Mauve Rose Cardigan

A beginner kimono-style open cardigan in soft sky blue

Difficulty: Easy
Skills used: chain, half double crochet, single crochet, seaming, even stitch pick-up

This is an oversized, T-shaped open cardigan worked entirely in half double crochet. You make five rectangles—one back, two fronts, and two wide, untapered sleeves—then seam them at right angles. There is no armhole shaping, no waist shaping, and no sleeve tapering. Dropped shoulders and a boxy fit make the math forgiving. A simple band finishes the front opening, neck, hem, and cuffs.

Sample is worked in one color: soft sky blue.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50)" [76 (86.5, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127) cm]
Designed ease: about 10" [25.5 cm] of positive ease

Instructions are written for XS with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Highlight your size throughout before you begin.

Finished Measurements

Metric: 101.5 (113, 122, 133.5, 142, 153.5) cm bust; 66 (68.5, 71, 73.5, 76, 78.5) cm length.

Length is easy to change: every 11 rows of hdc = 4" [10 cm]. Add or subtract rows on the body and/or sleeves before seaming.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) cotton yarn; about 186 yd [170 m] per 3.5 oz [100 g] skein.
Shown in a smooth mercerized or soft-spun cotton in Soft Sky Blue.

Yardage: 1,450 (1,600, 1,750, 1,950, 2,150, 2,350) yd [1,325 (1,465, 1,600, 1,785, 1,965, 2,150) m]

Skeins (186 yd / 100 g): 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13)

Cotton suggestions: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, WeCrochet / Knit Picks Dishie, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, or any worsted cotton that matches gauge. Choose a drapey cotton or cotton blend; very stiff cotton will feel boxier.

Hook: US I/9 (5.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
Optional second hook: US H/8 (5.0 mm) for a slightly firmer border

Notions:

• Yarn needle
• 8 stitch markers
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Optional: 2 buttons or toggles (¾–1" [2–2.5 cm])

Gauge

14 hdc and 11 rows = 4" [10 cm] in hdc with US I/9 (5.5 mm), measured after light steam or wet blocking.

Swatch: Ch 18. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (17 hdc). Ch 1, turn. Work 13 more rows of hdc (14 rows total). Block. Count 14 stitches and 11 rows in the center.

• 14 sts ÷ 4" = 3.5 sts per inch ✓
• 11 rows ÷ 4" = 2.75 rows per inch ✓

Cotton has almost no stretch. If you have too many stitches per 4", go up a hook size; if too few, go down. The fit is oversized, but length and sleeve length should match the schematic.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

Notes

1. The cardigan is five rectangles. There is no decreasing, no increasing, and no armhole shaping.
2. Work in rows, turning at the end of every row.
3. Turning chain: Ch 1 at the start of each hdc row does not count as a stitch. Work the first hdc in the first stitch (the same stitch at the base of the turning chain). This keeps the edges straight—important for seaming.
4. Count stitches at the end of the first 4–5 rows until the count feels automatic.
5. The first row of each piece is the hem or cuff (WS). The last row is the shoulder edge (RS if you end on an even row count; either side is fine because hdc looks similar on both faces).
6. Sizes are written XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL).
7. Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) may replace the starting chain plus Row 1 if you prefer a stretchier edge; match the stated stitch count.
8. Block every piece before seaming. Cotton evens out and drapes much better after a wet block.

Schematic (T-shape)

Work five flat rectangles, then join into a T.

Pieces (before seaming):

 BACK                    LEFT FRONT        RIGHT FRONT
+------------------+      +--------+        +--------+
|                  |      |        |        |        |
|                  |      |        |        |        |
|      width       |      |  half  |        |  half  |
|                  |      |        |        |        |
|      hem         |      |  hem   |        |  hem   |
+------------------+      +--------+        +--------+

 SLEEVE (make 2) — cuff at the foundation, shoulder at the last row
+--------------------------------------+  ← last row =  sleeve width
|                                      |     (this edge joins the body)
|            sleeve length             |
|                                      |
+--------------------------------------+  ← Row 1 = cuff


Assembled (front view):

          cuff                         cuff
           |                            |
      +----+----+                  +----+----+
      |  SLEEVE |                  |  SLEEVE |
      |         |                  |         |
------+---------+------------------+---------+------  ← shoulder line
      |         |    back neck     |         |
      |  FRONT  |                  |  FRONT  |
      |         |                  |         |
      |         |                  |         |
      +---------+                  +---------+
              hem                      hem

Dropped-shoulder join: the last row of each sleeve is sewn to the side edges of the back and front, centered on the shoulder seam. The sleeve sticks out at a right angle (the T).

