purlJam

<pattern>

# **Irish Lace Romantic Overlay Motifs for Bustier**

A collection of dimensional Irish lace motifs featuring blooming roses, delicate rosebuds, and graceful leaves designed to overlay and embellish a bustier top. These advanced lace elements are worked individually and arranged to create a romantic, feminine aesthetic. The worsted weight yarn creates bold, statement motifs with beautiful texture and dimension.

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## **MATERIALS**

**Yarn:** Worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition
- Main motifs: approximately 200-250 yards
- Suggested: cotton, cotton-blend, or bamboo for drape and blocking retention
- Sample shown in ivory/cream for romantic aesthetic

**Optional:** Use 2-3 complementary colors for multi-tonal effect (150 yards MC, 50 yards each CC1 and CC2)

**Needles:** 
- US 6 (4.0 mm) double-pointed needles or circular needle for small circumference
- US 7 (4.5 mm) for slightly looser lace work (optional)

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Blocking wires or pins
- Sewing needle and thread (matching color) for attachment
- Rustproof pins for blocking

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## **GAUGE**

20 sts × 28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, **blocked**

**Lace Gauge:** 18 sts × 24 rows = 4" in lace pattern, **blocked**

*Gauge is critical for motif sizing. Block swatch aggressively to match finished motif dimensions.*

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## **FINISHED DIMENSIONS**

- **Large Rose Motif:** approximately 3.5-4" diameter
- **Small Rosebud:** approximately 1.5" diameter  
- **Large Leaf:** approximately 3" long × 1.5" wide
- **Small Leaf:** approximately 2" long × 1" wide
- **Filler Motif:** approximately 1.5-2" diameter

**Suggested Quantity for Bustier Overlay:**
- 1 Large Rose (center front or side)
- 2-3 Small Rosebuds
- 4-6 Leaves (various sizes)
- 3-5 Filler Motifs (to connect and fill spaces)

---

## **ABBREVIATIONS**

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **yo** = yarn over
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **sk2p** = slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (centered double decrease)
- **kfb** = knit into front and back of stitch (1 st increase)
- **MB** = make bobble: (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in same st, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p2tog, p1, p2tog, turn, sk2p
- **p3tog** = purl 3 stitches together
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **rep** = repeat
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)

---

## **PATTERN NOTES**

1. **Construction:** Each motif is worked separately and flat (rows) or in the round, depending on the design. All motifs are blocked individually before assembly.

2. **Irish Lace Technique:** These motifs feature dimensional texture through bobbles, layered petals, and strategic yarn overs. The key to success is aggressive blocking to open up the lace and create definition.

3. **Blocking is Essential:** Irish lace must be wet blocked and pinned to shape. Use rustproof pins and block each motif to the specified dimensions before attaching to bustier.

4. **Color Variations:** 
   - **Monochromatic:** Work all motifs in one color for classic elegance
   - **Multi-tonal:** Work roses in one color, leaves in another for realistic effect
   - **Gradient:** Use subtly different shades for dimensional effect

5. **Arrangement:** Motifs are typically arranged asymmetrically. See Layout Guide section for suggestions.

6. **Stitch Count Verification:** Each row/round includes stitch count in parentheses. Verify counts before proceeding.

7. **Reading Pattern:** Work instructions between * * the number of times indicated. Instructions in parentheses () describe technique or give stitch count.

---

## **MOTIF INSTRUCTIONS**

### **MOTIF 1: LARGE BLOOMING ROSE**

This dimensional rose features a bobbled center with layered petals radiating outward.

**Cast on:** 8 sts
Divide onto 3 DPNs or use magic loop. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Rnd 1:** *Kfb* 8 times. (16 sts)

**Rnd 2 and all even rnds through 10:** Knit.

**Rnd 3:** *K1, yo* 16 times. (32 sts)

**Rnd 5:** *K2, yo* 16 times. (48 sts)

**Rnd 7:** *K3, yo* 16 times. (64 sts)

**Rnd 9:** *K4, yo* 16 times. (80 sts)

**Rnd 11:** *K5, yo* 16 times. (96 sts)

**Rnd 12:** Knit.

**Begin Petal Formation (work now transitions to rows, creating layered petals):**

**Petal 1:**
- **Row 1 (RS):** K12, turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
- **Row 2 (WS):** P12.
- **Row 3:** K1, yo, k10, yo, k1. (14 sts)
- **Row 4:** P14.
- **Row 5:** K1, yo, k1, MB, k8, MB, k1, yo, k1. (16 sts)
- **Row 6:** P16.
- **Row 7:** K1, yo, k14, yo, k1. (18 sts)
- **Row 8:** P18.
- **Row 9:** Ssk, k14, k2tog. (16 sts)
- **Row 10:** P2tog, p12, p2tog. (14 sts)
- **Row 11:** Ssk, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
- **Row 12:** P2tog, p8, p2tog. (10 sts)
- **Row 13:** Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
- **Row 14:** P2tog, p4, p2tog. (6 sts)
- **Row 15:** Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
- **Row 16:** P2tog twice. (2 sts)
- **Row 17:** K2tog, break yarn and pull through remaining st.

