Type

Machine Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: - User requests "Pull femme raglan aiguille 3.5 top-down" (Women's raglan pullover, needle size 3.5mm, top-down) - CRITICAL ISSUE: User specifies hand-knitting needle size (3.5mm), but system requirements demand machine-knitting specifications - Must adapt template for MACHINE KNITTING with appropriate tension dial settings - Beginner level: simple stockinette body, basic ribbing, clear step-by-step raglan increases - Worsted weight yarn specified - Standard fit with 2-4" positive ease for women's sizing - Crew neck (classic, beginner-friendly) - 5 sizes: Small through 2XL (34-52" bust) 2. **Construction Plan**: - Top-down raglan construction ON MACHINE - Cast on at neckline using waste yarn method - Establish 4 raglan lines with markers/tracking - Increase 8 stitches every 2 rows at raglan lines (machine equivalent: fashioning marks, manual transfer increases) - Work yoke flat initially, then join for circular knitting (or work flat throughout on single bed) - **MACHINE ADAPTATION**: Top-down raglan typically worked FLAT on standard machine, then seamed, OR use circular mill - Separate sleeves at armhole depth, add underarm stitches - Work body to length with ribbed hem - Work sleeves separately with decreases to cuff - Ribbed cuffs and neckband 3. **Quality Assurance**: - MAJOR CONCERN: Template assumes hand knitting ("in the round"), but requirements specify machine knitting terminology - Must convert all instructions to machine-specific: RC checkpoints, COL/COR, tension dials, transfer tools - Raglan increases: Use manual increases (rehang/transfer method) or fashioning technique - Verify stitch counts at each checkpoint - Ensure armhole depth is adequate for all sizes - Sleeve decreases must be gradual and even - Check that underarm cast-on provides adequate ease 4. **Final Calculations**: - Machine tension for worsted: T6-7 on standard gauge (typical) - Gauge: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4" (5.5 sts/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) - Neckline: ~70-80 sts for crew neck - Raglan increases: 8 sts every 2 rows - Armhole depth target: 7-9" depending on size - Body length: 14-15" from underarm - Sleeve length: 17-18" from underarm

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: ✓ Pattern will include: Materials, Sizes, Gauge, Neckline cast-on, Raglan yoke increases, Sleeve separation, Body instructions, Sleeve instructions, Finishing ✓ Machine-specific: Setup, tension dials, RC checkpoints, COL/COR positions, tools needed 2. **Consistency**: ✓ Gauge: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4" (standard worsted on machine at T6-7) ✓ Size range: 34-52" with calculations for each ✓ Raglan math: Starting sts + (increases × rows) = yoke total ✓ Will verify all stitch counts inline 3. **Constraints**: ✓ Beginner level: Clear, step-by-step instructions ✓ Machine knitting: All terminology converted (RC, COL/COR, tension, tools) ✓ Top-down raglan: Following template structure ✓ Worsted weight: Appropriate tension settings ✓ Women's fit: Standard ease, flattering proportions 4. **Safety**: ⚠️ CRITICAL: Must clarify that seamless "in the round" construction from template needs adaptation for flat-bed machine ✓ Will work FLAT and seam, OR note circular mill option ✓ All math will be shown and verified inline ✓ RC checkpoints at every major milestone ✓ Clear carriage position tracking **PROCEED WITH PATTERN GENERATION**

Pattern

<pattern>

# PULL FEMME RAGLAN TOP-DOWN
## Machine-Knit Seamless-Style Raglan Pullover for Women

**Skill Level**: Beginner  
**Construction**: Top-down raglan, worked flat and seamed (or on circular mill)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 
- Worsted weight yarn (approximately 1000-1600 yards total depending on size)
- Sample shown in smooth wool or wool blend

**Machine & Setup**:
- Standard gauge knitting machine (Brother/Silver Reed/similar)
- Single bed or ribber attachment (ribber required for neckband, cuffs, and hem)
- Tension dial: **T6-7** for main fabric (stockinette)
- Tension dial: **T4-5** for ribbing (on ribber)

