purlJam

1. **Design Strategy**: - User requests: straight needles, bottom-up, adult ladies' jumper, set-in sleeves (no raglan), crew neck, small size focus, intermediate difficulty - Yarn weight: Worsted - Template: Fitted Set-In Pullover - Terminology: UK English, metric first, "tension" not "gauge", UK stitch names - Present all 5 sizes but highlight Small - Fitted silhouette: minimal positive ease (1–2") - Crew neck: standard rounded neckline with ribbed neckband - Stockinette body with k2p2 ribbing at hem, cuffs, and neckband - Worked flat in pieces: back first, then front, then two sleeves; seamed 2. **Construction Plan**: - **Tension/Gauge**: Worsted weight standard = 20 sts × 28 rows = 10 cm (4") in stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles (some sources use 4.0–5.0 mm; I'll use 4.5 mm as typical worsted) - Actually standard worsted is often cited as 18–20 sts per 10 cm. I'll use 20 sts / 28 rows per 10 cm on 4.5 mm needles as a solid intermediate standard. - **Sizes**: XS(S, M, L, XL) → I'll follow the template: S(34–36"), M(38–40"), L(42–44"), XL(46–48"), 2XL(50–52") - **Bust measurements** with ~2" (5 cm) positive ease for fitted: - S: 34–36" actual → 36" (91.5 cm) finished bust - M: 38–40" actual → 40" (101.5 cm) finished bust - L: 42–44" actual → 44" (112 cm) finished bust - XL: 46–48" actual → 48" (122 cm) finished bust - 2XL: 50–52" actual → 52" (132 cm) finished bust **Tension: 20 sts / 28 rows = 10 cm** So 1 st = 0.5 cm, 1 row = 0.357 cm (approx) **BACK PIECE calculations (half of finished bust = half circumference)**: Half bust: - S: 91.5 / 2 = 45.75 cm → 45.75 × 2 sts/cm = 91.5 → round to 92 sts - M: 101.5 / 2 = 50.75 cm → 101.5 sts → round to 102 sts - L: 112 / 2 = 56 cm → 112 sts - XL: 122 / 2 = 61 cm → 122 sts - 2XL: 132 / 2 = 66 cm → 132 sts Wait — those are FULL back width stitches (half the total circumference). Let me redo: Finished bust circumference = 36" = 91.5 cm Back width = 91.5/2 = 45.75 cm Sts for back = 45.75 cm × 2 sts/cm = 91.5 → 92 sts Check k2p2 rib divisibility: must be divisible by 4. 92 ÷ 4 = 23 ✓ - S: 92 sts (back width = 46 cm / 18.1") - M: 102 sts → 102/4 = 25.5 ✗ → adjust to 100 or 104. Use 100 sts? 100/2sts/cm = 50 cm, finished bust = 100 cm (39.4") — a bit small for M target of 101.5 cm. Use 104 sts → 52 cm back width → 104 cm finished bust (40.9") ✓ for M(38–40" + ease). Let me recalculate: 104 sts / 2 = 52 cm × 2 = 104 cm finished = 40.9" — good for M. - L: 112 sts → 112/4 = 28 ✓. back width = 56 cm, finished bust = 112 cm (44.1") ✓ - XL: 122 sts → 122/4 = 30.5 ✗ → 120 sts → 60 cm × 2 = 120 cm (47.2") ✓ for XL(46–48") - 2XL: 132 sts → 132/4 = 33 ✓. 66 cm × 2 = 132 cm (52") ✓ Let me reconsider S more carefully with exact ease: - S body actual = 34-36" = 86.4–91.4 cm. With 2" ease, finished = 88–93 cm. - 92 sts = 46 cm back = 92 cm total = 36.2" ✓ (1.2" ease on a 35" bust — fine for fitted) Final stitch counts (cast on for back, and same for front): - S: 92 sts - M: 104 sts - L: 112 sts - XL: 120 sts - 2XL: 132 sts **Body length to underarm**: Standard ladies' length ~40 cm (15.75") from cast-on to underarm, including 5 cm (2") of ribbing. So body in stocking stitch = 35 cm (13.75") after ribbing. Rows to underarm (after ribbing): 35 cm × 2.8 rows/cm = 98 rows ≈ 98 rows (work even) Ribbing: 5 cm × 2.8 = 14 rows → work 14 rows of k2p2 rib **Armhole shaping**: For set-in sleeve, typical armhole depth for ladies S = 18–19 cm (7–7.5") - S: 18 cm - M: 19 cm - L: 20 cm - XL: 21 cm - 2XL: 22 cm Armhole shaping removes stitches for the indentation. Standard set-in: - Initial bind-off (each side): 3 sts (S), 4 sts (M), 5 sts (L), 6 sts (XL), 7 sts (2XL) - Then decrease 1 st each side every RS row: 3 times (S), 4 times (M), 5 times (L), 6 times (XL), 7 times (2XL) Total sts removed each side: - S: 3 + 3 = 6 sts each side → total removed = 12 sts - M: 4 + 4 = 8 sts each side → total removed = 16 sts - L: 5 + 5 = 10 sts each side → total removed = 20 sts - XL: 6 + 6 = 12 sts each side → total removed = 24 sts - 2XL: 7 + 7 = 14 sts each side → total removed = 28 sts Sts remaining after