purlJam

<pattern>

# NORWEGIAN OLYMPIC PULLOVER
## A Nordic Circular Yoke Sweater in Worsted Weight

**Skill Level**: Advanced Beginner (requires knowledge of knitting in the round, basic increases/decreases, and willingness to learn stranded colorwork)

---

## DESIGN NOTES

This sweater is inspired by the classic Norwegian Olympic sweaters featuring traditional Nordic colorwork in the iconic red, white, and navy blue color scheme. The circular yoke construction showcases a stunning star pattern surrounded by geometric borders, celebrating Norwegian knitting heritage.

**Construction Method**: This pullover is worked from the bottom up in the round. The body and sleeves are knitted separately to the underarms, then joined to work the circular yoke. The yoke features stranded colorwork with evenly distributed decreases creating the rounded shoulder shaping. 

**Important Note on Colorwork Gauge**: Stranded colorwork creates a denser, less stretchy fabric than plain stockinette. Your colorwork gauge MUST be swatched separately from plain knitting. The gauge given below is specifically for colorwork fabric. Managing your floats (the strands carried across the back) is critical - keep them loose enough to maintain the fabric's stretch.

---

## SIZES

**Small** (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Chest Circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"
- *Designed to be worn with 2-4" positive ease for a traditional fit. Choose a size 2-4" larger than your actual chest measurement.*

**Finished Length**: 24 (24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)" from shoulder to hem

**Yoke Depth**: 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)"

**Sleeve Length**: 18 (18, 18.5, 18.5, 19)" from underarm to cuff (adjustable)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight wool or wool blend, approximately:
- **Main Color (MC - Navy Blue)**: 800 (900, 1000, 1100, 1200) yards
- **Contrast Color 1 (CC1 - White)**: 250 (275, 300, 325, 350) yards
- **Contrast Color 2 (CC2 - Red)**: 150 (175, 200, 225, 250) yards

*Recommended yarns*: Cascade 220, Berroco Vintage Wool, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Knit Picks Wool of the Andes

**Needles**: 
- US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles: 16" and 32" (or longer for Magic Loop)
- US 8 (5 mm) circular needles: 32" (or longer for Magic Loop)
- Or sizes needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers (including 4 in contrasting colors for body and sleeve joins)
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors

---

## GAUGE

**CRITICAL**: You must swatch in the colorwork pattern, not plain stockinette!

**18 stitches × 22 rounds = 4" in stranded colorwork** on larger needles, worked in the round, after blocking

**20 stitches × 26 rounds = 4" in stockinette** on smaller needles (for ribbing reference)

### How to Swatch for Colorwork:
1. Cast on 30+ stitches on larger needles
2. Join to work in the round (colorwork looks different flat vs. round)
3. Work at least 6 rounds in MC stockinette
4. Work 20+ rounds following one of the colorwork charts
5. Work 6 rounds MC stockinette
6. Bind off loosely
7. Wash gently and block flat, pinning to shape
8. Measure gauge in center of colorwork section after fully dry

**Gauge is CRITICAL for proper fit.** Stranded colorwork creates a denser fabric. If your floats are too tight, your gauge will be too tight and the fabric will pucker. If you're not getting gauge, try:
- Too many stitches per 4"? Go up a needle size
- Too few stitches per 4"? Go down a needle size or check float tension

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**Stranded Colorwork Technique**: In stranded (Fair Isle) colorwork, you work with two colors per round, carrying the unused color loosely across the back of the work (these are called "floats"). 

**Float Management**: 
- Never carry a color more than 5-7 stitches without catching it
- Keep floats loose - they should be able to stretch as much as the knitted stitches
- When changing colors, spread out the stitches on the right needle before picking up the new color
- The two-handed method (one color in each hand) helps maintain even tension

**Dominant Color**: The color you hold in your left hand (or below, if using one hand) will appear slightly more prominent. For this pattern, hold CC1 (white) dominant when working white stitches in patterns.

**Reading Charts**: 
- Charts are read from right to left, bottom to top
- Each square represents one stitch
- Round numbers are marked on the right side
- Pattern repeats are marked with bold lines

**Stitch Markers**: Use different colored markers for the 4 join points (2 for sleeves, 2 for body sides) to easily track decreases.

**Adjusting Length**: 
- Body and sleeves can be lengthened or shortened before the underarm
- Work more or fewer rounds in MC before starting colorwork
- Keep in mind you'll need additional or less yarn

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### BODY

**With MC and smaller 32" circular needle, cast on 162 (180, 198, 216, 234) stitches.**

*Verification: 36" × 4.5 sts/inch = 162 sts ✓*

Place marker (PM) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

**Ribbing:**
Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.
Repeat Rnd 1 until ribbing measures 2.5", approximately 16 rounds.

