purlJam

# Mosaic Comfort Socks
### Beginner-Friendly Cuff-Down Worsted Weight Socks with Simple Mosaic Colorwork

This pattern makes **one pair of socks** (2 socks). Mosaic knitting looks like complex colorwork but you only use **one color per round** — the magic comes from slipping stitches from the previous round!

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## Sizes
- **Small / Child** (48 sts) — 7.5" foot circumference
- **Medium / Women's** (52 sts) — 8.25" foot circumference *(shown)*
- **Large / Men's** (56 sts) — 9" foot circumference

*Note: For mosaic compatibility, stitch counts are divisible by 4.*

Instructions are written for **Medium**, with Small and Large in parentheses: **M (S, L)**.

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## Materials

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), machine-washable wool or wool blend recommended
- **Color A (Main):** approximately 200 (175, 230) yards
- **Color B (Contrast):** approximately 75 (65, 90) yards
- Choose high-contrast colors for the mosaic pattern to show clearly

**Needles:** 
- US 5 (3.75 mm) set of 4 double-pointed needles (DPNs), OR
- US 5 (3.75 mm) 32" or 40" circular needle for magic loop

**Notions:**
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
- Scissors

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## Gauge

**20 sts × 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch, worked in the round, blocked.
- That's **5 stitches per inch**.
- Take time to check gauge — socks must fit snugly!

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## Abbreviations

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **sl1** – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back (unless noted)
- **sl1 wyif** – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front
- **k2tog** – knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **p2tog** – purl 2 together
- **psso** – pass slipped stitch over
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **rnd(s)** – round(s)
- **CA / CB** – Color A / Color B
- **MC / CC** – Main color / Contrast color

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## Mosaic Pattern Notes (Read First!)

**Mosaic knitting rules:**
1. You use only **one color per round** — the other color hangs loose at the back.
2. Stitches slipped on color rounds are slipped **purlwise with yarn in back** (wyib).
3. Always slip stitches that match the OPPOSITE color of the working yarn.
4. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the sock — twist colors at the start of each color change to prevent gaps.

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## Simple Mosaic Chess Pattern (4-st, 8-rnd repeat)

Worked over a multiple of 4 sts.

- **Rnds 1–2 (CB):** *k2, sl1 wyib, sl1 wyib*; rep from * to end
- **Rnds 3–4 (CA):** *sl1 wyib, sl1 wyib, k2*; rep from * to end
- **Rnds 5–6 (CB):** *sl1 wyib, sl1 wyib, k2*; rep from * to end
- **Rnds 7–8 (CA):** *k2, sl1 wyib, sl1 wyib*; rep from * to end

This creates a small "checkerboard" effect.

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## Pattern Instructions (Make 2 — one for each foot)

### CUFF

With **Color A**, cast on **52 (48, 56) sts** using long-tail cast-on.

Distribute evenly across needles:
- **DPNs:** 13 (12, 14) sts on each of 4 needles
- **Magic loop:** 26 (24, 28) sts on each side

Place marker for beginning of round. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

**Cuff ribbing:**
- **Rnds 1–12:** *k2, p2*; rep from * around.

*Cuff measures approximately 1.75" (4.5 cm).*

### LEG (with Mosaic Pattern)

Begin the leg by introducing Color B.

**Rnd 1 (CA):** Knit all stitches. *(set-up round)*

Now work the **Mosaic Chess Pattern** above, repeating Rnds 1–8 a total of **3 times** (24 rounds of mosaic).

After mosaic section, with **Color A**:
- **Knit 4 rnds.**

*Total leg length from cast-on: approximately 6.5" (16.5 cm). Cut Color B, leaving a 6" tail to weave in later. Continue in Color A only.*

**Math check:** 52 sts ÷ 4 = 13 pattern repeats. ✓

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked **flat** (back and forth) on half the stitches with Color A.

Knit across the first **26 (24, 28) sts**. These are your **heel flap stitches**. 

Turn work. Place the remaining **26 (24, 28) sts** on hold (these will become the instep — leave them on the other needle(s) and ignore for now).

Work back and forth on heel stitches only:

- **Row 1 (WS):** sl1 wyif, purl to end. (26 sts)
- **Row 2 (RS):** *sl1 wyib, k1*; rep from * across.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 a total of **13 (12, 14) times** — you'll work **26 (24, 28) rows total**, ending after a WS row.

*This creates a sturdy slip-stitch heel flap measuring about 2.25" (5.5 cm).*

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### HEEL TURN (Short Rows)

You'll work short rows to cup the heel. Don't panic — just follow each row carefully!

**For Medium (26 heel sts):**
- **Row 1 (RS):** sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn. *(leaves sts unworked)*
- **Row 2 (WS):** sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- **Row 3 (RS):** sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk (closing gap), k1, turn.
- **Row 4 (WS):** sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog (closing gap), p1, turn.
- Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked. End after a WS row.

