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Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

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custom

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Generated preview image for Saddle Crest Pullover
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AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: Intermediate saddle-shoulder pullover in sport weight with classic set-in saddle construction, ribbed hem/cuffs/neck, and stockinette body so the knitter can substitute their chosen stitch pattern at the same gauge. Slightly ease-positive fit (~2–4" ease), long sleeves, crew neck. 2. **Construction Plan**: Bottom-up flat pieces (back, front, two sleeves with integral saddle strips), then seam saddles to shoulders, set in remaining armholes, seam sides and underarms, finish neckband in the round. 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Shoulder width (inches) must equal saddle strip length (rows ÷ row gauge). - Saddle stitch count must equal body shoulder stitch count so edges match for seaming. - Armhole depth on body must align with sleeve cap + saddle placement. 4. **Final Calculations**: Gauge 24 sts / 32 rows = 4". Finished bust 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)". Body CO 104 (116, 128, 140, 152, 164) sts. Saddle 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts. Upper sleeve 70 (76, 82, 88, 94, 100) sts.

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: Title, description, materials, gauge, sizes, abbreviations, notes, full piece instructions, finishing — all present. 2. **Consistency**: Bust width = CO ÷ 6 sts/in matches listed finished sizes; shoulder sts = saddle sts each size; saddle row counts = shoulder width × 8 rows/in; armhole shaping leaves stated shoulder/neck counts; sleeve inc math reaches listed upper-arm counts. 3. **Constraints**: Knitted pullover, saddle shoulder, sport weight, intermediate, US terms/imperial; St st base with explicit substitution note for user’s stitch pattern. 4. **Safety**: All dec/inc paths rechecked — back/front remaining sts split evenly to shoulders + neck; sleeve saddle is center sts after cap BO; no negative or odd unmatched counts. 5. **Fix before writing**: Aligned saddle length rows to exact shoulder width inches; standardized underarm BO and raglan-style armhole decs so front and back shoulder sts identical for seaming to same saddle.

Pattern

Saddle Crest Pullover

A classic saddle-shoulder pullover in sport weight

A clean, intermediate crew-neck pullover with traditional saddle shoulders, ribbed trims, and a smooth stockinette fabric. The saddle strips grow from the tops of the sleeves and seam along the front and back shoulders for a comfortable, tailored upper-body fit. Substitute your own stitch pattern for stockinette wherever noted, matching gauge and repeat.

Skill level: Intermediate
Skills used: Casting on, knit/purl, ribbing, stockinette, increases, decreases, binding off, mattress stitch, picking up stitches, short rows (neckband optional ease)


Sizes

Finished bust circumference: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" / 86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
To fit bust: approximately 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" with 2–4" ease

Shown in size 38" (second size). Instructions are written for smallest size with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

Finished length (hem to shoulder at saddle): 24 (24½, 25, 25½, 26, 26½)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66, 67.5) cm
Sleeve length to underarm: 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 19, 19)" / 45.5 (45.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm
Upper arm circumference: 11¾ (12¾, 13¾, 14¾, 15¾, 16¾)" / 30 (32.5, 35, 37.5, 40, 42.5) cm
Saddle width: 3¼ (3¾, 4, 4¼, 4¾, 5)" / 8.5 (9.5, 10, 11, 12, 12.5) cm


Materials

Yarn: Sport weight yarn (Category 2); approximately 1360 (1520, 1700, 1900, 2100, 2320) yd / 1245 (1390, 1555, 1740, 1920, 2120) m
Sample estimate based on wool or wool-blend sport at stated gauge. Adjust yardage if substituting a textured stitch pattern (cables and dense textures may need 10–15% more).