armhole shaping (back): - S: 92 – 12 = 80 sts - M: 104 – 16 = 88 sts - L: 112 – 20 = 92 sts - XL: 120 – 24 = 96 sts - 2XL: 132 – 28 = 104 sts **Shoulder shaping**: Back neck width: ~15–16 cm for crew neck - S: 15 cm → 15 × 2 = 30 sts for back neck - M: 16 cm → 32 sts - L: 17 cm → 34 sts - XL: 18 cm → 36 sts - 2XL: 19 cm → 38 sts Shoulder sts each side: - S: (80 – 30) / 2 = 25 sts each shoulder - M: (88 – 32) / 2 = 28 sts each shoulder - L: (92 – 34) / 2 = 29 sts each shoulder - XL: (96 – 36) / 2 = 30 sts each shoulder - 2XL: (104 – 38) / 2 = 33 sts each shoulder Shoulder bind-offs (3 groups, gradual): - S: 25 sts → 9, 8, 8 (bind off rows) - M: 28 sts → 10, 9, 9 - L: 29 sts → 10, 10, 9 - XL: 30 sts → 10, 10, 10 - 2XL: 33 sts → 11, 11, 11 Back neck sts: Place on holder. Back neck sts with seam allowance... actually the back neck stays as live sts or bind off for crew neck. I'll have them bind off and then pick up for neckband. Actually let me reconsider the back neck. For a crew neck back, we typically don't shape the back neck separately — we work straight to shoulders then bind off the centre neck stitches. Some patterns do a very slight back neck shaping but for simplicity at intermediate level, let's keep back neck straight: - Work to shoulder height, bind off shoulder sts in groups, bind off centre neck sts. **Front neck shaping**: Front neck shaping begins ~6–7 cm (2.5") before shoulder. Front neck depth: approximately 7 cm (2.75") from start of neck shaping to shoulder. Front neck width: slightly wider than back neck (visual crew neck) - S: 18 sts for front neck (9 cm) — wait, that's narrower than back neck of 30 sts. Hmm, actually for crew neck: Front neck opening is wider than the back. Let me reconsider. Actually for a standard crew neck: - Back neck width ≈ 15–16 cm (held sts) - Front neck width ≈ 14–16 cm at the actual opening - But front is deeper (has vertical depth of ~6–7 cm), so total sts bound off in front neck shaping include the centre + side decreases Let me recalculate more carefully: For S (80 sts after armhole): - Shoulders: 25 sts each side - Back neck: 30 sts (centre) - Front: same 80 sts after armhole shaping - Front neck centre bind-off: I want the total front neck opening (after shaping) to be similar width to back. Let's say front neck opening = 26 sts for S. - Centre front bind-off: let's do 12 sts centre, then dec 1 st each side 7 times = 12 + 14 = 26 sts removed from front neck total. But that means 80 - 26 = 54 sts remaining = 27 each shoulder... but shoulders should be 25 each. Contradiction. Let me approach this differently and properly: For S: - After armhole shaping: 80 sts - Shoulder sts each side: 25 (to match back) - Front neck sts total: 80 – (25 × 2) = 30 sts - Centre cast-off: say 14 sts, then decrease 1 st each side 8 times = 14 + 16 = 30 ✓ But 8 decrease rows × (1 row = 0.357 cm) × (every other row) = 8 RS rows = 16 rows = 5.7 cm of neck depth. Good. Actually let me redo: if we decrease every RS row for 8 rows, that's 8 decrease rows, covering 16 total rows = 16/2.8 = 5.7 cm. Neck depth = 5.7 cm plus a few straight rows = roughly 6–7 cm. ✓ For M (88 sts after armhole): - Shoulders: 28 each - Front neck: 88 – 56 = 32 sts - Centre cast-off: 16 sts, dec 8 times each side = 16 + 16 = 32 ✓ For L (92 sts): - Shoulders: 29 each - Front neck: 92 – 58 = 34 sts - Centre: 16, dec 9 each side = 16 + 18 = 34 ✓ For XL (96 sts): - Shoulders: 30 each - Front neck: 96 – 60 = 36 sts - Centre: 18, dec 9 each side = 18 + 18 = 36 ✓ For 2XL (104 sts): - Shoulders: 33 each - Front neck: 104 – 66 = 38 sts - Centre: 18, dec 10 each side = 18 + 20 = 38 ✓ **SLEEVE calculations**: Sleeve length (cuff to underarm): standard ladies' = ~44 cm (17.3") including 5 cm cuff ribbing So sleeve length in stocking stitch after cuff: 39 cm (15.4") Cuff width (after ribbing, wrist area): - S: 18 cm → 36 sts (must be ÷4: 36 ✓) - M: 19 cm → 38 sts → round to 40 ✓ - L: 20 cm → 40 sts ✓ - XL: 21 cm → 42 sts ✓ - 2XL: 22 cm → 44 sts ✓ Sleeve width at underarm (upper arm circumference + ease): Ladies upper arm: - S: 28–30 cm → 30 cm → 60 sts (÷2 = fine; need even for shaping) - M: 31–33 cm → 33 cm → 66 sts - L: 35–36 cm → 36 cm → 72 sts - XL: 38–40 cm → 40 cm → 80 sts - 2XL: 42–44 cm → 44 cm → 88 sts Sleeve increases: Starting from cuff to underarm: - S: 36 sts → 60 sts = 24 sts increase = 12 increases each side - M: 40 sts → 66 sts = 26 sts → 13 each side - L: 40 sts → 72 sts = 32 sts → 16 each side - XL: 42 sts → 80 sts = 38 sts → 19 each side - 2XL: 44 sts → 88 sts = 44 sts → 22 each side Rows available for increases (39 cm × 2.8 rows/cm = 109.2 ≈ 109 rows): Frequency of increases: - S: 109 rows / 12 increases = every 9.1 rows → every 9th row (RS rows: every 9 rows) Check: 12 × 9 = 108 rows ≈ 109 ✓ (work last row even) Actually for neat shaping, increases should be on RS rows (odd rows). So "increase every 10th row" or "every RS every X rows". Let me think in terms of "every X rows": S: every 9 rows × 12 = 108 rows. Then work remaining 1 row even. Fine. - M: 109/13 = 8.4 → every 8 rows. 13 × 8 = 104, then 5 rows even. - L: 109/16 = 6.8 → every 7 rows. 16 × 7 = 112 > 109. Every 6 rows: 16 × 6 = 96 rows, then 13 rows even. Or mix: 13 increases every 7 rows, 3 every 6 rows = 91 + 18 = 109... getting complex. Let me simplify: for intermediate pattern, I'll use "every X rows" consistently: - S: inc every 9 rows, 12 times (108 rows), then work 1 row even = 109 rows total ✓ - M: inc every 8 rows, 13 times (104 rows), then work 5 rows even ✓ - L: inc every 7 rows, 16 times (112 rows) — 112 > 109. Hmm. Actually 39 cm × 2.8 = 109.2. I'll round to 110 rows. 16 × 7 = 112... slightly over. Let me try every 6 rows: 16 × 6 = 96, 14 rows even. Or just say every 7 rows 10 times then every 8 rows 6 times. This is getting complex. Let me use a simpler approach: just say "every 7th row" for L which gives 112 rows / 2.8 = 40 cm. Since 39 cm is approximate, 40 cm is fine. - XL: 110/19 = 5.8 → every 6 rows. 19 × 6 = 114 rows / 2.8 = 40.7 cm. Fine. - 2XL: 110/22 = 5 → every 5 rows. 22 × 5 = 110 rows / 2.8 = 39.3 cm. ✓ **Sleeve cap shaping** (set-in sleeve cap): Sleeve cap height = armhole depth (approx) - S: 18 cm - M: 19 cm - L: 20 cm - XL: 21 cm - 2XL: 22 cm Standard set-in cap shaping: 1. Initial bind-offs each side: same as armhole initial bind-offs - S: 3 sts each side × 2 = 6 sts (same as body) - M: 4 sts - L: 5 sts - XL: 6 sts - 2XL: 7 sts 2. Decrease rows: decrease 1 st each end every RS row for most of the cap 3. Final decreases + bind-off at top Sleeve cap height rows: 18 cm × 2.8 = 50.4 ≈ 50 rows (25 RS rows) Let me work out sleeve cap for S in detail: - Start: 60 sts - Initial BO each side: 3 sts → 60 – 6 = 54 sts - Dec every RS row: we need to remove enough sts to leave ~20-22 sts for top of cap 54 – 22 = 32 sts to remove = 16 decreases each side Each dec RS row = 2 rows (1 RS + 1 WS) 16 dec rows = 32 rows Plus initial BO rows: 2 rows Plus final bind-off rows: a few rows to finish with rapid dec Actually let me use a more standard approach for sleeve cap: Phase 1: Initial BO - 2 rows Phase 2: Dec 1 each end every RS row for (cap height ÷ 3) area Phase 3: Dec 1 each end every row (faster) for middle Phase 4: Final rapid BO For simplicity in an intermediate pattern, I'll use the classic 3-phase approach: For S (60 sts, cap height ~50 rows): - Row 1-2: BO 3 sts beg of each row → 54 sts (2 rows used) - Rows 3–34: Dec 1 each end every RS row for 16 RS rows = 32 rows → 54 – 32 = 22 sts (34 rows used total) - Rows 35–38: Dec 1 each end every row 2 times = 4 rows → 22 – 8 = 14 sts (38 rows) - Final: BO remaining 14 sts Total: ~40 rows = 14.3 cm cap height. Hmm that's less than 18 cm. Let me try differently. For set-in sleeves, the cap height is typically 12–16 cm (not as tall as armhole depth). The cap should equal the armhole curve measurement, not the straight armhole depth. Let me use 13–15 cm for ladies S. Let me recalculate: cap height ~ 13 cm = 36 rows For S (60 sts): - BO 3 each side: 2 rows → 54 sts - Dec every RS row for 14 RS rows (28 rows) → 54 – 28 = 26 sts (30 rows total) - Dec each end every row 3 times (6 rows) → 26 – 12 = 14 sts (36 rows total) - BO 14 sts Total rows: 36 = 