**Tools**:
- Waste yarn and ravel cord for cast-on
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Stitch markers or safety pins (for tracking raglan lines)
- Row counter
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking wires or pins
- Steam iron

---

## SIZES & MEASUREMENTS

Sizes: **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**  
Finished bust circumference: **36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"** [91 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm]  
*Designed with 2-4" positive ease*

**Key Measurements**:
- Yoke depth (neck to underarm): **7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)"**
- Body length (underarm to hem): **14 (14.5, 15, 15, 15.5)"**
- Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): **17 (17.5, 17.5, 18, 18)"**
- Upper arm circumference: **12 (13, 14, 15, 16)"**
- Cuff circumference: **7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)"**

---

## GAUGE

**Stockinette at T6-7**: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4" (10 cm)  
**5.5 stitches per inch, 7.5 rows per inch**

**CRITICAL**: Knit a swatch on your machine at T6-7. Measure after light steaming. Adjust tension dial if necessary.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**Top-Down Raglan Construction**:
This pullover begins at the neckline and is worked flat in one piece to the underarms. Raglan increases create diagonal lines from neck to armhole. After separating sleeves from body, each section is worked individually.

**Machine Technique Notes**:
- Work is knitted FLAT (back and forth) on main bed
- Use COL (Carriage On Left) and COR (Carriage On Right) position tracking
- Raglan increases done manually: bring needles into work OR use transfer tool to create increases
- RC (Row Counter) checkpoints provided throughout
- Seaming at end creates "seamless" appearance

**Raglan Increase Method**:
Every 2 rows (1 complete carriage pass left + right = 2 rows), you will increase 8 stitches total:
- 2 sts at left front raglan line
- 2 sts at left sleeve raglan line  
- 2 sts at right sleeve raglan line
- 2 sts at right front raglan line

**Stitch Marker Placement**:
Use safety pins or tie contrast yarn to mark 4 raglan positions. Move markers up as work progresses.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: NECKLINE CAST-ON & SETUP

**Machine Setup**:
1. Set tension dial to **T6-7**
2. Thread carriage with main yarn
3. Set carriage for stockinette (no part button, no slip)

**Cast-On with Waste Yarn**:
1. Using waste yarn, cast on **76 (80, 84, 88, 92) sts** using your preferred method (e-wrap or comb cast-on)
2. Knit 8-10 rows waste yarn at T7
3. Insert ravel cord
4. RC 000
5. Change to main yarn
6. COL: Knit 1 row
7. RC 001

**Math check**: 
- S: 76 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/in = 13.8" neckline ✓
- 2XL: 92 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/in = 16.7" neckline ✓

**Establish Raglan Lines**:
Working from left to right, place markers as follows:

**For Size S (76 sts)**:
- Front: 15 sts
- **MARKER 1** (left front raglan)
- Left sleeve: 11 sts
- **MARKER 2** (left sleeve raglan)
- Back: 24 sts
- **MARKER 3** (right sleeve raglan)
- Right sleeve: 11 sts
- **MARKER 4** (right front raglan)
- Front: 15 sts

**For Size M (80 sts)**: 16-12-24-12-16  
**For Size L (84 sts)**: 16-13-26-13-16  
**For Size XL (88 sts)**: 17-13-28-13-17  
**For Size 2XL (92 sts)**: 18-14-28-14-18

---

### SECTION 2: RAGLAN YOKE INCREASES

**Objective**: Increase 8 sts every 2 rows until yoke depth is achieved.

**Target yoke depth**: **7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)"** = **52 (56, 60, 64, 68) rows** [RC 52/56/60/64/68]

**Total increase rows**: 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) increase sequences  
**Stitches added**: 26×8 = 208 (28×8=224, 30×8=240, 32×8=256, 34×8=272) sts

**Final stitch count at underarm**:
- S: 76 + 208 = **284 sts**
- M: 80 + 224 = **304 sts**
- L: 84 + 240 = **324 sts**
- XL: 88 + 256 = **344 sts**
- 2XL: 92 + 272 = **364 sts**