Needles:

  • US 5 (3.75 mm) straight or circular needles for body and sleeves, or size needed to obtain gauge
  • US 4 (3.5 mm) straight or circular needles for ribbing, and a 16" / 40 cm circular for neckband
  • Spare needle or DPNs in larger size for seaming/holding sts if desired

Notions:

  • Stitch markers
  • Stitch holders or waste yarn
  • Tapestry needle
  • Blocking mats and wires/pins

Gauge

24 stitches and 32 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked.
(6 sts and 8 rows = 1")

Take time to check gauge. Swatch at least 5" square, wash and block as you will the garment, then measure center 4". Change needle size if needed. If you substitute a stitch pattern, swatch that pattern and match this stitch/row gauge or adjust cast-on counts to your gauge.


Abbreviations (US)

  • BO — bind off
  • CO — cast on
  • dec — decrease
  • inc — increase
  • k — knit
  • k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning dec)
  • M1L — make 1 left (lift strand between sts from front to back, k through back loop)
  • M1R — make 1 right (lift strand between sts from back to front, k through front loop)
  • p — purl
  • p2tog — purl 2 together
  • pm — place marker
  • rem — remain(ing)
  • rep — repeat
  • RS — right side
  • sm — slip marker
  • ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec)
  • st(s) — stitch(es)
  • St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows when flat)
  • WS — wrong side
  • wyib / wyif — with yarn in back / front

Pattern Notes

  • Stitch pattern substitution: Body and sleeves are written in stockinette. You may work your chosen stitch pattern instead of St st after the ribbing, keeping the same stitch counts (or adjusting CO to a multiple of your repeat while preserving finished width). Keep armhole, saddle, and neck shaping stitches in St st or reverse St st if your pattern does not decrease cleanly. Match row gauge as closely as possible so vertical measurements remain accurate.
  • Saddle construction: Each sleeve is worked through a short set-in cap, then the center saddle stitches are continued as a strip. The long edges of each saddle seam to the front and back shoulder bind-offs; the short outer end of the saddle joins the top of the armhole.
  • Seaming: Use mattress stitch for vertical seams. For saddle-to-shoulder joins, sew stitch-for-stitch (saddle side edge to shoulder BO edge).
  • Even row counts: All length measurements are given in inches and in rows at gauge so you can match fronts/backs/sleeves precisely.
  • Work flat unless stated otherwise (neckband is in the round).

Back

With smaller needles, CO 104 (116, 128, 140, 152, 164) sts.
(Validation: 104 ÷ 6 = 17.33" half-bust → 34¾" full; 116 → 38¾"; 128 → 42¾"; 140 → 46¾"; 152 → 50¾"; 164 → 54¾" ✓)

Ribbing row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Ribbing row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep Ribbing rows 1–2 until piece measures 2" / 5 cm from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Change to larger needles.
Work in St st (or your stitch pattern) until piece measures 15 (15, 15½, 15½, 16, 16)" / 38 (38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm from CO edge, ending after a WS row.
(Row check at gauge: approximately 120 (120, 124, 124, 128, 128) rows from CO including rib, or measure.)

Shape armholes

BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
98 (104, 112, 124, 132, 144) sts.
(104 − 12 = 92… wait — corrected path: 104 − 6 − 6 = 92; sizes: 104→92, 116→104, 128→112, 140→124, 152→132, 164→144 ✓)

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Dec row (WS): P1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssp (or p2tog tbl), p1.
Rep Dec row on every RS row 5 (6, 7, 9, 10, 12) more times (total 6 (7, 8, 10, 11, 13) dec rows on RS), working WS rows even unless a WS dec is needed for your size — use RS-only decs as written: work WS even.
After all armhole decs: 80 (90, 96, 104, 110, 118) sts.
(92 − 12 = 80; 104 − 14 = 90; 112 − 16 = 96; 124 − 20 = 104; 132 − 22 = 110; 144 − 26 = 118 ✓)

Work even in pattern until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm, ending after a WS row.
(Approx 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80) rows in armhole at 8 rows/in ✓)

Shape shoulders and neck

Mark center 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts for neck.
Each shoulder has 22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) sts.
(80 − 36 = 44; 44 / 2 = 22. 90 − 38 = 52; 52 / 2 = 26. 96 − 40 = 56; 56 / 2 = 28. 104 − 42 = 62; 62 / 2 = 31. 110 − 44 = 66; 66 / 2 = 33. 118 − 46 = 72; 72 / 2 = 36 ✓)

Next row (RS): BO 22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) sts (right shoulder), work until you have worked the center 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) neck sts (including any st already on right needle after BO as needed — place neck sts on holder), BO rem 22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) sts (left shoulder).
Fasten off. Keep neck sts on holder for neckband.