36/2.8 = 12.9 cm ✓ For M (66 sts), cap height ~14 cm = 39 rows: - BO 4 each side: 2 rows → 58 sts - Dec every RS row for 15 RS rows (30 rows) → 58 – 30 = 28 sts (32 rows) - Dec each end every row 3 times → 28 – 12 = 16 sts (38 rows) - BO 16 sts Total: 38 rows = 13.6 cm ≈ 14 cm ✓ For L (72 sts), cap height ~15 cm = 42 rows: - BO 5 each side: 2 rows → 62 sts - Dec every RS row for 16 RS rows (32 rows) → 62 – 32 = 30 sts (34 rows) - Dec each end every row 4 times → 30 – 16 = 14 sts (42 rows) - BO 14 sts... wait: 30 – 8(4×2) = 22 sts. Hmm, let me redo. Actually "dec each end every row" means dec both ends on RS AND WS: RS dec: k2tog, work to last 2, ssk — removes 2 sts WS dec: p2tog, work to last 2, ssp — removes 2 sts So each row (RS or WS) removes 2 sts. 4 rows (2 RS + 2 WS) × 2 sts/row = 8 sts removed 30 – 8 = 22 sts → BO 22 sts Total: 38 rows = 38/2.8 = 13.6 cm. Need more rows. Let me add more even rows at start: For L (72 sts): - BO 5 each side: 2 rows → 62 sts - Work 2 rows even - Dec every RS row for 16 RS rows (32 rows) → 62 – 32 = 30 sts (36 rows total) - Dec each end every row 4 times (8 rows) → 30 – 16 = 14 sts (44 rows) - BO 14 sts Total: 44 rows = 44/2.8 = 15.7 cm ≈ 15 cm ✓ For XL (80 sts), cap height ~16 cm = 45 rows: - BO 6 each side: 2 rows → 68 sts - Work 2 rows even - Dec every RS row for 17 RS rows (34 rows) → 68 – 34 = 34 sts (38 rows) - Dec each end every row 4 times (8 rows) → 34 – 16 = 18 sts (46 rows) - BO 18 sts Total: 46 rows = 46/2.8 = 16.4 cm ✓ For 2XL (88 sts), cap height ~17 cm = 48 rows: - BO 7 each side: 2 rows → 74 sts - Work 2 rows even - Dec every RS row for 18 RS rows (36 rows) → 74 – 36 = 38 sts (40 rows) - Dec each end every row 4 times (8 rows) → 38 – 16 = 22 sts (48 rows) - BO 22 sts Total: 48 rows = 48/2.8 = 17.1 cm ✓ Good. Now let me think about whether I need the BO remainders to work for seaming. The standard is that BO sts of sleeve cap ≈ 5–8 cm. Let me check: S: 14 sts = 7 cm ✓ M: 16 sts = 8 cm ✓ L: 14 sts = 7 cm ✓ (wait, I had 30 – 16 = 14) Actually I made an error above for L. Let me recheck: L: After "dec each end every row 4 times": "Dec each end every row" = every row (both RS and WS). 4 rows = 4 × 2 = 8 sts total. 30 – 8 = 22. Not 14. Let me redo: For L, 62 sts after initial BO: - Dec every RS row for 16 RS rows = 32 total rows, removing 32 sts (2 per RS row) → Wait: dec 1 each end every RS row removes 2 sts per RS row. 16 RS rows × 2 = 32 sts removed. 62 – 32 = 30 sts. 34 rows total (including 2 initial BO rows). - Work 2 rows even (rows 35-36) - Dec each end every row 4 times = 4 rows, 4 × 2 = 8 sts → 30 – 8 = 22 sts (40 rows total) - BO 22 sts Hmm, 22 sts = 11 cm for top of cap. That seems wide. Let me adjust. I think I need to do more decreases in the final rapid phase. Let me try: - Dec each end every row 6 times (12 rows, 24 sts removed) → 30 – 12 = ...wait, 6 rows × 2 sts/row = 12 sts? No: dec each end EVERY row means BOTH ends EVERY row. Each row removes 2 sts (1 from each end). 6 rows × 2 = 12 sts removed. 30 – 12 = 18 sts, BO 18 sts. Total: 34 (after dec RS rows) + 2 even + 6 rapid = 42 rows = 15 cm ✓ Let me redo more carefully. I think I'm overcomplicating. Let me just write clean sleeve cap instructions for each size. Actually, let me reconsider the structure. For a neat set-in cap, the total stitches decreased in the cap should roughly equal: sleeve top stitches – (shoulder seam width × 2 × 2) – top BO sts. The classic formula: cap height = armhole depth ≈ but since it curves, cap height is about 70-80% of armhole depth measured straight. Let me just simplify and create clean, workable instructions: Sleeve cap for all sizes – I'll write them cleanly in the pattern itself. **Neckband**: Pick up around neck opening after seaming: Total neck sts to pick up ≈ (front neck sts + back neck sts + side neck rows) For S: - Back neck: 30 sts - Front centre neck: 14 sts (bound off) - Each side neck shaping: ~8 decreases × ~1.5 sts/row pickup = ~12 sts each side - Total approx: 30 + 14 + 12 + 12 = 68 sts → round to 68 ÷ 4 = 17 ✓ (divisible by 4) I'll work neckband for 2 cm (approx 5-6 rounds) in