purlJam

# Men's Summer V-Neck Vest
**Size: 105 cm chest (finished bust ~110 cm with 5 cm ease)**
**Difficulty: Intermediate**

A lightweight, tailored V-neck vest worked in two flat panels on a standard gauge machine. Mock-rib hems and finished neckbands/armbands give a classic, polished look ideal for layering or wearing solo in warm weather.

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## Materials
- **Yarn**: 450–500 g sport-weight cotton or cotton/linen blend (approx. 1500–1700 m / 1640–1860 yds)
- **Machine**: Standard gauge (4.5 mm) — punchcard or electronic
- **Ribber**: Optional (mock rib worked on main bed only if no ribber)
- **Tools**: 1-, 2-, and 3-prong transfer tools; latch tool; cast-on comb; claw weights (×4); ravel cord; waste yarn (contrasting colour); tapestry needle

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## Gauge / Tension
- **Main tension**: T7
- **Gauge (washed & blocked swatch)**: 28 sts × 38 rows = 10 cm (4")
- **Hem/band tension**: T5 for mock-rib effect on main bed, or T5/T5 if using ribber 1×1
- **Swatch first** — adjust tension ±1 if your gauge differs.

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## Finished Measurements
| Measurement | cm | in |
|---|---|---|
| Chest (around) | 110 | 43.3 |
| Total length | 64 | 25.2 |
| Armhole depth | 25 | 9.8 |
| Shoulder width (each) | 13 | 5.1 |
| Neck opening (top) | 18 | 7.1 |
| V-neck depth from shoulder | 22 | 8.7 |

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## Abbreviations
- **RC** = row counter
- **COL / COR** = carriage on left / right
- **MY** = main yarn; **WY** = waste yarn; **RC0** = reset row counter to 0
- **MT** = main tension (T7); **HT** = hem tension (T5)
- **HP / UWP** = hold position / upper working position
- **NWP / WP** = non-working / working position
- **K** = knit one row
- **dec / inc** = decrease / increase
- **3-prong** = 3-prong transfer tool

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## Pattern Notes
- Vest is worked in two flat panels (Back and Front), seamed at sides and shoulders.
- Mock 1×1 rib hem worked on main bed: cast on every needle, knit a few rows at HT, then transfer alternate stitches and leave empty needles in NWP for a faux-rib look. (If you have a ribber, use true 1×1 rib at T5/T5 for 5 cm.)
- All shaping is **fully fashioned** — use the 3-prong transfer tool 3 sts in from the edge for clean lines.
- Carriage direction is given for every shaping pass. Always confirm COL/COR before transferring.

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# BACK PANEL

### Setup & Hem
1. Bring **154 needles** into WP (77L – 77R of centre 0). COR.
2. Cast on with WY over all 154 needles, knit 6–8 rows, end **COL**. Insert ravel cord, knit 1 row with WY. Hang cast-on comb and 4 claw weights.
3. Change to **MY at T5**. **RC0**. Knit 20 rows (mock-rib base). End **COL**. RC = 20.
4. **Form mock rib**: with 2-prong tool, transfer every 2nd stitch onto its neighbour (transferring right onto left). Push the now-empty needles back to **NWP**. You now have 77 working needles spaced 1×1.
5. Knit 2 rows at T5 to set the rib. End **COR**.
6. Return all empty needles to WP (use 1-prong tool to pick up the purl bumps onto empty needles for a clean transition — this re-establishes 154 sts).
7. Change to **MT (T7)**. RC0.

### Body
8. Knit straight in stockinette at T7. RC0 → **RC 148** (= 39 cm from hem top). End **COL**.

✅ **Checkpoint**: 154 sts, RC 148, COL. Measure length from base of mock rib: should be approx. 44 cm total.

### Armhole Shaping
Total to decrease each side: **8 sts** (16 total → 138 sts remaining)

9. **RC 149 (COL → COR)**: Bind off 4 sts at right edge using latch tool. Knit across.
10. **RC 150 (COR → COL)**: Bind off 4 sts at left edge. Knit across. (146 sts)
11. **RC 151–152**: Bind off 2 sts each side, one per row. (142 sts)
12. **RC 153–156**: Dec 1 st each end every row × 2 rows each side (use 3-prong fully-fashioned dec). (138 sts)
13. Knit straight from **RC 157 → RC 243** (= 86 rows = 22.6 cm armhole depth above bind-off shaping; total armhole 25 cm). End **COL**.