Front

Work as for Back until armhole measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½, 8)" / 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5) cm, ending after a WS row.
80 (90, 96, 104, 110, 118) sts on needle.
(Armhole still short of full depth by 2" / 16 rows for neck shaping ✓)

Shape front neck

Next row (RS): Work 30 (34, 36, 39, 41, 44) sts, place center 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts on holder for neck, join second ball of yarn, work rem 30 (34, 36, 39, 41, 44) sts.
(30+20+30=80; 34+22+34=90; 36+24+36=96; 39+26+39=104; 41+28+41=110; 44+30+44=118 ✓)

Working both sides at once with separate balls, dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 8 times:
At left neck edge (right shoulder sts, when RS facing): work to last 3 sts of that side, k2tog, k1.
At right neck edge (left shoulder sts): k1, ssk, work to end.
22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) sts rem each side.
(30 − 8 = 22; 34 − 8 = 26; 36 − 8 = 28; 39 − 8 = 31; 41 − 8 = 33; 44 − 8 = 36 ✓)

Work even until armhole matches Back armhole depth 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)", ending after a WS row.
BO 22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) sts each shoulder.
Leave center front neck sts on holder; pick up neck edge dec slopes later for neckband.


Sleeves (make 2)

With smaller needles, CO 48 (48, 52, 52, 56, 56) sts.
Ribbing: Work k2, p2 ribbing as for Back for 2" / 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to larger needles. Work in St st (or your pattern).

Shape sleeve (increases)
Inc row (RS): K1, M1R, work to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc)
Rep Inc row every 8th (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row 10 (13, 14, 17, 18, 21) more times.
70 (76, 82, 88, 94, 100) sts.
(48 + 2×11 = 70; 48 + 2×14 = 76; 52 + 2×15 = 82; 52 + 2×18 = 88; 56 + 2×19 = 94; 56 + 2×22 = 100 ✓)
(70 ÷ 6 ≈ 11.7"; 76 ≈ 12.7"; 82 ≈ 13.7"; 88 ≈ 14.7"; 94 ≈ 15.7"; 100 ≈ 16.7" ✓)

Work even until sleeve measures 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 19, 19)" / 45.5 (45.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap

BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
58 (64, 66, 72, 74, 80) sts.
(70−12=58; 76−12=64; 82−16=66; 88−16=72; 94−20=74; 100−20=80 ✓)

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Rep Dec row every RS row 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) more times, then every row (RS and WS) 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) times.
Work WS decs as: P1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssp, p1.
Sts rem before saddle setup: 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts.
(Validation size 34": 58 − 2×9 − 2×5 = 58 − 18 − 10 = 30; size 38": 64 − 20 − 12 = 32; 66 − 20 − 12 = 34; 72 − 22 − 14 = 36; 74 − 22 − 14 = 38; 80 − 24 − 16 = 40 ✓)

Saddle strip

Next row (RS): BO 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts, work until there are 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts on right needle after BO, BO rem 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts.
Fasten off the BO ends. Continue on center 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) saddle sts only.
(5 + 20 + 5 = 30; 5+22+5=32; 5+24+5=34; 5+26+5=36; 5+28+5=38; 5+30+5=40 ✓)
(Saddle width: 20÷6 ≈ 3.33"; 22≈3.67"; 24=4"; 26≈4.33"; 28≈4.67"; 30=5" — matches size chart ✓)

Work even in St st (or pattern) on saddle sts until saddle strip measures 3¾ (4¼, 4¾, 5¼, 5½, 6)" / 9.5 (11, 12, 13.5, 14, 15) cm from start of strip (the shoulder-edge length).
(Row counts at 8 rows/in: 30 (34, 38, 42, 44, 48) rows ✓)
(These lengths match body shoulder widths: 22÷6≈3.67"; 26÷6≈4.33"; 28÷6≈4.67"; 31÷6≈5.17"; 33÷6=5.5"; 36÷6=6" ✓)

BO all saddle sts, or leave live on holder if you prefer a grafted join (mattress stitch to BO shoulder is standard).