Pattern

Back

With US I/9 (5.5 mm) and sky blue, ch 71 (78, 85, 92, 99, 106).

Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.
71 − 1 = 70 hdc (XS) ✓
Stitch count: 70 (77, 84, 91, 98, 105) hdc.
Check: 70 sts ÷ 3.5 sts per inch = 20" ✓
77 ÷ 3.5 = 22" ✓ · 84 ÷ 3.5 = 24" ✓ · 91 ÷ 3.5 = 26" ✓ · 98 ÷ 3.5 = 28" ✓ · 105 ÷ 3.5 = 30" ✓

Row 2: Hdc in each hdc across, ch 1, turn.
Count remains 70 (77, 84, 91, 98, 105) hdc.

Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures 26 (27, 28, 29, 30, 31)" [66 (68.5, 71, 73.5, 76, 78.5) cm] from the foundation chain.

Row guide (optional): about 72 (74, 77, 80, 83, 85) rows.
72 rows ÷ 2.75 rows per inch = 26.2" (XS) ✓

Fasten off, leaving a 24" [61 cm] tail for seaming, or weave in and seam with a separate yarn length. PM at the center of the last row (the neck center).

Fronts (make 2 alike)

Ch 36 (40, 43, 47, 50, 54).

Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.
Stitch count: 35 (39, 42, 46, 49, 53) hdc.
Check: 35 ÷ 3.5 = 10" ✓ · 39 ÷ 3.5 = 11.14" (11¼") ✓ · 42 ÷ 3.5 = 12" ✓ · 46 ÷ 3.5 = 13.14" (13¼") ✓ · 49 ÷ 3.5 = 14" ✓ · 53 ÷ 3.5 = 15.14" (15¼") ✓

Row 2: Hdc in each hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the front matches the Back length: 26 (27, 28, 29, 30, 31)". Use the same row count as the Back.

Fasten off. Make a second front the same way.

Bust check (fronts meeting, before border):
20 + 10 + 10 = 40" (XS) ✓
22 + 11¼ + 11¼ = 44½" (S) ✓
24 + 12 + 12 = 48" (M) ✓
26 + 13¼ + 13¼ = 52½" (L) ✓
28 + 14 + 14 = 56" (XL) ✓
30 + 15¼ + 15¼ = 60½" (2XL) ✓

Sleeves (make 2)

Sleeves are straight rectangles—the same width from cuff to shoulder. Do not taper.

Ch 64 (68, 71, 76, 81, 85).

Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.
Stitch count: 63 (67, 70, 75, 80, 84) hdc.
Check: 63 ÷ 3.5 = 18" ✓ · 67 ÷ 3.5 = 19.14" (19¼") ✓ · 70 ÷ 3.5 = 20" ✓ · 75 ÷ 3.5 = 21.43" (21½") ✓ · 80 ÷ 3.5 = 22.86" (22¾") ✓ · 84 ÷ 3.5 = 24" ✓

Row 2: Hdc in each hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the sleeve measures 16 (16, 16½, 16½, 17, 17)" [40.5 (40.5, 42, 42, 43, 43) cm] from the foundation chain (this is cuff to shoulder).

Row guide (optional): about 44 (44, 45, 45, 47, 47) rows.
44 ÷ 2.75 = 16" ✓

Do not fasten off in a way that hides the last row—the last row is the edge that joins the body. Fasten off, leaving a 30" [76 cm] tail, or use a separate seaming length.

Mark the sleeve for joining:
On the last row, PM at the center stitch.
Center of 63 sts is st 32 (XS) ✓
Also PM 9 (9⅝, 10, 10¾, 11⅜, 12)" to each side of center — these markers sit at the two ends of the last row and will match the underarm points.

Make a second sleeve the same way.

Assembly

Block all five pieces to the finished measurements. For cotton: soak 15 minutes in lukewarm water, roll in a towel, pin to size, and dry completely.

Use mattress stitch (invisible) or whip stitch. Work with RS facing you for mattress stitch, or WS together for whip stitch. Keep seams relaxed so the cotton still drapes.

1. Shoulder seams

Lay the Back flat, last row at the top. Place Fronts on top, last rows aligned with the Back last row, outer (side) edges matching. The inner (center-front) edges of the Fronts will not meet in the middle of the Back—that open space is the neck.

Seam each shoulder from the outer edge inward for 6 (6¾, 7½, 8¼, 9, 9¾)" [15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) cm].

