purlJam

<pattern>

# COZY RASTA RIBBED BEANIE
*A beginner-friendly machine-knit hat in luxurious Malabrigo Rasta*

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## MACHINE SETUP

**Machine Configuration:**
- Mid-gauge flat-bed knitting machine (standard gauge may work but will be tight)
- Ribber attachment for 2x2 rib (or use main bed only for mock rib)
- Standard sinker plate
- Row counter installed and functional

**Bed Configuration:**
- Main bed: 44 needles centered (22 needles left of center 0, 22 needles right)
- Needle arrangement: L22-L1, R1-R22
- Ribber bed (if using): Every other needle in 2x2 rib configuration

**Required Tools & Accessories:**
- Ravel cord (smooth waste yarn, 60"/150cm length)
- Waste yarn (lightweight acrylic or cotton, contrasting color)
- 2-3 claw weights (heavy enough for bulky yarn)
- Cast-on comb (optional but helpful)
- Transfer tool (single or 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for finishing
- Stitch markers (optional)

**Initial Settings:**
- Tension dial (main bed): T8 for stockinette body
- Tension dial (ribber): T7 for ribbing (one number looser than main)
- Part button: H position
- Carriage levers: Set for stockinette (no holding, no part)
- Row counter: Reset to 000

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Malabrigo Rasta (100% Merino Wool; 90 yards/82m per 150g skein; super bulky weight)
- Yardage: 95-105 yards (90-96m)
- Amount: 1 skein plus small amount for pom-pom (optional)
- Sample shown in colorway "Frank Ochre"

**Notions:**
- Waste yarn (smooth cotton or acrylic, approximately 2 yards)
- Ravel cord (60"/150cm)
- Tapestry needle
- Optional: 3.5" pom-pom maker

**Sizing:**
- Finished circumference: 19.5" (49.5cm) unstretched
- Stretches to fit: 21-23" (53-58cm) head circumference
- Finished height: 8.5" (21.5cm) with brim folded

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## GAUGE AND TENSION

**Stockinette Gauge (Main Bed):**
- 2.25 sts per inch (0.9 sts per cm)
- 3 rows per inch (1.2 rows per cm)
- Measured at T8 tension after light steaming

**Ribbing Gauge (2x2 Rib):**
- Approximately 2.5 sts per inch (1 st per cm) relaxed
- Stretches to 1.5-2 sts per inch
- Measured at T7/T8 tension (ribber/main bed)

**Gauge Swatch (Recommended for Beginners):**
1. Cast on 20 needles using waste yarn method
2. Knit 30 rows at T8
3. Remove from machine and steam lightly
4. Measure 4" square; count stitches and rows
5. Adjust tension dial if needed: tighter gauge = lower number, looser = higher number

**Tension Notes for Malabrigo Rasta:**
- This is a lofty, thick single-ply yarn
- Start at T8; if stitches are tight or yarn breaks, increase to T9
- If fabric is too loose/holey, decrease to T7
- Consistent weight placement is crucial due to yarn thickness

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## RIBBED BRIM

**Cast-On (Waste Yarn Method with Ravel Cord):**

1. **Prepare the machine** (RC at 000, COL):
   - Bring needles L22 to R22 (44 needles total) forward to D position
   - Check that needles are evenly selected and centered

2. **Waste yarn cast-on**:
   - Thread waste yarn through carriage
   - Set tension to T10 (loose for waste yarn)
   - Cast on comb + ravel cord: Place ravel cord through cast-on comb eyes
   - Hold comb below needles with ravel cord behind latches
   - Knit 8-10 rows of waste yarn, COL to COR and back
   - Hang one claw weight on each side and one center (3 weights total)

3. **Insert ravel cord**:
   - COL: Lay ravel cord across all needles in hooks
   - Knit 1 row (COL→COR), ravel cord will knit in
   - RC now at 009 or 011 (depending on waste rows)

4. **Switch to main yarn**:
   - Remove waste yarn, thread Malabrigo Rasta
   - Set main bed tension to T8
   - **RC RESET TO 000**
   - Knit 1 row COL→COR at T8 (this is your foundation row)

**Ribbing Setup (Choose Method A or B):**

**METHOD A: With Ribber Attachment** (Recommended)

5. **Configure ribber for 2x2 rib**:
   - Set pitch lever to P (or H depending on machine model)
   - Bring ribber needles into work: Every other needle, starting with needle aligned under main bed L22
   - Pattern: 2 needles on main bed, 2 needles on ribber, repeat
   - 22 needles on main bed, 22 needles on ribber = 44 sts total in rib configuration

6. **Set ribber tension**: T7 (one number looser than main bed)

7. **Knit ribbing** (RC 000):
   - COL: Knit to COR (RC 001)
   - Continue knitting back and forth
   - Knit until **RC 018** (approximately 2.5"/6.5cm of ribbing)
   - Check weight distribution; add weight if edges curl
   - End COR at RC 018

8. **Transfer to main bed for stockinette body**:
   - Using transfer tool, move all ribber stitches to corresponding main bed needles
   - Pattern: Transfer ribber needle 1 to main bed needle 1, etc.
   - You will now have all 44 sts on main bed only
   - Push ribber needles back to A position
   - Set main bed tension to T8