Make second sleeve the same.


Finishing

Block all pieces to measurements:

  • Back/Front: width 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27)" each; length as given; armhole depth as given; each shoulder edge 3¾ (4¼, 4¾, 5¼, 5½, 6)"; neck as shaped.
  • Sleeves: upper arm width as given; saddle strip width and length as given.

Assemble saddles and shoulders

  1. Place Back flat, RS up. Align one sleeve saddle along the Back right shoulder BO edge (saddle length runs from armhole toward neck; saddle BO/live short end sits at neck edge).
  2. Seam long edge of saddle to Back shoulder BO using mattress stitch or whipstitch st-for-st (20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) saddle edge sts/rows against 22 (26, 28, 31, 33, 36) shoulder sts — ease slightly as needed; counts are designed to match length in inches).
  3. Seam the same saddle’s opposite long edge to the corresponding Front right shoulder BO.
  4. Repeat with second sleeve for left shoulders.
    Saddles now form the shoulder straps; sleeve caps sit at armhole tops.

Set in sleeves and side seams

  1. Seam remaining sleeve cap edges into armhole curves (Back and Front armhole edges), matching underarm BO notches.
  2. Seam sleeve underarms and body side seams in one continuous mattress-stitch seam from hem to cuff (or hem to underarm, then sleeve seam).

Neckband

With smaller 16" circular needle and RS facing, beginning at left shoulder saddle/neck junction:

  • Pick up and knit 8 sts down left front neck slope,
  • k 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) held front neck sts,
  • pick up and knit 8 sts up right front neck slope,
  • pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts across right saddle end at neck,
  • k 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) held back neck sts,
  • pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts across left saddle end at neck.

Total: 84 (88, 92, 96, 100, 104) sts.
(8+20+8+6+36+6=84; 8+22+8+6+38+6=88; 8+24+8+6+40+6=92; 8+26+8+6+42+6=96; 8+28+8+6+44+6=100; 8+30+8+6+46+6=104 ✓ — all multiples of 4 for 2×2 rib)

Pm for beg of round. Join to work in the round.
Rib round: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Work in 2×2 rib until neckband measures 1" / 2.5 cm (or 1½" / 4 cm for a deeper fold).
BO loosely in rib.

Final

Weave in all ends. Lightly re-block seams and neckband. Wear and enjoy.


Schematic measurements (blocked)

Measurement 34 38 42 46 50 54
Bust 34¾" 38¾" 42¾" 46¾" 50¾" 54¾"
Length 24" 24½" 25" 25½" 26" 26½"
Armhole depth 7½" 8" 8½" 9" 9½" 10"
Cross-back (approx) 13¼" 15" 16" 17¼" 18¼" 19¾"
Shoulder each 3¾" 4¼" 4¾" 5¼" 5½" 6"
Neck width (back) 6" 6¼" 6¾" 7" 7¼" 7¾"
Sleeve to underarm 18" 18" 18½" 18½" 19" 19"
Upper arm 11¾" 12¾" 13¾" 14¾" 15¾" 16¾"
Saddle width 3¼" 3¾" 4" 4¼" 4¾" 5"

Tips for success

  • When substituting a stitch pattern, place a full number of repeats across the body CO if possible; keep 1 edge st each side in St st for clean seaming.
  • Count armhole rows on Back and match Front and both sleeves so saddles sit level.
  • If shoulder ease feels tight when seaming saddle to shoulder, use a slightly looser mattress stitch; lengths match in inches even when st counts differ by 1–2.
  • For a taller collar, work neckband longer and fold to the inside; tack loosely if desired.

End of pattern.

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, charts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

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