**Petals 2-8:**
Rejoin yarn to remaining 84 sts. Work next 12 sts following Petal 1 instructions. Repeat for each of the remaining 7 petals. (Each petal uses 12 sts from the base round; 12 × 8 = 96 sts ✓)

**Finishing:** 
Weave in all petal ends. Block rose flat, pinning each petal tip outward to create blooming effect. Center may cup slightly—this is intentional for dimension.

---

### **MOTIF 2: SMALL ROSEBUD**

A compact, dimensional bud shape. Make 2-3.

**Cast on:** 6 sts
Divide onto DPNs. Join to work in the round.

**Rnd 1:** *Kfb* 6 times. (12 sts)

**Rnd 2:** Knit.

**Rnd 3:** *K1, yo* 12 times. (24 sts)

**Rnd 4:** Knit.

**Rnd 5:** *K2, yo* 12 times. (36 sts)

**Rnd 6:** Knit.

**Begin Petals (work in rows):**

**Petal 1:**
- **Row 1 (RS):** K6, turn.
- **Row 2:** P6.
- **Row 3:** K1, yo, k4, yo, k1. (8 sts)
- **Row 4:** P8.
- **Row 5:** K1, MB, k4, MB, k1. (8 sts)
- **Row 6:** P8.
- **Row 7:** Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
- **Row 8:** P2tog, p2, p2tog. (4 sts)
- **Row 9:** Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
- **Row 10:** P2tog, break yarn and pull through.

**Petals 2-6:**
Rejoin yarn to remaining 30 sts. Work next 6 sts following Petal 1 instructions. Repeat for remaining 5 petals. (6 × 6 = 36 sts ✓)

**Finishing:** 
Block lightly. Petals should overlap slightly for rosebud effect.

---

### **MOTIF 3: LARGE LEAF**

An elegant pointed leaf with center vein detail. Make 2-3.

**Cast on:** 5 sts

**Row 1 (RS):** K2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2. (7 sts)

**Row 2 and all WS rows:** Purl.

**Row 3:** K3, yo, k1, yo, k3. (9 sts)

**Row 5:** K4, yo, k1, yo, k4. (11 sts)

**Row 7:** K5, yo, k1, yo, k5. (13 sts)

**Row 9:** K6, yo, k1, yo, k6. (15 sts)

**Row 11:** K7, yo, k1, yo, k7. (17 sts)

**Row 13:** K8, yo, k1, yo, k8. (19 sts)

**Row 15:** K9, yo, k1, yo, k9. (21 sts)

**Row 17:** K10, yo, k1, yo, k10. (23 sts)

**Row 18:** Purl.

**Begin Decreases:**

**Row 19:** K9, ssk, k1, k2tog, k9. (21 sts)

**Row 20:** Purl.

**Row 21:** K8, ssk, k1, k2tog, k8. (19 sts)

**Row 22:** Purl.

**Row 23:** K7, ssk, k1, k2tog, k7. (17 sts)

**Row 24:** Purl.

**Row 25:** K6, ssk, k1, k2tog, k6. (15 sts)

**Row 26:** Purl.

**Row 27:** K5, ssk, k1, k2tog, k5. (13 sts)

**Row 28:** Purl.

**Row 29:** K4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k4. (11 sts)

**Row 30:** Purl.

**Row 31:** K3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3. (9 sts)

**Row 32:** Purl.

**Row 33:** K2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2. (7 sts)

**Row 34:** Purl.

**Row 35:** K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. (5 sts)

**Row 36:** Purl.

**Row 37:** Ssk, k1, k2tog. (3 sts)

**Row 38:** P3tog. (1 st)

Break yarn and pull through remaining st.

**Finishing:** 
Block leaf with point stretched upward and sides pinned to emphasize width at center.

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### **MOTIF 4: SMALL LEAF**

A delicate accent leaf. Make 3-4.

**Cast on:** 5 sts

**Row 1 (RS):** K2, yo, k1, yo, k2. (7 sts)

**Row 2 and all WS rows:** Purl.

**Row 3:** K3, yo, k1, yo, k3. (9 sts)

**Row 5:** K4, yo, k1, yo, k4. (11 sts)

**Row 7:** K5, yo, k1, yo, k5. (13 sts)

**Row 9:** K6, yo, k1, yo, k6. (15 sts)

**Row 10:** Purl.

**Begin Decreases:**

**Row 11:** K5, ssk, k1, k2tog, k5. (13 sts)

**Row 12:** Purl.

**Row 13:** K4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k4. (11 sts)

**Row 14:** Purl.

**Row 15:** K3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3. (9 sts)

**Row 16:** Purl.

**Row 17:** K2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2. (7 sts)

**Row 18:** Purl.

**Row 19:** K1, ssk, k1,