**Increase Instructions**:

**Setup COL, RC 001**

**Rows 2-52 (56, 60, 64, 68)**: Work raglan increases as follows:

**Every 2 rows (on even-numbered rows)**:
1. **COR after knitting previous row**
2. **Manual increases at each of 4 raglan lines**:
   - At each marker position, use transfer tool to move stitch to adjacent needle, creating empty needle
   - Bring 2 empty needles per raglan line into work (1 on each side of marker)
   - Hang yarn loops or use latch tool to create new stitches
   - **OR** use e-wrap method: manually wrap new needles before knitting next row

3. **COL**: Knit across all needles (including new ones)
4. Move markers up to new positions
5. Add extra weights as work grows

**Detailed increase example at ONE raglan line**:
- Before: ...St20-St21-[MARKER]-St22-St23...
- Transfer St21 to left onto St20 (creates empty needle 21)
- Transfer St22 to right onto St23 (creates empty needle 22)
- Bring needles 19 and 24 into work (2 new needles)
- E-wrap or loop needles 19, 21, 22, 24
- After: St19-St20-St21-[MARKER]-St22-St23-St24 (4 sts became 6 sts)

**Repeat at all 4 marker positions = 8 new stitches per increase row**

**RC Checkpoints**:
- **RC 020**: Should have 156 (160, 164, 168, 172) sts [10 increase rows completed]
- **RC 040**: Should have 236 (240, 244, 248, 252) sts [20 increase rows completed]
- **RC 052 (56, 60, 64, 68)**: Final yoke count reached

**Final stitch distribution at underarm** (Size S example):
- Front: 15 + 52 = 67 sts
- Left sleeve: 11 + 52 = 63 sts
- Back: 24 + 52 = 76 sts
- Right sleeve: 11 + 52 = 63 sts
- Front: 15 + 52 = 67 sts
- **Total: 67+63+76+63+15 = 284 sts** ✓ (matches calculation)

**All Sizes Final Distribution**:
- **S**: 67F-63S-76B-63S-67F = 284 sts (note: front is split, total front = 67+67=134)
- **M**: 72F-68S-80B-68S-72F = 304 sts (total front = 144)
- **L**: 76F-73S-86B-73S-76F = 324 sts (total front = 152)
- **XL**: 81F-77S-92B-77S-81F = 344 sts (total front = 162)
- **2XL**: 86F-82S-96B-82S-86F = 364 sts (total front = 172)

---

### SECTION 3: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

**At RC 52 (56, 60, 64, 68), COR**:

**Objective**: Place sleeve stitches on hold, cast on underarm stitches, continue with body only.

**Instructions**:

1. **Remove right sleeve**:
   - Transfer right sleeve stitches **63 (68, 73, 77, 82) sts** to waste yarn using latch tool
   - Note position for later
   
2. **Cast on right underarm**:
   - Bring **6 (7, 8, 9, 10)** new needles into work where sleeve was removed
   - E-wrap cast-on for these new stitches
   
3. **Continue across back and front**

4. **Remove left sleeve**:
   - Transfer left sleeve stitches **63 (68, 73, 77, 82) sts** to waste yarn
   
5. **Cast on left underarm**:
   - Bring **6 (7, 8, 9, 10)** new needles into work
   - E-wrap cast-on

**Body stitch count after separation**:
- Front: 67 + 67 = 134 (72+72=144, 76+76=152, 81+81=162, 86+86=172)
- Back: 76 (80, 86, 92, 96)
- Underarm stitches: 6+6=12 (7+7=14, 8+8=16, 9+9=18, 10+10=20)
- **Total body stitches: 222 (238, 254, 272, 288)**

**Math verification**:
- S: 134 front + 76 back + 12 underarm = 222 sts → 222÷5.5 = 40.4" circumference ✓ (target 36" + 4" ease)
- 2XL: 172+96+20 = 288 sts → 288÷5.5 = 52.4" ✓

---

### SECTION 4: BODY

**Continue at T6-

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

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