purlJam

<pattern>

# POINTED RIBBED BEANIE WITH TASSEL

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner  
**Construction Method:** Bottom-up, flat knitting with side seam  
**Finished Circumference:** 20" (51 cm) – fits 21-23" (53-58 cm) head with stretch  
**Finished Height:** 8.5" (21.5 cm)

---

## MACHINE SETUP

**Machine Type:** Any flat-bed knitting machine (standard or mid-gauge)

**Bed Configuration:**
- Main bed: Use for stockinette body and crown
- Ribber (optional): Use for K1P1 ribbed brim
- *Alternative if no ribber*: Mock rib on main bed using slip stitch pattern

**Needle Arrangement:**
- Working width: 80 needles (40 left of center 0, 40 right of center 0)
- Main bed position: Needles L40 to R40 (even-numbered needles only if using ribber)
- Ribber position (if applicable): Odd-numbered needles alternating with main bed

**Tension Settings:**
- Main yarn tension dial: **6-7** (equivalent to size 8 hand-knitting needles)
- Ribber tension dial: **5-6** (slightly tighter for rib fabric)
- Adjust based on your machine and yarn; sample first

**Carriage Setup:**
- Part button: OFF (for stockinette)
- Slip setting: N/N (normal knitting)
- Carriage levers: Standard knitting position
- Starting position: **COL** (Carriage On Left)

**Row Counter:** Reset to RC000 at start of each major section (noted in instructions)

**Weight Recommendations:**
- Cast-on comb + 2 claw weights for brim
- Add third claw weight when transitioning to body
- Move weights up every 20-30 rows

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight yarn, approximately 150-180 yards (137-165 m)
- Sample shown uses smooth worsted wool or wool blend for best stitch definition

**Waste Yarn:**
- 2-3 yards (2-3 m) contrasting worsted or DK weight yarn for cast-on
- Should be same weight or slightly lighter than main yarn

**Notions:**
- Ravel cord or thin smooth string (1 yard/1 m)
- Cast-on comb (standard width)
- 3-4 claw weights (approximately 30-40g each)
- Transfer tool (single or 3-prong)
- Latch tool for finishing
- Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving ends
- Cardboard or circular form 2" × 4" for tassel making
- Stitch markers (optional, for tracking decreases)

**Tools Specific to Machine:**
- Standard carriage
- Ribber carriage (if using ribber)
- Decker comb (optional, for transfers)

---

## GAUGE AND TENSION

**Stockinette Stitch Gauge (main bed only):**
- 4 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm)
- 10 rows = 1" (2.5 cm)
- Tension dial: 6-7

**K1P1 Rib Gauge (with ribber or mock rib):**
- 3.75 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm)
- 9-10 rows = 1" (2.5 cm)
- Tension dial: Main bed 6-7, Ribber 5-6

**ALWAYS knit a gauge swatch before beginning.**  
Cast on 40 stitches, knit 40 rows, remove from machine, steam lightly, and measure the center 4" × 4" area.

**Gauge Math Verification:**
- Brim: 80 sts ÷ 3.75 sts/inch = 21.3" circumference ✓
- Body: 80 sts ÷ 4 sts/inch = 20" circumference ✓

---

## RIBBED BRIM

### Cast-On Preparation
1. Thread waste yarn through carriage.
2. Bring needles **L40 to R40** (80 needles total) to working position (D or E position).
3. **With carriage at COL**, lay ravel cord across needles in work.
4. Set tension dial to 8-9 (loose for waste yarn).
5. **RC000**. Knit 8-10 rows of waste yarn.

### E-Wrap Cast-On
6. Stop with **carriage at COL**, RC008-010.
7. Remove carriage. Change to main yarn.
8. Working from left to right, e-wrap each needle in work (wrap yarn clockwise around each needle, creating a loop).
9. Hang cast-on comb below the waste yarn knitting.
10. Attach 2 claw weights to cast-on comb.
11. Replace carriage at left.

### Rib Setup (with Ribber)
12. Set main bed tension dial to **7**, ribber tension dial to **6**.
13. Engage ribber carriage.
14. **If using ribber**: Transfer every other stitch to ribber needles, creating alternating stitch pattern:
    - Main bed: Even needles only (L40, L38, L36... R38, R40)
    - Ribber: Odd needles only (L39, L37, L35... R37, R39)
    - You should have 40 stitches on each bed, 80 stitches total
15. Lower ribber into working position.

### Alternative Mock Rib (without Ribber)
12. **If no ribber available**: Keep all 80 needles on main bed.
13. Set carriage for slip stitch (circular symbol setting or equivalent).
14. Use punchcard program or electronic pattern for 1×1 slip stitch rib, OR:
    - Manually push every other needle to holding position
    - Knit 1 row
    - Return held needles to working position, push alternate needles to holding position
    - Knit 1 row
    - Repeat for rib section

### Knit Brim
16. **RC000** (reset row counter).
17. Check that carriage is at **COL**.
18. Knit in K1P1 rib pattern (or mock rib).
19. Knit to **RC018** (approximately 2.5"/6.5 cm).
20. **Carriage ends at COR** (if odd number of rows, knit one more row).