**Heel turn st count: 16 (14, 18) sts remain.**

*For Small: Row 1 = sl1, k13, ssk, k1, turn. Row 2 = sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. Continue as above.*
*For Large: Row 1 = sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn. Row 2 = sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. Continue as above.*

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### GUSSET

Now we rejoin in the round and pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap.

**Set-up round (RS):**
1. Knit across all 16 (14, 18) heel turn sts.
2. With the same needle, pick up and knit **13 (12, 14) sts** along the left side of the heel flap (1 st in each slipped edge stitch).
3. Knit across the **26 (24, 28) instep sts** in pattern (just knit — mosaic is done).
4. With a new needle, pick up and knit **13 (12, 14) sts** along the right side of the heel flap.
5. Knit half of the heel turn sts (8/7/9) to reach the new beginning of round at the center back of the heel.

**Total sts on needle: 68 (62, 74) sts.**
- Sole/heel sts: 42 (38, 46)
- Instep sts: 26 (24, 28)

**Math check:** 16 + 13 + 26 + 13 = 68. ✓

**Gusset decrease rounds:**

- **Rnd 1 (decrease rnd):** Knit to last 3 sts of sole, k2tog, k1. Knit across instep. K1, ssk, knit to end.
- **Rnd 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rnds 1–2 until **52 (48, 56) sts** remain — back to original count.

**Math check:** 68 − 52 = 16 sts decreased ÷ 2 per decrease rnd = 8 decrease rounds + 8 plain rounds = 16 rnds. ✓

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### FOOT

Continue knitting every round in stockinette (knit every stitch) with Color A until foot measures **2" (5 cm) less than desired total foot length**.

*Average women's foot: 9.5" total → knit foot until 7.5" from back of heel.*
*Try the sock on as you go!*

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### TOE

The toe is shaped with paired decreases on opposite sides.

**Set-up:** Make sure your stitches are arranged with **26 (24, 28) sts on top (instep)** and **26 (24, 28) sts on bottom (sole)**.

- **Rnd 1 (decrease rnd):** 
  - Instep: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of instep, k2tog, k1.
  - Sole: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of sole, k2tog, k1.
  - *(4 sts decreased)*
- **Rnd 2:** Knit all stitches.

**Repeat Rnds 1–2 until 28 (24, 32) sts remain.**

Then work **Rnd 1 only** (decrease every round) until **16 sts remain** total — 8 on top, 8 on bottom.

**Math check (Medium):** 52 → alternate dec until 28 sts (6 dec rnds × 4 sts = 24 sts decreased, with plain rnds between). 28 → 16 = 3 more dec rnds. Total toe length ~2". ✓

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### FINISHING

**Kitchener stitch (grafting the toe):**

Cut yarn leaving a 14" tail. Thread tapestry needle. Hold the two needles parallel with 8 sts each — instep needle in front, sole needle in back.

**Set-up:**
- Insert tapestry needle purlwise through 1st st on front needle, pull yarn through, leave st on needle.
- Insert tapestry needle knitwise through 1st st on back needle, pull yarn through, leave st on needle.

**Repeat the following sequence:**
1. **Front needle:** knitwise, slip st off. Then purlwise through next st, leave on.
2. **Back needle:** purlwise, slip st off. Then knitwise through next st, leave on.

Continue until all sts are grafted. Snug up tension to match surrounding stitches.

**Weave in all ends** on the inside, paying special attention to color changes. Trim excess.

**Wet block:** Soak socks in lukewarm water with wool wash for 15 minutes. Squeeze out water (do not wring), roll in a towel, then lay flat to dry, smoothing into shape. Sock blockers help, but are not required.

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### Make a Second Sock!

Repeat all instructions to make a matching sock. **Tip:** For best color consistency, start your second sock from the same point in the dye lot. If you’d like fraternal (mismatched mosaic placement) socks, simply start anywhere — they’ll still be charming!

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## Quick Reference Card

| Section | Length | Stitch Count |
|---|---|---|
| Cuff (k2p2 rib) | 1.75" | 52 sts |
| Leg (mosaic + plain) | ~4.5" | 52 sts |
| Heel flap | 2.25" | 26 sts (flat) |
| Heel turn | — | 16 sts |
| Gusset pickup | — | 68 sts |
| After gusset decreases | — | 52 sts |
| Foot | to 2" before total | 52 sts |
| Toe decreases | ~2" | 52 → 16 sts |
| Kitchener graft | — | closes toe |

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**Congratulations!** You've completed mosaic colorwork socks. Wear them proudly — and pat yourself on the back for learning two-color knitting without ever holding two yarns at once. 🧦