purlJam

# Cosy Worsted Cuff-Down Socks
### A Beginner-Friendly Pattern (Makes a Pair)

These warm, speedy socks are the perfect introduction to sock knitting. Worked in worsted weight yarn on 4 mm needles, they knit up much faster than traditional fingering-weight socks while teaching you all the classic techniques: ribbed cuff, heel flap, heel turn, gusset, and Kitchener-stitch toe. Wonderful as boot socks, bed socks, or cosy house socks.

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## Sizes

| Size | Foot Circumference | Sts to Cast On |
|------|-------------------|----------------|
| Small (Child / Women's Small) | 18 cm (7") | 36 sts |
| **Medium (Women's Average)** | **20 cm (8")** | **40 sts** |
| Large (Men's Average) | 22 cm (8¾") | 44 sts |

Instructions are written for **Medium**, with **Small** and **Large** in brackets: M (S, L).

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## Materials

- **Yarn**: Approx. 200–250 m (220–275 yds) worsted weight wool or wool blend (machine-washable sock yarn recommended). One 100 g ball is usually enough for a pair of Medium socks.
- **Needles**: 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) — set of 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs), or one long circular for magic loop
- **Notions**: Tapestry / darning needle, stitch marker, scissors

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## Tension (Gauge)

**20 sts × 28 rows = 10 cm (4") in stocking stitch** worked in the round on 4 mm needles, after gentle blocking.

> ⚠️ **Tension matters for socks!** Too loose and they slip; too tight and they pinch. Knit a small swatch in the round and adjust needle size if needed.

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## Abbreviations (UK terminology)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **k2tog** – knit 2 sts together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit those 2 sts together through back loops (left-leaning decrease)
- **sl1** – slip 1 stitch purlwise
- **wyif** – with yarn in front
- **wyib** – with yarn in back
- **rep** – repeat
- **rnd(s)** – round(s)
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side

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## Construction Overview

You will work each sock from the top down:
**Cuff → Leg → Heel Flap → Heel Turn → Gusset → Foot → Toe → Graft closed.**

### Setting Up Your Needles

**Using DPNs (4 needles holding sts + 1 working):**
Distribute 40 (36, 44) sts evenly: 10 (9, 11) sts per needle. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker at the start of the round.

**Using Magic Loop:**
Divide stitches in half: 20 (18, 22) sts on each needle.

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## CUFF

Cast on **40 (36, 44) sts** loosely. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist.

**Rnd 1**: *k2, p2*; rep from * to end.
Repeat this round until cuff measures **4 cm (1½")**, approx. 11 rounds.

✅ *Check: total sts ÷ 4 = 10 (9, 11) rib repeats. 40 ÷ 4 = 10 ✓*

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## LEG

Knit every round (stocking stitch) until leg measures **13 cm (5") from cast-on**, or your preferred length. End ready to begin a new round.

> 💡 *Try the sock on! The leg should reach mid-calf or wherever you like.*

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## HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked back and forth on **half** the stitches. The other half waits on hold for the instep.

**Set up**: Knit the first **20 (18, 22) sts** onto one needle — these are your **heel sts**. Place the remaining **20 (18, 22) instep sts** on a holder or second needle; ignore them for now.

Turn work. You will now work in rows on the heel sts only.

**Row 1 (WS)**: sl1 wyif, p to end.
**Row 2 (RS)**: *sl1 wyib, k1*; rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of **10 times** (20 rows worked).

✅ *Check: 20 rows ÷ 2 = 10 slipped edge stitches along each side. You'll pick these up later for the gusset.*

End having just worked Row 1 (a WS purl row). You should now be ready for a RS row.

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## HEEL TURN (Short Rows)

You'll now shape the cup of the heel using short rows.

**Row 1 (RS)**: k12 (11, 13), ssk, k1, turn. *(leaves sts unworked at end)*
**Row 2 (WS)**: sl1, p5 (5, 5), p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 3 (RS)**: sl1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk (closing the gap), k1, turn.
**Row 4 (WS)**: sl1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog (closing the gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked. End with a RS row.

