Drop-Waist Ruffle Dress

Skill level: Intermediate Terminology: UK

Interpretation note: "Two strands at the top" is worked as two narrow i-cord shoulder straps on a straight-across bodice.

Sizes

S (M, L, XL)

• To fit bust: 81 (91, 102, 112) cm / 32 (36, 40, 44) in
• To fit hip: 89 (99, 109, 119) cm / 35 (39, 43, 47) in

Finished measurements (5 cm negative ease):

• Bust: 76 (86, 96, 106) cm / 30 (34, 37.75, 41.75) in
• Waist: 60 (70, 80, 90) cm / 23.5 (27.5, 31.5, 35.5) in
• Hip/skirt: 84 (94, 104, 114) cm / 33 (37, 41, 45) in
• Length, top edge to hem: 85 (86, 87, 88) cm, plus straps
• Ruffle depth: 10 cm (4 in)

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted-weight yarn with some stretch (wool or wool/nylon recommended), approx. 1150 (1350, 1550, 1750) m
• Needles:
  • 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle, 80 cm
  • 4 mm (US 6) circular needle, 80 cm
  • 5 mm (US 8) circular needle, 100 cm, for the ruffle
  • 4 mm double-pointed needles (DPNs), for the i-cord
• Notions: 3 stitch markers (1 in a contrasting colour), tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)

20 sts and 28 rounds = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

This dress is close-fitting, so check your tension carefully before you start.

Abbreviations

• k – knit
• p – purl
• sm – slip marker
• pm – place marker
• ssk – slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together (1 st decreased)
• k2tog – knit 2 together (1 st decreased)
• M1L / M1R – make 1 left-leaning / right-leaning (1 st increased)
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Instructions

Skirt

1. With the 4 mm circular needle, cast on 168 (188, 208, 228) sts.
2. Place the contrasting marker for the beginning of the round. This marks the left side of the dress. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist.
3. Rib: Work k2, p2 rib for 3 cm.
4. Change to the 4.5 mm needle.
5. Set side marker: k84 (94, 104, 114), pm for the right side, knit to the end. You now have 84 (94, 104, 114) sts each for the front and back.
6. Knit every round until the skirt measures 45 cm from the cast-on edge.
7. Drop-waist ridge: Purl 1 round. This ridge is where the ruffle will be picked up later. (168, 188, 208, 228 sts)

Bodice

Waist shaping (decreases):

• Decrease round: *k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. (4 sts decreased)
• Rounds 1–3: Knit.
• Round 4: Work the decrease round.
• Repeat these 4 rounds 12 times in total (48 rounds).
• Stitch count: 168−48 = 120 (188−48 = 140, 208−48 = 160, 228−48 = 180) sts ✓
• Knit 6 rounds straight.

Bust shaping (increases):

• Increase round: *k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before the marker, M1R, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. (4 sts increased)
• Rounds 1–4: Knit.
• Round 5: Work the increase round.
• Repeat these 5 rounds 8 times in total (40 rounds).
• Stitch count: 120+32 = 152 (140+32 = 172, 160+32 = 192, 180+32 = 212) sts ✓
• Knit straight until the bodice measures 37 (38, 39, 40) cm from the purl ridge.

Top band:

1. Change to the 4 mm needle.
2. Work k1, p1 rib for 3 cm.
3. Cast off loosely in rib.

The bodice now measures 40 (41, 42, 43) cm from the ridge.

Ruffle

1. Hold the dress upside down, with the hem towards you.
2. Using the 5 mm needle, start at the left side (the beginning of the round). Pick up and knit 1 st in each purl bump of the drop-waist ridge. (168, 188, 208, 228 sts)
3. Place a marker and join to work in the round.
4. Round 1: Knit.
5. Round 2: *k1, M1L; repeat from * to the end. Stitch count: 168×2 = 336 (188×2 = 376, 208×2 = 416, 228×2 = 456) sts ✓
6. Knit every round until the ruffle measures 9 cm from the pick-up round.
7. Garter edge: Purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round.
8. Cast off very loosely knitwise. (336, 376, 416, 456 sts cast off)

The ruffle hangs downward over the skirt, 10 cm deep.

Straps (make 2)

1. With the 4 mm DPNs, cast on 4 sts.
2. Work i-cord: k4, slide the sts to the other end of the needle without turning, pull the yarn snug across the back. Repeat from * until the strap measures 35 (36, 37, 38) cm.
3. Cast off, leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing. (4 sts)

Finishing

1. Lay the dress flat with the beginning-of-round marker at the left side. The front is the first 76 (86, 96, 106) sts of the bust round.
2. Front attachment: Sew one end of each strap to the inside of the top rib, 2 cm below the cast-off edge. Place them 9 (10, 11, 12) cm to either side of the centre front, so they sit 18 (20, 22, 24) cm apart.
3. Back attachment: Cross each strap straight over the shoulder without twisting. Sew the other end to the inside of the back, 8 (9, 10, 11) cm to either side of the centre back, 2 cm below the edge.
4. Try the dress on before securing the straps fully. To shorten a strap, unpick the back end and re-sew it; do not cut the strap.
5. Weave in all ends.
6. Wet block the dress to the measurements. Lay the ruffle flat in gentle waves to dry.