k2p2 rib then bind off loosely. Actually, for the neckband I'll specify approximate pickup count and note it must be divisible by 4. Let me now create a comprehensive summary table and write the pattern. **Final dimensions summary**: Finished measurements (cm): - Bust: S=92, M=104, L=112, XL=120, 2XL=132 - Length to underarm: 40 cm all sizes (can adjust) - Armhole depth: S=18, M=19, L=20, XL=21, 2XL=22 cm - Back neck width: S=15, M=16, L=17, XL=18, 2XL=19 cm - Shoulder width: S=12.5, M=14, L=14.5, XL=15, 2XL=16.5 cm - Total body length: S=58, M=59, L=60, XL=61, 2XL=62 cm (underarm + armhole depth) - Sleeve length: 44 cm (all sizes — can be adjusted) - Sleeve cuff width: S=18, M=20, L=20, XL=21, 2XL=22 cm - Sleeve upper arm: S=30, M=33, L=36, XL=40, 2XL=44 cm Now let me also think about total yarn requirement for worsted weight: S: approximately 900-1000m of worsted weight yarn (standard ladies S is about 800-1000m) I'll estimate: S=950m, M=1100m, L=1200m, XL=1350m, 2XL=1500m At typical worsted weight (100g = 200m): S: 5 × 100g balls, M: 6 balls, L: 6-7 balls, XL: 7 balls, 2XL: 8 balls Let me say S: 4-5 balls to be safe. I'll give meterage. 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Check all stitch counts divisible by 4 for ribbing ✓ - Check front/back have same stitch counts ✓ - Check shoulder + neck add up to total armhole sts ✓ - Check sleeve increases are reasonable ✓ - Check sleeve cap decreases are workable ✓ - Check no impossible shaping ✓ - UK terminology throughout ✓ - Metric measurements first ✓ 4. **Final Calculations**: All verified above. Let me now do one more pass on the key numbers for S (the highlighted size): S VERIFICATION: - Cast on: 92 sts ÷ 4 = 23 ✓ (k2p2 rib works) - Ribbing: 14 rows (5 cm) - Body in st st: 98 rows (35 cm) - Total to underarm: 112 rows (40 cm) ✓ - Armhole BO: 3 sts each side = 2 rows, then dec 1 each end every RS row 3 times (6 rows) = 8 rows for shaping - Sts after armhole: 92 – 12 = 80 sts ✓ - Armhole in rows: 18 cm × 2.8 = ~50 rows after shaping - Shoulder sts: 25 each side ✓ - Back neck: 30 sts ✓ - 25 + 30 + 25 = 80 ✓ - Shoulder BO: 9, 8, 8 → 9+8+8=25 ✓ Front S: - After armhole shaping: 80 sts ✓ - Front neck starts 7 cm before shoulder - 7 cm × 2.8 = ~20 rows before shoulder - Centre neck BO: 14 sts → 80 – 14 = 66 sts, split 33 each side - Wait: shoulder = 25 each side. 33 – 25 = 8 sts to decrease each side. - Dec 1 st each side every RS row 8 times = 16 rows - 16 rows = 5.7 cm ≈ 6 cm neck depth ✓ - After decs: 33 – 8 = 25 sts each shoulder ✓ ← this matches back shoulder of 25 ✓ - But 33 + 33 + 14 = 80 ✓ Sleeve S: - Cast on: 36 sts ÷ 4 = 9 ✓ - Increase to 60 sts: 24 sts total = 12 increases each side - Inc every 9 rows, 12 times = 108 rows (38.6 cm) - Then work 1 row even = 109 rows total = 38.9 cm of sleeve after cuff ≈ 39 cm ✓ - Plus 14 rows cuff ribbing (5 cm) = 123 rows total (43.9 cm ≈ 44 cm) ✓ Sleeve cap S: - Start: 60 sts - BO 3 each side (2 rows): 60 – 6 = 54 sts - Dec 1 each end every RS row 14 times (28 rows): 54 – 28 = 26 sts [30 rows total] - Dec each end every row 3 times (6 rows): 26 – 6 = 20 sts... Wait, dec each end every row: each row removes 2 sts (both ends). 3 rows × 2 = 6 sts. But I need to alternate RS/WS. Let me be more precise: "decrease 1 st each end of every row" = RS row: k2tog at end, ssk or similar at start... actually: RS: dec at each end: 2 sts removed WS: dec at each end: 2 sts removed So per pair of rows: 4 sts removed Per single row: 2 sts removed 3 rows × 2 sts/row = 6 sts. But should be even rows for symmetry. Let me do 4 rows × 2 = 8 sts. Dec 1 each end every RS row 14 times: 54 – 28 = 26 sts (28 rows used) Dec 1 each end every row 4 times: 26 – 8 = 18 sts (4 more rows = 32 rows total) BO remaining 18 sts. But wait: I wrote "dec every RS row 14 times" which is 14 RS rows × 2 = 28 sts, over 28 rows (14 RS + 14 WS plain). Then 4 more rows every row = 4 × 2 = 8 sts. Total rows: 2 (BO) + 28 (dec RS) + 4 (dec every row) = 34 rows = 34/2.8 = 12.1 cm Top of cap: 18 sts = 9 cm. A bit wide. Let me adjust. Try: dec every RS row 12 times (24 rows): 54 – 24 = 30 sts Dec every row 5 times (10 rows): 30 – 10 = 20 sts... Hmm, "dec every row 5 times" → 5 rows × 2 = 10 sts removed. 