purlJam

<pattern>
# Elusive Chartreuse Merino Wool Pullover

*A 1960s-Inspired Men's Funnel Neck Brioche Pullover*

## OVERVIEW

This vintage-modern pullover features a sophisticated funnel neck, a Simple Brioche yoke, a bodice knitted with Textured Brioche stitch, and a timeless silhouette. Worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan construction, this cozy merino wool sweater combines classic 1960s styling with contemporary knitting techniques.

**Difficulty Level:** Advanced

**Requires:** Knowledge of working in the round, brioche knitting, raglan shaping, and managing multiple stitch patterns.

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

*Custom Size (with 4" positive ease)*

- **Bust circumference:** 55" (140 cm)
- **Total length from shoulder:** 28" (71 cm)
- **Sleeve length from underarm:** 18" (46 cm)
- **Funnel neck height:** 5" (13 cm)

*This pattern is written for a custom size based on the measurements provided. Finished garment measurements include ease for a comfortable fit.*

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Fingering weight (1)
- **Fiber:** 100% Merino Wool (or merino blend for durability)
- **Yardage:** Approximately 2,200–2,400 yards (2,010–2,195 m)
  - *Note: Brioche fabric uses approximately 25-30% more yarn than stockinette due to its double-sided construction.*
- **Recommended:** Any high-quality fingering weight merino with good stitch definition for brioche work
- **Color:** Elusive Chartreuse (or your choice)

### Needles
- US 3 (3.25 mm) – 16" (40 cm) circular needle for funnel neck
- US 4 (3.5 mm) – 16" (40 cm) circular needle for yoke
- US 4 (3.5 mm) – 32" (80 cm) circular needle for body
- US 4 (3.5 mm) – DPNs or long circular needles for magic loop (sleeves)
- *Or size needed to obtain gauge*

### Notions
- Stitch markers: 8 total (4 in one color for raglan lines, 4 in another for section divisions if desired)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Blocking wires or pins (optional but recommended for brioche)

## GAUGE

**GAUGE IS CRITICAL**

**In Simple Brioche (relaxed after blocking):**
24 stitches and 32 rounds = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm)
**= 6 stitches per inch and 8 rounds per inch**

**In Textured Brioche (after blocking and relaxation):**
24 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm)
**= 6 stitches per inch and 7.5 rounds per inch**

### Brioche Fabric Characteristics

Brioche fabric possesses stretch and dimensional qualities. To ensure accurate gauge, it is essential to knit a proper swatch, wash, and block it as you would the final garment. Measure the swatch after it has fully dried. If your gauge deviates by even 0.5 stitches per inch, your finished sweater may differ by 8 inches in circumference.

### Gauge Swatch Instructions

1. Using US 4 (3.5 mm) needles, cast on 40 stitches using long-tail cast on.
2. Work Setup Round: *K1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.
3. Work Simple Brioche pattern (Rounds 1–2) for 6 inches (15 cm).
4. Bind off loosely in pattern.
5. Soak the swatch in lukewarm water for 20 minutes.
6. Block the swatch flat, allowing the brioche to relax naturally without overstretching.
7. Allow the swatch to dry completely (24+ hours).
8. Measure the swatch in the center, away from the edges. You should have 6 stitches per inch and 8 rounds per inch.

**Adjust needle size if necessary:**
- If you have too many stitches per inch, increase the needle size.
- If you have too few stitches per inch, decrease the needle size.

## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction Overview

This pullover is constructed seamlessly from the top down:

1. Begin with a funnel neck worked in 1×1 ribbing on smaller needles.
2. Transition to larger needles and work the yoke in Simple Brioche with raglan increases.
3. Separate sleeves and body at the underarm.
4. Work the body in Textured Brioche pattern.
5. Work sleeves in the round using Simple Brioche with decreases.
6. Finish all edges with 1×1 ribbing.

### Brioche Knitting Notes

- **Brioche is stretchy:** Your gauge swatch must be blocked and fully relaxed before measuring.
- **Slower progress:** Brioche creates a double-sided fabric and uses more yarn, so it works up more slowly than stockinette.
- **Loose tension:** Maintain loose, even tension. Brioche requires looser knitting than stockinette.
- **Plush texture:** The signature texture is achieved through yarn overs and slipped stitches worked together.
- **Stitch counting:** In brioche, each slipped stitch with its yarn over counts as one stitch unit. Count carefully.

### Raglan Increases in Brioche

Raglan increases are worked using lifted increases (m1L and m1R) placed before and after raglan markers. These increases maintain the brioche pattern flow better than other increase methods. The lifted strand is worked as a regular knit stitch, then incorporated into the brioche pattern on subsequent rounds.

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **yo** = yarn over
- **sl1yo** = slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front, bring yarn over needle and to back (creates a yarn over and slipped stitch together)
- **brk** = brioche knit: knit the slipped stitch together with its yarn over from the previous round
- **brp** = brioche purl: purl the slipped stitch together with its yarn over from the previous round
- **k2tog** = knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, return to left needle, knit together through back loop (left-leaning decrease)
- **m1L** = make one left: lift the bar between the stitches from front to back, knit through the back loop
- **m1R** = make one right: lift the bar between the stitches from back to front, knit through the front loop
- **pm** = place marker
- **sm** = slip marker
- **rm** = remove marker
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)

## STITCH PATTERNS

### 1×1 Ribbing (in the round)

**All rounds:** *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

*Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches.*

### Simple Brioche (in the round)

*Used for yoke and sleeves*

**Setup Round:** *K1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.

**Round 1:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.

**Round 2:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1–2 for pattern.

*Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches.*

### Textured Brioche (in the round)

*Used for body front and back*

**Setup Round:** *K1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.

**Round 1:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.

**Round 2:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end.

**Round 3:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end.

**Round 4:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

*Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches.*

*The alternating repeat creates a subtle textured variation from Simple Brioche, with a slightly denser fabric and enhanced vertical texture.*

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### FUNNEL NECK

Using US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle, cast on **120 sts** using long-tail cast on (or your preferred stretchy cast on).

*Math check: 20" neck circumference × 6 sts/inch = 120 sts ✓*

Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

Work in **1×1 Ribbing** (k1, p1) for **5 inches** (13 cm).