purlJam

# Everyday Garter Tote

A sturdy, beginner-friendly knitted tote bag worked entirely in garter stitch. The body is knit in one long flat piece that folds to form the front, bottom, and back, then the sides are seamed. Two simple straps are knit separately and sewn on. No shaping, no fancy stitches — just knit rows and simple seaming.

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## Finished Measurements
- **Width:** 12 in (30.5 cm)
- **Height:** 11 in (28 cm)
- **Depth (gusset via folded bottom):** approx. 3 in (7.5 cm)
- **Strap length:** 22 in (56 cm) each

*One size.*

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## Materials
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Medium / #4), approx. **400 yds (366 m)** total.
  - Suggested: a sturdy cotton or cotton-blend worsted for structure.
- **Needles:** US 7 / 4.5 mm straight or circular needles.
  - *Tip:* This is one size smaller than typical for worsted, to create a dense, hard-wearing fabric that won't sag or show gaps.
- **Notions:**
  - Tapestry needle (for seaming and weaving in ends)
  - Scissors
  - Optional: fabric lining and sewing supplies for a finished interior

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## Gauge
**18 sts and 36 rows = 4 in (10 cm)** in garter stitch (knit every row), on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

That works out to **4.5 sts per inch** and **9 rows per inch**.

*Gauge matters here for sturdiness. If your fabric is loose and floppy, go down a needle size.*

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## Abbreviations (US)
- **k** — knit
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **RS** — right side
- **WS** — wrong side
- **rep** — repeat

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## Pattern Notes
- The entire bag body is worked in **garter stitch** (knit every row). Both sides look the same, so there is no strict "right" or "wrong" side.
- The body is knit as **one long rectangle**. When folded in thirds, the lower third becomes the front, the middle third becomes the bottom, and the upper third becomes the back. (In practice we simply fold the rectangle in half and let the fold form the base; the "bottom depth" comes from seaming — see Finishing.)
- Keep your tension even at the row edges — neat edges make seaming much easier.
- The bag is unlined; add a fabric lining if you want to carry small items securely.

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## Instructions

### Body (make 1)

**Cast on 54 sts.**

Knit every row (garter stitch) until the piece measures **25 in (63.5 cm)** from the cast-on edge.

- Row count check: 25 in × 9 rows/in = **225 rows total**.
- Because garter stitch pairs into ridges (2 rows = 1 ridge), 225 rows is fine; knit until you *reach the measured length* rather than counting every row — measure with a tape as you go.

**Bind off** all 54 sts loosely.

You now have one rectangle approximately **12 in wide × 25 in long**.

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### Straps (make 2)

**Cast on 4 sts.**

Knit every row (garter stitch) until the strap measures **22 in (56 cm)** from the cast-on edge.

- Row count check: 22 in × 9 rows/in = **198 rows** per strap.

**Bind off** all 4 sts.

*Tip:* For extra-strong straps, you may knit them 6 sts wide instead of 4 sts (adds about 40 extra yds total). This is optional.

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## Finishing

### 1. Block the pieces
Wet or steam block the body rectangle and both straps flat to even out the stitches. Let dry completely. Garter stitch relaxes when blocked, so measure after blocking.

### 2. Fold and seam the body
1. Lay the rectangle flat. **Fold it in half** widthwise so the two short (bind-off and cast-on) edges meet at the top. The fold at the bottom becomes the base of the bag. You now have a folded piece about **12 in wide × 12.5 in tall**.
2. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, **seam the two side edges** from the bottom fold up to the top opening. Use a mattress stitch or whip stitch — whatever feels comfortable as a beginner.

### 3. Create the flat bottom (boxed base)
To give the bag a 3 in flat bottom so it stands and holds shape:
1. At one bottom corner, flatten the corner into a triangle so the side seam lines up with the bottom fold.
2. Measure **1.5 in (3.8 cm)** in from the point and sew straight across the triangle. Repeat on the other corner.
3. This creates a boxed base approximately **3 in (7.5 cm)** deep. (You may tack the flaps down inside for tidiness.)

### 4. Attach the straps
1. On the front of the bag, position one strap so its ends sit about **3 in (7.5 cm)** in from each side edge, roughly **1.5 in (3.8 cm)** down from the top opening.
2. Sew each strap end securely to the inside of the bag using a tapestry needle. **Backstitch or go over the join several times** — straps carry all the weight, so reinforce well.
3. Repeat with the second strap on the back of the bag, mirroring the placement.

### 5. Weave in ends
Weave in all remaining yarn tails on the inside of the bag with a tapestry needle. Trim.

### 6. Optional lining
Cut fabric to fit the interior (allow a seam allowance), stitch into a pouch, and hand-sew it to the inside top edge of the bag for a clean, sturdy finish.

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## Quick Reference
| Piece | Cast On | Length | Bind Off |
|-------|---------|--------|----------|
| Body  | 54 sts  | 25 in (225 rows) | 54 sts |
| Strap (×2) | 4 sts | 22 in (198 rows) | 4 sts |

**Yardage check:** Body ≈ 54 sts × 225 rows in worsted ≈ 320 yds; two 4-st straps ≈ 60 yds; total ≈ 380 yds → 400 yds allows a comfortable margin. ✓

Enjoy your finished tote!