30 – 10 = 20. Still wide. What if I do rapid decreases earlier: - BO 3 each side: 60 – 6 = 54 sts - Dec 1 each end every RS row 10 times (20 rows): 54 – 20 = 34 sts - Dec 1 each end every row 6 times (12 rows): 34 – 12 = 22 sts... still. Wait I keep making the same mistake. "Dec 1 each end every row 6 times" = 6 rows, each row removes 2 sts = 12 sts removed. 34 – 12 = 22. BO 22 sts = 11 cm. Hmm. For a fitted set-in sleeve, the top of the cap should be quite narrow: typically 4–6 sts. The issue is that I have a wide sleeve top. Let me look at this more carefully. For set-in sleeve construction, the sleeve cap is shaped to fit the armhole opening. The key relationship is: - Total sts cast off/decreased in sleeve cap should equal sleeve at underarm sts minus the top remaining sts - The top remaining sts need to be narrow enough: 4-10 sts is typical for a neat top So for S: 60 sts at underarm, want to end with ~6 sts: Total to remove: 60 – 6 = 54 sts (27 each side) Phase 1: BO 3 each side = 6 sts (2 rows) Phase 2: Dec every RS row × N times (N each end) = 2N sts removed Phase 3: Dec every row × M times (M each end, or just rapid BO) = various Phase 4: BO remaining ~6 sts We need: 6 (phase 1) + 2N + phase 3 + 6 = 60 So phases 2+3 remove: 60 – 12 = 48 sts Cap height: ~13 cm = 36 rows (must work within this) Phase 1: 2 rows Phase 2: N RS rows = 2N rows, removes 2N sts Phase 3: fast decrease section Let's try: Phase 2: 14 RS rows (28 total rows): removes 28 sts → 54 – 28 = 26 sts after phase 2 [30 rows total] Phase 3: BO 5 sts beg next 2 rows, BO 5 sts beg next 2 rows: removes 20 sts → 26 – 20 = 6 sts [34 rows] BO 6 sts Total: 34 rows = 12.1 cm. Top: 6 sts = 3 cm. Narrow enough ✓ Check: 6 + 28 + 20 + 6 = 60 ✓ But this gives a very peaked cap (narrow top, lots of BO in phase 3). A more typical approach: Phase 3: "BO 4 sts beg next 2 rows" (removes 8), "BO 3 sts beg next 2 rows" (removes 6) = removes 14 sts. 26 – 14 = 12. Then BO 12 sts. 12 sts = 6 cm. Wider but over a very small remaining area. Actually, for set-in sleeves, having 6-12 sts remaining at top is fine. Let me look at it differently: these remaining sts will be sewn into the shoulder seam area. The key is that cap height ≈ armhole depth and the cap eases into the armhole smoothly. I'll use a practical approach that's standard in UK commercial patterns: S (60 sts at underarm): 1. BO 3 sts beg next 2 rows [54 sts] 2. Dec 1 st each end every RS row until 14 sts remain How many decreases: (54 – 14) / 2 = 40/2 = 20 decreases = 20 RS rows = 40 rows Plus 2 initial rows = 42 rows = 15 cm. That's better! 3. BO remaining 14 sts. 14 sts = 7 cm cap top ✓ Total: 42 rows = 42/2.8 = 15 cm ≈ good for S armhole depth of 18 cm (the cap height should be about 80% of armhole: 0.8 × 18 = 14.4 cm ≈ 15 cm ✓) Let me do all sizes: S (60 sts → BO 3 each × 2, dec to 14): - BO 3 × 2 = 6 → 54 - Dec to 14: (54-14)/2 = 20 RS rows = 40 rows - Total: 42 rows = 15 cm ✓ - Cap top: 14 sts M (66 sts → BO 4 each × 2, dec to 16): - BO 4 × 2 = 8 → 58 - Dec to 16: (58-16)/2 = 21 RS rows = 42 rows - Total: 44 rows = 15.7 cm ✓ (for M armhole 19 cm: 0.8×19=15.2 cm ✓) - Cap top: 16 sts L (72 sts → BO 5 each × 2, dec to 16): - BO 5 × 2 = 10 → 62 - Dec to 16: (62-16)/2 = 23 RS rows = 46 rows - Total: 48 rows = 17.1 cm (for L armhole 20 cm: 0.8×20=16 cm. A bit high but acceptable) - Cap top: 16 sts Actually let me try dec to 18 for L: - Dec to 18: (62-18)/2 = 22 RS rows = 44 rows - Total: 46 rows = 16.4 cm ≈ 16 cm ✓ XL (80 sts → BO 6 each × 2, dec to 18): - BO 6 × 2 = 12 → 68 - Dec to 18: (68-18)/2 = 25 RS rows = 50 rows - Total: 52 rows = 18.6 cm (for XL armhole 21 cm: 0.8×21=16.8 cm) Hmm, over. Let me use dec to 22: - Dec to 22: (68-22)/2 = 23 RS rows = 46 rows - Total: 48 rows = 17.1 cm ≈ 17 cm ✓ 2XL (88 sts → BO 7 each × 2, dec to 22): - BO 7 × 2 = 14 → 74 - Dec to 22: (74-22)/2 = 26 RS rows = 52 rows - Total: 54 rows = 19.3 cm ≈ 19 cm ✓ (for 2XL armhole 22 cm: 0.8×22=17.6 cm, close enough) Summary of sleeve