✅ *Check: Medium ends with **12 sts** on the heel needle. (Small: 10 sts; Large: 14 sts.)*

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## GUSSET

Now you'll rejoin to work in the round and pick up stitches along the heel flap edges.

**Setup round (RS)**:
1. With the needle holding heel sts, **pick up and knit 10 sts** along the right edge of the heel flap (one in each slipped edge st).
2. Knit across the **20 (18, 22) instep sts**.
3. With a new needle, **pick up and knit 10 sts** along the left edge of the heel flap.
4. Knit across the first 6 heel sts. **This is now the new start of round** (centre of heel).

**Total sts on needles**: 52 (46, 56) sts.
✅ *Math check (Medium): 12 heel + 10 + 20 instep + 10 = 52 ✓*

Redistribute so that:
- **Needle 1 (sole, first half)**: 16 sts (6 heel + 10 picked up)
- **Needles 2 & 3 (instep)**: 20 sts
- **Needle 4 (sole, second half)**: 16 sts (10 picked up + 6 heel)

### Gusset Decreases

**Rnd 1 (decrease)**:
- Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Instep (Ndls 2/3): k all sts
- Needle 4: k1, ssk, k to end

**Rnd 2**: k all sts.

Repeat Rnds 1–2 until you are back to **40 (36, 44) sts** total.
✅ *Check (Medium): 52 − 40 = 12 sts decreased = 6 decrease rounds.*

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## FOOT

Knit every round in stocking stitch until foot measures **5 cm (2") less than desired finished foot length**, measured from the back of the heel.

> 📏 *Average finished foot lengths: Small 22 cm (8¾"), Medium 24 cm (9½"), Large 26 cm (10¼"). Try on as you go!*

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## TOE

You'll decrease 4 sts every other round to shape the toe.

**Rnd 1 (decrease)**:
- Needle 1 (sole half 1): k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Instep: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4 (sole half 2): k1, ssk, k to end

**Rnd 2**: k all sts.

Repeat Rnds 1–2 until **20 (16, 24) sts** remain, then work Rnd 1 only (no plain rnds) until **16 sts** remain on all sizes.

✅ *Check (Medium): 40 → 20 sts via alternate decreases (5 decrease rounds), then 20 → 16 via consecutive decreases (1 round). Final: 8 sts sole + 8 sts instep ✓*

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## FINISHING

### Kitchener Stitch (Grafting the Toe)

Cut yarn leaving a **40 cm (16") tail**. Arrange sts so 8 are on a front needle (instep) and 8 are on a back needle (sole), with needles parallel. Thread tail onto a tapestry needle.

**Setup**:
- Front needle: insert tapestry needle **purlwise**, pull through, leave st on.
- Back needle: insert **knitwise**, pull through, leave st on.

**Repeat**:
1. Front: **knitwise**, slip st off. Front: **purlwise**, leave on.
2. Back: **purlwise**, slip st off. Back: **knitwise**, leave on.

Continue until all sts have been worked off. Pull tail through to inside, weave in securely.

> 🎥 *If you're new to Kitchener, search "Kitchener stitch tutorial" — seeing it once makes it click!*

### Weave in Ends & Block

Weave in all yarn ends on the WS. Wet block by soaking in cool water with a little wool wash, gently squeezing out water, and laying flat to dry (or use sock blockers).

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## 🧦 Make the Second Sock!

Repeat the entire pattern to make a matching sock. **Congratulations — you've made a pair!**

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## Beginner Tips

- **Ladders between needles?** Give the first stitch on each new needle an extra tug.
- **Heel flap holes?** Pick up one extra stitch in the corner where the flap meets the instep and k2tog it on the next round.
- **Foot too long?** Frog back to before the toe and knit a few more rounds — easy fix with cuff-down construction.
- **Save your tension swatch** to use as a darning patch later!

Enjoy your warm, hand-knit socks. ❤️