purlJam

# TITLE
**Simple Crew Neck Drop-Shoulder Pullover (Machine Knit)**
Skill Level: Beginner • Style: Classic worsted pullover with 2×2 rib trims and a clean crew neckline.

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# MACHINE_SETUP
- **Machine**: Standard mid-gauge knitting machine (6.5 mm pitch) with ribber attachment.
- **Bed configuration**: Main bed + ribber in 2×2 rib arrangement for hems/cuffs/neckband; main bed only for body/sleeves in stockinette.
- **Cast-on method**: Closed-edge ribber cast-on with ravel cord and waste yarn for hems.
- **Tools required**: 1- and 3-prong transfer tools, latch tool, ribber cast-on comb, claw weights (4), main weight bar, ravel cord, tapestry needle.
- **Tension dials**:
  - Rib (main bed): T·3
  - Rib (ribber bed): T·3
  - Stockinette body: T·7 (adjust after swatch)
- **Carriage levers**: Normal knit setting; Russell levers (ribber) set to "P" for plain knit; part buttons OFF.
- **Swatch instructions**: Cast on 40 sts, knit 60 rows at T·7. Bind off loosely, steam, rest 24 hours before measuring.

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# MATERIALS
- **Yarn**: Worsted weight (Aran/CYC #4), approx. 1,000–1,300 m total depending on size. Sample uses smooth merino-blend.
- **Cone-ready**: Yes; if using skeins, wind into pull-balls and use a yarn mast/tension unit.
- **Notions**: Tapestry needle, blocking pins, sweater board (optional), iron with steam.
- **Sizes**: S (M) L — finished chest 100 (108) 116 cm. Sample shown in **Size M**.

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# GAUGE_AND_TENSION
- **Stitch gauge**: 20 sts = 10 cm (4") in stockinette at T·7, after steaming.
- **Row gauge**: 28 rows = 10 cm (4") in stockinette at T·7.
- **Rib gauge**: 24 sts = 10 cm in 2×2 rib at T·3/T·3 (relaxed).
- **Measure** after steaming swatch and resting flat for 24 hours. Adjust tension up half a number if your gauge is tight, down half if loose.

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# SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES (Size M shown; S/L in parentheses where applicable)
| Measurement | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Finished chest | 100 cm | 108 cm | 116 cm |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 62 cm | 64 cm | 66 cm |
| Armhole depth (drop) | 22 cm | 24 cm | 26 cm |
| Sleeve length (cuff to top) | 46 cm | 48 cm | 50 cm |
| Sleeve top width | 40 cm | 44 cm | 48 cm |
| Neck width | 20 cm | 22 cm | 24 cm |

Math check (M): 108 cm × 20 sts/10 cm = 216 sts total → 108 sts per panel ✓. 64 cm × 28 rows/10 cm ≈ 180 rows ✓.

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# BACK_PANEL
**Cast on 108 sts** (54 main bed + 54 ribber) in 2×2 rib arrangement. Set RC000.

- **RC000**: Ribber cast-on with ravel cord + waste yarn (10 rows waste), then introduce main yarn. Hang cast-on comb with 4 claw weights evenly distributed. Carriage at **COR**.
- **RC001–020**: Knit 2×2 rib at T·3/T·3. End with carriage at COL.
- **RC020**: Transfer all ribber stitches up to main bed using 3-prong transfer tool. Drop ribber. Reset tension to T·7. 108 sts on main bed.
- **RC021–180**: Knit straight in stockinette at T·7. Re-hang claw weights every 30 rows. 
  - Optional: mark armhole point at **RC112** (mid-body) with scrap yarn loop on edge stitch — this is where the sleeve top will meet.
- **RC180**: Carriage at COR. Body length = 180 rows ÷ 28 × 10 = 64.3 cm ✓.
- **Shoulder/neck bind-off**:
  - Center 44 sts = back neck. Side 32 sts each = shoulders.
  - Bring carriage to COL. Use **hold position**: push outer 32 sts (right shoulder) to hold, knit across and back to scrap-off the left shoulder 32 sts onto waste yarn (10 rows waste, drop).
  - Return right shoulder to upper working position; scrap off the right shoulder 32 sts the same way.
  - Scrap off the center 44 neck sts onto waste yarn separately. Remove from machine.

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# FRONT_PANEL
Work identically to BACK through **RC160** (20 rows before shoulder).