caps: - S: BO 3 each × 2, dec 1 each end every RS row until 14 sts rem, BO 14 sts. Cap: 42 rows (15 cm) - M: BO 4 each × 2, dec every RS row until 16 sts rem, BO 16 sts. Cap: 44 rows (15.7 cm) - L: BO 5 each × 2, dec every RS row until 18 sts rem, BO 18 sts. Cap: 46 rows (16.4 cm) - XL: BO 6 each × 2, dec every RS row until 22 sts rem, BO 22 sts. Cap: 48 rows (17.1 cm) - 2XL: BO 7 each × 2, dec every RS row until 22 sts rem, BO 22 sts. Cap: 54 rows (19.3 cm) Now let me compile all key numbers into a neat table for the pattern. **Complete Stitch Count Summary**: | | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | |---|---|---|---|---|---| | Cast on (back/front) | 92 | 104 | 112 | 120 | 132 | | After armhole BO | 80 | 88 | 92 | 96 | 104 | | Each shoulder | 25 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 33 | | Back neck sts | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 | | Front neck centre BO | 14 | 16 | 16 | 18 | 18 | | Front neck side decs | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 | | Check: 2×shoulder + neck | 80✓ | 88✓ | 92✓ | 96✓ | 104✓ | | Sleeve cast on | 36 | 40 | 40 | 42 | 44 | | Sleeve increases | 12×2 | 13×2 | 16×2 | 19×2 | 22×2 | | Sleeve at underarm | 60 | 66 | 72 | 80 | 88 | | Armhole BO each side | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | | Armhole dec each side | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | Let me verify front neck for each size: S: Centre BO 14 + side decs 8×2 = 14+16=30 sts. Shoulder remaining: 25. 25+25+30=80 ✓ M: Centre BO 16 + side decs 8×2 = 16+16=32 sts. Shoulder remaining: 28. 28+28+32=88 ✓ L: Centre BO 16 + side decs 9×2 = 16+18=34 sts. Shoulder remaining: 29. 29+29+34=92 ✓ XL: Centre BO 18 + side decs 9×2 = 18+18=36 sts. Shoulder remaining: 30. 30+30+36=96 ✓ 2XL: Centre BO 18 + side decs 10×2 = 18+20=38 sts. Shoulder remaining: 33. 33+33+38=104 ✓ All verified! ✓ Now for the shoulder bind-offs (3 gradual groups): S (25 sts each shoulder): 9, 8, 8 → 9+8+8=25 ✓ M (28 sts): 10, 9, 9 → 28 ✓ L (29 sts): 10, 10, 9 → 29 ✓ XL (30 sts): 10, 10, 10 → 30 ✓ 2XL (33 sts): 11, 11, 11 → 33 ✓ **Neckband pickup sts**: After assembly, pick up around neck: S: Back neck 30 + front centre 14 + side pickup ~12 each side ≈ 68 sts. 68÷4=17 ✓ M: Back 32 + front 16 + ~14 each = 76. 76÷4=19 ✓ L: Back 34 + front 16 + ~15 each = 80. 80÷4=20 ✓ XL: Back 36 + front 18 + ~15 each = 84. 84÷4=21 ✓ 2XL: Back 38 + front 18 + ~16 each = 88. 88÷4=22 ✓ These are approximate — I'll note in the pattern to pick up enough sts divisible by 4. **Finished measurements (all in cm)**: - Finished bust: S=92, M=104, L=112, XL=120, 2XL=132 - Finished bust (inches): S=36¼, M=41, L=44, XL=47¼, 2XL=52 - Body length (hem to underarm): 40 cm / 15¾" - Total length (hem to shoulder): ~58 cm / 22¾" for S (40 + 18) - Sleeve length (cuff to underarm): 44 cm / 17¼" all sizes - Upper sleeve width: S=30, M=33, L=36, XL=40, 2XL=44 cm Now I also need to clarify: the front neck shaping starts approximately 7 cm (20 rows) before shoulder. The armhole depth is 18 cm (S). From top of armhole shaping, we work 18 cm to shoulder. Neck shaping starts 7 cm before shoulder = 11 cm into armhole section. Rows in armhole before neck shaping: 11 cm × 2.8 = 30.8 ≈ 30 rows But we need to account for the armhole shaping rows (8 rows). So: After all armhole shaping: we have 80 sts on needle. Armhole shaping takes: 2 rows (BO) + 6 rows (3 RS decs × 2) = 8 rows Total armhole rows: 18 cm × 2.8 = ~50 rows Rows working even after shaping: 50 – 8 = 42 rows (about 15 cm) Neck starts 7 cm = 20 rows before shoulder So work even for 42 – 20 = 22 rows, then begin neck shaping Neck shaping: 8 dec rows (16 rows) + 4 even rows = 20 rows ✓ Wait: front neck side decs for S = 8 decs. If decreasing every RS row, that's 8 RS rows = 16 rows. Plus a few even rows before binding off shoulder. So neck takes about 18–20 rows. At 20 rows, that's 7.1 cm before shoulder. ✓ I think I have enough information to write the complete pattern now. Let me compose it. One more thing: needle size. For worsted weight tension of 20 sts / 28 rows per 10 cm, the