long edge (1 hdc in each row end), turn. 32 (36, 38, 40, 44) hdc ✓ (8 × 4 = 32; 9 × 4 = 36; 9.5 × 4 = 38; 10 × 4 = 40; 11 × 4 = 44).

Increase row: Ch 1, hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc across to last 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last st, turn. 2 sts increased.

Work increases as follows, then work even (if needed) until the sleeve measures 9 (9, 9.5, 9.5, 10)" [23 (23, 24, 24, 25.5) cm] from the bottom of the cuff, ending with a WS row.

• Small and Medium: Work Increase row every other row 10 times. 52 (56) hdc ✓ (32 + 20 = 52; 36 + 20 = 56).
• Large: Work Increase row every other row 11 times. 60 hdc ✓ (38 + 22 = 60).
• XL: Work Increase row every other row 9 times, then every row 4 times. 66 hdc ✓ (40 + 18 + 8 = 66).
• 2XL: Work Increase row every other row 10 times, then every row 4 times. 72 hdc ✓ (44 + 20 + 8 = 72).

Upper arm: 52 (56, 60, 66, 72) hdc = 13 (14, 15, 16.5, 18)" ✓

Sleeve cap (set-in)

Row 1 (RS): Sl st in first 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, ch 1, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. 44 (46, 48, 52, 56) hdc ✓ (52 − 8 = 44; 56 − 10 = 46; 60 − 12 = 48; 66 − 14 = 52; 72 − 16 = 56). This underarm step matches the Back/Front underarm.

Decrease row: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. 2 sts decreased.

Rep Decrease row 15 (16, 16, 18, 19) times. 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) hdc remain ✓ (44 − 30 = 14; 46 − 32 = 14; 48 − 32 = 16; 52 − 36 = 16; 56 − 38 = 18).

Fasten off. Cap is approximately 5.25 (5.75, 5.75, 6.25, 6.75)" [13.5 (14.5, 14.5, 16, 17) cm] deep and is meant to be slightly shorter than the armhole so it eases in.

FINISHING

Weave in ends that will be trapped in seams; leave the rest until after seaming. Block all four pieces to the finished measurements. Pin to size and wet-block or steam-block, then let dry completely. Blocking is not optional for set-in sleeves.

Shoulder seams

With RS together, whipstitch or mattress-stitch each Front shoulder to the matching Back shoulder (17 (18, 20, 21, 22) sts each side). The stepped shoulder edges nest together.

Set in sleeves

With RS together, pin a sleeve cap into an armhole:

1. Match the center of the cap to the shoulder seam.
2. Match each sleeve underarm step to the corresponding body underarm step (4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts each side).
3. Ease the remaining cap evenly along the armhole curve. The cap is slightly shorter than the armhole on purpose — distribute the extra armhole length, do not stretch the cap.

Sew with whipstitch or mattress stitch. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Side and underarm seams

With RS together, sew each side from the hem to the underarm, then continue along the sleeve from underarm to cuff, as one continuous seam. Match ribbing rows carefully so the hem and cuff ribbing align.

Neckband

With RS facing, join yarn at the right shoulder seam.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the neck opening, working 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in each row end along the front neck slopes, and 1 sc in each corner as needed to keep the opening flat. Do not work tightly — the pullover must pass over the head. Join with sl st to first sc.

Rnds 2–5: Ch 1, sc BLO in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc.

If the neckband draws in too much, go up one hook size for Rnds 2–5. Fasten off.

Final

Weave in remaining ends. Lightly steam the seams and neckband. The hem ribbing should sit at the hip; the sleeves should end at the elbow.

Fit checklist

• Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" with pieces seamed.
• Length from hem to shoulder: 24 (24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)".
• Armhole depth: 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)".
• Elbow sleeve (cuff to underarm): 9 (9, 9.5, 9.5, 10)".

If the body is long or short, add or subtract even hdc rows before the armhole; do not change the 16" underarm length unless you also change overall length. If the sleeves are long or short, add or subtract even rows after the increases are complete, before the cap.