**METHOD B: Without Ribber (Mock Rib)**

5. **Set up for mock rib on main bed**:
   - All 44 needles remain in work position on main bed (L22-R22)
   - This will create a slip-stitch mock rib texture

6. **Punchcard/manual selection**:
   - If your machine has electronic patterning: Select 2x2 slip stitch pattern
   - If manual: Bring needles to D position in 2-up, 2-down pattern (L22-L21 up, L20-L19 down, L18-L17 up, etc.)
   - Set carriage for slip stitch (consult your machine manual)

7. **Knit mock rib**:
   - Knit at T7-T8 until **RC 018**
   - End COR
   - Cancel slip stitch patterning; return to stockinette

**Continue from either method:**

9. **Check your work at RC 018**:
   - Ribbing should measure approximately 2.5" (6.5cm)
   - Fabric should be elastic and even
   - Adjust weights if needed

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## BODY ROWS

**Stockinette Body (RC 018, COR):**

1. **Confirm settings**:
   - Main bed tension: T8
   - All 44 needles in work (B or D position)
   - Carriage levers: Normal stockinette (no holding, no slip)
   - Weight positioned to hang evenly

2. **Knit straight**:
   - COR: Knit to COL (RC 019)
   - Continue knitting every row
   - Knit until **RC 054** (36 rows of stockinette body = 6"/15cm)
   - Check fabric periodically for even tension
   - Add or adjust weights as knitting grows

3. **Check measurements at RC 054**:
   - Total height from cast-on edge: approximately 8.5" (21.5cm)
   - Width: approximately 19.5" (49.5cm) flat
   - Fabric should be smooth stockinette, no holes or tight stitches
   - End COL at RC 054

**Troubleshooting:**
- If stitches are dropping: Check that needles aren't bent; increase weight
- If fabric is too tight: Increase tension to T9
- If fabric is too loose/holey: Decrease tension to T7
- If yarn breaks: Decrease tension or check for yarn tangles

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## CROWN SHAPING

**Crown Decrease Preparation (RC 054, COL):**

The crown shaping uses a simple gather method suitable for beginners. We will gradually reduce the needle count, then gather the remaining stitches.

**ROUND 1: First Decrease (RC 054-056)**

1. **Transfer every 3rd stitch** (COL, RC 054):
   - Using transfer tool, transfer every 3rd stitch to the adjacent needle
   - Pattern: Keep stitch on L22, L21; transfer L20→L21 (now 2 sts on L21); keep L19, L18; transfer L17→L18 (2 sts on L18)...
   - Continue across all needles
   - After transfers: approximately 30 needles remain in work
   - Push empty needles back to A position

2. **Knit 2 rows**:
   - COL→COR (RC 055)
   - COR→COL (RC 056)
   - Fabric will begin to curve inward

**ROUND 2: Second Decrease (RC 056-058)**

3. **Transfer every other stitch** (COL, RC 056):
   - Transfer every 2nd remaining stitch to adjacent needle
   - Pattern: Keep needle 1, transfer needle 2→needle 1; keep needle 3, transfer needle 4→needle 3...
   - After transfers: approximately 15 needles remain in work
   - Push empty needles to A position

4. **Knit 2 rows**:
   - COL→COR (RC 057)
   - COR→COL (RC 058)

**ROUND 3: Final Decrease (RC 058)**

5. **Transfer to 8 needles** (COL, RC 058):
   - Transfer stitches so only 8 needles remain in work (4 left of center, 4 right)
   - Combine as needed, spacing evenly
   - Push all other needles to A position

6. **Knit 1 row**:
   - COL→COR (RC 059)

**Final Gather:**

7. **Release from machine** (COR, RC 059):
   - Cut yarn leaving 24" (60cm) tail
   - Thread tail through tapestry needle
   - Carefully remove stitches from needles one at a time, threading tapestry needle through each live stitch
   - Work from right to left (toward carriage side)

8. **Gather crown**:
   - Once all stitches are on yarn tail, pull tight to close crown opening
   - Pass needle through gathered stitches 2-3 times to secure
   - Do not cut tail yet (needed for seaming)

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## FINISHING

**Remove from Machine:**

1. **Release from ravel cord** (if not already removed):
   - Locate the ravel cord at cast-on edge
   - Gently pull ravel cord to release the waste yarn rows
   - Remove all waste yarn, revealing clean cast-on edge

2. **Check the piece**:
   - Lay flat with right side (smooth stockinette) facing up
   - Measure dimensions (should be approximately 19.5" × 8.5")
   - Identify side edges that need seaming

**Seaming (Mattress Stitch Method):**

3. **Prepare for seaming**:
   - Fold hat in half lengthwise with right sides together
   - Align cast-on edges and crown edges
   - Thread tapestry needle with remaining crown tail OR new 24" yarn length

4. **Mattress stitch seam**:
   - Starting at crown, insert needle under horizontal bar between first and second stitch on one edge
   - Cross to opposite edge, insert under