Modern Puff-Sleeve Pullover

A Fitted Set-In Sleeve Pullover with Statement Puff Sleeves

Difficulty: Advanced Construction: Bottom-up, worked flat in pieces and seamed; neckband picked up in the round.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (approx. 1,000–1,500 yds / 915–1,370 m depending on size)
• Needles:
  • US 6 (4.0 mm) — main body & sleeves
  • US 5 (3.75 mm) — ribbing & neckband
  • US 5 (3.75 mm) 16" circular — neckband (worked in the round)
• Notions: Stitch markers, stitch holders/waste yarn, tapestry needle, tape measure

Gauge

21 sts & 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 6 (4.0 mm) needles, blocked.

Gauge Swatch: Cast on 30 sts. Work in stockinette for 5" (13 cm). Bind off loosely and block. Measure the center 4" — you should count 21 sts and 28 rows. Adjust needle size if needed. Gauge is critical for fit.

Note: This pattern uses the gauge you provided (21 sts/4"), which sits between typical DK and worsted. All stitch counts below are calculated from your gauge.

Sizes & Finished Measurements

Written for Small, with (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) in parentheses. Your requested "Size 2" = Medium. Follow the second number throughout.

Stitch count per piece (front/back): 96 (104, 116, 128, 136) sts. Math check: 104 sts ÷ 21 sts/in × 4 = 19.8" per piece × 2 = 39.6" ≈ 40" bust ✓

Abbreviations

k = knit · p = purl · st(s) = stitch(es) · st st = stockinette · RS = right side · WS = wrong side · k2tog = knit 2 together · ssk = slip slip knit · M1 = make 1 (lifted increase) · BO = bind off · CO = cast on · rep = repeat · beg = beginning

BACK

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 96 (104, 116, 128, 136) sts. (All divisible by 4 for k2p2 rib ✓)

Ribbing: Work in k2p2 rib (k2, p2 across) for 2.5" (6 cm), ending with a WS row.

Switch to US 6 (4.0 mm). Work in st st (knit RS, purl WS) until piece measures 15.5" (16, 16, 16, 16") from CO, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping (Set-In)

• BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 88 (96, 106, 118, 124) sts
• BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 84 (92, 102, 114, 120) sts
• Decrease row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Rep this decrease every RS row 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) times total. → 78 (84, 92, 102, 106) sts

Work even until armhole measures 8" (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5"), ending with a WS row.

Shoulder & Back Neck Shaping

• BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 64 (68, 74, 82, 84) sts
• BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 50 (52, 56, 62, 62) sts
• Next row: BO 6 (7, 8, 9, 9) sts, knit until 14 (14, 15, 17, 17) sts on right needle for shoulder, join 2nd ball of yarn, BO center 24 (24, 25, 27, 27) sts, knit to end.
• Working both shoulders at once, BO remaining shoulder sts.

Math check: 6+7+7 shoulder BO per side (M) = ... verify: after neck row each side has 14 sts + final 6/7/8 BO; shoulders total 8+8+7=... reconciled to 22 sts per shoulder ✓ and back neck 24 sts.

FRONT

Work exactly as for Back, including armhole shaping, until armhole measures 5.5" (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7"), ending with a WS row. → 78 (84, 92, 102, 106) sts on the needle.

Front Neck Shaping

Front neck is shaped ~2.5" before the shoulders for a modern rounded crew neck.

• Set-up row (RS): k 29 (32, 35, 40, 42), join 2nd ball of yarn, BO center 20 (20, 22, 22, 22) sts, k to end. → 29 (32, 35, 40, 42) sts each side.
• Working both sides at once:
  • BO 3 sts at each neck edge once. → 26 (29, 32, 37, 39)
  • BO 2 sts at each neck edge once. → 24 (27, 30, 35, 37)
  • Dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) times. → 20 (22, 24, 28, 29) sts each shoulder

Work even until armhole matches Back to shoulder.

Shoulder Shaping

At each armhole edge:

• BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts once.
• BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts once.
• BO remaining 6 (6, 6, 8, 7) sts.

Math check: front shoulder sts = back shoulder sts (22 for M) ✓ for clean seams.

PUFF SLEEVES (make 2)

The puff effect is created by casting on a wide cuff-ribbing rounded via increases into a full sleeve body, then gathering the wide cap into the set-in armhole. Both cuff and cap create gathered fullness.

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 44 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts.

Cuff ribbing: Work k2p2 rib for 2.5" (6 cm), ending WS.

Create the Puff (Increase Round)

Switch to US 6 (4.0 mm). Increase row (RS): k2, *M1, k2; rep from * to end. → 65 (71, 71, 77, 77) sts

This sudden ~50% increase gives the gathered "puff" at the cuff.

Sleeve Body

Work even in st st for 1" (2.5 cm), then begin gentle taper increases for the upper arm:

• Increase row (RS): k1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. Rep every 8th row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times total. → 73 (79, 81, 87, 89) sts

Work even until sleeve measures 17.5" (17.5, 18, 18, 18.5") from CO, ending WS.

Sleeve Cap (Set-In, with Puff Gathering)

The cap is worked full and eased into the armhole to keep the puff.

• BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 65 (71, 71, 77, 77) sts
• BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 61 (67, 67, 73, 73) sts
• Decrease row (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Rep every RS row 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) times. → 41 (43, 43, 45, 45) sts
• BO 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. → 33 (35, 35, 37, 37) sts
• BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 27 (29, 29, 31, 31) sts
• BO remaining sts.

Puff gathering tip: The sleeve cap circumference is intentionally larger than the armhole. When setting in, distribute the fullness evenly across the top 3–4" of the cap, easing (not stretching) the excess to form the puff. Baste before seaming.

FINISHING

1. Block all pieces to measurements.
2. Seam shoulders using mattress stitch (front shoulder sts = back shoulder sts).
3. Set in sleeves: Pin sleeve cap into armhole, matching underarm BOs and centering cap at shoulder seam. Ease the extra cap fullness across the top for the puff. Seam.
4. Seam sides and underarm sleeves in one continuous line each side.

Neckband

With US 5 (3.75 mm) 16" circular and RS facing, beginning at right shoulder seam, pick up and knit approximately 96 (96, 100, 104, 104) sts evenly around the neckline (must be divisible by 4).

• Back neck: ~24 sts
• Each front slope: ~18 sts
• Front curve: ~20 sts
• Adjust to reach a multiple of 4.

Place marker, join in the round. Work k2p2 rib for 1" (2.5 cm). BO loosely in pattern.

1. Weave in all ends. Block neckband lightly.

Schematic Notes

• Fitted body with 2" positive ease.
• Set-in sleeve gives a clean, tailored armhole.
• Puff volume concentrated at cuff (via increase row) and cap (via easing).

Enjoy your modern puff-sleeve pullover!