**Change to larger circular needle.**

**Setup Rnd**: Knit all stitches, placing markers as follows:
- K81 (90, 99, 108, 117), PM for side, k81 (90, 99, 108, 117) to end of round
  
*These markers indicate the two "side seams" of the body.*

**Body:**
Knit every round (stockinette stitch) until body measures 15 (15, 15.5, 15.5, 16)" from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm.

**Divide for Yoke:**
*Next Rnd (removing side markers):*
- K5 (6, 7, 8, 9) and place these stitches on scrap yarn (right underarm)
- K71 (78, 85, 92, 99) for front
- K10 (12, 14, 16, 18) and place these stitches on scrap yarn (left underarm, including last 5/6/7/8/9 stitches from front and next 5/6/7/8/9 stitches from back)
- K71 (78, 85, 92, 99) for back to end of round

**Body stitches on hold**: 142 (156, 170, 184, 198) stitches
*Verification: 71+71=142 ✓; 78+78=156 ✓; 85+85=170 ✓*

Set body aside.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2)

**With MC and smaller 16" circular needle (or DPNs), cast on 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches.**

PM and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Ribbing:**
Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.
Repeat Rnd 1 until ribbing measures 2.5", approximately 16 rounds.

**Change to larger needles (16" circular or DPNs).**

**Sleeve Increases:**
Knit every round, working increases as follows:

*Increase Rnd:* K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1 (2 sts increased)

Work increase rnd every 8 (8, 7, 7, 6) rounds, 10 (10, 12, 13, 14) times total.

**60 (64, 72, 78, 84) stitches** after all increases.
*Verification: 40+20=60 ✓; 44+20=64 ✓; 48+24=72 ✓*

Continue even (knit every round) until sleeve measures 18 (18, 18.5, 18.5, 19)" from cast-on edge, or 1" less than desired finished sleeve length (yoke will add approximately 1" to sleeve length).

**Divide for Yoke:**
*Next Rnd:*
- K5 (6, 7, 8, 9) and place these stitches on scrap yarn
- K50 (52, 58, 62, 66)
- Place remaining 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) stitches on scrap yarn (combining with first group for underarm)

**Sleeve stitches on hold**: 50 (52, 58, 62, 66) stitches per sleeve
*Verification: 60-10=50 ✓; 64-12=52 ✓*

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### JOIN FOR YOKE

**With MC and larger 32" circular needle, join body and sleeves:**

*Join Rnd:*
- K71 (78, 85, 92, 99) across front body
- PM (use contrasting color - this marks right sleeve join)
- K50 (52, 58, 62, 66) across first sleeve
- PM (this marks left sleeve join)
- K71 (78, 85, 92, 99) across back body
- PM (this marks left body)
- K50 (52, 58, 62, 66) across second sleeve
- PM (this marks right body and end of round)

**Total yoke stitches**: 242 (260, 286, 308, 330) stitches
*Verification: 142+50+50=242 ✓; 156+52+52=260 ✓; 170+58+58=286 ✓*

---

### YOKE COLORWORK

The yoke features traditional Norwegian colorwork patterns. Work all rounds following the charts below. Maintain even tension and carry floats loosely across the back.

**Rnds 1-5**: Work Chart A (Border Pattern 1) - 11-st repeat
- For 242 sts: Work 22 full repeats ✓ (22×11=242)
- For 260 sts: Work pattern as: *work 11-st repeat 20 times, work first 8 sts of repeat once more, work first 12 sts of repeat once more* to total 260 sts
- For 286 sts: Work 26 full repeats ✓ (26×11=286)
- For 308 sts: Work 28 full repeats ✓ (28×11=308)
- For 330 sts: Work 30 full repeats ✓ (30×11=330)

**DECREASE RND 1** (after Chart A):
Rnd 6 (MC only): *K10 (11, 12, 13, 14), k2tog; repeat from * around.
**222 (240, 264, 286, 308) stitches remain**
*Verification: 242-20=222 ✓; 260-20=240 ✓*

**Rnds 7-9**: Work Chart B (Small geometric pattern) - 6-st repeat
- 222 sts: 37 repeats ✓ (37×6=222)
- 240 sts: 40 repeats ✓
- 264 sts: 44 repeats ✓
- 286 sts: Work pattern adjusting to fit (work 47 full repeats + 4 sts)
- 308 sts: Work pattern adjusting to fit (work 51 full repeats + 2 sts)

**Rnds 10-11**: MC only, knit all rounds.

**DECREASE RND 2**:
Rnd 12 (MC only): *K9 (10, 11, 12, 13), k2tog; repeat from * around.
**202 (220, 242, 264, 286) stitches remain**

**Rnds 13-24**: Work Chart C (Star Pattern) - 22-st repeat
- 202 sts: Work 9 full repeats + 4 sts extra (distribute evenly)
- 220