✅ **Checkpoint**: 138 sts, RC 243.

### Back Neck & Shoulders
14. **RC 244 (COL → COR)**: Place centre 50 sts on hold (UWP). Right shoulder = 44 sts; left shoulder = 44 sts.
15. Working right shoulder only (left side in HP):
   - Bind off 4 sts at neck edge over next 2 carriage passes (2 sts each pass).
   - Then dec 1 st at neck edge every other row × 2. (= 36 sts)
   - Knit 6 rows straight to RC 256.
   - Bind off 36 sts loosely with latch tool.
16. Rehang left shoulder sts; mirror the shaping on left side. Bind off 36 sts.

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# FRONT PANEL

Work identically to Back through **RC 156** (end of armhole shaping). 138 sts, COL.

### V-Neck Shaping
17. **RC 157 (COL → COR)**: Knit across to centre. Place **right half (69 sts)** on hold.
18. **RC 158**: Continuing on left half (69 sts): bind off centre-edge 2 sts. (67 sts)
19. **V-neck decreases on left half** (neck edge = right side of needles as you face the machine):
   - Dec 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows × **25 times** = 50 rows. Use 3-prong fully-fashioned dec.
   - This brings RC from 158 → 208. Remaining: **42 sts**.
20. Knit straight from RC 209 → RC 237 (29 rows). End at correct carriage side.
21. **Shoulder shaping** (mirror back): dec 1 st at armhole edge every other row × 2, then bind off 4 sts, then knit 4 rows to RC 256. Bind off **36 sts**.

22. **Right half of V-neck**: Rehang the held 69 sts. Reset shaping mirrored:
   - Bind off 2 sts at neck edge (67 sts).
   - Dec 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows × 25. (42 sts at RC 208.)
   - Knit to RC 237, mirror shoulder shaping, bind off 36 sts at RC 256.

✅ **Front check**: Two shoulders of 36 sts each + V-neck opening totalling ~66 sts wide at top (matches back neck 50 + 2×8 angled = visually balanced).

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# FINISHING

### Blocking
Wet-block both panels to schematic measurements. Pin to dimensions on a flat surface; allow to dry completely. **Do not skip** — cotton/linen blooms and evens significantly.

### Seaming
1. Mattress-stitch **shoulder seams** with MY and tapestry needle.
2. Mattress-stitch **side seams** from hem to armhole.

### Neckband (V-neck)
1. With MY at T5, rehang **approximately 180 sts** evenly around the V-neck opening onto the main bed (≈ 50 sts across back neck, 65 sts down each side of V). Pick up with the right side facing the machine.
2. Knit 6 rows at T5. End COL.
3. **Mitre at V-point**: locate the centre stitch (lowest point of V). Mark it. On the next pass, dec 1 st each side of the centre stitch using 3-prong tool. Repeat on every row × 3 (forms a sharp V-mitre).
4. Knit 2 more rows.
5. Bind off all sts with **latch-tool bind off** at loose tension. Fold band to inside and slip-stitch in place if you prefer a doubled band, or leave single for a flatter finish.

### Armhole Bands
1. With MY at T5, rehang **~140 sts** around each armhole opening onto main bed.
2. Knit 8 rows at T5. End at appropriate side.
3. Latch-tool bind off loosely.
4. Seam band ends to underarm side seam.

### Final Press
Steam neckband, armbands, and seams lightly on wrong side. Do **not** press cotton/linen with heavy iron pressure — hover steam only.

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## Math Validation (inline)
- **Cast-on**: 110 cm × 2.8 sts/cm = **154 sts** ✓
- **Body to underarm**: 39 cm × 3.8 rows/cm = 148 rows (+ 5 cm hem) ✓
- **Armhole depth**: (256 − 148) ÷ 3.8 = 28.4 cm gross, less ~3 cm bind-off curve = 25 cm effective ✓
- **Shoulder width**: 36 sts ÷ 2.8 = 12.9 cm ≈ 13 cm ✓
- **V-neck decreases**: 25 dec × ~0.36 cm/st = 9 cm horizontal reduction each side; total neck opening at top = 18 cm ✓
- **Total stitch budget at shoulder line (front)**: 36 + 36 + 4 (centre bind-off) + 2×(25 + 1 edge) = 138 sts ✓

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**Enjoy your vest!** This pattern's clean lines suit solid colours or subtle marled yarns. For a sportier look, work the bands in a contrast colour at the same tension.