purlJam

# Cosy Cuff-Down Socks — Worsted Weight
### Beginner-Friendly Pattern | Men's UK Size 34 | Makes 1 Pair

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## Note on Sizing
UK shoe size 34 corresponds to a foot length of approximately **22cm (8¾")**, which is at the smaller end of the adult range. This pattern is sized accordingly. If a larger size is needed, see "Sizing Adjustments" at the end.

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## Finished Measurements
- **Foot circumference:** 24cm (9½") — designed with ~2cm negative ease for a snug fit
- **Foot length:** 22cm (8¾") — adjustable
- **Leg length from cuff to heel:** 18cm (7")

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran) wool or wool blend, ~200g total
  - Suggested: 1–2 balls of a hard-wearing sock-suitable worsted (look for nylon content for durability)
- **Needles:** 4mm (UK 8 / US 6) — set of 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs), or one long circular for magic loop
  - Optional: 3.5mm needles for cuff if you prefer a snugger top
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch marker, scissors, tape measure

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## Tension (Gauge)
**20 sts × 28 rounds = 10cm (4")** in stocking stitch worked in the round on 4mm needles, after gentle blocking.

⚠️ **Please swatch!** Sock tension is critical — too loose and they'll wear out quickly; too tight and they won't fit. Adjust needle size if needed.

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## Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **sl1** — slip 1 stitch purlwise (with yarn at back unless noted)
- **k2tog** — knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together through back loops (left-leaning decrease)
- **psso** — pass slipped stitch over
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd(s)** — round(s)
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side

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## Construction Overview
These socks are worked **cuff-down** in the round:
**Cuff → Leg → Heel flap (flat) → Heel turn → Gusset → Foot → Toe → Kitchener graft**

### Setting Up Your Needles
- **DPN method:** Distribute 48 sts across 4 needles (12 sts each); knit with the 5th. Round begins at the back of the leg.
- **Magic loop:** Place 24 sts on each half of the cable.

Place a marker for the beginning of the round.

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## PATTERN

### 1. Cuff
**Cast on 48 sts** using a stretchy long-tail cast-on. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

*Check: 48 sts ÷ 4 = 12 sts per DPN ✓ — divisible by 4 for k2p2 rib ✓*

**Rnds 1–14:** *k2, p2;* rep from * to end of round.

Cuff measures approximately 5cm (2"). 

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### 2. Leg
**Rnds 15 onward:** Knit every round in stocking stitch.

Continue until leg measures **18cm (7")** from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel. End ready to begin a new round.

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### 3. Heel Flap (worked flat on half the stitches)
The heel flap is worked back and forth on **24 sts**. Place the remaining 24 sts on hold (these become the instep).

*Check: 48 ÷ 2 = 24 heel sts + 24 instep sts ✓*

**Set-up:** With RS facing, knit across the first 24 sts. Turn. The remaining 24 sts will be ignored for now (slip them onto one needle or leave on the cable).

**Row 1 (WS):** sl1, p23. Turn.
**Row 2 (RS):** *sl1, k1;* rep from * to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 a total of **12 times** (24 rows worked). The slip-stitch pattern creates a thick, durable heel.

*Check: 24 rows = approx. 6cm — correct depth for size 34 ✓*

End having just completed Row 1 (a WS purl row).

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### 4. Heel Turn (short rows)
You'll now shape the cup of the heel using short rows. Don't panic if it looks odd — it will all make sense!

**Row 1 (RS):** sl1, k13, ssk, k1, turn. *(leaves sts unworked)*
**Row 2 (WS):** sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 3 (RS):** sl1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk (closing gap), k1, turn.
**Row 4 (WS):** sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog (closing gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked. End on a RS row.

**You should have 14 heel sts remaining.** ✓

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### 5. Gusset Pick-Up & Decrease
You'll now rejoin to working in the round and shape the gusset.

**Set-up round:**
- With RS facing, knit across 14 heel sts.
- **Pick up and knit 12 sts** along the left edge of the heel flap (1 st in each slipped edge stitch).
- Knit across the 24 held instep sts.
- **Pick up and knit 12 sts** along the right edge of the heel flap.
- Knit 7 sts (half of heel) to reach the new beginning of round (centre of heel).

*Check: 14 + 12 + 24 + 12 = 62 sts total ✓*

**Stitch arrangement** (for clarity):
- Needle 1 (sole, right side): 7 heel sts + 12 picked-up sts = 19 sts
- Needle 2 (instep): 24 sts
- Needle 3 (sole, left side): 12 picked-up sts + 7 heel sts = 19 sts

**Gusset decrease round:**
- Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: knit all 24 sts (instep — no decreases)
- Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end

**Plain round:** Knit all sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds until **48 sts remain** (7 decrease rounds).

*Check: 62 − (7 × 2) = 62 − 14 = 48 sts ✓*

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### 6. Foot
Knit every round in stocking stitch.

Continue until foot measures **17cm (6¾")** from back of heel, or **5cm (2") less than desired total foot length**.

*Check: 22cm − 5cm toe allowance = 17cm ✓*

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### 7. Toe
Rearrange sts so you have 24 sts on the sole and 24 sts on the instep.

**Decrease round:**
- Needle 1 (sole): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2 (instep): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

(4 sts decreased per decrease round)

**Toe sequence:**
- Work decrease round, then 2 plain rounds — rep 2 times *(48 → 40 sts)*
- Work decrease round, then 1 plain round — rep 3 times *(40 → 28 sts)*
- Work decrease round only — 1 time *(28 → 24 sts)*

*Check: 48 − 8 − 12 − 4 = 24 sts ✓*

You should have **24 sts remaining** (12 sole + 12 instep).

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### 8. Finishing — Kitchener Stitch
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about **45cm (18")**. Thread onto a tapestry needle.

Hold the two needles parallel with WS together (sole needle in front, instep at back). Graft the toe closed using **Kitchener stitch**:

1. **Set-up:** Front needle — pass tapestry needle through 1st st **purlwise**, leave on. Back needle — pass through 1st st **knitwise**, leave on.
2. **Repeat:**
   - Front: knitwise, slip off; then purlwise, leave on.
   - Back: purlwise, slip off; then knitwise, leave on.
3. Continue until all sts are grafted. Tighten gently to match tension.

📺 *If new to Kitchener stitch, search "Kitchener stitch tutorial" online — VeryPink Knits and Purl Soho both have excellent video guides.*

Weave in all ends on the WS using the tapestry needle. Block gently by soaking in lukewarm water with wool wash, squeezing out excess, and laying flat to dry (or use sock blockers for a neat finish).

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### 9. Make the Second Sock!
Repeat the entire pattern to make the second sock. 🧦🧦

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## Sizing Adjustments
To resize for a larger foot:
| Approx. UK Size | Foot length | Cast-on | Heel flap sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| 34 (this pattern) | 22cm | 48 sts | 24 sts |
| 39–40 | 25cm | 52 sts | 26 sts |
| 43–44 | 28cm | 56 sts | 28 sts |

Keep cast-on divisible by 4, and adjust foot length in step 6 (always leave 5cm for the toe).

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## Beginner Tips
- **Try them on!** The biggest advantage of cuff-down: slip the sock onto the foot before starting the toe to check length.
- **Avoid ladders between needles:** give the first stitch on each needle an extra tug.
- **Lifelines:** thread waste yarn through your stitches before the heel turn — if you make a mistake, you can rip back to safety.
- **Count rows on the heel flap:** the slipped edge stitches make this easy — count the chain-like bumps along the edge (each = 2 rows).

Happy knitting! 🧶