needle would be 4.0–4.5 mm. I'll use 4.5 mm for main fabric and 4.0 mm for ribbing (slightly smaller for tighter rib). Yarn quantity estimation: Let me estimate by calculating approximate stitch area: Back: 92 sts × 112 rows (to shoulder) = ~10,300 stitch-rows Front: similar ≈ 10,300 Two sleeves: ~60 sts avg × 123 rows × 2 = ~14,760 stitch-rows Total ≈ 35,360 stitch-rows At worsted weight, approximately 4 stitch-rows per cm of yarn: 35,360 / 4 = 8,840 cm = 88.4 m... that's way too low. Better approach: worsted weight ladies S pullover typically requires 800–1200m. I'll specify: S: 900–1000m (5 × 100g balls at 200m/ball), and scale up. S: ~950m, M: ~1100m, L: ~1250m, XL: ~1400m, 2XL: ~1550m Using 100g balls of approximately 200m: S needs 5 balls, M needs 6, L needs 7, XL needs 7-8, 2XL needs 8. I'll recommend: S(5), M(6), L(7), XL(7), 2XL(8) balls of 100g/200m worsted weight. Now I'll write the full pattern. One more thought on format: The pattern should show all 5 sizes with S highlighted (since user asked for small size ladies). I'll use the convention of listing all sizes as: S (M, L, XL, 2XL) with Small first and noted as the "featured" size. For instructions: write as S(M, L, XL, 2XL) format. Bold S where helpful. Let me now draft the complete pattern.

**PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS** **1. Completeness** ✅ Tension/gauge swatch section — included ✅ Materials list (yarn, needles, notions) — included ✅ Finished measurements table — included ✅ Abbreviations — included ✅ Back piece (full instructions) — included ✅ Front piece with neck shaping — included ✅ Sleeve × 2 (increases + cap shaping) — included ✅ Making up / assembly — included ✅ Neckband (picked up and worked in the round) — included ✅ Notes/tips — included **2. Consistency** ✅ Tension: 20 sts × 28 rows = 10 cm on 4.5 mm needle (worsted standard) ✅ Back cast-on (S=92): 92 ÷ 4 = 23 → divisible by 4 for k2p2 rib ✓ ✅ After armhole shaping S: 92 − 12 = 80 sts ✓ ✅ Shoulder + neck = 25 + 30 + 25 = 80 ✓ ✅ Front neck: centre BO 14 + 8 decs × 2 = 30 sts; shoulder rem = 25 ✓ ✅ Shoulder bind-offs S: 9+8+8=25 ✓ M: 10+9+9=28 ✓ L: 10+10+9=29 ✓ XL: 10+10+10=30 ✓ 2XL: 11+11+11=33 ✓ ✅ Sleeve cast-on S=36 (÷4=9 ✓), M=40 (÷4=10 ✓), L=40 (÷4=10 ✓), XL=42 (÷4=10.5 ✗) ⚠️ XL sleeve cast-on: 42 ÷ 4 = 10.5 — NOT divisible by 4! → Adjust to 44 sts for XL. Revised: XL sleeve cast-on = 44 sts (22 cm wrist) Increases: 80 − 44 = 36 sts = 18 each side. 18 increases over 109 rows = every 6 rows ✓ Updated sleeve cast-ons: S=36, M=40, L=40, XL=44, 2XL=44 ✓ all divisible by 4 ✅ 2XL sleeve cast-on: 44 ÷ 4 = 11 ✓ ✅ M cast-on: 104 ÷ 4 = 26 ✓ ✅ L cast-on: 112 ÷ 4 = 28 ✓ ✅ XL cast-on: 120 ÷ 4 = 30 ✓ ✅ 2XL cast-on: 132 ÷ 4 = 33 ✓ Re-verify XL sleeve: 44 sts → 80 sts = 36 sts increase = 18 each side, every 6 rows × 18 = 108 rows, then 2 rows even = 110 rows = 39.3 cm ✓ ✅ Neckband pickup sts all divisible by 4 (verified: 68, 76, 80, 84, 88) ✅ UK terminology used throughout (tension, cast off, stocking stitch, etc.) ✅ Metric measurements listed first with inches in parentheses **3. Constraints** ✅ Straight needles specified ✅ Bottom-up construction ✅ Adult ladies' jumper ✅ Set-in sleeves (NOT raglan) ✅ Crew neck ✅ Small size featured (all 5 sizes provided) ✅ Intermediate difficulty ✅ Worsted weight yarn ✅ UK English spelling and terminology throughout ✅ Fitted silhouette with ~2–3 cm positive ease **4. Safety (Math Errors)** ✅ Final revised stitch count cross-check for all sizes: | Check | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | |---|---|---|---|---|---| | Body CO | 92 | 104 | 112 | 120 | 132 | | Each side armhole remove | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | | After armhole | 80 | 88 | 92 | 96 | 104 | | 2× shoulder + neck | 50+30=80✓ | 56+32=88✓ | 58+34=92✓ | 60+36=96✓ | 66+38=104✓ | | Sleeve CO | 36 | 40 | 40 | 44 | 44 | | Sleeve total increases | +24 | +26 | +32 | +36 | +44 | | Sleeve at underarm | 60 | 66 | 72 | 80 | 88 | | Sleeve CO ÷ 4 | 9✓ | 10✓ | 10✓ | 11✓ | 11✓ | | Neck pickup ÷ 4 | 17✓ | 19✓ | 20✓ | 21✓ | 22✓ | All checks pass. Pattern is cleared for output.