**Technical Check:** Measure brim width. Should be approximately 2.5" tall. If too loose or too tight, adjust tension and reknit.

---

## BODY ROWS

### Transfer Rib to Main Bed (if using ribber)
21. **With carriage at COR**, RC018.
22. Using transfer tool, move all stitches from ribber to main bed:
    - Transfer stitches one at a time from ribber needles to adjacent main bed needles
    - Work from right to left
    - Each main bed needle will now hold 2 loops (1 from main bed, 1 from ribber)
    - All 80 stitches now on main bed, needles L40 to R40
23. Lower ribber out of working position or remove ribber carriage.
24. Add third claw weight to cast-on comb.

### Stockinette Body
25. **RC000** (reset row counter).
26. Set main bed tension dial to **6-7** for stockinette.
27. Set carriage for normal knitting: Part button OFF, slip setting N/N.
28. **Carriage at COR**. Knit across to left.
29. Knit every row in stockinette stitch.
30. Move weights up approximately every 20-30 rows to maintain even tension.
31. Knit to **RC055** (approximately 5.5"/14 cm).
32. **Carriage ends at COL**.

**Technical Check:** Measure body height from top of rib to needles. Should be approximately 5.5". Total height to this point: approximately 8".

**Stitch Count Verification:** 80 stitches in work on main bed ✓

---

## CROWN SHAPING

The crown shaping creates the pointed top. We will decrease gradually by transferring stitches to adjacent needles, then knitting across, working from the edges toward the center.

### Decrease Section 1
33. **RC055**, carriage at **COL**.
34. Using transfer tool, transfer stitches at each edge:
    - Transfer stitch from L40 to L39
    - Transfer stitch from R40 to R39
    - Bring empty needles L40 and R40 to non-working position (A position)
    - **78 stitches remain** (L39 to R39)
35. Knit 4 rows (**RC059**).
36. **Carriage at COL**. Transfer stitches:
    - Transfer L39 to L38
    - Transfer R39 to R38
    - Move L39 and R39 to non-working position
    - **76 stitches remain** (L38 to R38)
37. Knit 4 rows (**RC063**).

### Decrease Section 2 (Faster Decreases)
38. **Carriage at COL**. Repeat this decrease sequence every 3 rows:
    - Transfer outermost stitch on each side to adjacent needle
    - Move empty needles to non-working position
    - Knit 3 rows

39. Continue decreasing as follows:

| RC  | Action                              | Sts Remaining | Needles in Work |
|-----|-------------------------------------|---------------|-----------------|
| 063 | Start position                      | 76            | L38 to R38      |
| 066 | Decrease (transfer L38→L37, R38→R37)| 74            | L37 to R37      |
| 069 | Decrease (transfer L37→L36, R37→R36)| 72            | L36 to R36      |
| 072 | Decrease (transfer L36→L35, R36→R35)| 70            | L35 to R35      |
| 075 | Decrease (transfer L35→L34, R35→R34)| 68            | L34 to R34      |

### Decrease Section 3 (Rapid Decreases)
40. **RC075**, **68 stitches remain**. Begin faster decreases every 2 rows:

| RC  | Action                              | Sts Remaining | Needles in Work |
|-----|-------------------------------------|---------------|-----------------|
| 077 | Decrease (transfer L34→L33, R34→R33)| 66            | L33 to R33      |
| 079 | Decrease (transfer L33→L32, R33→R32)| 64            | L32 to R32      |
| 081 | Decrease (transfer L32→L31, R32→R31)| 62            | L31 to R31      |
| 083 | Decrease (transfer L31→L30, R31→R30)| 60            | L30 to R30      |
| 085 | Decrease (transfer L30→L29, R30→R29)| 58            | L29 to R29      |
| 087 | Decrease (transfer L29→L28, R29→R28)| 56            | L28 to R28      |
| 089 | Decrease (transfer L28→L27, R28→R27)| 54            | L27 to R27      |
| 091 | Decrease (transfer L27→L26, R27→R26)| 52            | L26 to R26      |

### Final Decreases
41. **RC091**, **52 stitches remain**. Continue decreasing every row:

| RC  | Action                              | Sts Remaining | Needles in Work |
|-----|-------------------------------------|---------------|-----------------|
| 092 | Decrease                            | 50            | L25 to R25      |
| 093 | Decrease                            | 48            | L24 to R24      |
| 094 | Decrease                            | 46            | L23 to R23      |
| 095 | Decrease                            | 44            | L22 to R22      |
| 096 | Decrease                            | 42            | L21 to R21      |
| 097 | Decrease                            | 40