Leave the center of the Back unseamed.
Back neck left open: 20 − 6 − 6 = 8" (XS) ✓
22 − 6.75 − 6.75 = 8.5" (S) ✓
24 − 7.5 − 7.5 = 9" (M) ✓
26 − 8.25 − 8.25 = 9.5" (L) ✓
28 − 9 − 9 = 10" (XL) ✓
30 − 9.75 − 9.75 = 10.5" (2XL) ✓

On each Front, the leftover inner top edge (about 4–5½") stays open and becomes the front neck.

Do not sew the fronts together at center back.

2. Attach the sleeves (this creates the T)

Spread the body open so Back and Fronts lie in one line, shoulder seams horizontal.

Take one Sleeve. Match the center marker of the sleeve last row to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve last row along the body side edges (the row-ends of Back and Front), with half the sleeve on the Back and half on the Front.

• Armhole depth each side of the shoulder: 9 (9⅝, 10, 10¾, 11⅜, 12)"
• Half of sleeve width: 18 ÷ 2 = 9" (XS) ✓

Sew this edge from underarm marker, over the shoulder seam, to the other underarm marker. The sleeve now sits at a right angle to the body (dropped shoulder). Repeat for the second sleeve.

3. Side and underarm seams

Fold the cardigan along the shoulders, WS together (or RS together if you prefer an inside whip stitch).

On each side, sew one continuous seam:

1. From the hem up the side, stopping at the underarm (where the sleeve join begins).
2. Then from the underarm out to the cuff, joining the two long edges of the sleeve.

Side seam length (hem to underarm):
Body length − armhole depth = 26 − 9 = 17" (XS) ✓
31 − 12 = 19" (2XL) ✓

Repeat on the other side. Weave in remaining ends except those you still need for the border.

Border

Use the main hook, or US H/8 (5.0 mm) for a neater, slightly firmer edge. RS facing throughout.

A. Front and neck band

Join yarn with sl st at the bottom right front corner (right-hand side as you wear it).

Row 1: Ch 1. Work sc evenly up the right front, across the unseamed top of the right front, across the back neck, across the unseamed top of the left front, and down the left front to the bottom left corner. Ch 1, turn.

Pick-up rate (keep it even):

• Along row-ends (vertical fronts): 3 sc for every 2 hdc rows
• Across stitches (horizontal neck edges): 1 sc in each st
• At each inner corner where a front top edge turns into the back neck: work 3 sc in the corner st so the band lies flat.

Row 2: Sc in each sc across. At each of the two inner neck corners, work 3 sc in the center sc of the 3-sc group. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

Row 4 (optional collar depth): Hdc in each st across, still working 3 hdc in each inner neck corner. Fasten off.

A 4-row band is about 1–1¼" [2.5–3 cm] wide.

B. Hem border

Join yarn at one side seam on the hem, RS facing.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each foundation-chain st around the entire hem (both fronts and back), working 3 sc in each bottom front corner so the corner stays square. Join with sl st to first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, 3 sc in each corner sc. Join. Fasten off.

C. Cuff borders (both sleeves)

Join yarn at the sleeve seam on the cuff, RS facing.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each foundation-chain st around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Count: 63 (67, 70, 75, 80, 84) sc ✓

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join. Fasten off.

For a snugger cuff, use the 5.0 mm hook and, on Rnd 2 only, sc2tog at 4 even points (4 decreases → 63 − 4 = 59 sc on XS ✓). Do not decrease if you want the sleeve to stay wide and kimono-like.

Optional ties (make 2)

Ch 80 (or 28–32" [71–81 cm]). Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.

Sew one tie to each front edge at the waist (about 10–12" [25.5–30.5 cm] up from the hem), or sew both ties at the side seams to wrap as a belt. Skip the ties if you prefer the cardigan worn open, or add a single button and a chain-8 loop at the bust.

Finishing

Weave in every remaining end on the WS. Steam-block or wet-block the finished cardigan, pinning the T-shape so:

• body sides are straight
• sleeves come off at right angles
• front bands lie flat without rippling

Let dry fully. Cotton relaxes and the stitches even out—do not skip this step.

Wear and customize

• Shorter (cropped): stop the body at 18–20" [45.5–51 cm].
• Longer (knee): add rows to 34–36" [86.5–91.5 cm]; buy 1 extra skein.
• ¾ sleeves: work sleeves to 12" [30.5 cm].
• More overlap: add 4 hdc to each front (4 sts ÷ 3.5 = about 1¼" extra per front).
• Color: pattern is written for solid soft sky blue; stripes of 2–4 rows also work because every piece is a plain rectangle.

Enjoy your Mauve Rose Cardigan.