- **RC160**: Carriage at COR. Begin front neck shaping. Center 28 sts will be bound off; each side will lose 8 more sts over 20 rows.
- **RC161**: Bring carriage to center. Scrap off center **28 sts** onto waste yarn (this is the neck base). Push these needles to non-working position (NWP).
- **Left shoulder (knit first, right side of work)**:
  - With carriage at COR, push all right-side 40 sts to hold.
  - Knit left side only. Decrease 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows × 8 times using 1-prong transfer tool (move edge st in, push empty needle to NWP).
  - RC161–176: 8 decreases over 16 rows. Knit 4 plain rows to RC180. 32 sts remain.
  - Scrap off left shoulder onto waste yarn. Drop from machine.
- **Right shoulder**:
  - Return right-side 40 sts to upper working position; bring left-side needles to NWP.
  - Rehang yarn, knit symmetrically: decrease 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows × 8 times.
  - RC180: scrap off right shoulder 32 sts.

Math check: 32 + 28 + 8 + 8 + 32 = 108 sts ✓.

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# SLEEVES (make 2)
**Cast on 48 sts** (24 main + 24 ribber) in 2×2 rib. Set RC000. Carriage at COR.

- **RC000–020**: 2×2 rib at T·3/T·3. End COL.
- **RC020**: Transfer ribber sts to main bed. 48 sts on main bed. Reset T·7.
- **RC021–140**: Stockinette with increases.
  - **Increase plan**: Increase 1 st each side every 6 rows × 20 times.
  - At each increase row: bring 1 empty needle into work at each edge using 1-prong transfer tool (pick up purl bar from row below to avoid edge holes).
  - After 20 increases: 48 + 40 = **88 sts** ✓ (= 44 cm top width).
- **RC141–134**: Knit 0 extra plain rows (final increase falls at RC141; sleeve ends RC141 for length 50.3 cm). Adjust: knit straight to **RC134** total if hitting 48 cm target.
  - Length check: 134 rows ÷ 28 × 10 = 47.9 cm ≈ 48 cm ✓.
- **RC134**: Scrap off all 88 sts onto waste yarn (10 rows waste). Remove from machine.

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# NECKBAND
1. **Join right shoulder seam first**: lay back and front shoulder waste-yarn loops together with right sides facing; use latch-tool bind-off (or mattress stitch later).
2. **Rehang neckline stitches**: With wrong side facing you, rehang 108 sts evenly around the neck opening onto the main bed:
   - 28 sts across front base
   - 16 sts down each front neck slope
   - 44 sts across back neck
   - 4 sts buffer up each shoulder
   - Total ≈ 108 sts. Adjust to a multiple of 4 for 2×2 rib.
3. **Set up 2×2 rib**: Engage ribber; transfer alternating pairs to ribber bed. Tension T·3/T·3. Carriage at COR.
4. **RC000–016**: Knit 16 rows of 2×2 rib (≈ 6 cm; folds to 3 cm finished band).
5. **Bind off**: Latch-tool bind-off around — pull each stitch through the next with the latch tool, keeping tension loose to allow head to pass through. Cut yarn and weave end.
6. **Join left shoulder seam** and the open neckband edge with mattress stitch.

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# FINISHING
1. **Steam all pieces** lightly on wrong side with iron held above fabric (do not press worsted flat). Allow to cool.
2. **Block** panels to schematic measurements using sweater board or blocking mats and pins. Rest 12–24 hours.
3. **Shoulder seams**: If not already joined via latch-tool, use mattress stitch through scrapped loops.
4. **Set in sleeves (drop-shoulder)**: Lay body flat. Center sleeve top at shoulder seam; sleeve top edge runs straight along the body side. Pin from shoulder seam down 22 cm on each side (= half of 44 cm sleeve top). Mattress stitch sleeve top to body edge.
5. **Side and underarm seams**: Sew in one continuous mattress-stitch seam from cuff edge through underarm to hem.
6. **Weave in all ends** on wrong side, working along purl bumps.
7. **Final steam**: Light steam over all seams; lay flat to dry on sweater board.

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# ABBREVIATIONS
- **RC**: Row counter
- **COL / COR**: Carriage on left / right
- **NWP**: Non-working position (needle out of work)
- **UWP**: Upper working position (holding position)
- **WY**: Waste yarn
- **MY**: Main yarn
- **T·n**: Tension dial setting
- **sts**: Stitches
- **2×2 rib**: Two stitches knit, two stitches purl arrangement (alternating needles between beds)
- **Latch-tool bind-off**: Machine-knit chain bind-off using the latch tool
- **Scrap off**: Knit several rows of waste yarn to hold live stitches off the machine
- **Transfer tool**: Eyelet tool used to move sts between needles/beds
- **Hold position**: Needles pushed forward so they do not knit (D position on most machines)

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**End of Pattern — Happy Knitting!**